rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
Interesting, I usually just call them up.Cruiserteq is cruiser outfitters new website so you cAn actually buy stuff online.
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Interesting, I usually just call them up.Cruiserteq is cruiser outfitters new website so you cAn actually buy stuff online.
Cruiser Teq | Land Cruiser Specialists Powered by Cruiser Outfitters
Interesting, I usually just call them up.
Huh. Had no idea Kurt did that. Probably increase his sales significantly.Cruiserteq is cruiser outfitters new website so you cAn actually buy stuff online.
Cruiser Teq | Land Cruiser Specialists Powered by Cruiser Outfitters
Huh. Had no idea Kurt did that. Probably increase his sales significantly.
Yes, I'm putting a 2.5 pro comp lift and new shocks on it. My understanding is with that small a lift you don't need shims? Guessing I might be wrong there? To be clear I drove it for a couple months when I bought it earlier this year before tearing it down and there was no wobble...that came up due to my question about needing the 2nd stabilizer that was on it. You all convinced me to once again go all in and just replace the entire front end lolIf it were me, I'd just rebuild the whole front end components and be done with it. Call Cruiser outfitters or Valley Hybrids and get the stuff.
I just did, knuckle rebuild, tie rod ends, brakes, rotors, studs, hubs and then just reused my cheap steering stabilizer. you "shouldn't" even need a stabilizer if everything is good and in spec on the front. An OEM steering stabilizer is pretty cheap. Those other parts for the Aisin/Asco and birf clips are dirt cheap so just do that as well. I also upgraded the axle seals to the marlin crawler seals. Replace the wheel bearings as well, just baseline that whole front end and be over with it. Might as well put new lug studs as well. This way you know you don't have to do it again for awhile.
I'd also plan on replacing thosepogo sticksshocks. Bilstein makes a good setup for the FJ40 thats not too expensive.
Are you lifted at all? If so, you probably need axle shims if you don't have them to get your caster back in spec which could be contributing to your death wobble.
Cruiser brothers aka valley hybrids in Stockton, CA, has a great set of steel shims.
Personally, I've never used the SST for the front end. I've always been able to re-use the shims and so far everything is good on all my rebuilds. You will find varying opinions on this, but if you are able to reuse the shims, it's seems it almost always comes out correct.
Heck, thats just basically the front end. You still have the rear to deal with, then the middle, then everything...
There ya go! Thanks or chiming in Kurt. Now that I have another 40 project you will be hearing from me again really soon! I was perusing the site yesterday. It seems very user friendly. I did not seem to have any trouble finding random stuff using the table of contents on the left side. I am sure this will increase your sales. Congratulations on launching the new platform.
We will always have team members there to answer phones in fact we just hired a new person which will transition an existing employee into full time parts sales (phones and email). The new CruiserTeq website is for those late night & weekend orders, etc. Trying to have an option for everyone. We've got a couple gents working in the shop dedicated to adding content and function to the CruiserTeq site. Let me know what you all think of it!
As for the FA7590 knuckle kits. Buzz the shop, they are available very soon and we are taking orders.
Yes, I'm putting a 2.5 pro comp lift and new shocks on it. My understanding is with that small a lift you don't need shims? Guessing I might be wrong there? To be clear I drove it for a couple months when I bought it earlier this year before tearing it down and there was no wobble...that came up due to my question about needing the 2nd stabilizer that was on it. You all convinced me to once again go all in and just replace the entire front end lol
Stock length aftermarket shackles. Oh man, don’t tell me more parts to rebuild!! Assume changing u-joints later isn’t a difficult dealAre you putting longer shackles on as well or stock height? You might be fine with stock height shackles. Factory caster spec is +1 degrees. Some things to look for would be vibration and wandering. Its possible you might get vibration anyways from your driveshaft if your u-joints are older. Now with a lift you are changing the angle at which they are running, and if they are old and have wear patterns, a new spot will make noise.
Welcome to the rabbit hole
I wouldn’t bother swapping side to side. It doesn’t seem worth the effort to force them off the axle shafts and mount them to the opposite one. If you had full time 4WD then I suppose there could be a benefit... but I’ve never known anyone to do it.Do you guys think it's necessary or worth swapping the birfs side to side? From what I'm reading you can clicks when they're worn but I didn't have any of that when I was driving it.