Great rig and stories. Looks like you're taking your time and doing it right. Your compression numbers are outstanding - just check the valves (even cold, if you want) before you run it much, to be sure they aren't way off.
Builds 1MAC's 1965 FJ40 Project build (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter 1MAC
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- #22
Thanks. As soon as I get the wiring re-installed and working, I plan to do a complete valve adjustment. I would have done it before, but didn't have the gasket set at that time. I'm hoping that they are off just enough to explain the difference in compression!
By the way, this FJ came from Colorado Springs about one year ago this month. It was bought from Pike's Peak Auto Sales. Pretty shady outfit or no?
By the way, this FJ came from Colorado Springs about one year ago this month. It was bought from Pike's Peak Auto Sales. Pretty shady outfit or no?
A small time dealer. Be glad somebody loved it enough to even put it out for sale!
A small time dealer. Be glad somebody loved it enough to even put it out for sale!
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- #25
Continuing the work on the wiring. Repaired the instrument harness (it only had one bad wire).
Looking at the chassis (rear) harness, the last section runs through a green tube that I thought had been added by a PO. I spied a similar looking thing in Destin's 64 FJ build thread. Is this thing original?
Looking at the chassis (rear) harness, the last section runs through a green tube that I thought had been added by a PO. I spied a similar looking thing in Destin's 64 FJ build thread. Is this thing original?
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- #26
Lots of progress this weekend! Got the main harness made with wire, supplies and advice from Coolerman. I'm leaving some of the terminals off until I get it installed.
Also made the little bib harness today. I'm leaving the headlight wires long so I can wire in some relays.
Tomorrow I'll build the rear harness and hopefully get everything installed in a couple days! Really looking forward to seeing the lights and signals working.
Also made the little bib harness today. I'm leaving the headlight wires long so I can wire in some relays.
Tomorrow I'll build the rear harness and hopefully get everything installed in a couple days! Really looking forward to seeing the lights and signals working.
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- #27
I spent all day installing the new cowl and bib harnesses today, complete with relays for the headlights. Also installed new OEM turn signals and parking lights. Put in a new battery tray, hold-down kit and positive terminal. Upgraded the ammeter lead with a fusible link from Coolerman.
The headlights are on and I can't turn them off but nothing changes when I hit the dimmer switch. No parking lights in any position on the light switch and no turn signals either! I either have a bad light switch or I made an error in connecting the wires to the switch. I'll pull the light switch out tomorrow and figure out what the problem is. When I put +12V to the junction blocks, the low beams, high beams, parking lights and turn signals all come on nice and bright.
I knew the horn wouldn't work, because the wire from the horn button is MIA. I had planned to sort that out later. The wiper motors both click when I turn on the wiper switch, so I think they will work when I clean them up and put new grease in them.
First thing tomorrow is to diagnose the problem with the headlight switch. If that doesn't take too long, I'll mount the new tail lights, then build and install the rear harness. With a little luck, I may have a working electrical system!
The headlights are on and I can't turn them off but nothing changes when I hit the dimmer switch. No parking lights in any position on the light switch and no turn signals either! I either have a bad light switch or I made an error in connecting the wires to the switch. I'll pull the light switch out tomorrow and figure out what the problem is. When I put +12V to the junction blocks, the low beams, high beams, parking lights and turn signals all come on nice and bright.
I knew the horn wouldn't work, because the wire from the horn button is MIA. I had planned to sort that out later. The wiper motors both click when I turn on the wiper switch, so I think they will work when I clean them up and put new grease in them.
First thing tomorrow is to diagnose the problem with the headlight switch. If that doesn't take too long, I'll mount the new tail lights, then build and install the rear harness. With a little luck, I may have a working electrical system!
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- #28
Victory! I decided I must have screwed up the headlight relay connections so I took them out of the circuit. Now my parking lights, and high/low beams all work right.
My confidence restored, I built the rear harness complete with new plugs and connectors front to back. Now I have tail lights, too!
Now if I could just get the turn signals to work!
My confidence restored, I built the rear harness complete with new plugs and connectors front to back. Now I have tail lights, too!
Now if I could just get the turn signals to work!
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- #29
Help!!!
I cannot get the turn signals to work. The wiring diagram shows two wires going into the switch. GW from the stop switch goes hot when I step on the brake. GL from the flasher is hot whenever the ignition is on. All the bulbs and grounds are good. I have replaced the flasher with an electronic one just to rule that out.
The only thing I can deduce is that the turn signal switch is bad. I disassembled it, polished the contacts and reassembled it. I tried testing it while I had it out but wasn't sure how to go about that.
I should get continuity from the GL wire to either the GY or GO wires depending on which way the lever is pulled, right? If somebody can tell me how to rule out the turn signal switch as faulty, I'd really appreciate it.
Thanks for reading and here's a picture of our new puppy!
I cannot get the turn signals to work. The wiring diagram shows two wires going into the switch. GW from the stop switch goes hot when I step on the brake. GL from the flasher is hot whenever the ignition is on. All the bulbs and grounds are good. I have replaced the flasher with an electronic one just to rule that out.
The only thing I can deduce is that the turn signal switch is bad. I disassembled it, polished the contacts and reassembled it. I tried testing it while I had it out but wasn't sure how to go about that.
I should get continuity from the GL wire to either the GY or GO wires depending on which way the lever is pulled, right? If somebody can tell me how to rule out the turn signal switch as faulty, I'd really appreciate it.
Thanks for reading and here's a picture of our new puppy!
- Thread starter
- #31
Alright. I figured out there were TWO problems.
1. The terminal on the fuse block that supplies this circuit is faulty and was not supplying power all the time.
2. The turn signal switch has been broken before and repaired with a big sloppy weld. When I take the switch out of the housing, it now works flawlessly! The lever arm inside the switch goes crooked a little bit in the left position.
