2 steering stabilizers? (1 Viewer)

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lmajor32

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From what I’ve read there is only one steering stabilizer on a 70 FJ40. Looks like maybe another one was installed by PO from a bracket on the tie rod to the driver side axle. Kinda hard to see the whole thing in the pic but you can get an idea. I’m replacing and/or rebuilding all of the steering so should I just omit this one on the rebuild? Was just planning to use a basic Monroe magnum SC2916 stabilizer from reading posts on here.
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Omit the double. If you want to do one go with the single.

I haven’t had one on my rig since I rebuilt it.
 
Where does wobble typically come from or is combo of places? I’m doing new TRE’s, rebuilding drag link and center link with a new stabilizer. My steering box seems like it fine so just going to replace the seals.
 
It has been my experience that it can be a combination of things but usually the main offender is worn trunion bearings in the top and bottom of the knuckles. Any worn parts can make it worse but I have always found a knuckle rebuild to be the cure. Bad tie rod ends and that stuff just make the front end feel sloppy. If you have true death wobble you will know. At about 30mph the truck feels like it is going to throw you from the road surface. If you get past it without crashing it suddenly can stop shaking at about 50. But it will come back violently as you slow.
 
Hugh Heifer said:
It has been my experience that it can be a combination of things but usually the main offender is worn trunion bearings in the top and bottom of the knuckles. Any worn parts can make it worse but I have always found a knuckle rebuild to be the cure. Bad tie rod ends and that stuff just make the front end feel sloppy. If you have true death wobble you will know. At about 30mph the truck feels like it is going to throw you from the road surface. If you get past it without crashing it suddenly can stop shaking at about 50. But it will come back violently as you slow.
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Damn you...that means I need to add that to the list lol. It didn’t have any wobble but it also had the two stabilizers on it so who knows. I’m guessing there’s no way to know if they need to be rebuilt while it’s apart?
 
You should be able to grab the knuckles and turn them and feel anything wrong. Rock them up and down, side to side, they should be tight but smooth.
 
lmajor32 said:
Damn you...that means I need to add that to the list lol. It didn’t have any wobble but it also had the two stabilizers on it so who knows. I’m guessing there’s no way to know if they need to be rebuilt while it’s apart?
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Probably can't tell. Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters has the rebuild kits reasonably priced. It is a messy job but worth a pound of cure.
Walter Wright is of course correct. If you jack up the front of the truck and grasp a front tire and pivot it it left and right towards lock, if you feel a tangible grind or rumble or detect anything loose in the hub, you are likely in need.
 
lmajor32 said:
Just watched a 30 min rebuild video...glad you mentioned it bc seems like it worth the effort since it’s all apart. Might as well do it all right!
Click to expand...
You may want to find someone from whom you can borrow the SST. If you discover worn out or broken shims you will need to re center everything for sure. Otherwise, it is good practice to use one and get it all set right the first time.
 
Hugh Heifer said:
You may want to find someone from whom you can borrow the SST. If you discover worn out or broken shims you will need to re center everything for sure. Otherwise, it is good practice to use one and get it all set right the first time.
Click to expand...
I’m guessing this might be a no duh but what is an SST?
 
Special Service Tool. There is a list of them in the back of the FSM (Factory Service Manual). You can get away with not needing most of them. The knuckle service tool is pretty important and there is really no substitute. There are some folks on the board who may allow you to borrow theirs but they are expensive.

09634-60014 Steering Knuckle Centering Gauge

09634-60014 Steering Knuckle Centering Gauge
www.freedomracing.com www.freedomracing.com
 
Hugh Heifer said:
Special Service Tool. There is a list of them in the back of the FSM (Factory Service Manual). You can get away with not needing most of them. The knuckle service tool is pretty important and there is really no substitute. There are some folks on the board who may allow you to borrow theirs but they are expensive.

09634-60014 Steering Knuckle Centering Gauge

09634-60014 Steering Knuckle Centering Gauge
www.freedomracing.com www.freedomracing.com
Click to expand...
Got it. Ouch ya $400 is rough! Will check locally to see if anyone has one I can borrow. RThanks.
 
Hugh Heifer said:
Probably can't tell. Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters has the rebuild kits reasonably priced. It is a messy job but worth a pound of cure.
Walter Wright is of course correct. If you jack up the front of the truck and grasp a front tire and pivot it it left and right towards lock, if you feel a tangible grind or rumble or detect anything loose in the hub, you are likely in need.
Click to expand...
Looks like cruiser outfitter which is cruiserteq are out of stock. I just ordered my rebuild kit for center link and tie TRE from them too.. I think I know the answer to this but do you guys suggest changing the wheel bearings at same time or is it even an option not two?
 
Last edited:
So here goes more rabbit hole questions...Would you guys suggest doing the following if I'm going to rebuild these? This is from the cruiserteq website

FAQ: Replacing/Rebuilding Your Birfield Joint?
Are you Planning to overhaul/replace or switch your birfield (outer axle joint) from one side to the other? If so, you will want to make sure to have the axle clips that go inside of the birf, they often break when removing the inner axle from the birf. See Part# FACL27091 & FACL34005 for your application. Order 2 per axle.

FAQ: Rebuilding Your Stock Aisin/Asco Hubs?
Are you planning to completely disassemble and overhaul your Aisin hubs? Fortunately they are very simple and contain only a few consumable parts. Plan on 2 of the Aisin dial 0-Rings (Part# HUB060010) and also consider replacing your worn hub dial detent spring and ball (Part# HUBDETENT), 1 kit required per hub. If you need addition hub parts such as studs, cone washers or dial bolts, see our Aisin Hub Parts listing.
 
Call Cruiser Outfitters and chat with them, tell them what you're working on and they'll let you know exactly what you're going to need. No BS sales pitches, just plain and simple honest customer service.

 
If it were me, I'd just rebuild the whole front end components and be done with it. Call Cruiser outfitters or Valley Hybrids and get the stuff.

I just did, knuckle rebuild, tie rod ends, brakes, rotors, studs, hubs and then just reused my cheap steering stabilizer. you "shouldn't" even need a stabilizer if everything is good and in spec on the front. An OEM steering stabilizer is pretty cheap. Those other parts for the Aisin/Asco and birf clips are dirt cheap so just do that as well. I also upgraded the axle seals to the marlin crawler seals. Replace the wheel bearings as well, just baseline that whole front end and be over with it. Might as well put new lug studs as well. This way you know you don't have to do it again for awhile.

I'd also plan on replacing those pogo sticks shocks. Bilstein makes a good setup for the FJ40 thats not too expensive.
Are you lifted at all? If so, you probably need axle shims if you don't have them to get your caster back in spec which could be contributing to your death wobble.
Cruiser brothers aka valley hybrids in Stockton, CA, has a great set of steel shims.

Personally, I've never used the SST for the front end. I've always been able to re-use the shims and so far everything is good on all my rebuilds. You will find varying opinions on this, but if you are able to reuse the shims, it's seems it almost always comes out correct.

Heck, thats just basically the front end. You still have the rear to deal with, then the middle, then everything... :rofl: :beer:


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