1HDT 24v to 12v conversion step by step (2 Viewers)

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I used a 3way heat shrink butt connector similar to this.
3-way.jpg
 
I don't know what those three wires are, but it sounds like this serves as a functional connection?
 
Some words about my conversion 24-12v.
fired:
1) throw away 12-24 solenoid(was sold for 80$)
2)throw away wire from aux batt to starter (it is too weak)
3) throw away wire from main and aux batt(it is too weak)
4)throw away wire from alternator to 12-24 solenoid
5)throw away wire from main bat and engine and from 12-24 solenoid and engine.
6)throw away starter (was sold for 160$)
new:
7) install 12v starter from 1HD-FTE (land cruiser 100 with diesel) ( used from japan 220$)
8) install new wire from aux batt to body
9) install new wire from main and aux batt more diameter
10) install new wire from main and aux batt (-) to engine and to starter body more diameter
11) install new (+) wire from aux batt to starter more diameter
12) took signal connector that switched on 12-24 solenoid and use it to switch on starter relay(small metal boxed on the arc). We have (+) there on start.
13) now throw away all unused wire from batt to original connector of the starter relay.

all sold stuff with all wire were 260$
all bought stuff with wire, wire sleeves, starter were 300$
total spend one day of working and 40$


I do not need separate main and aux batts. So theay are always parallel as in stock.
Engine starst as it was. Like a gun fire with hulf of revolution.
 
Please clarify, what about all the 24v electronics that are in the truck, such as diff locks, window motor, instruments, etc. wouldn't all those need to be converted to 12v as well?
 
Wow really, that makes more sense, I've thought about converting my 77 to 12v but that means I would have to replace almost all the electronics, not worth it considering all that.
 
Wow really, that makes more sense, I've thought about converting my 77 to 12v but that means I would have to replace almost all the electronics, not worth it considering all that.

The only 24v part in an 80 with this system is the starter. The rest of the truck is 12v.
Thats right. This operation only for simplify electric and make truck more reliable and repairable in field conditions. And of cource to have more room to new additional stuff under bonnet
 
How's the start times now? I wouldn't trade my 24v system for the world ... I love just "bumping" the starter to have an instantly running truck

I did the conversion around 6 years ago, and 'she' jumps into life with a flick of the key. I used the 7622 Blue Seas unit with dual sense (solar input in aux) and remote switching, all these years in and worked fine until a couple of weeks back, now seems a little lazy when paralleling after being parked untouched for a for a few weeks.

Funny how back then many forum members thought I was crazy getting shot of the 24v system, it was as if they were protecting something magical, unless you live in Siberia IMO the 24v is a load off BS and completely unnecessary.

The details of the conversion are in my long running thread, link in sig.


regards

Dave
 
Just got back (I was overseas) to my 80 after it sat for a year with starting issues. replaced the 24v starter with a 12v. didn't do any of the fancy isolation or switching. But now I've got a small solenoid to on a momentary switch because when we put those 2 green, 1 white wire together we got nothing.

I want to unfrankenstein this thing after I get the rest of the tlc maintenance done, but neither my father or I understand properly where power from ignition is coming or going.
Are those 3 wires power from ignition?
Do they connect down to the small negative post on the starter?
I have the old 24v starter relay and starter timer relay still in place, but they are buried behind my webasto. Are they interfering?

Thanks for the thread!
 
Blue Sea Battery switch bracket mounted beside the air box intake.

20160207_103117-jpg.1208228

20160211_170726-jpg.1208229
love the diagram and the mounts for the battery switch... is this switch used to "self boost" yourself?
 
love the diagram and the mounts for the battery switch... is this switch used to "self boost" yourself?
Excuse my chicken scratch but I wanted to share a diagram of what have come up with.

I have a CTEK D250S Dual + SMARTPASS
I'm thinking of adding a couple of solar panels 2x 175W MPPT as the ctek has its own MPPT charge controller built in.

1687158546936.png


I have added a switch so I can self jump-start myself and enable winching.

my idea is to have the switch in the off position and if I need to select 1+2 to self-jump start or both batteries for winching
switch set to 1 will be the main battery and winch
switch set to 2 will be aux battery and winch

1687158083623.png
 
Excuse my chicken scratch but I wanted to share a diagram of what have come up with.

