PNWTreeOctopus
SILVER Star
You do realize you quoted a post from page 1…..circa 2010. Welcome to tomorrow!
Builds My LC 80 thread.
- Thread starter Dave 2000
- Start date
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Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
- Thread starter
- #703
Update on the radio install.
Despite spending considerable time looking through the various connections/diagrams, it seems apparent that Toyota intended for any and all accessories to be disabled whilst cranking the engine, well at least in the case of the HDJ80.
My original thought was that the 'key 1' and 'key 2' marked connections were to be used to prevent the cycling on/off/on during the starting process, that is the starter wire going 'live' during cranking and maintaining the radio live connection as the ACC went dead, alas this not the case. Connecting the live from the IGN direct to the ACC was obviously a stupid idea, so having tried everything I have to conclude that this modern unit was intended for more modern vehicles, or the unit is malfunctioning? Perhaps even the radio is functioning as intended, and as others have wired the radio in and the on/off action does not bother them, but in my opinion this continued cycling is not good for the long term life of the electronics?
Putting in a relay to circumnavigate the problem would be easy enough however, a much more elegant solution was to put in a couple of IN4001 diodes. The first on the AAC output and the second on the output on the ignition line from the fuse box that stays live during cranking. With both diodes biased towards the radio this solved the cycling issue, with the key at ACC the radio was on as it was when the key was turned to IGN position, now cranking the starter the ACC goes dead (the original problem), but the ignition line stays live and by supplementing the radio power the music plays on.
The diodes at no time will allow either the ACC or IGN to 'see' the supply from each of the two sources, and of course no EMF issues, next job is to wire in the two rear view camera's, and of course the dash cam, whilst not exactly technically challenging it will be a pain in the arse to run the multiple cables properly.
At this time I would like to take the opportunity to wish all MUD members and staff a Happy New Year!
Thanks for keeping up.
Regards
Dave
Despite spending considerable time looking through the various connections/diagrams, it seems apparent that Toyota intended for any and all accessories to be disabled whilst cranking the engine, well at least in the case of the HDJ80.
My original thought was that the 'key 1' and 'key 2' marked connections were to be used to prevent the cycling on/off/on during the starting process, that is the starter wire going 'live' during cranking and maintaining the radio live connection as the ACC went dead, alas this not the case. Connecting the live from the IGN direct to the ACC was obviously a stupid idea, so having tried everything I have to conclude that this modern unit was intended for more modern vehicles, or the unit is malfunctioning? Perhaps even the radio is functioning as intended, and as others have wired the radio in and the on/off action does not bother them, but in my opinion this continued cycling is not good for the long term life of the electronics?
Putting in a relay to circumnavigate the problem would be easy enough however, a much more elegant solution was to put in a couple of IN4001 diodes. The first on the AAC output and the second on the output on the ignition line from the fuse box that stays live during cranking. With both diodes biased towards the radio this solved the cycling issue, with the key at ACC the radio was on as it was when the key was turned to IGN position, now cranking the starter the ACC goes dead (the original problem), but the ignition line stays live and by supplementing the radio power the music plays on.
The diodes at no time will allow either the ACC or IGN to 'see' the supply from each of the two sources, and of course no EMF issues, next job is to wire in the two rear view camera's, and of course the dash cam, whilst not exactly technically challenging it will be a pain in the arse to run the multiple cables properly.
At this time I would like to take the opportunity to wish all MUD members and staff a Happy New Year!
Thanks for keeping up.
Regards
Dave
Last edited:
Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
- Thread starter
- #704
OK where are we with the radio/dash cameras install?
I have mentioned that given my present health I can only do so much on the mods/installation of 'stuff' and repairs to my 80, sometimes just an hour or two a day? Hopefully along the way the information I provide may help someone in the future? With probably two hundred thousand views and I have no idea of the amount of followers, I am sure someone will get something from this long running thread?
So, the installation of anything should always be done on a step by step basis, in particular electrical/electronic devices or gadgets. The above post with regards to needing opposing diodes just to stop the cycling process of the radio upon cranking the engine, so make sure you keep testing as you go.
So moving on, the front and rear dash cameras were sold as a single unit, the main reason for choosing this particular model. Before going further I will explain a curiosity in the components supplied. Everything was as expected except there was not one USB power cable but two? One was short and expected to be used with the cigarette lighter adaptor and plugged into the front camera however, the other is at a guess around four metres? The strange thing is this longer cable which still plugs into the camera at the front is needed to allow the rear camera to function? Now this makes no sense whatsoever, and from a curiosity point of view I tested it and the rear view camera does not work with the shorter power cable to the main unit, so why not simply put the single shorter cable in the box with rear view capability instead of one long and one short cable? I would point out the four metre long USB cable has no connection direct connection to the rear camera outside of something inside the main unit.
I had no need for the reversing camera that comes with the larger 7 inch screen of the radio, but it was in the box so why not use it anyway? As they will both come on at the same time there are a couple of advantages, the first is the camera lighting, the four LED's of each camera are really quite bright even during daylight, thus hopefully pointing out to any sleepy followers that I intend to reverse! The second advantage is additional lighting when reversing at night, nothing wrong with that living in a country with minimal light pollution. The cameras are identical which fits in with my symmetrical way of thinking, the brackets are slightly different but made no odds as they are hidden anyway. I mounted both cameras under and towards the centre of the cowling that holds the number plate lamps, followers of this thread will recall I purchased a pair of LED lamps that were a perfect fit for the originals? So with the brackets mounted and then the cameras they look neat and tidy. Whilst the letters and numbers on the plate were visible from behind, it could be argued by the Guardia Trafico that they might not be seen by roadside speed cameras that are mounted higher up. Rather than risk the hefty fines that are often handed out here in Spain for example a bag of shopping on the back seat will set you back €150.00! I opted to lower the number plate a couple of inches. With the plate removed it revealed some surface rust, this got a coat of anti rust paint and will do until I can get the 80 painted, this however will not happen at least by me if I don't recover my driving licence this year.
The removable panels under the tailgate carpet gave good access to the pigtails of the cables, both the rear dash camera and reversing camera needed a positive connection from the reversing lights, I connected them together this left me just the one cable to connect to the reversing light positive. Now there are just the two cables to run to the front of the car, one with a video connector (radio reversing camera), and the other a small five pin connector for the dash camera.
Getting the connectors through the rubber sleeve that bridged the gap between tailgate and body was a challenge, being right handed (but now with poor functionality since the surgery) made what should have been a simple task bloody hard work! I also lowered the spare wheel which made more room to work, the cables were taped up and run along the rear chassis member secured with multiple zip tied and up into the cubby section where the jack is housed, this gives easy access to the reversing light positive cable. All grommets were cut to allow fitment of the extra cables, once back in place the cables and grommets were given a good coating with RTV sealant.
Tomorrow will see another test to make sure all connections are sound, there is nothing worse than finding something does not work once the cables are tucked away with the 'crowbar'.....well that is what the instructions say to use, and they DO supply one in the box, made of plastic!
All I am worried about is the 80 being quite long that the cables might not reach, get back to you when I know.
