New to me 2013 LX with 99k miles. Checked the radiator and don’t see a crack at all, but wondering why there isn’t any writing? It seems like all the other photos posted here have writing on the flat part but mine doesn’t? Am I looking at the right area?
2008-2018 Radiator Failure and Public Service Announcement (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter jclarke450
- Start date
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bloc
SILVER Star
Most likely an aftermarket radiator.
the white lettering on mine is almost totally disintegrated too. 2014, 110k miles, original. tiny crack forming, not aftermarket. i clean the engine bay every year to keep salt and sand at bay which probably contributed.
Interesting, never saw a service record for it being replaced. Is there a way to tell if it’s the updated design or not? Or will I just kinda need to check it going forward.
bloc
SILVER Star
It’s definitely not the updated Toyota part.
It is possible it got replaced by someone other than the dealer and wouldn’t make it into the service record.. but your mileage does seem a little early.
That looks very clean. My bet is it’s original and the lettering has been cleaned off with some sort of chemical cleaner or dressing.
bloc
SILVER Star
@Oogabooga The other thing that makes me skeptical is the stock radiator and any Genuine Toyota replacement would have a foam strip running along the front to seal it to the core support. That is usually not on aftermarket radiators.
No foam here, nor evidence that it was there.
No foam here, nor evidence that it was there.
Last edited:
32cls6speedmt
SILVER Star
@Oogabooga this radiators looks like post 610 on this thread. This looks like a denso radiator.
Is there a way to tell if it's a new or old radiator? No crack yet. 2017 with 110k miles.
bloc
SILVER Star
That's the old one, as expected on a 2017. Spend some time digging in this thread and you'll see the difference.. The new design has rounded edges and more smoothly "flows" into the upper tank material, whereas yours has sharp edges and stands up proud. Those sharp edges cause stress risers which is a major factor in the crack forming.
You have plenty of time. I'd clean it up well to confirm it isn't hiding under the crud but again, I believe you have plenty of time to address it.
I used a Lysol wipe to wipe mine down when I first thought I saw the crack being formed and it wiped the factory marking completely off with little effort.
may be someone cleaned the engine bay before selling. In anycase, just enjoy your ride rather than worrying about that leak. If you keep monitoring every oil change, you wouldn't end up on a highway with high engine temp. For reference, I had mine develop the crack but no affect. (just coolant goes down by a quart or two every oil change). I did the jb weld and it started leaking again, but little less. So now a quart every two oil changes. I keep checking coolant level and top it off for now before going on 1000 mile trips.
At some point when they run some discount on part, I am thinking to but the new radiator and get it replaced. with fan clutches, starter etc.
At some point when they run some discount on part, I am thinking to but the new radiator and get it replaced. with fan clutches, starter etc.
bloc
SILVER Star
I would consider doing your heater T’s as well.
More info
Heater Hose T Upgrade for my 200
Not me, I'm waiting for one of our Materials Engineers to chime in.
forum.ih8mud.com
If we didn't already compile a good to fix list with this radiator fix, we should come up with one, Please add to this:I would consider doing your heater T’s as well.
More info
Heater Hose T Upgrade for my 200
Not me, I'm waiting for one of our Materials Engineers to chime in.
Radiator
Heater T
Alternator?
Fan shroud clutch?
(Is starter any where easier to replace with radiator replacement work?)
bloc
SILVER Star
I would not change the alternator as PM. Brushes are much cheaper and generally that is the root cause of most of our alternator failures.
Heater T's on pre-2013 rigs only.
Starter is no easier with the rad out.
Fan clutch, I changed mine at close to 200k with no appreciable difference. I'd check condition of the fan support bearing while I had the radiator out though. Mine was getting noisy at 150k.
2008 with 173,000mi just stated leaking.
Had my rad fail on me today. I had this on my radar to complete anyway. Looking for some assistance with part numbers. If this has already been posted before, I apologize in advance as I spent half the day trying to locate the part numbers in previous threads or posts for all the items above for a 2009 LX 570. I also did my own search in the parts manual but looking for confirmation.I don't have the expertise and mechanically/electrically skilled as many on this forum. One reason why I'm going to the Cruiser on the Rocks in Silverton this July is to remind everyone what a stock Cruiser still looks like.
From what I witnessed watching the mechanic who came to my home yesterday to do the work, I can attest that it's MUCH easier to swap out the parts for those items when it's all done together. I recommend you get new Toyota parts for these items and replace simultaneously.
There is coolant leaking by the heater hose tees. I replaced the plastic tee with the metal ones 3.5 yrs and 63k miles ago, but not the hoses. The hoses now need to be replaced.
- Water pump
- Alternator
- Idler pulley
- Tensioner pulley
- Fan clutch
- Fan clutch pulley housing (bracket fluid coupling)
- Radiator (the Toyota box should have new mounts, cap, peacock valve, etc. included)
- Radiator upper/lower hoses
- Thermostat
- Heater hose tee lines. Mine had 2 sets with 3 hoses each, with the tee included. Each as a set from from Toyota. It was much easier for my mechanic to replace each as a set, instead of doing the hoses and tees separately. I do have a new metal tee that I will most likely take with me on trips. Then, I'll replace the OEM tee in about 50k miles if not before.
- My thermostat had 4 hoses connected to it. I'd replace those as well.
- Mine had 2 coolant hose attached to 2 metal lines near the radiator. I'm only replacing the one that is easier to access.
- I'm replacing a few more coolant-line/by-pass hoses that I could identify on a Toyota diagram.
- Serpentine belt.
- If you want the Toyota self-tensioning clamps for all your hoses, now is the time to get them. I'm replacing all of mine as connected by this job.
While you're in there, inspect for oil/coolant leaks around the engine block.
Don't forget to use the engine-coolant peacock valves to drain the coolant.
Initially, the Toyota dealer I use for discounted parts gave me a remanufactured radiator. You need to clearly specify you do not want a remanufactured alternator, but a new one. The remanufactured alternator was shown like this on the first invoice:
"27060-38050-84 REMAN ALTE M121"
I did not ask for a remanufactured one. So I had to call after the first invoice was emailed to me and state I want a new one. They changed it.
If you want to do a full tranny fluid flush, now is a good time. You can flush it all out by using the tranny fluid line by the radiator before you change anything, and then use the Toyota refill process after you install the above parts. I made a mess doing a fully tranny fluid change by using the tranny fluid line at the radiator. If you go this route and make a mess, it'll be easier to clean it up.
I record my maintenance on a spreadsheet. It will look very nice on your records, in your head, and on your rig knowing you did everything the same time.
Also, having done a lot of work on my 80 with the help of this community, I am not shy about tackling some of these items. My question is…is there any part here that I may need to take into shop for repair or are all the replacement parts listed straight forward to replace?
GJMacK3
SILVER Star
I bought a used 2013 LX with 160k at time of purchase. My radiator failed at almost 170k exactly. Replaced with an OEM denso radiator. I just purchased a 2013 LC last month with 125k on it. I'll post an update when that radiator fails. I know its going to eventually.
bloc
SILVER Star
OEM is not Denso, for the record.