I have a CTEK D250S Dual + SMARTPASS
I'm thinking of adding a couple of solar panels 2x 175W MPPT as the ctek has its own MPPT charge controller built in.

View attachment 3352652

I have added a switch so I can self jump-start myself and enable winching.

my idea is to have the switch in the off position and if I need to select 1+2 to self-jump start or both batteries for winching
switch set to 1 will be the main battery and winch
switch set to 2 will be aux battery and winch

View attachment 3352649
Hi guys I have a question about wiring up the "alternator field disconnect to the Battery switch" here is the diagram by blue sea.
i was wondering which alternator wire do i use if i want to use this feature?
would it be the IG wire or the S - Sence wire on the toyota Denso alternator

1687379056221.png

1687379195480.png

there's no F - Field terminal so I'm guessing IG - Ignition because that wire turns on and off the regulator. but I just want to be sure.
 
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I remember around 11..ish years ago I mentioned on here on MUD that I was doing the 24v to 12v conversion, you should have heard (read?) the naysayers and haters, and of course they were the people who knew jack about electrics.

I wonder how long it will be before people take my conversion to cooling the 80 engine with an electric fan done around 12....ish years ago, will also gain popularity?

Funny how it takes so many years for modifications that are beneficial in so many ways to be considered and taken up?

I guess we can't all be pioneers? 😁



Regards

Dave
 
I remember around 11..ish years ago I mentioned on here on MUD that I was doing the 24v to 12v conversion, you should have heard (read?) the naysayers and haters, and of course they were the people who knew jack about electrics.

I wonder how long it will be before people take my conversion to cooling the 80 engine with an electric fan done around 12....ish years ago, will also gain popularity?

Funny how it takes so many years for modifications that are beneficial in so many ways to be considered and taken up?

I guess we can't all be pioneers? 😁



Regards

Dave
@Dave 2000 I remember your build such a nice build log you have!!! thanks for sharing your link again!!! I remember this from around 10 years ago.
 
@Dave 2000 I remember your build such a nice build log you have!!! thanks for sharing your link again!!! I remember this from around 10 years ago.
Many thanks for that, the 80 is by far the longest I have ever owned any single car.

There was a long gap in my posts though, the reason was the appearance of a cancer tumour in the left frontal lobe of my brain in August 2021. Surgery seems to have been successful, as no signs of any recurrence. Unfortunately it has taken nearly two years relearning to do everything from walking unaided, to speaking without having epileptic fits. Finally after 22 months my epilepsy medication balance has been declared stable so have regained my driving licence, albeit losing my HGV entitlement, but now back to full steam ahead.

Regards

Dave.
 
Many thanks for that, the 80 is by far the longest I have ever owned any single car.

There was a long gap in my posts though, the reason was the appearance of a cancer tumour in the left frontal lobe of my brain in August 2021. Surgery seems to have been successful, as no signs of any recurrence. Unfortunately it has taken nearly two years relearning to do everything from walking unaided, to speaking without having epileptic fits. Finally after 22 months my epilepsy medication balance has been declared stable so have regained my driving licence, albeit losing my HGV entitlement, but now back to full steam ahead.

Regards

Dave.

oh man had no idea! Glad to have you back Dave2000 sounds like you are a real fighter!!!
would love to see more of the 80! hopefully, you have some amazing trips planned!
 
oh man had no idea! Glad to have you back Dave2000 sounds like you are a real fighter!!!
would love to see more of the 80! hopefully, you have some amazing trips planned!
Thanks for that, at the moment it is more about stamina, after getting through the inspection I took her for a drive for about an hour, got home and crashed on the sofa for two hours! 😁

I did get some easy jobs done on the 'ol girl' but left anything a little on the heavy side (stroke weary now), the front axle needs an overhaul, all parts ready in the workshop. I was hoping to go to Africa in October with some UK club members but cannot see me doing that, Gorafe Desert in Spain will probably be a good test perhaps end of October, see how it goes.

Anyway, let's let this thread run, and thanks all for the thoughts.

Regards

Dave
 
i have a question guys, im redoing the wiring in my truck and i have noticed that i don't have these wires connected together but my 12V starting is working

am i missing something what is the purpose of connecting these 3 wires together?

1688459273310.png

my old thread here of what I have done


but I think connecting the 3 wires (white + 2 green wires) together goes to the ground according to EWD

please correct me if I'm wrong I have highlighted in yellow.

1688459858379.png
 

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