1st Gen 4Runner Rear Window Key Switch Repair/Retrofit (1 Viewer)

[BrickRunner]

How to retrofit a keyed momentary switch to replace the factory rear window key switch:

Backstory:

Last weekend during the rain, the rear window on my 1st gen 4Runner decided to roll itself down randomly. After a quick look for bare wires and shorts and finding nothing, I started going the the EWD. I unplugged the key switch first, as this was the most likely culprit, being more exposed to weather. I left it like that overnight and the window was still up, huzzah!
Looking at the switch, I had apparently opened it up and repaired it before, though I don't remember doing it (I'm the second owner and it's coming up on 20 years of ownership).
I took it apart again, greased it up, put it back together, and put it back in the truck. Now it would only go one way consistently instead of both ways, doh! I took it apart again and discovered the plastic bit holding the spring and locating the rotating contact plate had crumbled. Apparently nothing to do with the rain, it's just old. These switches are NLA and a used one is going to be just as old and crumbly so...

I found a generic keyed switch that fit the bill with essentially the same function, but would need to be made to fit.

I started by making two plates out of some 16 gauge (.0508) aluminum sheet. These will sandwich the license plate lamp holder. It could be done with stainless steel or even plastic. The switch has two flats to prevent rotation so the backing plate needs to have matching flats. I also put flats on the cover plate (the added friction cant hurt).

Make sure to test fit before you start wiring.

 

[BrickRunner]

After studying the wiring diagram for the switch and the 4Runner, I decided to use terminals 1 and 4 as common (Blue, L) 2 as down (Blue/White L-W) and 3 as up (Blue/Black L-B).

Solder up and heat shrink. I also like to cover the unused terminals. If your chosen connector wont pass through the nut and round plate, make sure they are on the switch barrel before soldering. Note: there are two common (Blue) wires, soldered together a few inches from the switch.

You also don't want too much excess wire, as extra wire can dangle in the tailgate and get chopped or pulled as the window passes by.

 

[BrickRunner]

You will need to cut the small wiring harness for the switch and license plate lights.

Install your favorite 3 wire connector set on the harness and switch assembly. Please note that the connector on the switch needs to be able to pass through the hole in the licence plate light holder.

Install the switch into the licence plate light holder and then connect the wiring harness. I put blue Loctite on the nut and tightened it down snugly.

Connect the harness to the window control to verify function, and then install the holder back into the truck. While I was in there, I took the opportunity to grease the window tracks and sector gears, and now it groans and moans much less, while moving more smoothly.

I now have another key on my key chain, but I have a functioning rear window!

 

[BrickRunner]

Whoops!, Wrong forum section!

 

[4runner2FJ60]

Damn, and I thought you were trying to fit a 4runner tailgate and hatch on a FJ60!

 

[BrickRunner]

Now we are in the right section. Thanks Mr. Moderator!

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Now we are in the right section. Thanks Mr. Moderator!

- how many different key switch options were on the first gen. 4runner ?

- so , i take it the rear lock cylinder itself i still ok right

finding any photos or TECH. on google is non-existent part # 84830-89102


thanks
matt

 

[pappy]

The rear window switch is NLA. The center console switch is still available. There is another issue that plagues the the back window. The window works with the console switch, but not the tailgate switch. I have yet to have somebody give a definitive solution. Lots of bubba solutions, and lots of conjecture. But nobody saying the problem is XYZ. I have a harness, switch, motor, relay in the house and some day I'll dive into it.

 

[gnob]

The rear window switch is NLA. The center console switch is still available. There is another issue that plagues the the back window. The window works with the console switch, but not the tailgate switch. I have yet to have somebody give a definitive solution. Lots of bubba solutions, and lots of conjecture. But nobody saying the problem is XYZ. I have a harness, switch, motor, relay in the house and some day I'll dive into it.

it looks like the rear wiper is going to be the only thing the two switches don't really fully share.
fixed many windows by unplugging the wiper.
the 90-95 window is fully integrated through the wiper without a simple bypass like 1st gens.

 

[pappy]

it looks like the rear wiper is going to be the only thing the two switches don't really fully share.
fixed many windows by unplugging the wiper.
the 90-95 window is fully integrated through the wiper without a simple bypass like 1st gens.