Other stuff while I am here, the spare wheel winch despite working perfectly I did give it a good drowning in penetrating oil, this keeps thing moving nicely and does not leave everything greasy allowing dust to stick and gather around the mechanism. When off roading I carry a roof rack with the RTT and a load of other gear that includes 2 x 20 litre Jerry cans of diesel. I did have plans to fit the extra fuel tank Toyota fitted for other markets, but after owning the 80 for around twelve years I still have not got around to doing it, so I may simply lift the crossbar that holds the spare wheel winch up into the redundant space above where the reserve tank would be, this would lift the spare wheel up out of the way, it had made contact here and there on obstacles but has not proved to be a problem. It appears a hole will be needed in the bumper to get the lowering/raising tool to access the winch though, so I may go ahead with this simple enough modification? There was a post/thread on here that someone thoughtfully posted up, I will have a look around to see if I can find it.
Thanks for reading and keeping up.
Regards
Dave
I have mentioned that given my present health I can only do so much on the mods/installation of 'stuff' and repairs to my 80, sometimes just an hour or two a day? Hopefully along the way the information I provide may help someone in the future? With probably two hundred thousand views and I have no idea of the amount of followers, I am sure someone will get something from this long running thread?
So, the installation of anything should always be done on a step by step basis, in particular electrical/electronic devices or gadgets. The above post with regards to needing opposing diodes just to stop the cycling process of the radio upon cranking the engine, so make sure you keep testing as you go.
So moving on, the front and rear dash cameras were sold as a single unit, the main reason for choosing this particular model. Before going further I will explain a curiosity in the components supplied. Everything was as expected except there was not one USB power cable but two? One was short and expected to be used with the cigarette lighter adaptor and plugged into the front camera however, the other is at a guess around four metres? The strange thing is this longer cable which still plugs into the camera at the front is needed to allow the rear camera to function? Now this makes no sense whatsoever, and from a curiosity point of view I tested it and the rear view camera does not work with the shorter power cable to the main unit, so why not simply put the single shorter cable in the box with rear view capability instead of one long and one short cable? I would point out the four metre long USB cable has no connection direct connection to the rear camera outside of something inside the main unit.
I had no need for the reversing camera that comes with the larger 7 inch screen of the radio, but it was in the box so why not use it anyway? As they will both come on at the same time there are a couple of advantages, the first is the camera lighting, the four LED's of each camera are really quite bright even during daylight, thus hopefully pointing out to any sleepy followers that I intend to reverse! The second advantage is additional lighting when reversing at night, nothing wrong with that living in a country with minimal light pollution. The cameras are identical which fits in with my symmetrical way of thinking, the brackets are slightly different but made no odds as they are hidden anyway. I mounted both cameras under and towards the centre of the cowling that holds the number plate lamps, followers of this thread will recall I purchased a pair of LED lamps that were a perfect fit for the originals? So with the brackets mounted and then the cameras they look neat and tidy. Whilst the letters and numbers on the plate were visible from behind, it could be argued by the Guardia Trafico that they might not be seen by roadside speed cameras that are mounted higher up. Rather than risk the hefty fines that are often handed out here in Spain for example a bag of shopping on the back seat will set you back €150.00! I opted to lower the number plate a couple of inches. With the plate removed it revealed some surface rust, this got a coat of anti rust paint and will do until I can get the 80 painted, this however will not happen at least by me if I don't recover my driving licence this year.
The removable panels under the tailgate carpet gave good access to the pigtails of the cables, both the rear dash camera and reversing camera needed a positive connection from the reversing lights, I connected them together this left me just the one cable to connect to the reversing light positive. Now there are just the two cables to run to the front of the car, one with a video connector (radio reversing camera), and the other a small five pin connector for the dash camera.
Getting the connectors through the rubber sleeve that bridged the gap between tailgate and body was a challenge, being right handed (but now with poor functionality since the surgery) made what should have been a simple task bloody hard work! I also lowered the spare wheel which made more room to work, the cables were taped up and run along the rear chassis member secured with multiple zip tied and up into the cubby section where the jack is housed, this gives easy access to the reversing light positive cable. All grommets were cut to allow fitment of the extra cables, once back in place the cables and grommets were given a good coating with RTV sealant.
Tomorrow will see another test to make sure all connections are sound, there is nothing worse than finding something does not work once the cables are tucked away with the 'crowbar'.....well that is what the instructions say to use, and they DO supply one in the box, made of plastic!
All I am worried about is the 80 being quite long that the cables might not reach, get back to you when I know.Other stuff while I am here, the spare wheel winch despite working perfectly I did give it a good drowning in penetrating oil, this keeps thing moving nicely and does not leave everything greasy allowing dust to stick and gather around the mechanism. When off roading I carry a roof rack with the RTT and a load of other gear that includes 2 x 20 litre Jerry cans of diesel. I did have plans to fit the extra fuel tank Toyota fitted for other markets, but after owning the 80 for around twelve years I still have not got around to doing it, so I may simply lift the crossbar that holds the spare wheel winch up into the redundant space above where the reserve tank would be, this would lift the spare wheel up out of the way, it had made contact here and there on obstacles but has not proved to be a problem. It appears a hole will be needed in the bumper to get the lowering/raising tool to access the winch though, so I may go ahead with this simple enough modification? There was a post/thread on here that someone thoughtfully posted up, I will have a look around to see if I can find it.
Thanks for reading and keeping up.
Regards
Dave
Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
- Thread starter
- #705
I did get to do more on the radio install yesterday, and as expected the cables were short.
The cable from the reversing camera to the radio was short however, coming alongside the passenger front seat (remember my 80 is RHD), I then went under the carpet and sound deadening felt across the front of the seat, to clarify, if the occupant of the seat seat with the back of their legs against the seat, the heels of their footwear would be on or very close to the cable. Given that people don't don't or rarely sit like that, and given the thickness of the aforementioned carpet and felt, I am sure the cable will be safe.
The rear dash cam cable on the other hand is a good metre or perhaps a little more too short, absolutely no way the cable will reach the camera up behind the rear view mirror, I contacted the supplier and they are sending a 2 metre extension FOC. So fingers crossed that will be here soon.
Let you know as and when it arrives and the install is complete.
Regards
Dave
The cable from the reversing camera to the radio was short however, coming alongside the passenger front seat (remember my 80 is RHD), I then went under the carpet and sound deadening felt across the front of the seat, to clarify, if the occupant of the seat seat with the back of their legs against the seat, the heels of their footwear would be on or very close to the cable. Given that people don't don't or rarely sit like that, and given the thickness of the aforementioned carpet and felt, I am sure the cable will be safe.
The rear dash cam cable on the other hand is a good metre or perhaps a little more too short, absolutely no way the cable will reach the camera up behind the rear view mirror, I contacted the supplier and they are sending a 2 metre extension FOC. So fingers crossed that will be here soon.
Let you know as and when it arrives and the install is complete.
Regards
Dave
Last edited:
Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
- Thread starter
- #706
The eagle has landed......well not really, it's the speedometer!
No it's true, after the customs in Madrid screwed up, and the speedometer being sent back to Ireland it went missing for months! Finally it turns out that it has been destroyed!
