2000 LC baseline/build

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Joined
Sep 1, 2016
Threads
8
Messages
106
Location
Knoxville, TN
I feel like everyone shows off their cruisers on here and it has taken me forever to figure out how in the world to put up pictures. But it started out as a beat down redneck machine with little to maintenance that I bought on craigslist. The guy was sure it had a reallly bad oil leak and after looking at it it was just power steering fluid. But i went ahead and beat him down on it and went with the oil leak story. So I got it for a great deal and that allowed me to put some much needed TLC into it.

First thing I did was take the tires off that were on it, they were the most miserable riding tire I have ever felt and they were crammed into the wheel wells. It just wasnt a good look. Then I went ahead and pulled the running boards off and some really poorly installed fender flares(lots of double sided tape that was peeling-they flopped in the wind) and then drove it for a few days to figure out any problems it needed taken care of sooner than later. Two days of driving 45 minutes each way to work make quite a few problems show themselves. Luckily I am able to rely on my work truck and got this one in the garage.

Once I got it on the lift i began taking everything apart and cleaning as I went, mainly because the PO never cleaned a thing. The farther into it I got i found myself doing a lot of well if I'm here i might as well go ahead and do this also. So now it has a new timing belt, water pump, thermostat, serpentine belt, idler pulleys, tensioner pulley, valve cover gaskets, heater tees, air filter, wheel bearings, axle flanges, steering rack, tie rod ends, ball joints, all rotors, SPC upper control arms, OME shocks, OME coils, OME torsion bars.

I still need to put a new radiator in it but that can wait for now. I want to drive it some now. Unfortunately where it had the redneck fender flares on it they decided to paint the bumper with it on the truck and when I pulled the flares there is still a silver line that was covered. So thats the next project.
but here are a few pictures of my project. I plan to start building sliders, rear bumper, and front bumper in the next month or so once I get some free time. I could not be any happier with the way it drives and rides now with all of the new parts. Originally it felt like an old war wagon going down the highway and you were afraid the steering wheel was going to vibrate out of your hands.





 
Looks good, nice job.

How about some more detail:
How many miles on it?
How much did you get it for?

Did you happen to check compression and valve gap while replacing valve cover gasket?

I'll bet the lube 6 points where dry. Every under maintained I've seen PO used Jeffylube, they almost never lube them.
Nor do they Flush power steering or transmission with ATF, nor differentials or transfer case w/gear lube as recommended by Toyota.
I just use Mobil 1 on all these as it's easy to get and remember.

One observation:
The proper stance is stink bug (front end lower). Helps keep steering from wondering side to side while driving down the HWY.
 
the front end sits about 1" lower than the front. after driving it to work this morning im going to bring it down a hair more. Once i put my toolbox in the back it will probably sit about level after that. I gave a guy $3500 for it and it has 186k miles. the interior is surprisingly in good shape. I have already done a full coolant flush when i did timing belt and water pump and power steering fluid flush and filter/screen cleaned. i have the fluids (mobil 1) to do the differentials. I havent decided what to do on the trans. I am not a firm believer in flushing a trans. never done it on a toyota. every other car I have ever done tends to have issues if you do it with high miles. any input? and i didnt include it, but yes, it was dry as a bone.... no lube anywhere so several tubes of grease and a sore arm later everything is greased.

I did check compression when buying it just to be safe and it was all on point. did not check valve gap. I probably should have but didnt take the time.

The wheels are the stock 16's with the rustoleum truck bed liner sprayed on them unfortunately. and the tires are the tall skinny's. 255/75/16 Cooper ST Maxx. very pleased with them, run them on my work truck as well. they have great road manners and stick like glue in the fields.
 
Truck looks great. Keep up the good work. My story is a little similar. Found on craigslist. Got it for a similar price. Maintenance needs attention, suspension needs attention, tires need attention.... so quite a bit of work ahead.

