2013 dies repeatedly while driving down the road

[CharlieS]

Anything is possible.

The problem I'm struggling with if it's related to the immobilizer, is that proper function wouldn't have the engine shut down in the manner that's been occurring. Stalling without indication is an outright safety hazard and an OEM wouldn't design a system to do this even when dealing with a fault. Imagine someone starting up and pulling out of a driveway onto a busy street. We also know when taking a key away from a running engine, that the engine never stops for the duration of the trip. It only won't start once turned off. As the immobilizer also has status indication lights, it hasn't displayed anything right?

Agreed. Downright dangerous.

Nope, no status indications/errors from the immobilizer (and no CEL, no helpful DTC other than the stalling/rough running ones posted previously).

 

[CharlieS]

I like this theory => many years into the ownership of our 88 FJ62, it began to randomly die while driving down the road. Repeated trips to our import mechanic, usually with no symptoms. He kept it & used it as his DD, with no resolution. Eventually, he did find a relay which would "wobble" in its socket. I don't recall whether he replaced that relay/socket, or just spread the relay's pins. No further gremlin.

@CharlieS, you didn't mention using anything on electrical contacts when reassembling, I've used CRC Electrical Silicone Liquid Lubricant in such cases. It does help in future disassembly.

I've read lots of stories from earlier generations with EFI fuses and relays, fuse boxes, and loose pins in the sockets. It's definitely a good train of exploration, but so far, I haven't come across anything like that.

I haven't used any electrical contact spray. I'll pick up some and use it going forward.

Wouldn't it be interesting if this was an issue where I had resistance building from corrosion on pins that was mechanically improved through removal and reinsertion of the component, of for example the FCP ECU pin where it gets a duty cycle signal from the ECM...

I have a FPC ECU on the way, so I am going to replace it. Mine is very rusty on the exterior. I'll clean the contacts (deoxit) and use that CRC spray on reassembly. I will probably do the same with the ECU connectors and fuses/relays since they are so easily accessible.

 

[Romer]

You have done a good job documenting what you did. What I would do is back up and remove one component at a time that you touched to see if you can recreate the problem. Put one back in and try the next

 

[CharlieS]

You have done a good job documenting what you did. What I would do is back up and remove one component at a time that you touched to see if you can recreate the problem. Put one back in and try the next

Great idea. We think alike!

I actually did this yesterday. And much to my chagrin, no change in behavior.

 

[bloc]

I’ve never liked electrical grease on connector pins due to tendency to attract dirt and make future work messy and more difficult. If the stuff was truly necessary toyota would be using it from the factory. Millions (billions?) of individual toyota connectors are working just fine without it.. with the rare EFI or headlight fuse connector pin causing problems.

The one exception (for me) is when there are known issues with a given connector.. MAF connector on A4 TDI VWs, for instance. 80-series headlight fuses are another.

 

[ceb]

Great idea. We think alike!

I actually did this yesterday. And much to my chagrin, no change in behavior.

That's good news/bad news. Let's hope that it was just a bad connection somewhere

 

[Sandroad]

Assuming for a moment that the security fob has some sort of rolling code that it uses as it's (encryption) key, much like a garge door opener, I wonder if something happened along the way where the immobilizer was trying to roll the code after the engine started but the fob wasn't responding to that code. By using a different key the system was able to "reset" the sequence.

Agreed, and similar to the concept I posted earlier about a "reset" in a Honda.

 

[4xoddic]

I’ve never liked electrical grease on connector pins due to tendency to attract dirt and make future work messy and more difficult.

Same here.

The CRC Electrical Silicone Liquid Lubricant (I don't recall silicone in the title, back when) didn't leave a greasy residue. I sprayed it on the mating surfaces of plastic electrical connectors, not purposely on pins. I used CRC quick drying electrical cleaner on pins/contacts, & then apply the lubricant to the plastic surface of one connector (male) where it slides into a socket (female). IMHO, these CRC products are superior to WD40 (which leaves behind dirt attractants, as I recall); my FIL (full service filling station owner) was a firm believer in what he called CRC "cat piss."

 

[CharlieS]

Just reporting back. Everything is running normally.

I got the OBD Elm reader and OBD Fusion with the Toyota add on for my year. Everything looks fine as far as I can tell. I still haven't found a good way to connect my fuel pressure guage without buying a new OEM hose. My new fuel pump controller ecu will arrive on Saturday, and I will swap it out (although it looks like it was unnecessary).

I'll report back if anything crops up again.

Thank you to everyone that weighed in, gave advice, support, tech docs, etc. I am very appreciative.

 

[terdrocket]

I say, to add to the magical 25 year service life that is always quoted for a 200 series, that it is now declared that a 200 is also a self healing vehicle.

BTW, I am glad that you are back up and running.

 

[CharlieS]

For whatever it is worth (not much), my cruiser continues to run flawlessly. I swapped out the FPC ECU since I had special ordered one, and the old one had a very corroded case. I cleaned the contacts with Deoxit, because why not? I've driven a lot and not a single hiccup... Self healing 200, I guess. Cool feature. (I hate it when I don't find the root cause). Happy to have my rig back though!

 

[highrisk]

I was ready to replace the fuel pump ECU around page six.

I’m glad the truck is running well for you. I’m in a 2013 too so I had to keep reading.

For whatever it is worth (not much), my cruiser continues to run flawlessly. I swapped out the FPC ECU since I had special ordered one, and the old one had a very corroded case. I cleaned the contacts with Deoxit, because why not? I've driven a lot and not a single hiccup... Self healing 200, I guess. Cool feature. (I hate it when I don't find the root cause). Happy to have my rig back though!

 

[steve berman]

This sounded like bad gas at first.. I know you topped it off in the beginning but it can take time to run its course. Happened to me once in a different car, and I was able to get the EPA to test the fuel quality at the station.

My second thought, was some type of recovery electronics? I know they put these on some vehicles to repossess them. I doubt you are in that situation but have heard stories where cars are cut off so it crossed my mind.

I love problems like this, but I don't know enough about the LC ignition and fuel system yet to offer any advice from inside the box.


Edit: Just read the tundra thread on the fuel pump, that seems to hint in the right area. And hey.. bad gas could exacerbate a fuel delivery issue.

Good luck keeping her going, keep us posted

 

[molanginaeda]

@CharlieS Did you end up swapping out the FPC ECU? My 2013 start to act up since yesterday. Don't have the same symptom like you. It's stall in the first 1-2 sec. Now, it's just cranking.

 

[CharlieS]

Yes, I put in a new fuel pump ECU.

I haven't had any issues with it since that one weekend. Fingers crossed that it is gone.

 

[JGSoonerfan]

I am going to bump this post, this just happened to me. It appears the seal is not impervious to water as one would think it would be.
I am glad to have donated $1000 to Toyota for this service, I was out of the country and at their mercy to diagnose while I was gone.
2013 w/110k.