2000 Land Cruiser transmission woes

[Dirt J]

If want to get super nerdy (and since you are on this thread, you do), we can include our part #s and S/N too. Name plate is on p/s right above the pan by the tcase front output.

I believe the part # changed over the 2000 MY. Mine is 35000-60840.

4/2000 build date and 317k miles with no known transmission work (last 100k). Shifts great! 10 hr round trip at 75 mph to COTR last month. Daily driver.

 

[BnvS]

If want to get super nerdy (and since you are on this thread, you do), we can include our part #s and S/N too. Name plate is on p/s right above the pan by the tcase front output.

I believe the part # changed over the 2000 MY. Mine is 35000-60840.

4/2000 build date and 317k miles with no known transmission work (last 100k). Shifts great! 10 hr round trip at 75 mph to COTR last month. Daily driver.

View attachment 3476824

I did not know the transmissions have a identification plate on them.. I'll look mine up and post it... You said on the Passenger side...above the Transfer case above the Pan.. i'll have the check this out.. thanks for letting us know.

 

[JazzTX]

I agree that $5k is steep for this transmission, warranty or not, unless they really rebuilt it to like new condition, using Toyota parts. And then I'd have to think about it.

What specifically is wrong with it? You can rebuild it yourself in a couple of weekends, or days if you have all the parts ready.

IMHO, it's no worse than any other A343F. What kills them is fluid maintenance.

If you rebuild it, plan on at least $1500.

I recently dropped the transmission pan on my 2000 LX470 since I was feeling overdrive was not running/sounding the best. I’d hoped not to have found any metal shaving but below is what I found.

You mentioned being able to rebuild. $1500 sounds like a nice price if the other cost is my time. Any information you could provide on resources I could use to rebuild? Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[Dirt J]

@JazzTX What's your mileage?

Can you share the serial # of your transmission? It's on the side on a blue label if I recall.

 

[Malleus]

I recently dropped the transmission pan on my 2000 LX470 since I was feeling overdrive was not running/sounding the best. I’d hoped not to have found any metal shaving but below is what I found.

You mentioned being able to rebuild. $1500 sounds like a nice price if the other cost is my time. Any information you could provide on resources I could use to rebuild? Thanks in advance for any help.

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You're looking at the overhaul kit, 04352-60021, a replacement torque converter, 12 quarts of transmission fluid, 2 gallons of kerosene, 200 nitrile gloves, 6 rolls of paper towels, 38 (one box) quart ziploc freezer bags (these protect your parts while you're waiting to reassemble, don't cheap out and use sandwich bags), and a tray (I bought my wife a new one, because the one I used was the Christmas tree pan). The tray is to catch all the ATF you didn't get out of the case while you're tearing it down. It also makes a very nice assembly platform.

This will work:

I used the plastic Caecade pods tubs when they were empty, to store parts in; worked very well (snap top lids and everything). And they were very cheap.

You'll also need a minimum 2' x 4' bench to work on (I had a worktable that size, and 34" tall, I built for another job, so I used that - you do not want this on your everyday workbench). It needs to be able to support your weight. The transmission doesn't weigh that much, but you'll need it to push against for some steps.

A mortar tub (or two) is also handy to have:

 

[Malleus]

@JazzTX
You also have to have in hand a paper copy of RM998U, Toyota Repair Manual, Automatic Transmission (2002). You cannot do this job without it. I have not found a digital copy anywhere. Sonnax has them for transmission shops, but you have to have a subscription, and I'd guess you don't want to blow cash on that. The general purpose repair manual, RM745U, is in the Resources section, and you'll need a copy of that to get the unit out of the truck, and for a couple of other things.

Based on what's in your pan, I'd guess you're missing a few plates, as well as the friction clutches. These are not included in the rebuild/overhaul kit, so you have to buy them separately. Unfortunately, you won't know what you need until you tear the unit down. The good news is that if your transmission was working, just not well, your bearings and drums are probably OK, as is your brake band.

You need these two items, which are not in the repair manual as "you need to replace these because you ruined them getting them out" parts:

They go together. You have to remove the shaft to replace the two seals on either end of the shaft. The seals are in the overhaul kit; the "spacer" and pin are not. PITA

You will also need a couple of special tools.
a) I have a transmission case holding fixture, designed to be clamped into a bench vise, but you can set the case, tail down, on a plastic milk crate, if you want to. It'll be really low, but it'll also be really cheap.
b) you need a pressing tool, to disassemble the clutch subassemblies. You will damage the spring retainers if you use a press. I did. You can either buy the Snapress (I did, it was worth the money) or make your own tools (a piece of threaded rod and flat bars of various sizes will work).

These things are alternately scare as hen's teeth and all over like weeds. I think it depends on the phases of the moon. Or something. You can get a better price than this. DO NOT buy this:

Total garbage.
c) the longest external (expanding) snap ring pliers you can find (at least 9", 12" would be better) - you need the kind with bladed ends, not pins

I made do with two pairs of these; it was frustrating.
d) a 12 inch flat head screwdriver (2 would be better, but I made do with one and a couple of 8 inch long 1/4" others).

I highly recommend you email Dave Stedman and get your parts from him. You'll get genuine Toyota parts at a good price and Dave can get what most everyone else cannot. You will need to have all your stuff in one sock, prior to giving him the order.

 

[Malleus]

This is the holding fixture I have (it's OK, but just OK, and you need a really big bench vise to use it):

The really good one is the Kent Moore model:

You do not want to use the GM types:

But, like I said, you can get by with a milk crate. Just realize that whatever you use, the case will be on it for a couple of weeks, while you're waiting for parts.