Is that the 2.5" OME lift?
 
the front end sits about 1" lower than the front. after driving it to work this morning im going to bring it down a hair more. Once i put my toolbox in the back it will probably sit about level after that. I gave a guy $3500 for it and it has 186k miles. the interior is surprisingly in good shape. I have already done a full coolant flush when i did timing belt and water pump and power steering fluid flush and filter/screen cleaned. i have the fluids (mobil 1) to do the differentials. I havent decided what to do on the trans. I am not a firm believer in flushing a trans. never done it on a toyota. every other car I have ever done tends to have issues if you do it with high miles. any input? and i didnt include it, but yes, it was dry as a bone.... no lube anywhere so several tubes of grease and a sore arm later everything is greased.

I did check compression when buying it just to be safe and it was all on point. did not check valve gap. I probably should have but didnt take the time.

The wheels are the stock 16's with the rustoleum truck bed liner sprayed on them unfortunately. and the tires are the tall skinny's. 255/75/16 Cooper ST Maxx. very pleased with them, run them on my work truck as well. they have great road manners and stick like glue in the fields.
Great price.

Oh, stance looked level in pictures.

I've never had issue with flushing (12qt M1 MV AFT) on these rigs. Never check one where fluid smelt brunt or very low either. If in doubt ease into it by doing drain and fills (~4qt) repeatedly over time to very slowly clean gunk out, until confident. Closely inspecting the pan flush each time. The concern with any transmission; gunk is holding together the fiction plates or gunk released will plug cambers/valves. This is not a Honda, which has known issue like this as do many vehicles. My feeling is if it's that fragile, may as find out now rather than on a back road 100 miles from nowhere.

I've only seen one report of a member checking valve gap in 13 years. I'm always asking;) I never have check myself, as I find re-torque valve cover bolts stop the leaky cover gasket and spark plug tube seals. So I've never had reason to pull covers.
 
2" OME from rocky road outfitters. and SPC Upper control arms from Cruiser Outfitters. both had great customer service.

The trans fluid looks/smells fine at this time so im probably going to let it rock for the time being. more worried about the diffs and t case.
ohh and i flushed all the brake fluid.

I probably could have gotten away with retorquing but curiosity got the best of me and I wanted to pull the covers.

My wife constantly complained about wanting a LC of her own instead of driving mine sometimes, so i figured i could buy this project and use the excuse of I wanted to get her one.
 
Time to add to the list. I replaced my steering rack about a month ago. I was driving the truck last night and turned into a parking spot and the bushing completely failed and the boot let go slinging power steering fluid all over the fender well and everything else under the car. (both sides have leaked since day 1.)
It made my monday complete.
I called Toyota and they told me to bring them that one and they will replace it no cost. If only they would replace my labor time for no cost also. maybe at least the beer it took me to complete the job. So if anyone needs pictures of anything during a rack replacement let me know. Ill be taking it apart tonight or tomorrow and hopefully have it back together by the weekend for the camping trip.
 
Time to add to the list. I replaced my steering rack about a month ago. I was driving the truck last night and turned into a parking spot and the bushing completely failed and the boot let go slinging power steering fluid all over the fender well and everything else under the car. (both sides have leaked since day 1.)
It made my monday complete.
I called Toyota and they told me to bring them that one and they will replace it no cost. If only they would replace my labor time for no cost also. maybe at least the beer it took me to complete the job. So if anyone needs pictures of anything during a rack replacement let me know. Ill be taking it apart tonight or tomorrow and hopefully have it back together by the weekend for the camping trip.
Bummer, was it a rebuilt or new OEM rack
 
It was OEM rack luckily so local Toyota shop was very willing to work with me.

Also, I thought I had more pics, but I'm getting closer on finishing up the mock up for my sliders. Built the first one from scrap around the shop just to make sure I liked it before spending a lot of time and nice metal. I'll try to upload soMe this evening. I'm afraid this tubing is too big but works for getting general idea.
 
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ive been like a little kid on christmas waiting for this to arrive.... and then i find out I have to go out of town for work. So another slow down. this will be an antagonizing slow build but front and rear bumpers will be done eventually along with the sliders.

10 sheets of 3/16. always good to have extra on the rack. i forgot how heavy this stuff is.

 
I picked these up for free today. Debating making them a nice road tire for running around. I think it's too much wheel for my liking though. Any opinions? (I would obviously put bigger tires on to make it fill the wheel wells up some
 
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What he said! ^^^

Great deal man,

I'll be sharing my own first LC story shortly....
 
I actually think the 16" 100 wheels look better than anything else.
 

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