2008-2018 Radiator Failure and Public Service Announcement

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I did not ask for a replacement at that visit. My intentions were to help the SM with a know failure point with the LC they will be seeing.

When I drove through the new car lot there were 8 2018 LC's ready for a new home.
 
Guys - sorry if addressed elsewhere I could not find, but is the general consensus (when replacing the radiator) to definitely change out the water pump and only do the belts and tensioner IF the tech advises based on the visual inspection? Vehicle is 2010 and 140k.

Any other recommendations?

Many, many thanks
 
Guys - sorry if addressed elsewhere I could not find, but is the general consensus (when replacing the radiator) to definitely change out the water pump and only do the belts and tensioner IF the tech advises based on the visual inspection? Vehicle is 2010 and 140k.

Any other recommendations?

Many, many thanks

I am not a veteran member but a newbie so take my advice with a grain of salt. The point of doing the serpentine belt and tensioner is because you are only paying for the part. No extra labor being charged so while the radiator is out is easy to replace those parts.
 
Guys - sorry if addressed elsewhere I could not find, but is the general consensus (when replacing the radiator) to definitely change out the water pump and only do the belts and tensioner IF the tech advises based on the visual inspection? Vehicle is 2010 and 140k.

Any other recommendations?

Many, many thanks

@140k miles, choice should be easy. Do it.

Are you a DIYer? Then labor is free and relatively easy if you needed to address it later. If you have to pay someone, probably better to let them take care if of it while they are in there. Likely won't need to service that part of the motor again until the next water pump.

Your question is really whether it's worth the opportunity cost to do now for cheaper vs at an added cost later. That's really a personal question only you can answer.
 
Given the mileage I agree with @TeCKis300. That said if you can't afford it right now don't sweat it, the difference in the book rate between doing it now and doing it later is only 1 hour (0.8 vs 1.8) and the water pump will give plenty of warning as it starts to go.


upload_2018-12-19_9-14-11.png


upload_2018-12-19_9-13-26.png
 
Guys, thanks so much for the feedback, it is appreciated! Yeah, with the Holidays upon us I think I'll do the belts at another time.

Again, thanks!
 
At 77k when I did my radiator I didn't do belts, water pump, or tensioner but I did do hoses (and clamps). The dealer says the clamps are supposed to be one-time use. They weren't that expensive so I didn't really argue.
 
I suspect as long as the clamp doesn’t bond with the rubber on the hose and cause it to bend when peeling away they can be reused just fine.

But yes they shouldn’t break the bank.
 
I guess in principle, clamps shouldn't be reused. In practice, they are reused all the time. Especially the Toyota ones which seem overbuilt compared to say European car clamps. In my years of wrenching and engine swaps, I've never had issue with reusing one.
 
I guess in principle, clamps shouldn't be reused. In practice, they are reused all the time. Especially the Toyota ones which seem overbuilt compared to say European car clamps. In my years of wrenching and engine swaps, I've never had issue with reusing one.

I have yet to find a Toyota clamp that can be removed WITHOUT the use of pliers. I just do not have the grip strength to remove them....
 
^Seriously. Perhaps if I used my teeth? o_O :hillbilly:

My tool of choice
1027_1024x1024.jpg
 
I just installed a new Toyota radiator, part number 16400-50384. It still has a raised flat area, but it is a different design than the original. Hopefully, they corrected the problem.

rC_u6EuH54E41OtFjAvAo06nU71skQtZNvOkr45bV9UVl7j22SgNprZAFpzvglD4EjKC4raNEzjqWYZlSynm7GvqPO4wooMC4GMV3EuJpZFwNUrrqkHLpvEFnmjdP19XWGLpLbUBnJWTvjrmBReIl-1t5c2BSjatNRXDFfNrMxuVPxGG3RtNBF2WGx_2i1lkIyXhOsrUAJvR4fbhlpetqpwwMCFv9LjQkP4moPr0xR4fQKbLW54kfqLjZoMY_X3oTnLEA_L_dldwIOqjgbwMirbumlbOv-aMramhf0m95-XWVPsIPbmEaUVBG7ePE6ee7oNw6MnKHf_X7XPrn5gSD8LRRrMyq5saQv0mP3DUpIn4qjvyNnP2Onl5s2YcArxGJSH5fdcWGR9zO2TpBTIjTKB9hfzh8f73CPkIQO1wyEfnvM4ttIEortX1Kp4JO_Joe9PDx6-w-nLzlQDDH6ClANDRbPcVidnlv81fyT_2uXd1LyKKtD3IbqAXoOAz9V57AGIvAoe1_UFaxgNw40BolJmJeLV5yjwwihQakMiegtptPXGtuhE2Dhb1kbrrh9PaFhY4mmPPLHj3awIw3wg1bgd2dY_NYAVq6JD86YjzYhZB5Ol5Nfk0HzvfSSQ-fQ4xzqILIXuIehazBkjReYWHcM3UzQ=w1545-h869-no
 
New radiator installed - now would like to clean up the antifreeze spots and road grime as engine covers will stay off (save the silver engine top cover). Is Gunk (Original engine degreaser) ok to use? Any other recommended cleaner?

Screen Shot 2018-12-28 at 2.01.55 PM.png
 
New radiator installed - now would like to clean up the antifreeze spots and road grime as engine covers will stay off (save the silver engine top cover). Is Gunk (Original engine degreaser) ok to use? Any other recommended cleaner?


71KmxPT6NAL._SL1500_.jpg


This will not harm Aluminum and leaves no residue.

HTH
 
71KmxPT6NAL._SL1500_.jpg


This will not harm Aluminum and leaves no residue.

HTH
Many thanks - OK to shoot on the electrical connectors located near the drivers side firewall - lots of road grime build up there? Also, I do have an unused can of Gunk - it it really OK to use? Is simple green that much better/safer?

Thanks so much!
 
New radiator installed - now would like to clean up the antifreeze spots and road grime as engine covers will stay off (save the silver engine top cover). Is Gunk (Original engine degreaser) ok to use? Any other recommended cleaner?

View attachment 1864342


Good to see more of the new design showing up.

Dried coolant should rinse off easily with straight water.
 
Good to see more of the new design showing up.

Dried coolant should rinse off easily with straight water.
Yes, it does, but some places I just cant reach - and I'd like to clean off all the salt and muck accumulated over the years under the (now removed) engine shroud covers.

I've gotten some guidance from (of all places) a nutty Italian car website - the consensus is "scrubbing bubbles"
 
Any auto parts place sells foaming engine degreaser by the brand gunk. Unless we are talking caked on grease the mildest of the three versions should work well.
 
Yes, it does, but some places I just cant reach - and I'd like to clean off all the salt and muck accumulated over the years under the (now removed) engine shroud covers.

I've gotten some guidance from (of all places) a nutty Italian car website - the consensus is "scrubbing bubbles"
Not sure if scrubbing bubbles has chlorine in it or not, but if it does I wouldn't use it, it may make plastic and rubber parts dull and brittle .
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom