Builds 2015 Base Build (5 Viewers)

[Hiluxforever]

Skids have been tested.

 

[OllieChristopher]

Really looks nice. What kind of gear ratio upgrade did you or are you going to end up with? I'm guessing at least a 4.10 or 4.56. I would go 4.56 to make up for the added weight of wheel/tire package and lift.

 

[Hiluxforever]

Really looks nice. What kind of gear ratio upgrade did you or are you going to end up with? I'm guessing at least a 4.10 or 4.56. I would go 4.56 to make up for the added weight of wheel/tire package and lift.

Thank you!


I am not sure. That I am aware of, the only aftermarket ratios available are 4.56 and 4.88. I am concerned about 4.56 being too low for a daily. If it wasn't a daily, and I didn't have to drive hundreds of miles for decent trails, I would definitely do 4.88s and just be done with it.

As it stands, getting bumpers, winch and rails are the next big priorities, then that will determine what springs I need.

 

[OllieChristopher]

Thank you!


I am not sure. That I am aware of, the only aftermarket ratios available are 4.56 and 4.88. I am concerned about 4.56 being too low for a daily. If it wasn't a daily, and I didn't have to drive hundreds of miles for decent trails, I would definitely do 4.88s and just be done with it.

As it stands, getting bumpers, winch and rails are the next big priorities, then that will determine what springs I need.

Doing the math 4.56 won't be bad at all for a daily driver. With the 3.90 stock and 2.5" taller tires it calls for a 4.20 ratio. as it is. Add in all that extra weight you are adding and the 4.56 is very attractive.

It will be an interesting build for sure. Best of luck to you. The tires are really sick. Those are serious rock crawling rubber.

 

[Hiluxforever]

Doing the math 4.56 won't be bad at all for a daily driver. With the 3.90 stock and 2.5" taller tires it calls for a 4.20 ratio. as it is. Add in all that extra weight you are adding and the 4.56 is very attractive.

It will be an interesting build for sure. Best of luck to you. The tires are really sick. Those are serious rock crawling rubber.

Thanks! I ran stock gears on my 83 with 33s. I didn't die.

Seriously, though, long term it needs to be fully locked and gears will be done at that time.

 

[cgs2k2]

i'm on 33s with some extra weight and with the stock ratios i find it totally acceptable. no issues merging or passing on the highway, still peppy enough on the city streets, etc... i think you can get away with the stock ratios and your current set up

now, if you plan on lockers, might as well through some new gears in

 

[Hiluxforever]

i'm on 33s with some extra weight and with the stock ratios i find it totally acceptable. no issues merging or passing on the highway, still peppy enough on the city streets, etc... i think you can get away with the stock ratios and your current set up

now, if you plan on lockers, might as well through some new gears in

Exactly. Anyone who lived with a 22R for any length of time wouldn't be bothered by it.

 

[OllieChristopher]

i'm on 33s with some extra weight and with the stock ratios i find it totally acceptable. no issues merging or passing on the highway, still peppy enough on the city streets, etc... i think you can get away with the stock ratios and your current set up

now, if you plan on lockers, might as well through some new gears in

Exactly. Anyone who lived with a 22R for any length of time wouldn't be bothered by it.

Very subjective from driver to driver. The fact cannot be denied that the driving characteristic changes considerably when going to heavier rotating mass alone. Add in different shift points, sluggish acceleration, fuel economy, unnecessary wear and tear, deteriorated handling on pavement and both static and dynamic roll over angles are decreased.

All these factors have to be carefully weighed when making these kinds of modifications. Personally it would bother the heck out of me to not match gearing to a substantial increase in diameter. That's just me though. I have never been one to make a modification just "for the look". It's all about function and balance when having a vehicle that is used on pavement most of the time.

33" is a huge tire underneath the GX. The negative effects outweigh the positives for a daily driver. As long as you are aware of this and it does not bother you then it's all good.

 

[cgs2k2]

Very subjective from driver to driver. The fact cannot be denied that the driving characteristic changes considerably when going to heavier rotating mass alone. Add in different shift points, sluggish acceleration, fuel economy, unnecessary wear and tear, deteriorated handling on pavement and both static and dynamic roll over angles are decreased.