The guy who sent it is from landcruiserclub.net has been great sourcing the second one, and has been very fair with the price.
And here it is, the top one is the replacement, unfortunately it shows considerably more miles. So they are being shown here on MUD together until I can get the replacement corrected, partly because of legal reasons and of course for the next owner when that day comes around.
Many thanks for keeping up.
Regards
Dave
No it's true, after the customs in Madrid screwed up, and the speedometer being sent back to Ireland it went missing for months! Finally it turns out that it has been destroyed!
The guy who sent it is from landcruiserclub.net has been great sourcing the second one, and has been very fair with the price.
And here it is, the top one is the replacement, unfortunately it shows considerably more miles. So they are being shown here on MUD together until I can get the replacement corrected, partly because of legal reasons and of course for the next owner when that day comes around.
Many thanks for keeping up.
Regards
Dave
Last edited:
Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
- Thread starter
- #707
At last! I can confirm the speedometer was fitted today and works perfectly, just for the sake of it and not being allowed out on official roads, I drove up the campo tracks outside and along from my house comparing the speedometer with the GPS reading and they are spot on!
Those who follow this thread may recall a few years back I fitted an oil PRESSURE switch in conjunction with the oil pressure gauge to illuminate an oil PRESSURE light and sound a buzzer? After putting the dashboard back in this morning in I switched on the ignition and no buzzer? The buzzer sounds if the engine is close to overheating, the radiator is low on water, and of course have low oil pressure, this is along with custom icons on the dashboard. I checked the isolation switch to prevent the buzzer driving me nuts with ignition on but the engine off, the switch was on....I gave it the mechanics 'thump' and no change....but the oil pressure LED was on? Started the engine and oil pressure light went out. Switching off and on again but still no buzzer!
Having had the dashboard out recently to fit the new touchscreen head unit, and of course the speedometer, I guessed I had pulled a wire? So out came the dashboard again, anyway after testing this and that I find all wiring was intact, then I find have 2+ volts instead of the 12+ volts I expected. Following the wires out it transpired that a fuse under the bonnet had some corrosion, clearly the waterproof fuse holder......wasn't! Cleaned and drowned in contact cleaner and a new fuse just for the hell of it and all was well. Apart from the coincidence of the dashboard being out at the same time as the buzzer failure, it shows there was enough current getting through the corroded fuse and holder to light the LED but not enough to sound the buzzer!
Anyway, these things happen proving that despite so many years of working on vehicles, it can be the simplest of things that bring out the leccy gremlins!
Thanks for keeping up all.
Regards
Dave.
Those who follow this thread may recall a few years back I fitted an oil PRESSURE switch in conjunction with the oil pressure gauge to illuminate an oil PRESSURE light and sound a buzzer? After putting the dashboard back in this morning in I switched on the ignition and no buzzer? The buzzer sounds if the engine is close to overheating, the radiator is low on water, and of course have low oil pressure, this is along with custom icons on the dashboard. I checked the isolation switch to prevent the buzzer driving me nuts with ignition on but the engine off, the switch was on....I gave it the mechanics 'thump' and no change....but the oil pressure LED was on? Started the engine and oil pressure light went out. Switching off and on again but still no buzzer!
Having had the dashboard out recently to fit the new touchscreen head unit, and of course the speedometer, I guessed I had pulled a wire? So out came the dashboard again, anyway after testing this and that I find all wiring was intact, then I find have 2+ volts instead of the 12+ volts I expected. Following the wires out it transpired that a fuse under the bonnet had some corrosion, clearly the waterproof fuse holder......wasn't! Cleaned and drowned in contact cleaner and a new fuse just for the hell of it and all was well. Apart from the coincidence of the dashboard being out at the same time as the buzzer failure, it shows there was enough current getting through the corroded fuse and holder to light the LED but not enough to sound the buzzer!
Anyway, these things happen proving that despite so many years of working on vehicles, it can be the simplest of things that bring out the leccy gremlins!
Thanks for keeping up all.
Regards
Dave.
Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
- Thread starter
- #708
So the speedometer was removed today and the odometer corrected to the original reading. This had to be done for the new owner, and of course my own psychological well being. 
A retest of the speedometer reading showed it is showing 1 MPH......ISH too fast, trying to confirm it is nearer half a MPH was going to be difficult, it took about 20 times to get it where it is now finished off my patience, but I am happy to state it is fractionally fast which is better than fractionally slow.
The trip meter works as does the timing belt trigger. For the record I will change the belt and tensioner and reset the warning light.
Pictures below.
Thanks for keeping up and following.
Regards
Dave.
A retest of the speedometer reading showed it is showing 1 MPH......ISH too fast, trying to confirm it is nearer half a MPH was going to be difficult, it took about 20 times to get it where it is now finished off my patience, but I am happy to state it is fractionally fast which is better than fractionally slow.
The trip meter works as does the timing belt trigger. For the record I will change the belt and tensioner and reset the warning light.
Pictures below.
Thanks for keeping up and following.
Regards
Dave.
Last edited:
Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
- Thread starter
- #709
Update.
Nothing spectacular going on other than a recalibration check of the various gauges, the minor gauges have needles that are quite difficult to pull off and reposition to reflect correctly what they are related too.
So for example to calibrate the contents of the fuel tank it is easier to pull the sender unit from the tank and adjust the float arm. I found this when I had to replace it shortly after purchasing the 80 around 12....ish years ago? Anyone reading this will know the diesel version is particularly sensitive to the filter on the pick up pipe becoming contaminated, this can reduce or even block fuel flow, I have never had reason to open the fuel tank on a petrol or gasoline versions so cannot comment whether the fuel filter gets contaminated or even if there is one, what I can say is the fuel pickup/level sender/low fuel sensor assembly does not come supplied with the filter.
Calibration has obvious advantages without possible damage to the gauge however, there is something else to be gained. Using a syphon it is possible to 'hoover' around the inside area of the pick up anti surge barrier, being the lowest section of the tank it is where water and other debris collect, so an opportune moment to draw them off, perhaps half a gallon will be lost but much of it water. So, I said lowest section of the tank...but is it?
A few years back, I at the request of a new owner of an 80 that run out of fuel despite an indication of half a tank from his fuel gauge, and why it was 'sticking' incidently the same original fault I had with mine, I did the usual tests of the electrical system and all seemed well. Removing the tank pickup was the next step, having done so the problem was obvious, the tank pickup was bent having been pushed upwards from an impact from under the fuel tank! Looking underneath the fuel tank impact guard was in place and in good condition, closer inspection though looking through the guard holes I could see the fuel tank had in fact received a considerable impact! I did not even consider looking under the car, the owner had a professional appraisal of it before his purchase just a couple of weeks previously.
So, it seems a previous owner found it easier to replace the shield and not the tank after the incident that caused the damage! I changed the tank with a good second hand unit complete with sender and all good, as an aside I have seen (not on an 80) the lower part of the pickup rusted away around two inches caused by water collecting in the tank.
So if nothing else put this on your checklist when making your next purchase....of any car!
So I digress, given my OE oil pressure gauge was 'off' in comparison with the permanent oil pressure gauge under the bonnet or hood, I had as mentioned earlier already adjusted it twice (oh yes you can), the new OE one will arrive sometime next week, but I am staying over a friends house looking after their dogs, so it will be the week after before being fitted, it would be nice to fit an OE unit and find I don't need to calibrate it!
Regards
Dave
Nothing spectacular going on other than a recalibration check of the various gauges, the minor gauges have needles that are quite difficult to pull off and reposition to reflect correctly what they are related too.
So for example to calibrate the contents of the fuel tank it is easier to pull the sender unit from the tank and adjust the float arm. I found this when I had to replace it shortly after purchasing the 80 around 12....ish years ago? Anyone reading this will know the diesel version is particularly sensitive to the filter on the pick up pipe becoming contaminated, this can reduce or even block fuel flow, I have never had reason to open the fuel tank on a petrol or gasoline versions so cannot comment whether the fuel filter gets contaminated or even if there is one, what I can say is the fuel pickup/level sender/low fuel sensor assembly does not come supplied with the filter.
Calibration has obvious advantages without possible damage to the gauge however, there is something else to be gained. Using a syphon it is possible to 'hoover' around the inside area of the pick up anti surge barrier, being the lowest section of the tank it is where water and other debris collect, so an opportune moment to draw them off, perhaps half a gallon will be lost but much of it water. So, I said lowest section of the tank...but is it?
A few years back, I at the request of a new owner of an 80 that run out of fuel despite an indication of half a tank from his fuel gauge, and why it was 'sticking' incidently the same original fault I had with mine, I did the usual tests of the electrical system and all seemed well. Removing the tank pickup was the next step, having done so the problem was obvious, the tank pickup was bent having been pushed upwards from an impact from under the fuel tank! Looking underneath the fuel tank impact guard was in place and in good condition, closer inspection though looking through the guard holes I could see the fuel tank had in fact received a considerable impact! I did not even consider looking under the car, the owner had a professional appraisal of it before his purchase just a couple of weeks previously.
So, it seems a previous owner found it easier to replace the shield and not the tank after the incident that caused the damage! I changed the tank with a good second hand unit complete with sender and all good, as an aside I have seen (not on an 80) the lower part of the pickup rusted away around two inches caused by water collecting in the tank.
So if nothing else put this on your checklist when making your next purchase....of any car!
So I digress, given my OE oil pressure gauge was 'off' in comparison with the permanent oil pressure gauge under the bonnet or hood, I had as mentioned earlier already adjusted it twice (oh yes you can), the new OE one will arrive sometime next week, but I am staying over a friends house looking after their dogs, so it will be the week after before being fitted, it would be nice to fit an OE unit and find I don't need to calibrate it!
Regards
Dave
Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
- Thread starter
- #710
Just an update of being pissed off.
Having multiple health issues (good days/bad days), and of course various appointments, and now the coldest weather this area of Spain has experienced in the 16 plus years I have lived here (global warming?), means my time to work on my 80 is limited, so careful planning is the order of the day.
With the arrival of the OE Toyota oil pressure sensor, I put aside just twenty minutes to sort the swap. Having a 'T' piece in the block means I have ports for an oil pressure switch, and a second oil pressure gauge I have fitted under the bonnet, this means it really is a few minutes to swap the sensors.
With a modified 14mm open ended spanner I did the job, blow me down the gauge did not move! Of course a check of the additional gauge shows good pressure, the new sensor is faulty!
Checks on the suppliers computer show this is only the second failure from over 500 units sold!
The new one arrived yesterday, I will pick it up after physiotherapy, and depending on how it goes I might fit it tomorrow? The annoying thing is that I might as well have recalibrated my old one and saved a few quid, took the easier route having less patience these days.
On the plus side, the extension cable for the rear view dash camera has arrived, readers will recall the supplier pointed out that the cable supplied with the camera was of adequate length to suit estate cars, I guess they never test fitted one in an 80? Either way that will also be fitted asap.
Thanks for keeping up.
Regards
Dave
Having multiple health issues (good days/bad days), and of course various appointments, and now the coldest weather this area of Spain has experienced in the 16 plus years I have lived here (global warming?), means my time to work on my 80 is limited, so careful planning is the order of the day.
With the arrival of the OE Toyota oil pressure sensor, I put aside just twenty minutes to sort the swap. Having a 'T' piece in the block means I have ports for an oil pressure switch, and a second oil pressure gauge I have fitted under the bonnet, this means it really is a few minutes to swap the sensors.
With a modified 14mm open ended spanner I did the job, blow me down the gauge did not move! Of course a check of the additional gauge shows good pressure, the new sensor is faulty!
Checks on the suppliers computer show this is only the second failure from over 500 units sold!The new one arrived yesterday, I will pick it up after physiotherapy, and depending on how it goes I might fit it tomorrow? The annoying thing is that I might as well have recalibrated my old one and saved a few quid, took the easier route having less patience these days.
On the plus side, the extension cable for the rear view dash camera has arrived, readers will recall the supplier pointed out that the cable supplied with the camera was of adequate length to suit estate cars, I guess they never test fitted one in an 80? Either way that will also be fitted asap.
Thanks for keeping up.
Regards
Dave
Yes, but -- you live in a state that nobody can spell...
Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
- Thread starter
- #713
Update time! 26/03/23 @ 284,458 miles......yeh I know the mileage still unchanged, I still have no driving licence 
, hopefully being returned around May or June?
So the replacement second new oil pressure sensor arrived and gauge shows a good reading after the first new one failed to work in any way whatsoever. I didn't bother calibrating the new sensor, it is an OE unit and does the job when comparing with the under bonnet second gauge. Just a note here, by chance I found copies on the internet are now available cheap however, the calibration can be off quite considerably, (pointed out by the seller), given they can be adjusted it might be worth saving around 50% of the OE price, and in these days of thin wallets and high prices you may consider that option?
So to the dash cam installation. Readers will recall the cable for the rear section of the dual direction dash cam was too short for the 80?
I emailed the supplier and a two metre extension was sent, it was FOC bar a couple of euros for postage, so a simple matter of connecting and finishing the installation right? No fecking way!
Just in case you buy one of these Osprey systems which once installed works brilliantly you need to know something about the extension cable, it may also apply to other brands as well?
The rear camera comes with a cable 'tail' fitted with a plug, also coming from the same cable is a wire that connects to the reversing light positive, easy enough I hear you say which it is. I had done the install, fitting the camera, feeding wires through the OE grommets, and having to cut a couple of the grommets to get cables into them, the grommets were refitted with RTV sealant and given an extra coat to boot.
With testing done and with the rest of the cable run to the front all was well except the cable was too short, so the aforementioned request for the extension was carried out and now had to be fitted. Now the problem begins, the plugs are male/female, and this means the extension had to be made at the camera, that is it goes inbetween the camera tail and the long run to the front camera, in other words my entire installation of the cable to the front of the car had to come out right back to the tailgate! And yes, that means cutting all the zip ties that kept the taped and insulated wires running neatly along the OE cables, the so nicely sealed grommets had to come out and all wiring pulled out so I had to start over, and that is not the worst of it. The single cable that goes to the reverse light positive is at the wrong end of the extension. I thought I could simply plug the male and female plugs and rethread the cable but no, testing shows the original wire I connected to the reverse light positive did not activate the reversing camera once the extension is fitted, I have to assume a small diode is in the cabling, it makes no sense either way, It also is not something that would bother me, there is a reversing camera in the new touchscreen head unit I recently fitted, besides I have (perhaps maybe 'had') a heavy goods vehicle licence, we never even had rear view mirrors.
