200,000 mile maintenance items

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chriscosta416

chriscosta416

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Jan 13, 2019
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Hi all,

I am just about to hit 195k in my 2011 LX570 and want to prepare for 200k and start gathering parts.

I bought the truck last year in March with 160k miles. I drive it daily to work and trips

Since then I have done the following between 160k-170k

- New Radiator, WP, hoses, pulleys, belt, spark plugs
- New PCV valve and hoses
- Trans drain and fill
- Diff and T-case fluids
- Brake pads and rotors
- All fluids
- All filters
- Starter
- New AHC globes and fluid

All items above are preventive maintenance.

I am doing new inner outer tie rods tonight and at 200k I plan to do


- Diff and tcase fluids again
- Coolant flush again?
- Heater Ts
- Highly debating on alternator but planning not to touch it for now

Anything else I should plan for or do?
 
Last edited:
I just read through it,

I do see people’s point on not touching the transmission if it’s never been serviced due to clutch pack debris keeping everything in place.

im a big fan or drain and fill, and my LX has had transmission fluid changes prior according to the records.

I dropped the pan replaced the filter/strainer and put in new fluid.

A few months later doing another drain and fill.

I think drain and fills over time are better than flushing. But I’m not a mechanic
 
Also I replaced both inner and outer tie rods, boots and hardware last night.

Passenger side outer tie rod was seized and I had excessive play on the outer tie rod.

Inner and the other out tie rod had normal play I’d expect for 195k miles.
 
Starter replaced yet? That’s a random failure that would leave you stranded.
 
I'm curious about this as well, but for an LC, but do the engine/trans mounts need replacing? I've got a "loose" feeling and overall shimmy over certain road conditions, so curious about various mounts, including body. Is it common to need replacing? I assumed their fairly solid
 
onelittlestar said:
I'm curious about this as well, but for an LC, but do the engine/trans mounts need replacing? I've got a "loose" feeling and overall shimmy over certain road conditions, so curious about various mounts, including body. Is it common to need replacing? I assumed their fairly solid
Click to expand...
Motor mounts on mine still feel good, loose feeling could be many things
 
you have a pretty good list. Maybe the following:
* cabin air filter
* grease the zirks on your drive shafts and ujoints
* check your front ball joints. Sometimes they're fine forever. Sometimes they need love
* flush your power steering fluid a couple times

If the alternator is not having issues I would maybe just make sure its clean and leave it alone. Personally I would trust OEM Japanese installed alternator on these trucks more than a new replacement that may or may not have been made in Japan.
 
When you do the heater tees, replace the hoses too. They come as a pre-assembled set when ordered from Toyota. Mine blew when I was on Hell's Gate. Luckily, there were some smart guys with me that helped me use the rear heater hoses to bypass and keep the coolant flowing up front. I had no read heat but it was October in Moab so I wasn't concerned.
 
NKP Garage said:
you have a pretty good list. Maybe the following:
* cabin air filter
* grease the zirks on your drive shafts and ujoints
* check your front ball joints. Sometimes they're fine forever. Sometimes they need love
* flush your power steering fluid a couple times

If the alternator is not having issues I would maybe just make sure its clean and leave it alone. Personally I would trust OEM Japanese installed alternator on these trucks more than a new replacement that may or may not have been made in Japan.
Click to expand...
Good call on checking the ball joints,


Air filters, zirks and power steering fluid are done as well I check on those every 5k miles.


I just started getting clicking on my front Driver side when I turn the wheel at full lock so I need to check if something came loose or if its my CV.

If it is I wonder if I damaged it going up a hill climb and then turning hard driver side as I was existing, center diff locked in L with crawl control on.. :(
 
I came here for the same question. Good info here. I add some too

1. Lower control arms assembly with bushings
2. The rear control arm bushings look tired. Could replace
3. Might swap bump stops but that is more of a performance upgrade
4. Adjust parking brakes both handle and at the drum if needed.
5. Valve cover…mine leaks a little
6. Check for valley plate coolant leak
7. Check cam tower leak
8. Check timing chain tensioner on start up. Listen for sound. Something monitor
9. Check long term fuel trims. Mine are a bit high which indicates a vacuum leak I need to track down
10. I calibrated my temp in the HVAC. Mine seemed off
11. Check/clean mass air flow sensor.
12. Struts for hood and rear lift gate
13. Battery
14. Radiator cap
15. Gas cap
16.
 
If you have time and want more stuff to do, check:

spark plug oil seals
Pcv valve

Replace:
MAF sensor
Air/fuel, o2 sensors?

Solid start even if you do none of the stuff in this post.
 
Last edited:
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