All these factors have to be carefully weighed when making these kinds of modifications. Personally it would bother the heck out of me to not match gearing to a substantial increase in diameter. That's just me though. I have never been one to make a modification just "for the look". It's all about function and balance when having a vehicle that is used on pavement most of the time.

33" is a huge tire underneath the GX. The negative effects outweigh the positives for a daily driver. As long as you are aware of this and it does not bother you then it's all good.

the driving experience has barely changed, to be honest with you. that may be subjective, and maybe i'm just used to driving trucks with big tires - but this thing still drives great, feels about the same, etc. it is a big, slow rig geared to be smooth and not "peppy" from the factory. making it slightly slower has no major impact on the driving characteristics IMO

where the gears would be helpful would be for crawling and offroad. on road - no need until you're getting up into 34-35" tire range IMO, and even then I feel like you could get away with it

i'd actually say the biggest difference is just the fact that these E range tires and my aftermarket suspension are pretty stiff. the ride is a bit more jarring - but in terms of acceleration, no big difference

 

[Hiluxforever]

the driving experience has barely changed, to be honest with you. that may be subjective, and maybe i'm just used to driving trucks with big tires - but this thing still drives great, feels about the same, etc. it is a big, slow rig geared to be smooth and not "peppy" from the factory. making it slightly slower has no major impact on the driving characteristics IMO

where the gears would be helpful would be for crawling and offroad. on road - no need until you're getting up into 34-35" tire range IMO, and even then I feel like you could get away with it

i'd actually say the biggest difference is just the fact that these E range tires and my aftermarket suspension are pretty stiff. the ride is a bit more jarring - but in terms of acceleration, no big difference

I can confirm this with my tires as well. The only noticeably difference Is feeling the transmission down shift and if there are serious crosswinds the fuel economy tanks. That and some NVH.

Even at 8K feet it still feels good and drives pretty much the same. But as previously stated, a serious portion of my time behind the wheel has been spent with 2.4 Liter Toyota 4 banger pickups. If you have ever driven a 20R / 22R/RE / 2RZ/3RZ it would change your perspective. It's also a lot like if you were a service tech and driving you can fill vs empty.

 

[re_guderian]

For 33's, just throw a Pedal Commander on it to gain back some acceleration "pep". Seriously, if you drove a 2F-powered anything, even stock, a heavily modified GX is a rocket-ship... My FJ-60 was known as my "anti-road-rage" car, because it couldn't get out of it's own way. Wanted to cut me off? Be my guest...

 

[Hiluxforever]

For 33's, just throw a Pedal Commander on it to gain back some acceleration "pep". Seriously, if you drove a 2F-powered anything, even stock, a heavily modified GX is a rocket-ship... My FJ-60 was known as my "anti-road-rage" car, because it couldn't get out of it's own way. Wanted to cut me off? Be my guest...

Can confirm. I test drove a tired FJ60 back in the day and I would have to add a few tons before the GX would be THAT unresponsive for both acceleration and braking. My 83 4wd only ever got up to 80 going down an 8% grade.


I am not running class 7 with it.


I think the cost of regearing has to be considered. When I first got into yota's a quality ring and pinion was a few hundred, total parts for regearing we're maybe 600-700$. So it was a much less expensive affair than it is now. I generally work from less expensive to more expensive focusing on what I absolutely need vs want.


All of this is extremely subjective. Everyone has different priorities, and that's ok. It would be quite boring if we all wanted the same thing. I would never get to make fun of Murano convertibles.

If I could drive any yota it would be a 70 series, and if it's within my means when I have it paid off, that's when the real build will begin. Either a SAS or Marlin Crawler Long Travel. I want to be able to run at least 35s, with full suspension travel, fully locked. Maybe a lower transfer case gear or something like that, or an atlas.

