2008-2018 Radiator Failure and Public Service Announcement (11 Viewers)

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Which epoxy did you use? I am about to order the JB Weld radiator repair kit. It says it’s good up to 250ºF. But I might be interested in what you used if it’s good to 400ºF.
You can watch the extensive Project Farm test vid on YouTube. He compares multiple popular 2-part epoxies, including several types of JB Weld in different types of stress and joints and materials. It's pretty clear that the good old original, standard JB Weld is the best all around, and even beats the "specialized" JB Plastic Weld for plastic, and is particularly good for shearing and tensile strength. I'd go standard original JB Weld. The only other company that might have some 4 dimensional voodoo science magic that might be able to beat original JB is 3M, but given available empirical data at this point, original JB Weld is the current and long time reigning champion.
 
You can watch the extensive Project Farm test vid on YouTube. He compares multiple popular 2-part epoxies, including several types of JB Weld in different types of stress and joints and materials. It's pretty clear that the good old original, standard JB Weld is the best all around, and even beats the "specialized" JB Plastic Weld for plastic, and is particularly good for shearing and tensile strength. I'd go standard original JB Weld. The only other company that might have some 4 dimensional voodoo science magic that might be able to beat original JB is 3M, but given available empirical data at this point, original JB Weld is the current and long time reigning champion.
I'll look that video up. Thanks!
 
You can watch the extensive Project Farm test vid on YouTube. He compares multiple popular 2-part epoxies, including several types of JB Weld in different types of stress and joints and materials. It's pretty clear that the good old original, standard JB Weld is the best all around, and even beats the "specialized" JB Plastic Weld for plastic, and is particularly good for shearing and tensile strength. I'd go standard original JB Weld. The only other company that might have some 4 dimensional voodoo science magic that might be able to beat original JB is 3M, but given available empirical data at this point, original JB Weld is the current and long time reigning champion.

Check the temperature rating of the epoxy for the job, in this case a hot radiator. Most hardware store epoxies will soften/melt around 180 deg unless designed for higher temperatures like a radiator repair epoxy.

That could be "part II" - Project Farm testing high temp radiator repair epoxies
 
Check the temperature rating of the epoxy for the job, in this case a hot radiator. Most hardware store epoxies will soften/melt around 180 deg unless designed for higher temperatures like a radiator repair epoxy.

That could be "part II" - Project Farm testing high temp radiator repair epoxies

Good thinking, but, "J-B Weld can withstand a constant temperature of 500 °F (260 °C), and the maximum temperature threshold is approximately 600 °F (316 °C) for 10 minutes." - Wikipedia cites this to J-B Usage Instructions", JBWELD.net, 2004, JBWELD-use.

This stuff has been used to patch engine blocks. A radiator should be no problem.
 
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Good thinking, but, "J-B Weld can withstand a constant temperature of 500 °F (260 °C), and the maximum temperature threshold is approximately 600 °F (316 °C) for 10 minutes."

This stuff has been used to patch engine blocks. A radiator should be no problem.

Which of the many J-B Weld products has that temp rating? They make some good stuff.

I just want others here reading this to choose right stuff for the job.
 
I thought it was interesting that the JB RadiatorWeld says it’s good to 250ºF. Seems low compared to their many other products, but maybe it cures in a way to allow the radiator to expand and contract the slightest bit with temperature swings. Just speculating.
 
I'd have no issue patching the radiator if I was on a trip. However when I got home I'd replace it. My labor is free and the parts cost is very reasonable
 
Which of the many J-B Weld products has that temp rating? They make some good stuff.

I just want others here reading this to choose right stuff for the job.
This appears to be for the good ole, tried and true, original JB Weld. Again, this seems to be the best overall for just about any application (at least according to testing done by Project Farm....which is LEGIT testing. About the best properly controlled scientifically rigorous testing as you'll find on YouTube for these kinds of products.) I've updated the original claim with a reference for the quote, which Wikipedia references to usage instructions off JB Weld's website.

 
Another victim here. After reading this thread I went out to look at mine just in case as I have planned a roadtrip for next week. Good thing I caught this! No coolant light, explosion, and definitely no overheating. Maybe I'll go buy a lottery ticket...

View attachment 3173670

Just got mine back from the dealer today. All is well now but if anyone is wondering what it runs retail, it's ~$1200. Took about 4 business days as they had to order the radiator but I had a nice loaner in the meantime. Parts were radiator + hoses + clamps. Labor ran right around $680 at $175/hr.

This was covered under warranty/deductible so it didn't really sting. Dealer service was excellent as usual.
 
Just got mine back from the dealer today. All is well now but if anyone is wondering what it runs retail, it's ~$1200. Took about 4 business days as they had to order the radiator but I had a nice loaner in the meantime. Parts were radiator + hoses + clamps. Labor ran right around $680 at $175/hr.

This was covered under warranty/deductible so it didn't really sting. Dealer service was excellent as usual.
Double check your recirc flap if you didn't lock your glove box and keep the key blade with you..
 
Does mine have the NEW Rad or the OLD rad?

rad-2016.jpg


rad-2016-02.jpg
 
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Might as well post it here too since people appear to be having trouble finding it.

This is the new radiator, note the more rounded edges where the ID plate area meets the tank to reduce stress risers, and the rear edge being more prominent since the plate got tilted forward to reduce the height of the front edge.

The quickest way to tell at a glance is the tank is flush with the center of the tag, not the rear edge like the old one.

3E133E89-710F-4086-9A01-571A46C3FB9F.jpeg
 
Not that more photos are needed here, but just adding data. Here is my (new to me) 2016 LX. Truck has 129k miles. Crack is visible but not bad. I will consider doing suggested JB weld fixed just for fun while I accumulate parts.

radiator clack.jpg


rad.png
 
I just picked up my 2011 two weeks ago. I'm the 3rd owner and the PO said he'd never touched the radiator. But I'm hoping/wishing/praying the original owner did. I think this is the new radiator, but it has a different part number than the one above. Can anyone confirm this is good? Would be a huge relief.

Radiator.jpg
 
I just picked up my 2011 two weeks ago. I'm the 3rd owner and the PO said he'd never touched the radiator. But I'm hoping/wishing/praying the original owner did. I think this is the new radiator, but it has a different part number than the one above. Can anyone confirm this is good? Would be a huge relief.

View attachment 3183529

That's the new style. You are good. Most likely replaced at some point.
 
@Goldbug - confirmed this is good !!
 
I have an '08 w/~105k on the clock. Is this one of the dog radiators? If so, surprised it has not gone bad yet.
View attachment 3244689
Sure is. I’m wondering if pretreating with some jb weld makes sense. If the vehicle is new to you, it might have already been replaced.
 

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