LRA Aux 24 Fuel Tank - How to Modify for 100s from 2006-2007.

[porkandcorn]

The Final Solution:

I presume that I now own the only 100 Series LC (2006), with an LRA Aux 24g tank fully isolated from the OEM tank and OEM EVAP system by two electronic ball valves. This required 1 1/2 years of fails, five un-install/re-installs, many iterated modifications, and even a near explosion on top of a mountain pass in Utah. This has been an exercise in stubborness and has nearly broken me at times.

That said, I now have a fully OEM fuel and evap system, AND a 24 gal aux tank, AND a truck that will not boil fuel or stall at high pass elevations! When I want to fill the LRA tank, I flip a switch at the dash, and it opens the 1" valve to fill. Finish filling, turn off switch, valve automatically closes. When I want to push fuel from the LRA tank to the OEM tank, I simply engage the LRA pump switch - that switch is slaved to both the pump motor AND the 1/2" valve on that filler line. When you turn off the pump, that valve closes off again on it's own. Was pretty satisfying to fill both tanks w/o issue right after the install.

Special thanks to Tony and Josh at Land Cruiser Northwest in Portland. Couldn't have done this without a beefy lift and a shop owner willing to let me team up with a tech. And thanks to Long Range America (US distributor for LRA) - they did the best they could to help me with a product that was not properly developed for the US market.

This blog will serve as a guide, but happy to help any other hundy owners if they want to give it a shot, and can talk LRAM out of a tank and fill neck... Because I think they stopped selling them to 2004-2007 LC owners, for obvious reasons...

Here's some images from the install, and of the final mods to the tank and the dual filler neck:

 

[porkandcorn]

More final install images:

 

[2001LC]

The Final Solution:

I presume that I now own the only 100 Series LC (2006), with an LRA Aux 24g tank fully isolated from the OEM tank and OEM EVAP system by two electronic ball valves. This required 1 1/2 years of fails, five un-install/re-installs, many iterated modifications, and even a near explosion on top of a mountain pass in Utah.

Actually, this has been an exercise in stubborness and has nearly broken me at times. That said, I now have a fully OEM fuel and evap system, and a truck that will not boil fuel or stall at high pass elevations. When I want to fill the LRA tank, I flip a switch at the dash, and it opens the 1" valve to fill. Finish filling, turn off switch, close valve. When I want to push fuel from the LRA tank to the OEM tank, I simply engage the LRA pump switch - that switch is slaved to the 1/2" valve on that filler line. When you turn off the pump, that valve closes off again.

Maybe LRA should have design it this way to start with?

Here's some images from the install, and of the final mods to the tank and the dual filler neck:

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View attachment 3115295


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Great work! Way to go, sticking with the job until it worked.
I can't really say much about set-up, as I've not dealt with. One thing I may have done different, is use ASS fuel line clamps.

 

[porkandcorn]

Great work! Way to go, sticking with the job until it worked.
I can't really say much about set-up, as I've not dealt with. One thing I may have done different, is use ASS fuel line clamps.

Thanks! It was quite a ride. Pretty satisfying to get to the end. I did use those wide clamps on all the connects, except for the one most visible there with 2 normal clamps. There was a slight taper, and so the 2 worked better in that one spot.

 

[porkandcorn]

Not so fast!

I had a pretty major oversight on the larger, modified vent from the LRA to atmosphere. I was encourage to increase the vent size by LRMA, but failed to realize that the previous and original vent on the LRA fed into the dual-filler neck and OEM system for a simple reason: liquid fuel moves!!! Those vents not only move air, but liquid. So a 1" vent direct to atmosphere, whether capped with a mushroom filter or not, will dump gas - I filled the tank up to 3/4 full, and that was a disaster. Anytime you corner hard, or really do anything, liquid fuel was dumping ALL OVER MY TRUCK AND ONTO THE ROAD. Took me a couple stops to realize it. Even at 1/2 full, similar. I had to be down to 1/4 full or empty for it to not be an issue. Not much use having an AUX tank at that point. Feel like a moron for not seeing this coming, but it was on a recommendation, and I was desperate to find a solution. (The valves work amazing by the way!

Still more kinks to work out, but getting closer.

 

[sunfic]

Not so fast!

I had a pretty major oversight on the larger, modified vent from the LRA to atmosphere. I was encourage to increase the vent size by LRMA, but failed to realize that the previous and original vent on the LRA fed into the dual-filler neck and OEM system for a simple reason: liquid fuel moves!!! Those vents not only move air, but liquid. So a 1" vent direct to atmosphere, whether capped with a mushroom filter or not, will dump gas - I filled the tank up to 3/4 full, and that was a disaster. Anytime you corner hard, or really do anything, liquid fuel was dumping ALL OVER MY TRUCK AND ONTO THE ROAD. Took me a couple stops to realize it. Even at 1/2 full, similar. I had to be down to 1/4 full or empty for it to not be an issue. Not much use having an AUX tank at that point. Feel like a moron for not seeing this coming, but it was on a recommendation, and I was desperate to find a solution. (The valves work amazing by the way!

So the sad realization is thus: THE LRA AUX 24 IS NOT A GOOD IDEA FOR 2004-2007 LAND CRUISERS.

This is the sad ending to this movie.

Maybe for our 04-07 LC100 we have to use venting cap separated from main filler port. Maybe need another electronics controlled valve. For more environment friendly, second canister is needed as well.

Gasoline Venting

Just as automobile technology is changing to match new environmental standards, so must our boats.

www.soundingsonline.com

 

[porkandcorn]

Maybe for our 04-07 LC100 we have to use venting cap separated from main filler port. Maybe need another electronics controlled valve. For more environment friendly, second canister is needed as well.

