200 Series Tire and Wheel Size Database (5 Viewers)

[cphibs]

Lift has nothing to do with fitting a tire. Think about it, the suspension compresses during normal use, all the way up to the bumpstops. Whether you have a lift or not, your fully compressed suspension puts the tire in the exact same spot (unless you've exteneded your bumpstops, which is not a lift).

Whatever mods necessary to fit a given tire size on stock suspension will also be necessary with a lift. LIFT DOES NOT MATTER, but wheel offset, tire size (width) is very important.

And yes, there are some people running 35's with the 200LC. Quite a few more run 35's with LX570 (it's easier to do with a Lexus). In either case, minor mods to the front wheel well liner and mudflap removal (bending of the mudflap bracket) will likely be necessary. With a Land Cruiser, mods to the KDSS (relocation brackets) will likely be necessary as well. And with a full 35, usually there is still some rubbing at the KDSS bar, but minor enough to be acceptable to folks who like big tires The recipe for success with a LC tends to be a narrower tire, and lower wheel offset (wheel spacer). Someone more knowledgeable than me can fill in the details. I went the easy route and got a Lexus.

I want to make sure I’m reading this correctly as I’m switching up my wheels and looking to up tire size slightly.

2011 lx 570 (stock height/ no sensor lift)
Currently running 285/55/20 with stock +60mm Lexus wheels
I have a set of TRD RWs +50mm offset that I’m looking to add rubber to. I know the 285/70/17 will fit with no modifications needed. Is it safe to assume a 285/75/17 would fit with no issues? TIA

 

[Heckraiser]

Well it's not exactly "no modification" but definitely "no lift." You may have to move the front plastic fender liner forward a bit and remove the front mudflaps. Possibly bend the tabs the mudflaps attach to. I would call it "minor plastic mods." No modification required in the rear though.

I never ran 34's so I'm not sure what's really necessary for that size. I went straight to 35's.

 

[lx200inAR]

I want to make sure I’m reading this correctly as I’m switching up my wheels and looking to up tire size slightly.

2011 lx 570 (stock height/ no sensor lift)
Currently running 285/55/20 with stock +60mm Lexus wheels
I have a set of TRD RWs +50mm offset that I’m looking to add rubber to. I know the 285/70/17 will fit with no modifications needed. Is it safe to assume a 285/75/17 would fit with no issues? TIA

I run LT285/75R17 on RWs and have no issues with metal contact, but did have to move a lot of plastic.

 

[open country]

Have only driven home from discount tire so far… it’s noticeable that there are all terrain tires but it doesn’t bother me one bit. Will post more feedback in the next few days

Setup looks great. Stock suspension assuming? And those are 18x9 +25, correct?

 

[TN200]

Setup looks great. Stock suspension assuming? And those are 18x9 +25, correct?

Correct! Stock suspension with the OEM spacer up front. and wheel specs are also correct.

Minimal amounts of rubbing at first but heat gun was able to take care of that

 

[HoffCruiser]

Anyone running the ICON Rebound Pros? If so, got any pics?

 

[Drift Monkey]

A 35x10.5 is an easy fit regardless of suspension if you get the wheel offset correct. Ideally between +30 to +45 offset. +25 can work but might result in some more rubbing.

So you're saying no sensor lift, 35x10.5R17 on +35s will fit with no modifications (or maybe the usual light massaging at most?). The downside I'm guessing is the spare likely won't fit under.

 

[Heckraiser]

So you're saying no sensor lift, 35x10.5R17 on +35s will fit with no modifications (or maybe the usual light massaging at most?). The downside I'm guessing is the spare likely won't fit under.

I ran 285/75r18 (35x11) on stock tundra wheels with a 1" spacer (which works out to about +35 offset) and I still had to follow most of the steps in the "full fat 35's" thread. Move front fender liner forward by drilling new holes in the plastic and re-attaching further forward, heat-gunning fender liner in a couple spots, removing front mud flaps, bending mud-flap mounting tab. I wheel, so these mods were tested with the suspension fully twisted up and dynamic and it worked well. Went to 35x12.5 wide tires on +25 wheels and got a little more plastic rubbing in dynamic situations, but left everything the way it was. The wider tire rubbed a little bit on the back of the front fender liner.

It's also good to note that saying "XYZ setup will clear or wont clear" also depends on your alignment. Assuming stock suspension arms, an alignment with more caster dialed in will have more clearance at the mudflap and body mount, but may require more adjustment of the plastics at the front of the wheel well.

 

[Drift Monkey]

I ran 285/75r18 (35x11) on stock tundra wheels with a 1" spacer (which works out to about +35 offset) and I still had to follow most of the steps in the "full fat 35's" thread. Move front fender liner forward by drilling new holes in the plastic and re-attaching further forward, heat-gunning fender liner in a couple spots, removing front mud flaps, bending mud-flap mounting tab. I wheel, so these mods were tested with the suspension fully twisted up and dynamic and it worked well. Went to 35x12.5 wide tires on +25 wheels and got a little more plastic rubbing in dynamic situations, but left everything the way it was. The wider tire rubbed a little bit on the back of the front fender liner.

It's also good to note that saying "XYZ setup will clear or wont clear" also depends on your alignment. Assuming stock suspension arms, an alignment with more caster dialed in will have more clearance at the mudflap and body mount, but may require more adjustment of the plastics at the front of the wheel well.

Thanks for the input! On my old 4th gen I had to employ some tricks to make my “full fat” 35x12.5s to fit - Superpro LCAS with offset bushings and maxing the bolts for caster gave a decent bit of clearance, as did setting the adjustable UCAs for LESS strut angle and thus LESS caster. The big lesson learned for me was - adjusting for more caster via the UCA actually results in moving the wire back towards the firewall/body mount instead of away - so that caster comes at a cost. I personably could cycle that 4R’s suspension fully front and rear (I also wheel) but I didn’t have to do any chopping of any body plastics/metals (a front bumper solved alot of those problems, but I’ll probably avoid it on this platform, at least for now) but I did have a bmc.

All this to say I’d like to keep my (near future) LX much simpler. My 4R was nicely built, but now I have my 80 series with lockers/37s to scratch the heavier wheeling itch - but I already know I won’t be able to leave well enough alone. The good news is, with a LX, AHC makes my build path much simpler, at least to start. Moving to +35 17s would be my first move, so I’m just researching which tires will actually fit with, at most, the normal compliment of “moving the liner” style tricks in ‘normal’ mode (with or without a sensor lift and/or future spacer style LT mods).

 

[TeCKis300]

Thanks for the input! On my old 4th gen I had to employ some tricks to make my “full fat” 35x12.5s to fit - Superpro LCAS with offset bushings and maxing the bolts for caster gave a decent bit of clearance, as did setting the adjustable UCAs for LESS strut angle and thus LESS caster. The big lesson learned for me was - adjusting for more caster via the UCA actually results in moving the wire back towards the firewall/body mount instead of away - so that caster comes at a cost. I personably could cycle that 4R’s suspension fully front and rear (I also wheel) but I didn’t have to do any chopping of any body plastics/metals (a front bumper solved alot of those problems, but I’ll probably avoid it on this platform, at least for now) but I did have a bmc.

All this to say I’d like to keep my (near future) LX much simpler. My 4R was nicely built, but now I have my 80 series with lockers/37s to scratch the heavier wheeling itch - but I already know I won’t be able to leave well enough alone. The good news is, with a LX, AHC makes my build path much simpler, at least to start. Moving to +35 17s would be my first move, so I’m just researching which tires will actually fit with, at most, the normal compliment of “moving the liner” style tricks in ‘normal’ mode (with or without a sensor lift and/or future spacer style LT mods).

Second what @Heckraiser said.

Ayup. Some of the common upgrades, like +25 offsets, can actually make things harder to fit. To your point, UCAs can be counter productive as they pull the tire towards the firewall/bodymount. The plastics forward of the wheel well at the bumper are easy to pin forward 1". Heck, it's easy to pin forward 2" for 37s even.

With the right recipe and offsets, 35x10.5s can be fitted in a weekend. Don't forget gearing and brake considerations.

The largest spare diameter is ~34.4". Which makes most 35x10.5R17s not fit. Perhaps it could be stuffed in there uninflated and with a rachet strap?

 

[Drift Monkey]

Second what @Heckraiser said.

Ayup. Some of the common upgrades, like +25 offsets, can actually make things harder to fit. To your point, UCAs can be counter productive as they pull the tire towards the firewall/bodymount. The plastics forward of the wheel well at the bumper are easy to pin forward 1". Heck, it's easy to pin forward 2" for 37s even.

With the right recipe and offsets, 35x10.5s can be fitted in a weekend. Don't forget gearing and brake considerations.

The largest spare diameter is ~34.4". Which makes most 35x10.5R17s not fit. Perhaps it could be stuffed in there uninflated and with a rachet strap?

I’m definitely initiated and have played this game with both the 4R and 80 series to know better than to try to shop without consulting the offset calculator . It’s the same with the 120/150 series (and even the 80) platform - people love the popular -38 (and beyond ) offset but when it comes to articulation they just FAR from ideal.

I did all pinning forward pre-front bumper on the 4R so I agree it’s no sweat - I’m plenty versed there - the rear required some persuading of the pinch weld seam but also ended up fitting well enough with LT rear. Just reassign to know there is some more room under the wheel arches with these haha.

I’m not sure about the gearing for the 5.7 but I’m assuming 4.56 and 4.88 are in play given that’s what I compared when retesting thr 4.7 in the 4R. That will probably have to wait a bit down the line as well…time to bust out the old gear ratio calculator again! For brakes I’m assuming doing the 2016+ bits when the time comes to replace that stuff?

Good info on the spare here - I had a bumper/carrier on the 4R and now an interior carrier on the 80 (which I actually prefer) but for the 200 I’m looking to preserve as much interior/cargo area as possible as it will be more of the family people mover most of the time. To that end - maybe the more rational/practical move is to try 285/75R17 instead and limit it to around 34.1 since I’m allegedly trying to keep it simple. Is that size about the same amount of work to make fit correctly?

Anyway, I appreciate the response! I’ve been lurking your 570 threads for a bit during my search for a LX/200, I think you’ve sold me on trying a AHC centric build.

 

[Drift Monkey]

The largest spare diameter is ~34.4". Which makes most 35x10.5R17s not fit. Perhaps it could be stuffed in there uninflated and with a rachet strap?

Another thought is maybe I can get away with a smaller spare? If it’s the same amount of work to massage for clearance, you may be talking me into “full fat” 35s…

 

[TeCKis300]

Another thought is maybe I can get away with a smaller spare? If it’s the same amount of work to massage for clearance, you may be talking me into “full fat” 35s…

Yup, I run a smaller spare. 'Spare' in this case doesn't mean it can't get down and get dirty as it's still a full performance tire. The robust drivetrain won't care about anything within ~3% rolling difference.

Work for full fat is about the same. Narrows will save clearancing against the UCA, fender lip tabs, and some less work against the BMC.

Find more details in the links in my signature.

 

[open country]

I think for the sake of keeping this a resourceful (and searchable) databse for folks, we can distinguish between a size being "an easy fit" versus "can fit in a weekend" with fender trimming, plastic molding, caster adjustment, body mount chop, etc. Folks have different definitions of "fit" and comfortability/skill with things like trimming, body mount chop, and caster adjustments.

Sounds like @Heckraiser was close to fitting a 35x10.50 on "stock" suspension, but I still have not seen anyone with the setup of the original question, let alone without highly specific trimming, molding, offset, etc. Certainly not enough to characterize it as an easy setup.

 

[Heckraiser]

All of the setups we've been discussing are stock suspension. We're talking about moving plastic parts around (not even cutting anything) to fit 35's

 

[lx200inAR]

I think for the sake of keeping this a resourceful (and searchable) databse for folks, we can distinguish between a size being "an easy fit" versus "can fit in a weekend" with fender trimming, plastic molding, caster adjustment, body mount chop, etc. Folks have different definitions of "fit" and comfortability/skill with things like trimming, body mount chop, and caster adjustments.

Sounds like @Heckraiser was close to fitting a 35x10.50 on "stock" suspension, but I still have not seen anyone with the setup of the original question, let alone without highly specific trimming, molding, offset, etc. Certainly not enough to characterize it as an easy setup.

If you want to fit without touching anything, you have to stay smaller than 33". And even a 33 probably requires the right offset wheel to not have any rubbing.

 

[open country]

All of the setups we've been discussing are stock suspension. We're talking about moving plastic parts around (not even cutting anything) to fit 35's

I understand, just offering a different perspective that can hopefully help more members. "Fits no problem" is not the same as drilling, using heat gun, bending, removing mud flaps, etc. and we can be upfront about that when advising people on their fitment questions.

 

[JohnPW]

I think for the sake of keeping this a resourceful (and searchable) databse for folks, we can distinguish between a size being "an easy fit" versus "can fit in a weekend" with fender trimming, plastic molding, caster adjustment, body mount chop, etc. Folks have different definitions of "fit" and comfortability/skill with things like trimming, body mount chop, and caster adjustments.

Sounds like @Heckraiser was close to fitting a 35x10.50 on "stock" suspension, but I still have not seen anyone with the setup of the original question, let alone without highly specific trimming, molding, offset, etc. Certainly not enough to characterize it as an easy setup.

It seems 275/70r18 or 285/65r18 are the largest tires with stock wheels and stock suspension that fit without having to do anything. I think?

 

[Humboldt]

Method 701 18x9 +25 offset BFG KO3 285/70R18. 3" King / OME 2723 lift. No rubbing.

 

[mmthskibum]

OZ Rally Raid NC 18x8.5 +30 offset
Michelin Defender LTX M/S2 295/70R18

Front mudflaps removed and just need to push the front liner forward a little bit