So hardcore!
Builds 2000UZJ's Build (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter 2000UZJ
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So hardcore!
- Thread starter
- #62
This past weekend I attended the ACC Invitational at Golden Mountain in Sparta, TN. A few of you know already my 100 took a hard blow at the event. I managed to shear the motor mount (rubber bushing broke in half), and bent the rear driveshaft pretty good. Today I dropped the driveshaft off to get re-tubed to .120 outer tubing, hopefully that will minimize barber poling or bending.
I am due for new lower control arms and ball joints, I have ordered those from Onur (Beno) at Lowe Toyota. The Total Choas upper control arms are starting to make absurd noises, so I will be removing those this weekend and bathing them in grease.
When I bumped the ledge at Golden Mountain, I caught the lower control arm mount for the rear axle on the driver side and crumpled it. Upon inspection and attempting to pry it off the lower links, I noticed the entire housing is cracked down the side. Is it possible to cut the old one off and weld a new one one? When I say bumped, I mean slammed it into the rock at full force, I put all 8,000lbs on that mount, and my driveshaft.
I also noticed a new hump in my floor board. The transfer case lifted up so much that it slammed into the floorboard and dented it. so I am going to remove the interior (again), heat up the area and try to hammer it back smooth. Any input on the best way to do that?
I will post updates in my build more often, I have not posted all the updates yet.
I am due for new lower control arms and ball joints, I have ordered those from Onur (Beno) at Lowe Toyota. The Total Choas upper control arms are starting to make absurd noises, so I will be removing those this weekend and bathing them in grease.
When I bumped the ledge at Golden Mountain, I caught the lower control arm mount for the rear axle on the driver side and crumpled it. Upon inspection and attempting to pry it off the lower links, I noticed the entire housing is cracked down the side. Is it possible to cut the old one off and weld a new one one? When I say bumped, I mean slammed it into the rock at full force, I put all 8,000lbs on that mount, and my driveshaft.
I also noticed a new hump in my floor board. The transfer case lifted up so much that it slammed into the floorboard and dented it. so I am going to remove the interior (again), heat up the area and try to hammer it back smooth. Any input on the best way to do that?
I will post updates in my build more often, I have not posted all the updates yet.
- Thread starter
- #63
Adding more travel - 80 Series N74L Shocks
I installed the Bilstein 4600 HD shocks and loved them on the road, although a bit stiff I decided to keep them and run them for a year or two. The first trip out, I immediately noticed they are way to short. I read about the 80 series N74L shocks, but at the time they were discontinued. I found a pair for $100 and went to work. Direct bolt up, and awesome results.
Adding 3" of travel at the wheels in the rear has made a huge difference. To recap why I did the "L" shock mod, I have had Bilstein 4600's for the past 2 years. At the time I was not aware of the rear shock length. It is .5" shorter than OEM, and 1" shorter than the standard OME shocks for the 100. I was always on 3 wheels. The "L" shocks are the 80 Series long travel shock from OME. I thoroughly put them through their paces this week, from some higher speed washboard roads to some pretty twisty trails. I will admit, I love them 100%.
Some photo's of this weekend:
I installed the Bilstein 4600 HD shocks and loved them on the road, although a bit stiff I decided to keep them and run them for a year or two. The first trip out, I immediately noticed they are way to short. I read about the 80 series N74L shocks, but at the time they were discontinued. I found a pair for $100 and went to work. Direct bolt up, and awesome results.
Adding 3" of travel at the wheels in the rear has made a huge difference. To recap why I did the "L" shock mod, I have had Bilstein 4600's for the past 2 years. At the time I was not aware of the rear shock length. It is .5" shorter than OEM, and 1" shorter than the standard OME shocks for the 100. I was always on 3 wheels. The "L" shocks are the 80 Series long travel shock from OME. I thoroughly put them through their paces this week, from some higher speed washboard roads to some pretty twisty trails. I will admit, I love them 100%.
Some photo's of this weekend:
You're definitely getting a lot more droop than stock! Are you running extended rear bumps?
Any plans on what will you replace them with when you're done killing them?
Any plans on what will you replace them with when you're done killing them?