So, with all of that in the long term future, everything I do is designed around accommodating that as well. So I wouldn't want to regear to 4.56 only to regear to 4.88 in another 4 years

 

[Hiluxforever]

There is this black deflecter piece above the skid plate that acts as an air deflector and radiator saver. I just put it back on, but that's going to be in my list next and potentially ARB tow points, as I am thinking I may travel to Denver to have Slee do an ARB bumper.

 

[Hiluxforever]

Currently agonizing over what to do for winter tires, since I really don't want to run those Geolander H/Ts again.

Consider Blizzak LTs, G013 Geolander, and Duratracs. I would probably use the stock wheels and get 265/70 or 275/70, depending on how much I want to push my luck.

I may be doing SPC UCAs with the Bilsteins, and that may happen sooner, rather than later. The trails in Colorado really showed the shortcomings of the stock dampers.

 

[r2m]

BFG AT's have a good rating in snow and wet and they wear forever!
My personal favorite, but then again, I live in So. Ca.
Rain? what rain???

 

[Hiluxforever]

BFG AT's have a good rating in snow and wet and they wear forever!
My personal favorite, but then again, I live in So. Ca.
Rain? what rain???

They do alright, and they come in almost every size, but not every size is triple snowflake rated. You also don't see them on plow trucks.

I get a lot of hard pack snow and ice, and really the only reason I am second guessing the Blizzak LTs is I am concerned about how well they would do on a trail in the late fall through early spring.

The other tire I forgot about, to add would be the Firestone Destination XT. Less expensive Dueler Revo alternative, has a light carcass as well, like the Dueler and Blizzak.


To further add to this, the first 17 years that I drove, I drove 5 lug Toyota pickups, I had an 85 Standard Cab 4 speed and 2 98 Tacomas, a standard cab and an extended cab. I never ran snow tires, and turning into the skid is permanently burned in. I am in my forties now, and can afford the better tires so I just want it to work, and keep things stress free unless I choose to make them exciting.


The last car I had was a little hatchback with Blizzaks in the winter. That thing went anywhere and everywhere in winter. Des Moines snow removal is a joke. The only time my street was cleared was due to a triple homicide. It was perpetual rutted out ice.

 

[r2m]

They do alright, and they come in almost every size, but not every size is triple snowflake rated. You also don't see them on plow trucks.

I get a lot of hard pack snow and ice, and really the only reason I am second guessing the Blizzak LTs is I am concerned about how well they would do on a trail in the late fall through early spring.

The other tire I forgot about, to add would be the Firestone Destination XT. Less expensive Dueler Revo alternative, has a light carcass as well, like the Dueler and Blizzak.


To further add to this, the first 17 years that I drove, I drove 5 lug Toyota pickups, I had an 85 Standard Cab 4 speed and 2 98 Tacomas, a standard cab and an extended cab. I never ran snow tires, and turning into the skid is permanently burned in. I am in my forties now, and can afford the better tires so I just want it to work, and keep things stress free unless I choose to make them exciting.


The last car I had was a little hatchback with Blizzaks in the winter. That thing went anywhere and everywhere in winter. Des Moines snow removal is a joke. The only time my street was cleared was due to a triple homicide. It was perpetual rutted out ice.

With all the driving electronic aids, that counter steering pucker factor is almost a thing of the past!

 

[Hiluxforever]

With all the driving electronic aids, that counter steering pucker factor is almost a thing of the past!

It is except with the bad storms. Those can still be a bit interesting. In some ways I prefer no aids in a blizzard since once you realize it's gone pear shaped, it's too late to recover.

 

[cgs2k2]

Duratracs are GREAT winter tires. I live in north east ohio - we get a s*** LOAD of snow. I have run several sets of Duratracs, they are excellent in bad weather.

 

[Banandalorian]

It is except with the bad storms. Those can still be a bit interesting. In some ways I prefer no aids in a blizzard since once you realize it's gone pear shaped, it's too late to recover.

Always fun to play "who can actually drive in the snow vs who's TCS is constantly bailing them out".

I will say that the GX is unsurprisingly the easiest and most capable vehicle I have ever driven in the snow. I see how people with AWD/4WDs get themselves into trouble by forgetting that driving usually requires turning and stopping in addition to forward motion.