My 2008

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Joined
Jan 5, 2016
Threads
10
Messages
331
Location
Alabama
What an honor it is to finally be in the 200 section of Mud, I've glanced here with envy for a long time. I've had a 2005 GX470 the last 10 years, and built it up from bone stock and really enjoyed the ride, however I always wanted a real cruiser. This summer I decided that I wanted to sell it, but at the same time, made a rash and very impulse purchase on a built 100 series. Suddenly I found myself with two built rigs, and and a wife getting really annoyed with which one I should keep (sadly keeping both was not an option) I decided to sell both and fund a 200 series. I am on the pavement 99% of the time now, with my adventures being delivering a lot of kids to and from school on a daily basis, so I began my search for 200 series, and quickly realized old and stock was all that I could afford.

I searched for a while and found at the time, what looked to be the cheapest 200 series in in the country sitting at a used car dealership in Denver. It was a 2008 two owner magnetic gray metallic that spent its life in Colorado with 212k miles. After several calls, photos, and videos with the dealership, I purchased and eagerly awaited its arrival across the country.

Upon delivery I discovered this thing was what mostly what I expected, no rust underneath, no major dings or dints, but it was missing more interior and exterior trim pieces than I thought....and worse of all-previous owner was a smoker, the interior reeked.

Over the last few months I have replaced dry rotted window trim, PCV valve, all 4 brake rotors and pads, polished the headlights, and missing interior trim pieces.

I've been attacking the smoke smell with an "O Zone" machine from Amazon with great success, these things really work!

Future plans for the truck are the OEM front spacer and some larger rubber on bronze aftermarket wheels and I believe that will be all for me. I do believe it may have the cam tower weep on the passenger side and valley plate leak....no wonder this thing was "cheap". I've been watching oil and coolant levels closely and there has been no drop in levels since I have taken ownership, so I will tackle those down the road.

Having driven built up rigs the last 10 years, going back to bone stock is an adjustment and I am already fighting the urge to start throwing parts it. Sometimes in its stock form with slight front rake, it looks like a 2nd gen Honda Pilot. I do regret selling the 100 series, but I keep telling myself daily driving a 26 year old vehicle that struggled to maintain 65mph on the interstate wasn't the most practical thing in the world at this stage in my life. The 200 series easily maintains 80 mph on the interstate, and drives very smooth and is very comfortable. I also enjoying getting to that wonderful split tailgate without swinging a 35 out of the way every time. I am enjoying the 200 more and more every day and keep looking at all the builds here for inspiration. Cheers.

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Hey nice Honda Pilot.

Yeah I agree ozone generators are great. Bought a Lexus LS before and the previous owner loved cigars. On hotter days I was still getting a ashtray smell so I pulled the center console and there was a bunch of ash deep that went past the ashtray.
 
Enjoyed reading this write up. Honda Pilot made me laugh. Curious what is “cheap” for a 2008 with 2012?
 
Hey nice Honda Pilot.

Yeah I agree ozone generators are great. Bought a Lexus LS before and the previous owner loved cigars. On hotter days I was still getting a ashtray smell so I pulled the center console and there was a bunch of ash deep that went past the ashtray.

Enjoyed reading this write up. Honda Pilot made me laugh. Curious what is “cheap” for a 2008 with 2012?
I got this for $17,800 which was the “cheapest” I had been able to find.
 
I agree with your assessment of ozone machines. Those things are amazing.

Congrats on the new 200!
Ozone generators are very amazing, I agree!

But, don’t forget, you’re using ozone to oxidize and break down organic molecules (interior odors)—BUT a lot of your vehicle’s interior is ALSO made of organic molecules and it will certainly degrade those parts.

If it’s necessary, I’ll run the ozone generator for 60-90 minutes at a time with the engine off, hook up external power to battery, blower on high+recirculate, all vents open, windows closed, seat ventilation on (if equipped). Then after 60-90 minutes shut off the ozone generator, open doors, leave HVAC blower on for 10 minutes, and then go back and see how things smell.
 
I'm with you on the 2008! I've got the 2008 LX and, for the most part, love it. But I'm also in a slow build mode, having gotten rid of the cheap 3rd party 20" rims and tiny tires. Next, for me, is step sliders. Always been my first off-road component, coming originally from Arizona. HATE crushing the rockers and/or undercarriage.
Then, crossing fingers that tire prices come back to earth, I'm going to step up to 35"s...maybe. We'll see. I'll be watching your build to see how it's going for you!
Welcome to the Mud!
 
I see no one has mentioned yet replacing the cabin filter with one using carbon. Get an activated carbon filter (or a couple of them) put the HVAC in RECIRC, and replace the one it came with.
 
Nice!

My advice from personal experience dealing with a heavy smoker car (in addition to ozone and charcoal cabin filter) is you gotta strip that gal down and clean clean clean. Had an old protege I bought as a broke college student for 1500 bucks. Thing absolutely reeked. Tried all the things. Ozone, charcoal bags, coffee beans, baking soda, replaced filters, cleaned all surfaces incl carpet. It wasn't until I stripped the vehicle (pulled seats, carpets, headliner, center console, dash, etc) and wiped allllllll the residues that had seeped behind the carpets and headliner and dash that the smell was pretty much 95% gone. Still got a slight whiff of smoke on hot southern california summer days but pretty much no smell outside of those days. If it wasn't such a cheap beater vehicle I'd have just bought new carpets and headliner and seats instead of wetvacuuming/steam cleaning. I assume that's where the residual was stuck...especially in the foam of the seats and headliner. On the flip side I cleaned that thing so well (and detailed the outside) that I turned around and sold it for $3000 a couple years later lol.
 
