Builds 1MAC's 1965 FJ40 Project build

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That is great you can drive it now. I have been following the progress. Keep it up! Any pics of it out on the road?

Hard to take pics and drive! Here's one of my little foray into the fresh snow.

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Removed because this is iMacs build thread.
 
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It's probably impossible to say if it's easier to repair or replace your wiring harness without seeing it in person. I'd be happy to take a look at it, but won't be in Wyoming for a few months! ;)

As for the B-pillar, I think only the factory soft-top models have the taller B-pillar. The only thing I did was remove the hardtop.
:beer:
 
It's probably impossible to say if it's easier to repair or replace your wiring harness without seeing it in person. I'd be happy to take a look at it, but won't be in Wyoming for a few months! ;)

As for the B-pillar, I think only the factory soft-top models have the taller B-pillar. The only thing I did was remove the hardtop.
:beer:

Edit..not my build thread.
 
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I've got some free time coming up, so it's time to order parts for the next phase.

1. Small lift to clear the tires. The stock springs have sagged and are almost on the bump stops in the front! I'm thinking of using the SOR 2 inch kit.

2. Rebuild the steering. I'll probably get a tie rod end kit and center arm kit from CCOT. I think I'll do the steering box later.

Suggestions?
 
Finally moving forward again! I ordered the OME lift kit and new tie rod ends. While I was waiting for them to arrive, my buddy convinced me it would be easier to go ahead and take the tub off now instead of doing all the suspension and steering work up under it and then taking the tub off later anyway.
I had some time off this week and got busy. I did one last shakedown of the vehicle, putting it in and out of 4wd and low range. I couldn't figure out how to operate the winch but decided it wasn't that critical.
I dove in and started the disassembly, drained the gas tank, disconnected the pedals, stripped the dash and wiring harness, etc.

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Here's the end result. All the mounts on the very back were rusted solid and had to be cut. I used an engine hoist to pick the tub off the frame and rolled the chassis out from under it. More work tomorrow!
image-4018701947.jpg
 
Finally moving forward again! I ordered the OME lift kit and new tie rod ends. While I was waiting for them to arrive, my buddy convinced me it would be easier to go ahead and take the tub off now instead of doing all the suspension and steering work up under it and then taking the tub off later anyway.
I had some time off this week and got busy. I did one last shakedown of the vehicle, putting it in and out of 4wd and low range. I couldn't figure out how to operate the winch but decided it wasn't that critical.
I dove in and started the disassembly, drained the gas tank, disconnected the pedals, stripped the dash and wiring harness, etc.

Here's the end result. All the mounts on the very back were rusted solid and had to be cut. I used an engine hoist to pick the tub off the frame and rolled the chassis out from under it. More work tomorrow!

Are the goals just a lift and steering while the body is off or do you have other plans?
Looks like you have great access with the tub off.
 
Are the goals just a lift and steering while the body is off or do you have other plans?
Looks like you have great access with the tub off.

I guess you'll have to stay tuned to this channel to find out!
 
Here is the pillar on mine. I will figure something out for summer if I am going to take the top off. I assume it will stick up and look ugly.

could cut off at tub lip and weld to hardtop. then just have to put a hole in bottom and a dowel to locate the hardtop (like the later hardtop tubes did)
 
Now that the body is off, I'm stripping the engine in preparation for pulling it. I want to clean everything up and paint it while its out.
For those of you who have done this before, is it easier to pull the engine out with the bell housing attached? It looks like it would be difficult to separate them. Bell housing to transmission bolts are easy to reach.
 
Most people pull the tranny/transfer, bellhousing, and engine as a complete assembly. Most people have the body on when they do this and that is probably why. Since you have the body off I would pull the trans/transfer with the cherry picker; remove the clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel; attach the picker to the engine and put a bit of tension on it; remove the BH (two of the 4 bolts are accessible from inside through the inspection cover on the bottom); and then pull the engine. It is HEAVY. Get a helper and minimize the distance you have to move it to get it on a stand (or tires or whatever). It is darn near impossible to put on a stand without removing the BH and wrenching on it whilst it hangs from the picker is lunacy.
 
Most people pull the tranny/transfer, bellhousing, and engine as a complete assembly. Most people have the body on when they do this and that is probably why. Since you have the body off I would pull the trans/transfer with the cherry picker; remove the clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel; attach the picker to the engine and put a bit of tension on it; remove the BH (two of the 4 bolts are accessible from inside through the inspection cover on the bottom); and then pull the engine. It is HEAVY. Get a helper and minimize the distance you have to move it to get it on a stand (or tires or whatever). It is darn near impossible to put on a stand without removing the BH and wrenching on it whilst it hangs from the picker is lunacy.

I like your plan for the whole process. Very logical and makes sense. I think that's what I'll do. Thanks for your post!

Now if I can just get the winch off the front. Do I need to pull out the shear pin to get it off? The PO replaced the shear pin with some kind of bolt, but the head is either rounded off or has been welded on, I can't tell.
 
Finally got the shear pin pounded out of the winch and got the whole winch assembly removed!

Today, I'm working on getting the engine out. I followed the above instructions and pulled the trans and transfer first. I'm gonna pause and clean the trans/transfer assembly before taking it off the hoist.
 
Okay, Kelly (2fpower) says not to worry about grease zerks on the tie rod ends.

My rolling chassis is completely bare, just waiting to go to the blaster. Unfortunately, I have no way to get it there for now. My buddy has a trailer I can borrow, but my DD won't pull it. His tow vehicle just sold and he is shopping for a new one.
In the meanwhile, I wanted to keep my project moving forward. I took a BUNCH of parts to a DIY blasting shop and spent a couple hours blasting all the splash guards, battery tray stand, air cleaner, PTO drive shaft, the manifolds, etc.
I've spent the last couple days cleaning the engine with degreaser, carb cleaner and brake cleaner. I finished that today and then primed and painted the engine.


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image-594893993.jpg
 
The engine looks great. Is a DIY blasting place affordable. I have never heard of them before.
 
The DIY blasting place charges $35/hour for their blasting cabinets or $65/hour for a blasting booth that you can drive into. A lot better than making a giant mess in my driveway!

I'm getting my rolling chassis ready for sandblasting and they recommend draining the diffs so they don't puke oil when I turn it up on its side to blast the bottom. Unfortunately, my drain plugs are sort of welded in place, because the ring that surrounds the plug has been beaten by rocks so that it is basically captive. Suggestions for freeing it up?
 
Do you have pics of the drain plugs condition?
 

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