So to get everything working correctly, the new extension cable which has the single wire for the reversing light connection at the wrong end...that is up near the rear door, so yes I had to run that wire backwards to the reversing lights!
Today saw the install completed and tested out good. I did use one of the USB connectors on my dashboard for power during testing but they are permanent 12v, so an ignition controlled USB connector will be fitted sometime in the next couple of weeks under the dashboard.
Thanks for keeping up, true not a great deal of progress in the whole scheme of things, but at least an insight into how a simple one banana job that would probably take up three or four hours ends up as a day and a half...plus the project remaining unfinished for a couple of weeks waiting for the correct extension cable.
Regards
Dave
, hopefully being returned around May or June? So the replacement second new oil pressure sensor arrived and gauge shows a good reading after the first new one failed to work in any way whatsoever. I didn't bother calibrating the new sensor, it is an OE unit and does the job when comparing with the under bonnet second gauge. Just a note here, by chance I found copies on the internet are now available cheap however, the calibration can be off quite considerably, (pointed out by the seller), given they can be adjusted it might be worth saving around 50% of the OE price, and in these days of thin wallets and high prices you may consider that option?
So to the dash cam installation. Readers will recall the cable for the rear section of the dual direction dash cam was too short for the 80?
I emailed the supplier and a two metre extension was sent, it was FOC bar a couple of euros for postage, so a simple matter of connecting and finishing the installation right? No fecking way!
Just in case you buy one of these Osprey systems which once installed works brilliantly you need to know something about the extension cable, it may also apply to other brands as well?
The rear camera comes with a cable 'tail' fitted with a plug, also coming from the same cable is a wire that connects to the reversing light positive, easy enough I hear you say which it is. I had done the install, fitting the camera, feeding wires through the OE grommets, and having to cut a couple of the grommets to get cables into them, the grommets were refitted with RTV sealant and given an extra coat to boot.
With testing done and with the rest of the cable run to the front all was well except the cable was too short, so the aforementioned request for the extension was carried out and now had to be fitted. Now the problem begins, the plugs are male/female, and this means the extension had to be made at the camera, that is it goes inbetween the camera tail and the long run to the front camera, in other words my entire installation of the cable to the front of the car had to come out right back to the tailgate! And yes, that means cutting all the zip ties that kept the taped and insulated wires running neatly along the OE cables, the so nicely sealed grommets had to come out and all wiring pulled out so I had to start over, and that is not the worst of it. The single cable that goes to the reverse light positive is at the wrong end of the extension. I thought I could simply plug the male and female plugs and rethread the cable but no, testing shows the original wire I connected to the reverse light positive did not activate the reversing camera once the extension is fitted, I have to assume a small diode is in the cabling, it makes no sense either way, It also is not something that would bother me, there is a reversing camera in the new touchscreen head unit I recently fitted, besides I have (perhaps maybe 'had') a heavy goods vehicle licence, we never even had rear view mirrors.
So to get everything working correctly, the new extension cable which has the single wire for the reversing light connection at the wrong end...that is up near the rear door, so yes I had to run that wire backwards to the reversing lights!
Today saw the install completed and tested out good. I did use one of the USB connectors on my dashboard for power during testing but they are permanent 12v, so an ignition controlled USB connector will be fitted sometime in the next couple of weeks under the dashboard.
Thanks for keeping up, true not a great deal of progress in the whole scheme of things, but at least an insight into how a simple one banana job that would probably take up three or four hours ends up as a day and a half...plus the project remaining unfinished for a couple of weeks waiting for the correct extension cable.
Regards
Dave
Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
- Thread starter
- #714
10/04/23 @ 284,470 Update time.
Yesterday I carried out my usual sacrificial oil change, whilst I doubt the 80 has done 15 miles since the last one, it has been in and out of the garage very many times since the last change, which was whatever months back. Starting an engine and moving the vehicle a few yards and then switching off is not good for it, and of course later in the day it goes back into the garage. Whilst not great for a petrol engine, it is not at all good for diesels, they really need to be driven some distance to warm through properly to keep them in good shape.
So my usual method, warm engine, drain oil and fit new filter, refill with 10 litres of new oil. I drove around the campo trails for around 20 minutes, unfortunately this has to be done slowly, there are all new crops around where I live, and the dust as mentioned before is like a mixture of brown and black talcum powder. Anything approaching 15 - 20 mph causes clouds of the dust, I have great respect for the farm workers out here, and certainly don't want to piss them off.
Back at the house I simply repeat the procedure, drain, refill and new filter job done! Readers have asked about the cost of using this sacrificial method, the only additional cost to me over a normal oil service is the price of a second oil filter, oddments of oil not required by customers in the past builds up and is kept in sealed containers, that is used for the 'flush', and then two new containers of oil are used to finish the job. Of note was how dirty the oil was, this is typical of short engine run times.
There was something else which readers following this thread will recall, after I had reset the mileage reading from the second hand unit to represent my vehicles actual true mileage, I also calibrated the speedometer reading with the GPS display on my new head until, and with limited patience I got it reasonably close. Yesterday though I felt I would give it another go, probably getting back to my 'Mr Picky' ways after the surgeon's took a lump of my brain out!
Anyway, it was done. I got the speedometer needle spot on with the GPS display at 20 mph, I then crossed between two fields on something resembling tarmac and went up to 30, and then 40 comparing all the time. So I can confirm my speedometer is accurate...........well as accurate as it can be, anyone who knows about GPS versus ground speed and distance calibration method will tell you no speedometer will ever be 100% perfect.
I guess I might as well finish putting the dashboard in, but something worthy of note here.
When I had the speedometer removed I had also removed the various bulbs from the rear of the unit. Now I know the fuel gauge was close to it's stop, the fuel was low as it had slowly been used up with the aforementioned short trips in and out of the garage, but of course there was no warning light as there were no bulbs. With bulbs in place the low fuel warning came on as expected, I tipped in exactly 8 litres of diesel and the light barely went out, turning the car around put it on a slight slope and the light came on. So given that the low fuel sensor is not adjustable as it is on a fixed length rod, that can at least be a reference for someone seeing the light and unsure of how much fuel is in the tank, the needle being only a 'more or less' guide, so definitely 8 litres plus.......of course YMMV.........literally!
So not a lot done, but if I do not recover my licence, and the old girl gets sold, her new owner will have a good idea of how she is/was cared for via this thread.
Thanks for keeping up,
Regards
Dave
Yesterday I carried out my usual sacrificial oil change, whilst I doubt the 80 has done 15 miles since the last one, it has been in and out of the garage very many times since the last change, which was whatever months back. Starting an engine and moving the vehicle a few yards and then switching off is not good for it, and of course later in the day it goes back into the garage. Whilst not great for a petrol engine, it is not at all good for diesels, they really need to be driven some distance to warm through properly to keep them in good shape.