Congrats on the 200! I think I remember seeing this one for sale (Denver-based here) and wondered who would end up with it. Mine was in a similar state as yours (valley plate leak) and I ended up doing the J2hundy gasket and haven't had an issue yet. I also just installed the OEM leveling kit to eliminate most of the Honda Pilot stance haha.

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Congrats on the 200! I think I remember seeing this one for sale (Denver-based here) and wondered who would end up with it. Mine was in a similar state as yours (valley plate leak) and I ended up doing the J2hundy gasket and haven't had an issue yet. I also just installed the OEM leveling kit to eliminate most of the Honda Pilot stance haha.

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Thank you! The stance on yours is perfect…exactly the look I am likely trying to go for on mine. Did you install the OEM spacers yourself? How difficult?

The rock warriors look good on these, having a hard time locating a set myself.
 
Thank you! The stance on yours is perfect…exactly the look I am likely trying to go for on mine. Did you install the OEM spacers yourself? How difficult?

The rock warriors look good on these, having a hard time locating a set myself.
Thank you! I did, it wasn't too bad an install. The previous owner installed KYB shocks on mine, and I think they may have a bit longer shock bodies. As a result, I struggled to get the shock low enough to clear the tower, but I eventually managed it with a longer cheater bar for more leverage. I also got an alignment right after installing them, but the alignment shop told me it wasn't too far out of spec. This video was super helpful: . If you're going to do it this way, I'd recommend a good impact and torque wrench that reads north of 200 ft lbs for the lower control arm ball joint bracket. I think the spec is 207 ft lbs if I remember correctly.

I searched for the rock warriors for like two months and eventually found a set with the KO2s already installed. Not the tire I would have picked for the winter out here, but we'll see. I looked into buying a set of just the rims from elsewhere, but the shipping would have been crazy expensive. They do fit perfectly with no rubbing and look great, so I think the wait was worth it!
 
Thank you! I did, it wasn't too bad an install. The previous owner installed KYB shocks on mine, and I think they may have a bit longer shock bodies. As a result, I struggled to get the shock low enough to clear the tower, but I eventually managed it with a longer cheater bar for more leverage. I also got an alignment right after installing them, but the alignment shop told me it wasn't too far out of spec. This video was super helpful: . If you're going to do it this way, I'd recommend a good impact and torque wrench that reads north of 200 ft lbs for the lower control arm ball joint bracket. I think the spec is 207 ft lbs if I remember correctly.

I searched for the rock warriors for like two months and eventually found a set with the KO2s already installed. Not the tire I would have picked for the winter out here, but we'll see. I looked into buying a set of just the rims from elsewhere, but the shipping would have been crazy expensive. They do fit perfectly with no rubbing and look great, so I think the wait was worth it!

I've watch this a couple of times, I'm glad to hear the video worked for you. My truck is pretty clean underneath so not too worried bout seized bolts, but a little worried about KDSS giving me fits putting it back together.
 
Awesome. I really like my 2008, and the prospect of building that truck up as OG modifier is great.

Just in case you ever have steering wheel rattles: before you start troubleshooting all the ways in which your VGRSS is broken, please check whether your 2008 has VGRSS at all. That being said, if you ever figure out how to fix the steering wheel rattle, please post how you did that.
 
Awesome. I really like my 2008, and the prospect of building that truck up as OG modifier is great.

Just in case you ever have steering wheel rattles: before you start troubleshooting all the ways in which your VGRSS is broken, please check whether your 2008 has VGRSS at all. That being said, if you ever figure out how to fix the steering wheel rattle, please post how you did that.
What is OG modifier? I like the term….
 
Awesome. I really like my 2008, and the prospect of building that truck up as OG modifier is great.

Just in case you ever have steering wheel rattles: before you start troubleshooting all the ways in which your VGRSS is broken, please check whether your 2008 has VGRSS at all. That being said, if you ever figure out how to fix the steering wheel rattle, please post how you did that.
Mine rattles a bit off-road. I haven't bothered to look into it yet, since it only happens on rocky fire roads. I think mine has the VGRSS but not totally sure.

I've watch this a couple of times, I'm glad to hear the video worked for you. My truck is pretty clean underneath so not too worried bout seized bolts, but a little worried about KDSS giving me fits putting it back together.
I cracked my KDSS bolts loose and slathered them with grease during my baseline. Some PB plaster helped (I doubt they have ever been opened), I'd also recommend a long allen socket. I haven't had any issues with KDSS lean yet, opened them to the amount they suggested in the video, then closed them and did a zero point calibration (thread on that here).
 
Awesome. I really like my 2008, and the prospect of building that truck up as OG modifier is great.

Just in case you ever have steering wheel rattles: before you start troubleshooting all the ways in which your VGRSS is broken, please check whether your 2008 has VGRSS at all. That being said, if you ever figure out how to fix the steering wheel rattle, please post how you did that.
I can't take credit for this fix but it works and is quick and easy to try first. - Run your steering wheel fwd and back to the stops a couple of times. This seems to move the grease around at the least and has worked well for my rattle in the steering column in my 2011 LC. Other members may remember were the topic was discussed and all the work they put into the steering sys to trouble shoot.
 
I can't take credit for this fix but it works and is quick and easy to try first. - Run your steering wheel fwd and back to the stops a couple of times. This seems to move the grease around at the least and has worked well for my rattle in the steering column in my 2011 LC. Other members may remember were the topic was discussed and all the work they put into the steering sys to trouble shoot.
Yeah, I think this works pretty well with the VGRSS models, but the poverty/early models do not respond as well to this. And I've spent hours at all angles trying to spread the grease with this method.
 
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