200,000 mile maintenance items (1 Viewer)

[chriscosta416]

Hi all,

I am just about to hit 195k in my 2011 LX570 and want to prepare for 200k and start gathering parts.

I bought the truck last year in March with 160k miles. I drive it daily to work and trips

Since then I have done the following between 160k-170k

- New Radiator, WP, hoses, pulleys, belt, spark plugs
- New PCV valve and hoses
- Trans drain and fill
- Diff and T-case fluids
- Brake pads and rotors
- All fluids
- All filters
- Starter
- New AHC globes and fluid

All items above are preventive maintenance.

I am doing new inner outer tie rods tonight and at 200k I plan to do


- Diff and tcase fluids again
- Coolant flush again?
- Heater Ts
- Highly debating on alternator but planning not to touch it for now

Anything else I should plan for or do?

 

[BVE]

Even though it sucks, the alternator would be good to change out since it looks like you are baselining the rig.

 

[daneo]

Any cracks in the sway bar bushings? Body mounts?

Door hinges holding up?

Parking brake pads?

Just tossing out some wear-use items to see if anything sticks.

 

[chriscosta416]

Any cracks in the sway bar bushings? Body mounts?

Door hinges holding up?

Parking brake pads?

Just tossing out some wear-use items to see if anything sticks.

those all look good, doing tie rods now

 

[Lou Gill]

WHATEVER YOU DO, DO NOT OVER MAINTAIN THIS LEXUS LX 570! See my post,”I committed today”

 

[chriscosta416]

I just read through it,

I do see people’s point on not touching the transmission if it’s never been serviced due to clutch pack debris keeping everything in place.

im a big fan or drain and fill, and my LX has had transmission fluid changes prior according to the records.

I dropped the pan replaced the filter/strainer and put in new fluid.

A few months later doing another drain and fill.

I think drain and fills over time are better than flushing. But I’m not a mechanic

 

[chriscosta416]

Also I replaced both inner and outer tie rods, boots and hardware last night.

Passenger side outer tie rod was seized and I had excessive play on the outer tie rod.

Inner and the other out tie rod had normal play I’d expect for 195k miles.

 

[tacoduck]

Starter replaced yet? That’s a random failure that would leave you stranded.

 

[chriscosta416]

Starter replaced yet? That’s a random failure that would leave you stranded.

Yessir that was done

 

[chriscosta416]

Just got an alignment and one of the cam bolts was pretty much seized, luckily the techs were able to free it after about 2 hours of struggling.


Searching on mud it appears to be quite common so I might adding that to my 200k service

 

[onelittlestar]

I'm curious about this as well, but for an LC, but do the engine/trans mounts need replacing? I've got a "loose" feeling and overall shimmy over certain road conditions, so curious about various mounts, including body. Is it common to need replacing? I assumed their fairly solid

 

[chriscosta416]

I'm curious about this as well, but for an LC, but do the engine/trans mounts need replacing? I've got a "loose" feeling and overall shimmy over certain road conditions, so curious about various mounts, including body. Is it common to need replacing? I assumed their fairly solid

Motor mounts on mine still feel good, loose feeling could be many things

 

[NKP Garage]

you have a pretty good list. Maybe the following:
* cabin air filter
* grease the zirks on your drive shafts and ujoints
* check your front ball joints. Sometimes they're fine forever. Sometimes they need love
* flush your power steering fluid a couple times

If the alternator is not having issues I would maybe just make sure its clean and leave it alone. Personally I would trust OEM Japanese installed alternator on these trucks more than a new replacement that may or may not have been made in Japan.

 

[dubyahard]

When you do the heater tees, replace the hoses too. They come as a pre-assembled set when ordered from Toyota. Mine blew when I was on Hell's Gate. Luckily, there were some smart guys with me that helped me use the rear heater hoses to bypass and keep the coolant flowing up front. I had no read heat but it was October in Moab so I wasn't concerned.

 

[chriscosta416]

you have a pretty good list. Maybe the following:
* cabin air filter
* grease the zirks on your drive shafts and ujoints
* check your front ball joints. Sometimes they're fine forever. Sometimes they need love
* flush your power steering fluid a couple times

If the alternator is not having issues I would maybe just make sure its clean and leave it alone. Personally I would trust OEM Japanese installed alternator on these trucks more than a new replacement that may or may not have been made in Japan.

Good call on checking the ball joints,


Air filters, zirks and power steering fluid are done as well I check on those every 5k miles.


I just started getting clicking on my front Driver side when I turn the wheel at full lock so I need to check if something came loose or if its my CV.

If it is I wonder if I damaged it going up a hill climb and then turning hard driver side as I was existing, center diff locked in L with crawl control on..