200 Series Tire and Wheel Size Database (3 Viewers)

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I plan on running 17 inch wheels and I’m still trying to figure out what is the best off set for a 200 Land Cruiser with a 2.5 to 3 inch lift. I DO NOT want to run wheel spacers and to be honest after 122 pages I‘m lost !! I’m thinking a 33 inch tire will be fine for my truck

Any Clarity would be appreciated!
 
I plan on running 17 inch wheels and I’m still trying to figure out what is the best off set for a 200 Land Cruiser with a 2.5 to 3 inch lift. I DO NOT want to run wheel spacers and to be honest after 122 pages I‘m lost !! I’m thinking a 33 inch tire will be fine for my truck

Any Clarity would be appreciated!

Lift doesn’t matter. 285/70/17 will bolt on stock offset rock warriors. Move to between 40mm and 25mm offset and a 285/75/17 is also an easy fit.
 
In the same boat, have my new 17 inch wheels that say: 0 offset (Zero) so to run 285/75/17 I’ll need spacers, at least 1 inch?
 
In the same boat, have my new 17 inch wheels that say: 0 offset (Zero) so to run 285/75/17 I’ll need spacers, at least 1 inch?
No. Spacers decrease offset, and 0 offset is already pretty extreme offset from stock. A 1" spacer would put you at -24ET.

The sweet spot for clearing tires is +25 to +50 with that size tire. So you are already 1" out from that with a 0 ET
 
Posted on a different thread but will post this in database thread for everyone's reference.

Toyo RT Trail 295/70r18
Normal height:
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Side view:

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Spare just fits in spare location like a glove. Was waiting for black ET lugs to come in but had to use chrome ones temporarily. Have since changed them out.

Zero rubbing after mud flap removal and plastic trim and bracket bend on front-rear and fenderwell liner pushed forward on front-front.
 
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Hey everyone in reading, just a random thought about tyre pressure and chassis response. Sorry if its out of topic.

Say our vehicle has a total weight of 2600kg. With the front axle at 1450kg and 1150kg at the rear axle.

Now the recommended tire pressure for the stock 265/55/R20 is 230kpa for both front & rear on the side sticker.

So I was thinking, based on ratio, would lowering the rear tyres to 190kpa help balance the chassis and reduce its 'up, down' or rocking 'front and back' movement that higher center-of-gravity cars like the LC are often associated with?
 
Shopping for a set of wheels in 18x9 +25 and looking to pair them with the Wildpeaks 285/65/18. Truck is a 2018 LX 100% stock. Some say this setup may rub and some say they don't. Is anyone running this setup on their stock LX or LC 200? I am aware the LC may rub due to the KDSS.
 
Shopping for a set of wheels in 18x9 +25 and looking to pair them with the Wildpeaks 285/65/18. Truck is a 2018 LX 100% stock. Some say this setup may rub and some say they don't. Is anyone running this setup on their stock LX or LC 200? I am aware the LC may rub due to the KDSS.
This is what I have on my LC, no rubbing anywhere on KDSS or elsewhere.
 
Shopping for a set of wheels in 18x9 +25 and looking to pair them with the Wildpeaks 285/65/18. Truck is a 2018 LX 100% stock. Some say this setup may rub and some say they don't. Is anyone running this setup on their stock LX or LC 200? I am aware the LC may rub due to the KDSS.

You’ll be fine. May need to remove or massage front mud flap.
 
Maybe I am an idiot, or it's not showing the link on my computer, but where is "the database"? There's no link in the first post other than referencing another member, I am up to page 4 reading where everyone is providing input, there is a link that is 100 only. What am I missing?
 
What 18” tire out there is 32.8” (or very close to it)? Need a spare to fit on 18” oems if poss. as the icons on pre 2016 LCs require some sort of cutting and manipulating the chain holder pc. to fit as spare - and I don’t want to get into all that if at all possible.
 
What 18” tire out there is 32.8” (or very close to it)? Need a spare to fit on 18” oems if poss. as the icons on pre 2016 LCs require some sort of cutting and manipulating the chain holder pc. to fit as spare - and I don’t want to get into all that if at all possible.
It’s a 30 second fix with a cutting tool of your choice, and your truck might already have the shorter chain guide. It took you longer to formulate this post than to make the cut. Finding a 5th non matching tire seems like a long way around solving this problem.
Not to mention if you are on a road trip with a full cab and get a flat, where are you going to put the Icon after you change the spare?

But if you want to go that route,


looks like 286/65R18 is closest.
 
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It’s a 30 second fix with a cutting tool of your choice, and your truck might already have the shorter chain guide. It took you longer to formulate this post than to make the cut. Finding a 5th non matching tire seems like a long way around solving this problem.
Not to mention if you are on a road trip with a full cab and get a flat, where are you going to put the Icon after you change the spare?

But if you want to go that route,


looks like 286/65R18 is closest.
Thanks man. Much appreciate it. So let’s say I put the oem wheel and tire size back on to sell 30 years from now - does the oem wheel no longer properly secure underneath after that cut?
 
Thanks man. Much appreciate it. So let’s say I put the oem wheel and tire size back on to sell 30 years from now - does the oem wheel no longer properly secure underneath after that cut?
The later model 200s have a different hoist that is shorter. You can replace the old part number with the new part number and not have to worry about finding a spare to suit. Probably costs less than having 285/65r18 mounted and nullifies most of the “what if” scenarios.
 
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Thanks man. Much appreciate it. So let’s say I put the oem wheel and tire size back on to sell 30 years from now - does the oem wheel no longer properly secure underneath after that cut?
The modification has 0 effect on hanging the OEM wheel on the hanger.
 
Thanks man. Much appreciate it. So let’s say I put the oem wheel and tire size back on to sell 30 years from now - does the oem wheel no longer properly secure underneath after that cut?
Heres a picture of what you have to do. A few of the early threads talk about removing links, none of that is necessary. Just cut the tube like this picture, then cut it perpendicular and pull the excess tube off. If you want to be real careful, it takes about 5 min to take the hoist off. If yours is a few years old, it’s a good time to lube and rust protect it anyways. Also, there is no “year cutoff” that I’m aware of, just some hoists have a longer tube and some have a shorter, so you can check yours to see if it will work anyways.

My hoist needed cleaning up, so I took it off and did the cut on my bench vice with a sawzall, but it is not thick metal, so almost any metal cutting blade will take care of it.

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