So my usual method, warm engine, drain oil and fit new filter, refill with 10 litres of new oil. I drove around the campo trails for around 20 minutes, unfortunately this has to be done slowly, there are all new crops around where I live, and the dust as mentioned before is like a mixture of brown and black talcum powder. Anything approaching 15 - 20 mph causes clouds of the dust, I have great respect for the farm workers out here, and certainly don't want to piss them off.
Back at the house I simply repeat the procedure, drain, refill and new filter job done! Readers have asked about the cost of using this sacrificial method, the only additional cost to me over a normal oil service is the price of a second oil filter, oddments of oil not required by customers in the past builds up and is kept in sealed containers, that is used for the 'flush', and then two new containers of oil are used to finish the job. Of note was how dirty the oil was, this is typical of short engine run times.
There was something else which readers following this thread will recall, after I had reset the mileage reading from the second hand unit to represent my vehicles actual true mileage, I also calibrated the speedometer reading with the GPS display on my new head until, and with limited patience I got it reasonably close. Yesterday though I felt I would give it another go, probably getting back to my 'Mr Picky' ways after the surgeon's took a lump of my brain out!
Anyway, it was done. I got the speedometer needle spot on with the GPS display at 20 mph, I then crossed between two fields on something resembling tarmac and went up to 30, and then 40 comparing all the time. So I can confirm my speedometer is accurate...........well as accurate as it can be, anyone who knows about GPS versus ground speed and distance calibration method will tell you no speedometer will ever be 100% perfect.
I guess I might as well finish putting the dashboard in, but something worthy of note here.
When I had the speedometer removed I had also removed the various bulbs from the rear of the unit. Now I know the fuel gauge was close to it's stop, the fuel was low as it had slowly been used up with the aforementioned short trips in and out of the garage, but of course there was no warning light as there were no bulbs. With bulbs in place the low fuel warning came on as expected, I tipped in exactly 8 litres of diesel and the light barely went out, turning the car around put it on a slight slope and the light came on. So given that the low fuel sensor is not adjustable as it is on a fixed length rod, that can at least be a reference for someone seeing the light and unsure of how much fuel is in the tank, the needle being only a 'more or less' guide, so definitely 8 litres plus.......of course YMMV.........literally!
So not a lot done, but if I do not recover my licence, and the old girl gets sold, her new owner will have a good idea of how she is/was cared for via this thread.
Thanks for keeping up,
Regards
Dave
Last edited:
Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
- Thread starter
- #715
11/06/2023 @ 284,478, yes its true, I have done a whole eight miles in the campo tracks, whoohoo I hear you say, application for driving licence has gone in, just waiting now.
So a not so quick update, but none the less very important information.
Followers will recall I had an issue with the oil pressure gauge awhile back, a new sensor was fitted and job done. A couple of weeks sgo I noticed the gauge was showing oil pressure when the ignition was switched off. The mechanics 'thump' did not fix it. So out came the dashboard, and it seems the bi metal strip had given up. I was doing my gauge calibration 'thing' many many years ago and the needle guide jumped out of the pin, the result was the OP gauge stopped working altogether, a gentle press and the pin was back where it belonged and all was well but on this occasion no joy. Resistance was good so no issues with the windings, but the strip appears to have hardened with age? l probably helped it along as well during testing, earthing out the gauge also puts a lot of strain on the bi metalic strip.
So a member from Landcruiserclub.net in the UK sent me a second hand replacement. Having done the Raventai temperature gauge mod around ten years ago, I didn't want to use the complete assembly that was sent over to me but for testing purposes thought I would fit it anyway, a quick note it was now I found that not all of the combination oil/temp gauge modules are the same, I found a couple of differences, the main one being the one sent over doesn't fit, whilst they appear identical they are not.
Sounds worse than it really is, I am not sure what year or model the one sent to me was from, mine is a 94 HDJ80. On the module there is a plastic framework that picks up the light from the dashboard illumination, this spreads the light around the OP/TEMP gauge assembly. Well the one on my 94 is shaped different to the replacement. Beside the rev counter on my 94 is a sub PCB, the replacement gauge module has a larger frame and it fouls this PCB. I cut the framework back a little, and gently bent back some of the sub PCB components and fitted the complete replacement. But when tested the oil pressure gauge worked great, but the temperature hardly moved at all from it's stop. Despite the gauges looking identical (apart from the framework) they are not electronically either, closer inspection shows they have different part numbers, I am guessing the magnetic drive for the temperature gauge has a different resistance once powered up?
So I wanted to use my modified PCB anyway so went for the swap, I took it slow and dismantled the entire PCB, so the replacement OP gauge and my own temp gauge and PCB were fitted, this entails pulling the needles off. So all was soon done, speedo assembly fitted and started up, OP show good, but the temp gauge has gone straight to H, that is the complete reversal of what I had at the first refit.
So here is a couple of tips, the first is the magnetic drive for the temperature gauge can be fitted four ways, they appear identical but they are not. The drive has four connections for the power and magnetic poles supported in plastic, one of the four supports is shaped with a small triangle, of course you can fit the drive in four different positions, two are obviously wrong as the screw holes for the facia wont line up, this leaves just two options, the diamond shaped support must face inwards, that is pointed towards the rev counter. Now comes the fitting of the needle, the needle has a tiny metal piece in the round head where it meets the pin on the drive. You cannot simply push the needle in place, the needle needs to 'park' at the bottom of the gauge, and it is drawn there by one of the magnetic poles, the problem is when you try to fit the needle it fouls on the facia. You can faf about for an hour but the needle will never read right, for example it appears to be working, and you switch of the ignition and regardless of how long the engine had been off the needle will be attracted to the nearest magnetic pole, that is the one midway across the gauge. This is why the gauge pointer gets held midway until the engine temperature rises to a point where the needle gets forced past this magnetic pole, of course by then your engine is hotter than indicated.
So what is the easiest and most accurate way to get the needle in the right position? For the moment lay the speedo in place without the clear plastic fascia and the engine cold or lower than 30°C. Now switch on the ignition (not the engine), the gauge motor drive now allows the pin to rotate enough to allow you to fit the needle, just gently push it in place and check that needle points to one needle width below the first C mark, now switch off the ignition and the needle should drop down a couple of millimetres. As a check switch the ignition back on and check the needle moves a millimetre or two. If so gently press the needle home. It might be a good idea to drive around the block to make sure the gauge rises as expected. If all is well, then your temp gauge should be very close to midway assuming all else is OK.
Some notes.
1, Given we see different pictures of needle positions of engines running at 'normal' or midway position, and just as many not, when referenced with scangauge or whatever, this is probably because the needle has been disturbed and/or not refitted correctly in the past. With the Raventai modification my gauge reads just past the midway position or 'pole', I use a digital multimeter to check engine temperature directly from the cylinder head beside one of the securing bolts, so I can use this to confirm needle position, my HDJ80 head temperature whilst running is close to 80°C. I also use an electric PWM fan to cool my engine, so I have dashboard indication when it is on.
