Builds 1st FJ40, '76 - SMOKEY - Puttin’ her Back Together

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Documenting the correct motor mount installation - or at least what I believe it to be. I did flip the bolt orientation on the left rear mount to make it easier to get to the castle nut and cotter pin.

I also noticed that if you have the front square pads turned in the WRONG orientation, the mounts will NOT mate up to the holes in the brackets. So, it's hard to screw those up in practice. Basically, the metal tab on top faces away from the vehicle.


Front Right
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Front left
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Front left
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Rear left (flipped the bolt orientation)
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Rear right
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If you are paying attention, the previous post means something else - I put the engine in the truck! Big day! And I had a young mentor working with me the past two days. He's 13, but smart and really loves learning all about this.

Huge milestone for me. Whoop whoop!


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...Roll it out and...

You'll thank me later... Again.

This is the first favorite point for me on a build. Rolling chassis wth the drive train in.
 
Question for the community: I drove in the steering box bushings instead of pressing them in. One of the bushings got tweaked and deformed a little when I corrected it.

Now the worm gear shaft in the steering box is too tight - at least the one bushing, and maybe both.

Should I attempt to file the bushing(s) down so the shaft can turn, or just order them again, and this time press them in (like i should have the first damn time)?

In the last photo, you can see that the bushing is deformed.

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Without a mill (I realize you might go get one at Walmart during lunch) I would replace them. You can't make the perfect circle in there by hand.
 
Whilst waiting on the steering box bushing from SOR, cleaning up the bolt heads on the transmission and transfer case that I never protected two years ago.

Blasting and clear coating them. We shall see how well this holds up. I like the idea, just not sure the durability.

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Finally conquered this beotch! Steering boxes are precision and built to last. If it ain't broke, rebuild it for the experience. :grinpimp:

I did have to hone the last bushing to get enough clearance for the main shaft to rotate.

Then I had to remove the overspray on the mating surfaces to get everything to rotate.

Seeing a theme here?

It's a little tight but will loosen with time.

Mounted it temporarily to test turning torque.

This was a tough one. My forearms are aching from holding the thing just right over and over again to get the worm gear and main shaft teeth to mesh.

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That pitman arm looks like it went through the blender... "You missed a spot!" or, "Is that what it gonna look like when you're finished?"
 
Ok I'm back.

Steering control arms, box mounted.

Stripped the big bolt on the steering box trying to seat the Pittman arm. Grrrr.


This is as close as it's going to get after pounding it in with a sledge:
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And this is my clearance from the drag link to the shock - 1/4":
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Will it be ok?
 
Scott I believe the clearance will be sufficient. You may need to check the nut on the arm from time to time. I think as you drive it the arm will loosen and need to be tightened thus driving the arm further onto the shaft where it belongs.
 

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