200k Maintenance - Dealer Hosing Me?

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Joined
Apr 6, 2019
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1
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Location
Washington
2001 100 series - brought the cruiser in because my rear quarter window spontaneously shattered...

Had them do an inspection while it was in there... Need advice on reasonability here... I don't know what's really necessary to complete aside from brakes.

Original Estimate: $529.90


$465 Coolant leak- coolant leaking back of the motor puking. Coolant almost empty-coolant passage pipe

$717.95 front pads and re-packing both front wheel bearings.

$1210.21 both rear pads/both rear calipers(both calipers leaking)/both rear brake shims/and both rear rotors.

$2277 for the power steering rack and pinion. Rack is leaking. Prices includes alignment .

$155 for brake fluid flush (brake work)

$5355.06 plus tax.


Can I take this to an outside mech? I'm in Seattle WA
 
Yes, of course you can take it to an outside mechanic. From your list, the coolant is likely the heater hose t's, several excellent threads here on replacing them, very easy to do yourself (careful that the old brittle plastic doesn't break off and fall into the hose). T's are about $20. If you're able to wrench, you can tackle the brakes too. The steering is more complicated for sure.

All the other prices are dealer rack rate, so of course it's high. It's also all things that they're recommending because it's their job. Think of the flip side of you have them replace the window and a week from now find out the brakes need to be done. "I was just here a week ago and you didn't say anything about the brakes then!"
 
Your profile says Washington but not where exactly. Torfab is in Everett Washington and would give you a more honest appraisal of which way is up on your rig. I wouldn't take a vehicle to a dealer for anything other than warranty work.

Especially not an 18 year old landcruiser. You need an honest independent mechanic if you can find one in your local area.
 
Do people really pay that much for brakes? I've always done mine myself, but its very easy. This sounds like a great opportunity to learn how to do all of these maintenance tasks. Its a long run money saver for sure.
 
Welcome to the site!

Spontaneous shattering eh? Well, better than spontaneous combustion for sure... :hmm:
Is there more to replacing the window than a few bolts? If not, you can probably order it someplace much cheaper than the dealer estimate and put it in yourself, no?
At least, tell us they didn't charge you for the inspection (well, at least upfront since it looks like they may charge you for the inspection 10x later on if you do the work there)...
What you have to figure out is if you can find an independent who you trust as much as the dealer. The dealer will almost for sure charge you more but you may possibly have more recourse in case of a problem (although that is not a given).
Best solution is to find a good independent who you trust, does a good job, and is cheaper than the dealer. And yes for sure you can use an independent, even when you are under warranty. What you probably don't want is a hacker who has no clue about cruisers.
 
Prices are what I'd expect a dealership to charge, +/- 20%. They are always high. For instance, I have an independent mechanic who said $115 for a brake fluid flush whereas your dealer said $155. Coolant leak is probably heater T's. They are $9 a piece and there are two of them. Hard to say without pics though.
 
my PO had an aftermarket rack put in. it failed very quickly and he ended up at the dealer having an OEM one put in. and from other threads, only put in an OEM one. having someone else change brake pads is the biggest waste of money on the entire truck. they are so easy to swap and the parts can be had for very cheap. it all depends how handy/mechanically oriented you are really. but yeah thats a massive bill to be faced with.
 
2001 100 series - brought the cruiser in because my rear quarter window spontaneously shattered...

Had them do an inspection while it was in there... Need advice on reasonability here... I don't know what's really necessary to complete aside from brakes.

Original Estimate: $529.90


$465 Coolant leak- coolant leaking back of the motor puking. Coolant almost empty-coolant passage pipe

$717.95 front pads and re-packing both front wheel bearings.

$1210.21 both rear pads/both rear calipers(both calipers leaking)/both rear brake shims/and both rear rotors.

$2277 for the power steering rack and pinion. Rack is leaking. Prices includes alignment .

$155 for brake fluid flush (brake work)

$5355.06 plus tax.


Can I take this to an outside mech? I'm in Seattle WA

So for most of this stuff, brakes, rack etc. I'd go and see the folks at Tru-line on Boren Ave South in Seattle. See what they think. They do suspension, brakes, and steering (but not engines) they also work magic when it comes to alignments on Land Cruisers. Most importantly, you can supply the parts.

Cheers,
Chris
 
Each oem rotor front or rear is $70, pads $75. Just for parts for rear break job will cost you about 220. Looking at these figures, man how much I have saved just on Labor!. Get a Haynes manual if you want to learn on how to fix simple things, thats exactly I learned to fix cars.
 
If I were in your shoes I'd see how far out Torfab (they are up in Everett)is, the guys are super knowledgeable and are great to deal with. I had them do a look over on my 100 and it was a great experience. That is if you don't want to/don't have time to dig in yourself.
 
2001 100 series - brought the cruiser in because my rear quarter window spontaneously shattered...

Had them do an inspection while it was in there... Need advice on reasonability here... I don't know what's really necessary to complete aside from brakes.

Original Estimate: $529.90


$465 Coolant leak- coolant leaking back of the motor puking. Coolant almost empty-coolant passage pipe

$717.95 front pads and re-packing both front wheel bearings.

$1210.21 both rear pads/both rear calipers(both calipers leaking)/both rear brake shims/and both rear rotors.

$2277 for the power steering rack and pinion. Rack is leaking. Prices includes alignment .

$155 for brake fluid flush (brake work)

$5355.06 plus tax.


Can I take this to an outside mech? I'm in Seattle WA
The statement "Coolant almost empty" is concerning. I'd be checking for signs of overheating.

Don't take to any mechanic. Find one that specializes in 100 series is best. At minimum, use a Toyota/Lexus mechanic not just some INDY shop.
 
Thank you all,

Giving Torfab and Tru-Line calls today to run estimates, see what really needs to be done.

Dealers got me in vice temporarily with it pouring rain this week and the insurance is a week out from being able to replace the window. (deductible 1/3 cost of cheapest repair option)

Will follow up with comparable quotes
 

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