2, All the needles have the metal insert under the round section of the needle where it mounts, I am guessing its to prevent mixing them up during assembly with the gauges that do not need the insert, the oil pressure gauge for example, the bi metallic strip changing shape brings the needle back to rest when the engine is off, but still has the metal insert.
3, For the OP/TEMP/REV COUNTER to work, BOTH plugs at the rear left of the speedometer assembly must be connected, only three plugs are used on the manual transmissions, the fourth for the automatic versions, remember I am looking at a speedometer from a vehicle that is RHD, on mine two are needed but YMMV?
Working it all out was a bit of a strain, but I got there in the end, I know this is a long read but I think this module may be NLA, so felt content will help others who have problems in this area.
Regards,
Dave
So a not so quick update, but none the less very important information.
Followers will recall I had an issue with the oil pressure gauge awhile back, a new sensor was fitted and job done. A couple of weeks sgo I noticed the gauge was showing oil pressure when the ignition was switched off. The mechanics 'thump' did not fix it. So out came the dashboard, and it seems the bi metal strip had given up. I was doing my gauge calibration 'thing' many many years ago and the needle guide jumped out of the pin, the result was the OP gauge stopped working altogether, a gentle press and the pin was back where it belonged and all was well but on this occasion no joy. Resistance was good so no issues with the windings, but the strip appears to have hardened with age? l probably helped it along as well during testing, earthing out the gauge also puts a lot of strain on the bi metalic strip.
So a member from Landcruiserclub.net in the UK sent me a second hand replacement. Having done the Raventai temperature gauge mod around ten years ago, I didn't want to use the complete assembly that was sent over to me but for testing purposes thought I would fit it anyway, a quick note it was now I found that not all of the combination oil/temp gauge modules are the same, I found a couple of differences, the main one being the one sent over doesn't fit, whilst they appear identical they are not.
Sounds worse than it really is, I am not sure what year or model the one sent to me was from, mine is a 94 HDJ80. On the module there is a plastic framework that picks up the light from the dashboard illumination, this spreads the light around the OP/TEMP gauge assembly. Well the one on my 94 is shaped different to the replacement. Beside the rev counter on my 94 is a sub PCB, the replacement gauge module has a larger frame and it fouls this PCB. I cut the framework back a little, and gently bent back some of the sub PCB components and fitted the complete replacement. But when tested the oil pressure gauge worked great, but the temperature hardly moved at all from it's stop. Despite the gauges looking identical (apart from the framework) they are not electronically either, closer inspection shows they have different part numbers, I am guessing the magnetic drive for the temperature gauge has a different resistance once powered up?
So I wanted to use my modified PCB anyway so went for the swap, I took it slow and dismantled the entire PCB, so the replacement OP gauge and my own temp gauge and PCB were fitted, this entails pulling the needles off. So all was soon done, speedo assembly fitted and started up, OP show good, but the temp gauge has gone straight to H, that is the complete reversal of what I had at the first refit.
So here is a couple of tips, the first is the magnetic drive for the temperature gauge can be fitted four ways, they appear identical but they are not. The drive has four connections for the power and magnetic poles supported in plastic, one of the four supports is shaped with a small triangle, of course you can fit the drive in four different positions, two are obviously wrong as the screw holes for the facia wont line up, this leaves just two options, the diamond shaped support must face inwards, that is pointed towards the rev counter. Now comes the fitting of the needle, the needle has a tiny metal piece in the round head where it meets the pin on the drive. You cannot simply push the needle in place, the needle needs to 'park' at the bottom of the gauge, and it is drawn there by one of the magnetic poles, the problem is when you try to fit the needle it fouls on the facia. You can faf about for an hour but the needle will never read right, for example it appears to be working, and you switch of the ignition and regardless of how long the engine had been off the needle will be attracted to the nearest magnetic pole, that is the one midway across the gauge. This is why the gauge pointer gets held midway until the engine temperature rises to a point where the needle gets forced past this magnetic pole, of course by then your engine is hotter than indicated.
So what is the easiest and most accurate way to get the needle in the right position? For the moment lay the speedo in place without the clear plastic fascia and the engine cold or lower than 30°C. Now switch on the ignition (not the engine), the gauge motor drive now allows the pin to rotate enough to allow you to fit the needle, just gently push it in place and check that needle points to one needle width below the first C mark, now switch off the ignition and the needle should drop down a couple of millimetres. As a check switch the ignition back on and check the needle moves a millimetre or two. If so gently press the needle home. It might be a good idea to drive around the block to make sure the gauge rises as expected. If all is well, then your temp gauge should be very close to midway assuming all else is OK.
Some notes.
1, Given we see different pictures of needle positions of engines running at 'normal' or midway position, and just as many not, when referenced with scangauge or whatever, this is probably because the needle has been disturbed and/or not refitted correctly in the past. With the Raventai modification my gauge reads just past the midway position or 'pole', I use a digital multimeter to check engine temperature directly from the cylinder head beside one of the securing bolts, so I can use this to confirm needle position, my HDJ80 head temperature whilst running is close to 80°C. I also use an electric PWM fan to cool my engine, so I have dashboard indication when it is on.
2, All the needles have the metal insert under the round section of the needle where it mounts, I am guessing its to prevent mixing them up during assembly with the gauges that do not need the insert, the oil pressure gauge for example, the bi metallic strip changing shape brings the needle back to rest when the engine is off, but still has the metal insert.
3, For the OP/TEMP/REV COUNTER to work, BOTH plugs at the rear left of the speedometer assembly must be connected, only three plugs are used on the manual transmissions, the fourth for the automatic versions, remember I am looking at a speedometer from a vehicle that is RHD, on mine two are needed but YMMV?
Working it all out was a bit of a strain, but I got there in the end, I know this is a long read but I think this module may be NLA, so felt content will help others who have problems in this area.
Regards,
Dave
Last edited:
Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
- Thread starter
- #716
Well here we are, Thursday 22nd of June 2023 with one of the most important updates I have ever put up on MUD since joining over 13 years ago, I HAVE HAD MY DRIVING PRIVILEGES RETURNED!!
Those who have read and followed me over the years, hundreds of thousands I might add....or boast
, will know that until September 2021 I had run my own vehicle repair business here in Spain. There was the usual repairs to customers vehicles and of course many many modifications to improve reliability, and alsowith regards to off road vehicles increased capability.
For those who have been reading and following this thread will know that on the 2nd of September 2021 I was suddenly taken into hospital with a cancerous brain tumour on my left frontal lobe. The phrase you often hear associated with an event like this is 'it was life changing', let me tell you that phrase is an understatement!
To remove the tumour my skull was cut open from above my right eye, across my head and down level to my left earhole (I haven't included a photo, pretty scary stuff).
I entered the hospital as an active mechanic, at weekends you would find me up in the mountains with my little dog 'Cookie' camping in my 80, a month later I left hospital in a wheelchair.