 

[Malleus]

@JazzTX
If all that didn't scare you off, PM me. I have my notes from when I did this recently, I'd be glad to share. When I get them rewritten in a presentable fashion, I intend to post them here, for general knowledge, and use, but they really aren't usable without explanation right now.

Ballpark numbers for budgeting:
$650 for the overhaul kit
$350 for the torque converter
$25 each for steels (I'd bet you need at least 3)
$125 for ATF (Summit has the best prices right now) - you need Mobil Multi-Vehicle ATF (126505-1)
$200 for tools (or more if you're like me)
+ whatever consumables cost in Austin.

So, if you get a quote from a transmission shop for less than $4000, something is very wrong. They are either using crap parts, or reusing your crap parts, or not replacing things at all. $2500 for a rebuilt transmission is a steal, if it's rebuilt by a Toyota approved rebuilder. If it's not a Toyota approved rebuilder, I wouldn't trust it. I had a service adviser at Lexus tell me Toyota is 250 rebuilt automatic transmissions behind (on order) for trucks right now (Tundras, Sequoias, etc, not Land Cruisers), with no idea when they are going to be delivered.

This is a job that is definitely doable for even a novice, well, maybe a little above novice, but...as long as you can read, and are organized and clean, you can do this job. Much easier to approach than an engine build, IMHO, because you know at every step whether you've done everything correctly, before you go to the next step. An automatic transmission is really several transmissions, packed into one case, so when you tear down and rebuild, you're doing one of each at a time (the exception is the first and reverse gear set, which is a combo unit, and the easiest).

For some perspective:
A343F Transmission teardown
A343F transmission assembly

 

[JazzTX]

@Malleus
First off. Thanks for the prompt replies and details included. Above and beyond what I expected. I’ve been a long time listener and first time caller so didn’t know what to expect. MUD members are freaking awesome and glad I posted here before heading to any other group.

I’m not running for the hills after reading your posts so I felt good about that. Interestingly enough I kind of felt like stars aligned with your recommendation of contacting Dave for parts. I have a spreadsheet of parts I was going to order from him after a getting some Japan 4x4 parts a while ago. He’s exceptionally prompt and super nice.

I’ll take a deeper dive into the parts and resources required. Specifically the RM998U, Toyota Repair Manual, Automatic Transmission (2002). I have a few friends with repair shops and maybe I can get it through one of their contacts at a trans shop. If I do get lucky, I will be sure to send you a copy for records and to share as needed.

Once I get a gauge of total cost, opting for bench vise vs carton etc., I’ll see which direction I want to go. I can’t tell you how grateful I am for the info shared (I was up for about 2 hours yesterday reading through and doing quick searches for parts).

 

[nissanh]

After the rebuild and before you start the engine, make sure to install an inline transmission filter after the external cooler to catch any derbies left in the tubing. After about 300 miles, install another. The shop I used in San Antonio is called Mr. Transmissions and they are doing all city and police vehicles as I saw a few on their lot. They cleaned all tubing's by running some solvents but still there were tiny pieces so I installed an inline filter. the manager was very knowledgeable of these autos and gave me all options with a proper price breakdown and warranties. Also not many trans shops will rebuild foreign transmissions. None of my local shops wanted to take the job.

 

[JazzTX]

After the rebuild and before you start the engine, make sure to install an inline transmission filter after the external cooler to catch any derbies left in the tubing. After about 300 miles, install another. The shop I used in San Antonio is called Mr. Transmissions and they are doing all city and police vehicles as I saw a few on their lot. They cleaned all tubing's by running some solvents but still there were tiny pieces so I installed an inline filter. the manager was very knowledgeable of these autos and gave me all options with a proper price breakdown and warranties. Also not many trans shops will rebuild foreign transmissions. None of my local shops wanted to take the job.

Thanks for the advice. As for Mr Transmission, are you aware if the parts they sourced were oem? Seems like a great deal at ~$4k given what has been shared in this thread. Just trying to get all the information you might have given your experience with them. They are just down the highway from me as well so a viable options to consider vs a self rebuild which I’m still figuring out if time + cost of materials will work given my situation.

 

[Malleus]

IME, no one except an authorized Toyota remanufacturer is going to use Toyota parts. Even the Australian transmission parts suppliers are selling Chinese parts.

That's why I said I wouldn't trust them. You pay the same prices for a rebuilt transmission with Chinese parts as you do with Toyota parts.

The filter isn't a bad idea. The reason I include two gallons of kerosene and not a quart (which is a gracious plenty for cleaning parts) is that I ran about a gallon through the cooler circuit, using a separate fuel pump, before I filled the case. It took the entire gallon to get the crud out, but it ran clean after that. I'd do that again, and maybe put a filter on the return line, but I don't think there's any reason to leave it in place during operation.

I will add that I also replaced all the hoses, which are a potential dirt trap, and possibly why I was confident the system was clean.

This is another reason to do this job yourself. There are so many additional parts, like the hoses and their clamps, that a commercial shop isn't going to replace. They are all still available, except the line from the cooler circuit hardline to the radiator. I had Dave send me a piece a ATF rated hose from some auto parts store in Japan. It cost me about $3. It's the only hose that isn't formed.

One last thought, I had to remove the passenger side CAT, because I couldn't get a wrench on the cooler return line fitting otherwise. I now have the Toyota crowsfoot (09017-1C130, $72.21), which is made just for 17-mm transmission and power steering fittings, so I don't have to resort to removing parts I don't really need to remove, anymore. Dave came through on that one, too.

 

[awesomeissquid]

The single hose that is not NLA (radiator back to transmission) can be swapped with the later model years one. The later model years use a similar hose (same diameters and length) and it just has a different mounting bracket. You can just order that hose and use it with your existing clamp. I believe I needed to transfer the hose sleeve over from the old hose to the new one.