Builds 2010 LX 570 -AHC Delete, Tundra Swap, 4.5" BDS Lift (2 Viewers)

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do you need to drop the rear bump stops at all with that lift?
 
Ah ha! That is some good info! I will definitely look into that as a potential cause and fix. Thanks!

Forgot that this only applies if you're using a donor Tundra front diff housing. If you reused your 200-series clamshell, it uses an oil film bearing so it shouldn't be an issue.
 
Forgot that this only applies if you're using a donor Tundra front diff housing. If you reused your 200-series clamshell, it uses an oil film bearing so it shouldn't be an issue.
Ya, I realized that after reading the thread a bit. I do appreciate suggestion though.
 
Sorry, missed your question here earlier. I just used the Fox shocks that came with the BDS kit, but it's just temporary. Although intended for a Tundra they fit the bill in terms of length and travel for 4.5-5 inches of lift, and once I have a chance to drive on them a bit with the drawers loaded up and the steel bumper installed I'll have a better understanding of what type of shocks I will need long term. Ideally I'll end up with some remote reservoir shocks to compliment the Fox coilovers up front.

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BTW, I went with your suggestion of dropping the tire pressure to get the truck in and out of the garage...works great at 6 PSI.

I am surprised to see lower mount hole work from tundra on a cruiser. My understanding was the rear lower shock ID on tundra and cruiser is not same size.

2013 Lc200 rear shock mount ID measured on shock is 3/4”.

2007 Tundra rear shock mount ID measured on shock is 1/2”
 
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I am surprised to see lower mount hole work from tundra on a cruiser. My understanding was the rear lower shock ID on tundra and cruiser is not same size.

2013 Lc200 rear shock mount ID measured on shock is 3/4”.

2007 Tundra rear shock mount ID measured on shock is 1/2”

The Fox 2.0 shocks come with a metal bushing sleeve that is required for 1/2" diameter shock mounts...but the bushing itself is 3/4" and fits the LC mounts perfectly. So I just skipped the sleeve 👍
 

I ran across this. I thought you might be interested. It will solve the fuel tank interference.
Awesome, yeah I saw those and thought hard about buying some. In the end I don't think they provide enough of a fix for the amount of lift I have. I ended up buying the adjustable upper arms from Ironman. They have 70mm diameter bushings instead of the 50mm that come on the stock arms, so I'm having to make some adjustments to my design for those relocation brackets. My goal is to finalize the designs for the upper arm and panhard correction brackets this week and then a final 3D print test this weekend so I can send the designs out for cutting next week. I'm leaning towards using OSH Cut, who I just found out is located here in Utah. I've been using their online app to check the "bendability" of my parts along with a cost estimates, and I like that I can just go pick up my parts rather than paying for shipping.
 
Btw I switched to OME 2423 spring and got desired lift. I had to raise the lower shock mounts by approximately 2”. I also modified rear bump stops to address rubbing.

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How much did you have to reduce rear travel? Maybe a pic of the bumpstop when you get a chance 🤓
 
How much did you have to reduce rear travel? Maybe a pic of the bumpstop when you get a chance 🤓

I limited up travel by 2” it is same amount I raised lower shock mount. Picture I posted above is before the mods were done. I was trying to see limitations I need to put in place to reduce rubbing.

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Sweet! What do you think of the ride with the 2423s compared to your previous springs?

Ride seems to be good for the weight I have in the back. I will miss the progressive springs but I got rid of the squat.
 
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I limited up travel by 2” it is same amount I raised lower shock mount. Picture I posted above is before the mods were done. I was trying to see limitations I need to put in place to reduce rubbing.

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I look forward to seeing it flex with the extra 2" on the end. I like the idea. I hadn't thought about it myself, but if I need to reduce my up travel in the back I may do the same thing with my AHC still in place :meh: I wonder if AHC would know anything is different. Do you think you will cut off the old lower portion if this works well? How much more work before you can go play?
 
What was the rear rubbing on that caused you to reduce up travel?
The inner fender was in contact with the tire. I am running zero offset wheels so wanted to extend the bump stops to reduce the contact. Full stuff still has few inches of up-travel left to the axle before I extended the bump stop. I have not tested it after extending bump stops.
 
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Thank you so much for the thread! So helpful especially for a newbie, speaking of which, I'm a huge newbie here and potentially new LX570 owner.

I was wondering how did your rig handle the snow without AHC? The LX I'm looking to purchase deleted AHC in lieu for factory LC suspension. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!
 
Thank you so much for the thread! So helpful especially for a newbie, speaking of which, I'm a huge newbie here and potentially new LX570 owner.

I was wondering how did your rig handle the snow without AHC? The LX I'm looking to purchase deleted AHC in lieu for factory LC suspension. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!
My LX was in the garage and under construction all winter, so I didn't get the chance to drive it in snow since I started the project. That being said, AHC or lack of AHC won't have any effect on how the vehicle handles in snow. AHC simply controls the compression, dampening and height of the suspension...i.e. comfort, cornering and clearance rather than traction.
 

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