bloc
SILVER Star
I’d say check heater T’s first. Many of ours are perfect even approaching 200k.
2008-2018 Radiator Failure and Public Service Announcement (9 Viewers)
- Thread starter jclarke450
- Start date
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bloc
SILVER Star
IMO you are on borrowed time, that crack appears to be opening and I believe will fail before long. JBweld is a great idea to help prevent a leak until you can get it changed, but personally I don’t think this is a good candidate for long term epoxy repair, considering the plastic seems so compromised already.
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I cleaned it with alcohol, scuffed it up, and cleaned it again. My crack was barely even there. I did not open it up or anything. I posted pics a few pages back in this thread. The biggest thing is prepping the area and making sure there are no air pockets in your JB weld mixture.
I would do the $10 Glue WB Weld patch, and will last till the new one arrives and can be installed.
Thanks for all of the input.
You have enough time to get to a shop. Change that sucker! Not a fun fail to experience, not worth any dilly dally at all.
Ill be replacing mine with new oem at 90k in about a year along with all fluids and water pump, tensioner, idler. And all i have is hairline stress discoloration in the tiny crevice. Even then i am still very wary!
I bet its more a cold climate thing with neg ambient to op temp cycles no?
What is the best (metal) replacement btw? And how does one check the health without beating on them?
Will do mine when coolant is drained (early at 90 in a year or so) when i do that overhaul. (And try not to put a supercharger on it lol).
bloc
SILVER Star
I really can’t wrap my head around why some suffer this issue and others don’t. It being common on the 100 is actually easier to understand..
I haven’t tracked the metal replacements because I’m not interested. The stock spring clamps depend on the plastic outlet diameter being in an extremely narrow range, and I know the plastic ones are perfect.
As for how to check, I’d say have new T’s on hand and when the system is open pop one hose off each T and check condition. If they are like mine (factory fresh) avoid disturbing any more hose connections and just leave them in place. I know we love to tinker but there is a case to be made for disturbing as little as possible when doing work in order to avoid the statistical chance of mistakes.
Why do some oem radiators have the toyota markings and others don't? Mine was replaced 2 years ago at a Lexus dealership but no markings to show.
bloc
SILVER Star
It’s probably not Genuine Toyota. Some dealers will happily install aftermarket parts if that’s what they can get quickly.
Yeah… and probably should do oem with new springy clamps to match. With coolant every 100k miles or so anyway, not a big deal or cost prohibitive. Like you said, seems like a 100 thing to worry about it. Im def not trying to mess with mine atm.
What @bloc said probably…
Do you have receipt?
I know some have stickers instead of paint, so they may have just not put the sticker on?
Either way they forgot your top foam seal strip too…
More evidence of dealer foolery.
Exactly.
They are not under an obligation to put in Toyota oils either. They can put in cheep oils that are acceptable.
I just got bit by the bad radiator bug. 2013 LX570 at 160k. I just paid the dealer to replace it. $1400. I wish I thought to replace the water pump while they were at it.
Sucks bro. This definitely needs to be pinned so it gets replaced early by everyone.
Also, you got a pic of the new one?
The new one basically looks exactly like the one in post #1575. I did not take a picture before they buttoned all the plastic cladding back up.
I got lucky, I did not even know it was bad. I had it in for the 160k service and they discovered it had blown. I have never once had overheating or any coolant pools. I think the crack must have just recently started spitting coolant.
So I patched a not yet weeping crack in the usual place a couple years ago.
Was doing some other maintenance today and noticed coolant residue.
Found this pink party at the thermostat bung. It’s cracked on the 90 degree portions beside and behind the thermostat. I have epoxied the sides, waiting for coolant to cool down and stop weeping so I can try to epoxy behind.
Guess it’s time to order the radiator and water pump, fan coupler etc
Was doing some other maintenance today and noticed coolant residue.
Found this pink party at the thermostat bung. It’s cracked on the 90 degree portions beside and behind the thermostat. I have epoxied the sides, waiting for coolant to cool down and stop weeping so I can try to epoxy behind.
Guess it’s time to order the radiator and water pump, fan coupler etc
Radiator is some real trash bin stuff.
So is Tesla
So is Tesla
Honestly give me a good beater recommendation. Im still undecided and need something i will enjoy trashing in Houston traffic. Like run it through the harshest auto washes, not dodge any pothole, and leave in the baking sun dirty all the time. i4 is nice, but i need a hooptie i truly dont care about, an will never maintain. Used tesla kind of fits the bill.