The only connection I know of between the wiper and the window is the silly "safety" switch in the wiper that keeps the window from working if the wiper is on. It doesn't matter which switch is used. The wiper safety switch combines with the door latch safety switch, and the switch that keeps the window from working if the top is off. All work by interrupting the ground.

 

[BrickRunner]

- how many different key switch options were on the first gen. 4runner ?

- so , i take it the rear lock cylinder itself i still ok right

finding any photos or TECH. on google is non-existent part # 84830-89102


thanks
matt

I'm not sure about how many different keys there were, but I've heard around ten.

Yeah, the lock cylinder works fine, if a tiny bit loose from wear.

The only broken pieces are the plastic spring retainer and the plastic terminal block of the switch itself.

The die cast housing for the whole assembly has some damage from being staked, unstaked, and staked again after the successful first repair and the unsuccessful second repair.

It's interesting that the part number I had found, 84830-89101, is one digit off from the one you found.

 

[BrickRunner]

The rear window switch is NLA. The center console switch is still available. There is another issue that plagues the the back window. The window works with the console switch, but not the tailgate switch. I have yet to have somebody give a definitive solution. Lots of bubba solutions, and lots of conjecture. But nobody saying the problem is XYZ. I have a harness, switch, motor, relay in the house and some day I'll dive into it.

This is similar to the issue I was having. After rolling the rear window up with the tailgate switch after it had rolled itself down several times, the switch finally just stopped rolling the window up, and then failed completely.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

I'm not sure about how many different keys there were, but I've heard around ten.

Yeah, the lock cylinder works fine, if a tiny bit loose from wear.

The only broken pieces are the plastic spring retainer and the plastic terminal block of the switch itself.

The die cast housing for the whole assembly has some damage from being staked, unstaked, and staked again after the successful first repair and the unsuccessful second repair.

It's interesting that the part number I had found, 84830-89101, is one digit off from the one you found.

The only connection I know of between the wiper and the window is the silly "safety" switch in the wiper that keeps the window from working if the wiper is on. It doesn't matter which switch is used. The wiper safety switch combines with the door latch safety switch, and the switch that keeps the window from working if the top is off. All work by interrupting the ground.

This is similar to the issue I was having. After rolling the rear window up with the tailgate switch after it had rolled itself down several times, the switch finally just stopped rolling the window up, and then failed completely.

was curious about this a bit because I have owned a few 1st gen. 4Runners in my time and the whole rear tailgate key switch and it’s attached lock cylinder assy. have plagued me too there more then once ,..

- the whole fact the tail gate is a rotating metal body panel with a electrical motor and pin safety switches etc. makes its NEG- ground to earth one successful remedy for me , the other 4runner a few years later I never quite figured out it was intermittent and seemed to act up when rainy and balmy out too ?

odd

It was not till today I realized the electrical key switch is a stand alone part from the rear lock cylinder too ?

Many Toyotas it’s a mated 1piece assy. much like a FJ55 Land Cruiser , and sometimes the key switch is the part # 84830-89101 I posted above ..

I found the 84830-89102 later in the day also , and a 84830-89103 was out there too in the end …

I studied the broken but very clear and up close tech. Images above and that style key switch was very unique to the 4runner , I did not see anything that is or was remotely close ?

The whole grounding NEG- topic at the rear tailgate panel assy. In the upright and closed and locked position I remedied using a smaller gauge size spec. mesh type grounding strap , much like you see going from a toyota fire wall cowl location under the hood to the cylinder head

American cars of the same Circa Era. 83-89 lacked the a
cowl fire wall to cylinder head neg- ground signal mesh strap in favor of the same size spec. one going up onto the hood and sneaking under the asphalt media hood liners to supply a reliable neg- ground signal in hood up position, making dam sure that cheezy little 1/2 a egg shell cup light & low wattage # 67 / # 89 gum ball marble size spec. bulb proudly illuminated as you are broke down on the shoulder of the Jersey Turn Pike because your engine block lacked a good neg- ground signal to various 1 pin sensors and sending units …

Notice not many TOYOTA s have / had under hood lighting …

might suggest you will need it sooner rather than later when grazing a dealership new car lot maybe

Toyota was sly here are gave you a “ Inspection Lamp “ quietly tucked away out of site in your glove pocket door …

 

[braddamarlon]

Talking about rear windows is there a way to hook up the rear window to a remote monetary relay switch?