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Where's the video?


You are going to be dangerous locked:skull::zilla::steer::clap:
 
don't puss out, Nick. Drive that thang in rear wheel drive until you have the funds to... LOCK IT UP!!
 
Please keep us posted on locker progress. Especially the rear factory locker.
 
That's the plan @Griffin.

ARB upfront with OEM locker (axle swap) in the rear!
So I'm a huge fan of my factory locker, but I've heard others say they would prefer an air locker. Why did you choose the elocker for the rear when you could just do two ARBs?

Sorry to hear about the diff busting up, but at least you'll be even more capable after the fix.
 
I can source a oem rear axle assembly from a junk yard for ~$500. I don't plan on gearing, so OEM it is.

I started taking things apart today to see what went wrong. Something interesting came out of the front diff when I remove the drain plug...nothing. No teeth, just above average shavings and oil.

Very confusing. I think the teeth are stuck inside.

image.jpg
 
I'm still not sure why you can't just plug the oem elocker into your current housing. Swapping axles just for a locker is way more work than it needs to be.
 
I started taking things apart today to see what went wrong. Something interesting came out of the front diff when I remove the drain plug...nothing. No teeth, just above average shavings and oil.

Very confusing. I think the teeth are stuck inside.


Sure looks like a piece of tooth in there to me. Only takes 1. That one tooth can bind on the way down. If you have a long flexible magnet, or if you can get your pinkie finger in the drain hole, you'll probably find more.

Better yet, spin the tail flange of the differential with your hand. Just past the 4th turn, it'll probably bind up and there's your break.

What else did you take apart?
 
I'm still not sure why you can't just plug the oem elocker into your current housing. Swapping axles just for a locker is way more work than it needs to be.
If it's like the 80 series, the housing is different between the E and Non-E-locker axles.
 
If it's like the 80 series, the housing is different between the E and Non-E-locker axles.

i thought only the third was different between locked/open 80 housings? but then again, i haven't looked at a open 80 rear housing.
 
Sure looks like a piece of tooth in there to me. Only takes 1. That one tooth can bind on the way down. If you have a long flexible magnet, or if you can get your pinkie finger in the drain hole, you'll probably find more.

Better yet, spin the tail flange of the differential with your hand. Just past the 4th turn, it'll probably bind up and there's your break.

What else did you take apart?


I pulled the CV axles today ( DS was removed on the trail) and will be inserting the bell housing from my spares to seal the hubs back up. I'll be pulling the front diff on the ground Thursday or Friday.
Here is where I sit as of today.

FYI: apperently the drive shaft nuts fit over the drive flange bolts :lol: :oops:

image.jpg
 
i thought only the third was different between locked/open 80 housings? but then again, i haven't looked at a open 80 rear housing.
I believe there's a notch in the housing where the elocker actuator sits, where as a regular open rear end would not need that notch. I have heard of cutting the notch into your housing, and I know that's pretty common on the 3rd gen 4Runners and equivalent gen Tacos. Anyway, /hijack and makes total sense to me @2000UZJ. What are your plans for actuation of the lockers?
 
Two things:

One: do the TJM front locker. It's cheaper and stronger than the ARB. I love mine!!

Two: don't get 5 point restraint for your seats. They are a hemorrhoid getting in and out every time. You will get tired of them quickly if this is your daily driver. I've had them in my pre-runner Baja bug that was street legal and it was always a pain having to use them unless I was really off-roading and jumping.
 
I believe there's a notch in the housing where the elocker actuator sits, where as a regular open rear end would not need that notch. I have heard of cutting the notch into your housing, and I know that's pretty common on the 3rd gen 4Runners and equivalent gen Tacos. Anyway, /hijack and makes total sense to me @2000UZJ. What are your plans for actuation of the lockers?

This is a pic of an 80 rear end that shows the part to trim and the holes to tap to add the elocker.

I would figure a 100 would be similar but have no first hand info on that.

image.jpg
 
Two things:

One: do the TJM front locker. It's cheaper and stronger than the ARB. I love mine!!

Two: don't get 5 point restraint for your seats. They are a hemorrhoid getting in and out every time. You will get tired of them quickly if this is your daily driver. I've had them in my pre-runner Baja bug that was street legal and it was always a pain having to use them unless I was really off-roading and jumping.


Well said. I like the TJM brand but I haven't heard much about their lockers. Maybe because I never needed one?

As for the seats, I've had some back pain for quite some time now and the OEM seats were too soft and didn't have enough support. I don't plan on having a 5-point harness for DD duty, just the OEM 3 point belt. I sit in traffic for 2-3 hours a day and have found that the seats provide just enough support for my back, and give just enough cornering support where I do not have to stiffen up my back to stay upright. Having a plush seat isn't in my cards, I need something with support. I don't find them hard to get in or out of honestly. The leg bolsters catch my thigh sometimes, but so did the OEM seats (which were collapsing). I actually real enjoy the seating position now. On the street they hold me tight, off road I do not move and that results in less moving of the upper body and less back pain.
 
Nick - i chose tjm over arb for the lack of complaints on the oil puking up the lines. i know it is rare and many never have an issue.. the more i looked at tjm the more i liked them, even with arb throwing out the new longer warranty recently.. i also understand the new arb's may have a more robust design now?? anyways, no regrets here, the tjm lockers have been reliable and quite nice to get me out of some sticky spots..
 
This is a pic of an 80 rear end that shows the part to trim and the holes to tap to add the elocker.

I would figure a 100 would be similar but have no first hand info on that.

I only needed to notch the housing when I stuck an 80 e locker into the front of my 62. But I talked to nick and found out why the whole axle would be swapped lol.


...via IH8MUD app
 
I only needed to notch the housing when I stuck an 80 e locker into the front of my 62. But I talked to nick and found out why the whole axle would be swapped lol.


...via IH8MUD app

What's the reason? I'm sure it's a stupid simple answer I'm overlooking. I know the gear ratio changed in 2003 when the trans change but why can't you do it in the 98-02?
 
What's the reason? I'm sure it's a stupid simple answer I'm overlooking. I know the gear ratio changed in 2003 when the trans change but why can't you do it in the 98-02?

Just easier to replace the whole axle.. but not nearly as fun as pulling shafts, pulling diff, finding new long spline shaft, ordering 4 longer OEM diff studs, notching the housing (a little), reinstalling :flipoff2:
 

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