- Thread starter
- #65
The pictures above were with OEM arms and Bilsteins. That is actually less travel than OEM shocks. I added 3" of downtravel with the TC UCA's and Profenders. I have to find pictures of the front at full droop.
I killed the Bilsteins and OEM UCA's...a long time ago.
Edit: Here is a picture I found, not nearly full droop on the passenger side. You get the idea, it's quite impressive for the 100's IFS.
I thought your post was about rear L shocks and the 3" of additional droop your getting? My comment was about your droopy rear, lookin' good.
Are you saying you dumped the pro-fenders for L's up front?
Are you saying you dumped the pro-fenders for L's up front?
- Thread starter
- #67
Whoops, sorry. I pulled the L shocks and replaced them with the new Fox 2.0 IFP in the rear. I lost 3" of travel, but the front end helped compensate for the loss.
The L's are not technically a direct bolt on. Unless you bought them from someone who already prepped them for 100 Series fitment.
The bottom bushing OD is the same but the ID is different. In order to run them correctly, you need to lower the bumpstop and retain the spring as well.
Maybe that's why you have so many bangs and clangs and breaks?? You're using the wrong stuff or mounting it incorrectly?
The bottom bushing OD is the same but the ID is different. In order to run them correctly, you need to lower the bumpstop and retain the spring as well.
Maybe that's why you have so many bangs and clangs and breaks?? You're using the wrong stuff or mounting it incorrectly?
Nick, you really need to ditch the IFS and go SAS.
Your truck is begging you.
Your truck is begging you.
Yeah Nick, were already planning on removing the front suspension this weekend... might as well pull the engine, which will make the engine mount installation way easier, and stick a solid axle down there. Well be done before lunch and ready to watch the race
- Thread starter
- #71
The PO that I purchased the L's from owned an 80. I sourced some used bushings and hardware from OEM shocks and decided to try to mount the L's without replacing any of the hardware. I was able to get everything tightened down and torqued properly. The bottom eyelet did not have any play in it from what I could tell. My rear suspension has always been quiet, it is the front end that is squeaky and clanks.
- Thread starter
- #72
Yeah Nick, were already planning on removing the front suspension this weekend... might as well pull the engine, which will make the engine mount installation way easier, and stick a solid axle down there. Well be done before lunch and ready to watch the race
I really would like to do a SAS. It's not in the cards any time soon. I agree, it would be ideal for me to swap the front end out for a diamond axle, it would cut down on a lot of breakage and trouble for me. Considering it costs ~$20-$30 grand, I can buy a 80 Series, and wheel the snot out of it for $5-6K. That is in the cards in the next few years. I am quickly realizing the 100 is a GREAT off-road rig. I am also realizing even quicker it is NOT a reliable rock bouncer.
I have added a list of modifications in the first post. I think I covered most of them.
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Time to get a 40 Nick! Or hell, that Sami at ACC was pretty damn cool too! Probably a lot cheaper than a 40 these days.
2000UZJ Some photo's of this weekend: [/QUOTE said:
This is great write up and i'm sure you are having lots of fun...enjoy!
Now that you went through all the fun and experience, what are the top mechanical mods that you believe are worth it and you will never regret them, mods that don't stress the stock setup and provide for off-road enhancement plus don't sacrifice high way drivability. I say this Because I am tight on budget and this is my main car on and off-road. I really need this extra advantage when I am camping deep in the desert.
Many thanks
Now that you went through all the fun and experience, what are the top mechanical mods that you believe are worth it and you will never regret them, mods that don't stress the stock setup and provide for off-road enhancement plus don't sacrifice high way drivability. I say this Because I am tight on budget and this is my main car on and off-road. I really need this extra advantage when I am camping deep in the desert.
Many thanks
- Thread starter
- #76
Airing up a 35" tire was proving to be quite a task for my MV-50 air compressor. I was looking for alternatives that would not break the bank. I did some research and settled on a single air compressor and an air tank for my OBA setup. I used the following components
-Viar 380 200PSI Air Compressor
-Viar 2.5G 200PSI Tank
-Air Pressure Switch (195OFF/165ON)
-205PSI Burst Valve
-300PSI Air Lines
-Quick Disconnect with built in regulator
-ARB Tire Inflator
Total cost was $290 out the door.