Gasoline Venting

Just as automobile technology is changing to match new environmental standards, so must our boats.

www.soundingsonline.com

I've had a few thoughts about this sloshing issue. I don't need a 1" vent to atmosphere. I only need to release an equal volume of air to fuel coming into the LRA Aux, so that the fuel neck doesn't back up. 5/8" vent should do it. Also, putting a couple 90 degree couplers in the hose should impede liquid fuel from getting too much momentum, but not reduce too much vapor escape.

 

[porkandcorn]

Actually, this has me thinking. I just need a snorkel for my vent! Duh. Found a marine vent with 5/8" barb. Just need to get down to a 5/8" hose I.D., and find a way to route that hose out of the wheel well and out the top of the vehicle, and suddenly, I should be able to fill the Aux tank to full anytime I want. Not really sure after all the complex engineering I did to this point, that I didn't think of this obvious fix to my sloshing fuel dilemma. This is a solution straight out of the boating world.! Thanks "SUNFIC" for getting me back on the horse again.

 

[porkandcorn]

Success!

Reduced my LRA 24Aux tank vent from 1" down to 5/8", routed the 5/8" vent hose through a hole I drilled in the top of the wheel well (near where the OEM jack is usually stored), routed the hose through the rear window to test.

Filled the LRA tank with 22 gallons, and then went into a parking lot and did hard, right-hand circles at 30-40mph to attempt to get fuel to dump out of the vent - nothing came out. I'm back in business! A two-year saga has finally ended!

Now just need to move a permanent marine-style vent in the top of the rear quarter pane (behind the rear window and above the OEM vent louvers.

 

[hoser]

Did you install and anti-spill valve?

 

[porkandcorn]

Did you install and anti-spill valve?

I'm building it just like the diagram in post #68. My first anti-spill valve is to not roll the truck. But not a terrible idea... I'll look into it. Seems like Holley Racing makes one that could go in-line. Ideally, I'd locate it down in the wheel well, just before the vent hose enters the OEM jack storage compartment.

 

[Pskhaat]

Can't wait to read this whole thread. FWIW I have every symptom you gave and without any aux fuel system. トヨタ made some serious errors in the new system, seemingly untested. I bitch more in other threads and damn this gasoline loving TMNA. But again can't wait for a full read.

 

[porkandcorn]

Can't wait to read this whole thread. FWIW I have every symptom you gave and without any aux fuel system. トヨタ made some serious errors in the new system, seemingly untested. I bitch more in other threads and damn this gasoline loving TMNA. But again can't wait for a full read.

And feel free to PM me after you read - happy to help you trouble-shoot. It's tricky, because there's often more than one cause to these things, making trouble-shooting really challenging.

 

[hoser]

I'm building it just like the diagram in post #68. My first anti-spill valve is to not roll the truck. But not a terrible idea... I'll look into it.

Yes, I see in the diagram what looks like an anti-spill valve but can't see anything like that in your pictures. I'd highly suggest something in place in case of roll-overs. I was on the Rubicon trail the week after this bad accident involving spilled fuel.

 

[GTV]

Big thank you for doing the homework on this! Gives me hope that a larger main tank is feasible as well.

 

[porkandcorn]

Big thank you for doing the homework on this! Gives me hope that a larger main tank is feasible as well.

100% feasible. Feel free to PM me for anything if you want to dig into it. I wish I knew 'future me', at the start of this process. Very satisfying to see my 4 green bars of delicious gasoline lit up again on the LRA indicator/pump switch. I like to refer to it as my private gas station.

 

[bentambling]

Hey Fritz, sorry to hear about your dilemma. I have an 06 too, the LRA is a good solution for me but that’s on the latter part of my list. From experience I had venting issues too in the past on this specific vehicle model. My first question is, have you by chance replaced your oem fuel pump already? If yes, what part number did you use?

Reason for me asking is that the 06 and the 07 models uses a unique fuel pump (2-speed) and can be related to under (stalling) / over (venting) fuel pressurization. For most of what the 06 and 07 owners including me have experienced aside from stalling at high elevations or with high ambient outside temperatures is the excessive venting on the gas gap and that concerning fuel smell.

Replacing the fuel pump fixed my stalling issues during the hot dry summer season here in Las Vegas as well as the venting issues experienced when we went up to 10k elevation at Kanab UT.

Hi, did u also have to change your fan clutch? Because im having same issue, only happens on elevated area. Do you still have the part no. Of the fuel pump? What year is yours?

 

[OEMGUY0720]

Hi, did u also have to change your fan clutch? Because im having same issue, only happens on elevated area. Do you still have the part no. Of the fuel pump? What year is yours?

Mine is an 06 and Yes I replaced the fan clutch when I did the timing belt and water pump et al service. What solved my gas tank venting and fuel spewing out of the filler neck problem was insulating the gas tank. That’s it, the issue never happened again. It lowered the fuel temperature in the gas tank hence lowering the pressure as well.

 

[2001LC]

Replacing the fuel pump fixed my stalling issues during the hot dry summer season here in Las Vegas as well as the venting issues experienced when we went up to 10k elevation at Kanab UT.

Mine is an 06 and Yes I replaced the fan clutch when I did the timing belt and water pump et al service. What solved my gas tank venting and fuel spewing out of the filler neck problem was insulating the gas tank. That’s it, the issue never happened again. It lowered the fuel temperature in the gas tank hence lowering the pressure as well.

I'm very curious. Do you still have the factory installed Charcoal Canister or was it replaced at some point?

 

[OEMGUY0720]

I'm very curious. Do you still have the factory installed Charcoal Canister or was it replaced at some point?

Charcoal Canister is still original from 2006 and has never been replaced.