Can somebody post a picture of a turn signal switch like this one so I can see the connection between the arm and the actuating lever? Thanks in advance!
1. The terminal on the fuse block that supplies this circuit is faulty and was not supplying power all the time.
2. The turn signal switch has been broken before and repaired with a big sloppy weld. When I take the switch out of the housing, it now works flawlessly! The lever arm inside the switch goes crooked a little bit in the left position.
Can somebody post a picture of a turn signal switch like this one so I can see the connection between the arm and the actuating lever? Thanks in advance!
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- #33
Turn signal switch is on the way. I decided to take off the steering wheel and figure out why there is no horn wire coming out of the column. Using Coolerman's site as a reference, I pulled everything apart. I have to pull the wheel to replace the whole turn signal switch anyway, right?
It seems I am missing the horn seat and brush. The horn ring/insulator is totally crumbling and has no wire anymore. I ordered a used horn seat and a ring assembly from SOR.
In the meanwhile, I decided to try to fix the steering wheel while it's off and I'm waiting for parts. It has several huge cracks and looks pretty bad. I Dremeled them out a little bit an have started filling them with JB Weld. Here's a picture of the wheel when I started:
It seems I am missing the horn seat and brush. The horn ring/insulator is totally crumbling and has no wire anymore. I ordered a used horn seat and a ring assembly from SOR.
In the meanwhile, I decided to try to fix the steering wheel while it's off and I'm waiting for parts. It has several huge cracks and looks pretty bad. I Dremeled them out a little bit an have started filling them with JB Weld. Here's a picture of the wheel when I started:
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- #35
Got the steering wheel painted and ready to put back on. It looks pretty good in satin black, but I'll probably wet sand it and respray with gloss at a later date.
Now I have another problem. I can't figure out how the turn signal switch goes on in relation to the 3 speed column shifter. The new switch has a threaded hole that lines up with the threaded end of the shifter shaft, but the old switch didn't have any threads in that hole.
The hole in the old switch was slightly larger and allowed the shifter shaft to move back and forth. There is a bolt that was inserted from inside the switch that held it together. The fact that this bolt has a very thin head and is off center make me think it is another hack job done by a previous owner.
Can somebody tell me the right way to put this back together? I have searched the forums and looked at the FSM but can't figure it out.
Now I have another problem. I can't figure out how the turn signal switch goes on in relation to the 3 speed column shifter. The new switch has a threaded hole that lines up with the threaded end of the shifter shaft, but the old switch didn't have any threads in that hole.
The hole in the old switch was slightly larger and allowed the shifter shaft to move back and forth. There is a bolt that was inserted from inside the switch that held it together. The fact that this bolt has a very thin head and is off center make me think it is another hack job done by a previous owner.
Can somebody tell me the right way to put this back together? I have searched the forums and looked at the FSM but can't figure it out.
- Thread starter
- #36
Okay, I decided that the threaded piece on the shifter HAD to fit the base of the turn signal switch. But how to thread it in there?
I had already figured out that the shifter handle was held in by two sprung detents, but it took me a while to try pushing them in while rotating the lever. Voila!
Now I realize the little piece won't thread into the switch base. The threads are totally stripped! I don't yet have a metric tap and die set, so I took out some tiny jeweler's files and chased the threads (a lot!) until they looked like they might work. I then took a stainless nut with the correct threads and threaded it on and off a few times. It worked! I was able to thread it into the switch base.
I put it all back together and took a little time to make sure the shifter mechanism and TS switch operated correctly. Put the steering wheel back on and all the horn components. Hooked up the battery. Now I've got turn signals and a horn!
I seared an elk shoulder roast in a pan this morning and put it in the oven with some soy/ginger sauce at 200*. Tonight I will celebrate with some tasty meat and a cold beer.
I had already figured out that the shifter handle was held in by two sprung detents, but it took me a while to try pushing them in while rotating the lever. Voila!
Now I realize the little piece won't thread into the switch base. The threads are totally stripped! I don't yet have a metric tap and die set, so I took out some tiny jeweler's files and chased the threads (a lot!) until they looked like they might work. I then took a stainless nut with the correct threads and threaded it on and off a few times. It worked! I was able to thread it into the switch base.
I put it all back together and took a little time to make sure the shifter mechanism and TS switch operated correctly. Put the steering wheel back on and all the horn components. Hooked up the battery. Now I've got turn signals and a horn!
I seared an elk shoulder roast in a pan this morning and put it in the oven with some soy/ginger sauce at 200*. Tonight I will celebrate with some tasty meat and a cold beer.
When's the dinner bell ring?
Mmmm Elk
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- #39
IT'S ALIVE!!!
I picked up some fresh gas on the way home from work this morning, put a couple gallons in the FJ, and it fired right up!
Engine warmed up quickly, idled smooth. I drove around the block a couple times and went through all the gears without a hiccup. All gauges work, speedo works and lights/signals functioned perfectly.
Of course, the sagging 47 year old suspension together with bigger tires was not a good combination. The rears rubbed a little bit just pulling out of the driveway. Will have to decide whether I need a lift or if I can get by with new stock height springs.
I picked up some fresh gas on the way home from work this morning, put a couple gallons in the FJ, and it fired right up!
Engine warmed up quickly, idled smooth. I drove around the block a couple times and went through all the gears without a hiccup. All gauges work, speedo works and lights/signals functioned perfectly.
Of course, the sagging 47 year old suspension together with bigger tires was not a good combination. The rears rubbed a little bit just pulling out of the driveway. Will have to decide whether I need a lift or if I can get by with new stock height springs.
corleykj
Jack of some, definately master of none.
That is great you can drive it now. I have been following the progress. Keep it up! Any pics of it out on the road?