I mounted the air compressor next to the dual battery tray, hooked up via 80AMP Twin Relay that also manages my power inverters. The system completely manages the air pressure without me having to do anything. I installed a override switch on the dash that cuts power for daily driving if I do not need the tank pressurized.
The Viar 2.5G tank is mounted to the body directly above the spare tire support (I had to remove it). The air lines run along side the frame along with the electrical. As stated before, the pressure switch maintains the pressure so I do not have to monitor the PSI. It turns on/off when needed, and in the even of a pressure switch failure, the burst valve will release the pressure before the tank blows. With a 200PSI compressor/tank I don't see the burst valve being needed, but better safe than sorry!
The MV-50 could air up a single tire in a little over 5 minutes (12PSI-40PSI). I was able to fill two tires before hitting the thermal cutoff. It was painful (25-30 minute average to air up). The Viar 380 paired with the Viar 2.5G tank gives me one tire per tank. Roughly 25 seconds to air up from 12PSI-40PSI. The refill process takes 3:25 to refill the tank for the next tire. It also allows for the compressor to cool while moving to a different tire and using the tank. Total time to air up all 4 tires now takes a little under 14 minutes. I have a two way air valve near the compressor that allows me to bypass the air tank and hook directly up to the compressor so I do not need to fill the tank.
I will post up pictures soon. The ones I have are not very good.
-Viar 380 200PSI Air Compressor
-Viar 2.5G 200PSI Tank
-Air Pressure Switch (195OFF/165ON)
-205PSI Burst Valve
-300PSI Air Lines
-Quick Disconnect with built in regulator
-ARB Tire Inflator
Total cost was $290 out the door.
I mounted the air compressor next to the dual battery tray, hooked up via 80AMP Twin Relay that also manages my power inverters. The system completely manages the air pressure without me having to do anything. I installed a override switch on the dash that cuts power for daily driving if I do not need the tank pressurized.
The Viar 2.5G tank is mounted to the body directly above the spare tire support (I had to remove it). The air lines run along side the frame along with the electrical. As stated before, the pressure switch maintains the pressure so I do not have to monitor the PSI. It turns on/off when needed, and in the even of a pressure switch failure, the burst valve will release the pressure before the tank blows. With a 200PSI compressor/tank I don't see the burst valve being needed, but better safe than sorry!
The MV-50 could air up a single tire in a little over 5 minutes (12PSI-40PSI). I was able to fill two tires before hitting the thermal cutoff. It was painful (25-30 minute average to air up). The Viar 380 paired with the Viar 2.5G tank gives me one tire per tank. Roughly 25 seconds to air up from 12PSI-40PSI. The refill process takes 3:25 to refill the tank for the next tire. It also allows for the compressor to cool while moving to a different tire and using the tank. Total time to air up all 4 tires now takes a little under 14 minutes. I have a two way air valve near the compressor that allows me to bypass the air tank and hook directly up to the compressor so I do not need to fill the tank.
I will post up pictures soon. The ones I have are not very good.
- Thread starter
- #77
I picked up a IronMan Awning a few weeks ago. I have not had a chance to use it, but I can't wait!
Here are a few pictures of how she sits right now. The last picture is one of my all time favorites. "Pucker Hill".
Here are a few pictures of how she sits right now. The last picture is one of my all time favorites. "Pucker Hill".
Bama4door
Supporting Vendor
The awning looks sweet!
- Thread starter
- #79
Busy weekend for me. I removed the old carpet and replaced it with a wooden deck for preparing food, cooking, and overall "cleanability".
After sealing up the lid, I crawled underneath and replaced the old shocks with some fresh ProFenders. The truck feels very planted now, reduced body roll, much better control overall. I mounted the resoviors above the lower control arm mount and cycled the suspension a few times to check clearance.
I have a few more things to install. My Sparco R100's will be shipping soon to replace the OEM seats for a little more support.
After sealing up the lid, I crawled underneath and replaced the old shocks with some fresh ProFenders. The truck feels very planted now, reduced body roll, much better control overall. I mounted the resoviors above the lower control arm mount and cycled the suspension a few times to check clearance.
I have a few more things to install. My Sparco R100's will be shipping soon to replace the OEM seats for a little more support.
I'm curious how you mounted your awning. Did you use those cool new mounts that Gamiviti is selling?