I will not list the long list of post surgery complications, but but suffice to say Epilepsy has been the worst, the right side of my body has been weakened and I have dropped and smashed more crockey than you can imagine. I still suffer from occasional bouts of Broca's Aphasia, it manifests itself as a sort of tourettes? Friends and family, have been very understanding, and it has become less as the time has passed, but when with no reason and absolutely no warning at all, you call one of those seriously good friends a bastard or worse. On one ocassion I called a really good friend a c*nt, not a word I use in my typical daily conversations, but this time it was during a simple friendly game of cards, then you know your not 'right in the head'.....literally! To add to my horror that friend is a female pensioner! Being such a good friend along with her husband, they have been more than instrumental in running me to and from various hospitals for scans, additional surgery and so forth, I rained down apology after apology, bought flowers ect, but whilst she and her husband dismissed it without a thought, here am I still reliving that evening nearly a year later! There has been enormous support from all around me including long term customers, and in particular a good and very close friend called Ana, an American woman who speaks many languages, American English, and English from the UK (thats the proper English ), Spanish, French, German, Italian....oh and throw in some Chinese, Arabic and Russian, what a flash bitch! But her help is beyond measure!
And of course thanks to the Spanish health service which is brilliant, everyone from a desk clerk to the surgeon and his team who removed the tumour, to date the last MRI showed no signs of more cancer cell growth.
Anyway, that's enough, should this post be included in my 80 'build'? Personally I say yes, it proves that events like this brings out your real friends, depression can set in very quickly if you let it, I had low times but rose above them, my positive attitude and continued 'need' to carry out light repairs and modifications to my 80 helped keep me busy, my long term view to be back out campimg in her with friends in their various Land Cruisers.
Saturday I will start to prepare my 80 for the yearly inspection, having not driven a vehicle in 22 months I cannot wait to get back behind the wheel!
Many thanks for following this thread.
Regards
Dave
Those who have read and followed me over the years, hundreds of thousands I might add....or boast
, will know that until September 2021 I had run my own vehicle repair business here in Spain. There was the usual repairs to customers vehicles and of course many many modifications to improve reliability, and alsowith regards to off road vehicles increased capability.For those who have been reading and following this thread will know that on the 2nd of September 2021 I was suddenly taken into hospital with a cancerous brain tumour on my left frontal lobe. The phrase you often hear associated with an event like this is 'it was life changing', let me tell you that phrase is an understatement!
To remove the tumour my skull was cut open from above my right eye, across my head and down level to my left earhole (I haven't included a photo, pretty scary stuff).
I entered the hospital as an active mechanic, at weekends you would find me up in the mountains with my little dog 'Cookie' camping in my 80, a month later I left hospital in a wheelchair.
I will not list the long list of post surgery complications, but but suffice to say Epilepsy has been the worst, the right side of my body has been weakened and I have dropped and smashed more crockey than you can imagine.
I still suffer from occasional bouts of Broca's Aphasia, it manifests itself as a sort of tourettes? Friends and family, have been very understanding, and it has become less as the time has passed, but when with no reason and absolutely no warning at all, you call one of those seriously good friends a bastard or worse. On one ocassion I called a really good friend a c*nt, not a word I use in my typical daily conversations, but this time it was during a simple friendly game of cards, then you know your not 'right in the head'.....literally! To add to my horror that friend is a female pensioner! Being such a good friend along with her husband, they have been more than instrumental in running me to and from various hospitals for scans, additional surgery and so forth, I rained down apology after apology, bought flowers ect, but whilst she and her husband dismissed it without a thought, here am I still reliving that evening nearly a year later! There has been enormous support from all around me including long term customers, and in particular a good and very close friend called Ana, an American woman who speaks many languages, American English, and English from the UK (thats the proper English ), Spanish, French, German, Italian....oh and throw in some Chinese, Arabic and Russian, what a flash bitch! But her help is beyond measure!And of course thanks to the Spanish health service which is brilliant, everyone from a desk clerk to the surgeon and his team who removed the tumour, to date the last MRI showed no signs of more cancer cell growth.
Anyway, that's enough, should this post be included in my 80 'build'? Personally I say yes, it proves that events like this brings out your real friends, depression can set in very quickly if you let it, I had low times but rose above them, my positive attitude and continued 'need' to carry out light repairs and modifications to my 80 helped keep me busy, my long term view to be back out campimg in her with friends in their various Land Cruisers.
Saturday I will start to prepare my 80 for the yearly inspection, having not driven a vehicle in 22 months I cannot wait to get back behind the wheel!
Many thanks for following this thread.
Regards
Dave
Last edited:
FMC80
SILVER Star
Congratulations, Dave! What an incredible journey! Thank you for sharing it with us. I don’t know about Spain but here in the US, ladies dig scars. You’re in good company, we’re all glad you’re better and we look forward to your first drive back in your cruiser. Let’s see some pictures of you driving!
Congratulations and thank you for your complete and thorough email on a security system for my HDJ81. Post up some pictures of your 80 in the beautiful Spanish weather!
Excellent update Dave, it gave me great pleasure to read this morning!
Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
- Thread starter
- #720
24/06/2023 @284,501 miles Update:
I gave the 80 the once over this morning and decided she was fit for the 'ITV' or yearly inspection in Spain. Remembering I had fitted levelling motors in the headlights, I rechecked the images with the usual 'chalk on wall' method. And of course the number plate lights, a sort of joke at previous inspection times, one always had an habit of failing....but not always the same one! A mechanic's 'thump' always fixed that for the inspector. During my down time I had replaced them with LED styles designed specifically for the 80, these complete units are the exact size, just a couple of connectors needed to make the installation easy enough. Apart from a slight concern that the right side handbrake was not pulling up to the same strength as the left I went for it.
Well I am pleased to say she passed, not the usual 100% that I enjoy though, the right wheel handbrake was down on strength but within limits, the top of the engine was damp from engine oil but not dripping, this appears to be the valve cover gasket, not an issue to be concerned about, and the white background on the rear number plate was losing its reflective background.
So I guess not a bad day assuming you don't count around ten wasp stings I got on my hand when watering the terrace plants this morning!
A couple of other minor issues, the A/C is not as cool as it should be, and the bulb in the dashboard that shows the right indicator is switched on is not working.
Thanks all for keeping up.
Regards
Dave
I gave the 80 the once over this morning and decided she was fit for the 'ITV' or yearly inspection in Spain. Remembering I had fitted levelling motors in the headlights, I rechecked the images with the usual 'chalk on wall' method. And of course the number plate lights, a sort of joke at previous inspection times, one always had an habit of failing....but not always the same one! A mechanic's 'thump' always fixed that for the inspector. During my down time I had replaced them with LED styles designed specifically for the 80, these complete units are the exact size, just a couple of connectors needed to make the installation easy enough. Apart from a slight concern that the right side handbrake was not pulling up to the same strength as the left I went for it.
Well I am pleased to say she passed, not the usual 100% that I enjoy though, the right wheel handbrake was down on strength but within limits, the top of the engine was damp from engine oil but not dripping, this appears to be the valve cover gasket, not an issue to be concerned about, and the white background on the rear number plate was losing its reflective background.
So I guess not a bad day assuming you don't count around ten wasp stings I got on my hand when watering the terrace plants this morning!
A couple of other minor issues, the A/C is not as cool as it should be, and the bulb in the dashboard that shows the right indicator is switched on is not working.
Thanks all for keeping up.
Regards
Dave
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