1FZ to 1HZ swap (1 Viewer)

[Gerry McGerry]

Tunnel is now cut out and I've laid the original tunnel from my old 80 in place, cross member bolted up into place. If everything keeps going this smoothly I should be test driving it this weekend, not bad for 4 weekends. After keeping bits for my 80, selling stuff and trading a few things the whole build including the vehicle purchase should be under $5000 including paint.

If I can't get the superglow working today, I'm giving up and going with a manual setup. Can anyone tell me if I've got this right?

- Retain original glow relay on inner fender.
- Trigger relay with switch powered by the glow light, which also grounds out the glow light.
- Swap to ~11v plugs.

 

[Gerry McGerry]

Not the best photos, but there we go.

1HZ + H150 out, a lot lighter than the 1FZ with auto hanging off the back. Hard to see but the tires on the white 80 are dead flat, 4"coils with no weight on them are too tall for my crane. No idea how I got it out without hitting the bonnet.

1HZ in, like a bought one. Clutch line got a bit bent out of shape, my mistake, but still works.
No photo's of clutch pedal install, no different to any other thread on here about it.

Tunnel before cut, after & with everything installed properly. Very glad I cut the tunnel out of the original car, makes it so much easier. All painted and sealed up, I trust it will hold up through water crossings just fine.

Need to source a set of carpets for a manual, not gonna bother finding or making a shifter surround, other plans for that you'll see later.

 

[Gerry McGerry]

Tunnel graft from underneath, that's just white sika, not light.

Cross member mounted for now as per this thread: 80 Series H151F 5 Speed Manual Transmission Swap - Includes RHD HDJ81 & LHD FZJ80 - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/80-series-h151f-5-speed-manual-transmission-swap-includes-rhd-hdj81-lhd-fzj80.853565/page-4

200mm M10 bolts, drilled through top of chassis rail. Captive nuts will be welded in and the bracket will be moved when it's in at paint, I don't think this solution will ever pass rego inspection in Aus, but it works fine for now. For anyone who does use this method in future, head down to your local bolt specialist and get 180mm bolts, you can see the 200mm bolts juuuust touching the floor pan. Not an issue sitting in the drive way, but I would expect damage when the body is being thrown around on a trail. Frame rail is 150mm, add an extra 10mm for washers and cross member, 180mm should be fine.

 

[Junior L]

Tunnel graft from underneath, that's just white sika, not light.

View attachment 3453681

View attachment 3453682

Cross member mounted for now as per this thread: 80 Series H151F 5 Speed Manual Transmission Swap - Includes RHD HDJ81 & LHD FZJ80 - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/80-series-h151f-5-speed-manual-transmission-swap-includes-rhd-hdj81-lhd-fzj80.853565/page-4

200mm M10 bolts, drilled through top of chassis rail. Captive nuts will be welded in and the bracket will be moved when it's in at paint, I don't think this solution will ever pass rego inspection in Aus, but it works fine for now. For anyone who does use this method in future, head down to your local bolt specialist and get 180mm bolts, you can see the 200mm bolts juuuust touching the floor pan. Not an issue sitting in the drive way, but I would expect damage when the body is being thrown around on a trail. Frame rail is 150mm, add an extra 10mm for washers and cross member,

Tunnel graft from underneath, that's just white sika, not light.

View attachment 3453681

View attachment 3453682

Cross member mounted for now as per this thread: 80 Series H151F 5 Speed Manual Transmission Swap - Includes RHD HDJ81 & LHD FZJ80 - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/80-series-h151f-5-speed-manual-transmission-swap-includes-rhd-hdj81-lhd-fzj80.853565/page-4

200mm M10 bolts, drilled through top of chassis rail. Captive nuts will be welded in and the bracket will be moved when it's in at paint, I don't think this solution will ever pass rego inspection in Aus, but it works fine for now. For anyone who does use this method in future, head down to your local bolt specialist and get 180mm bolts, you can see the 200mm bolts juuuust touching the floor pan. Not an issue sitting in the drive way, but I would expect damage when the body is being thrown around on a trail. Frame rail is 150mm, add an extra 10mm for washers and cross member, 180mm should be fine.

View attachment 3453680

Any update?? Can't wait to see how you do your wiring.

 

[Gerry McGerry]

Any update?? Can't wait to see how you do your wiring.

I've had some friends over from Canada, been busy nursing my liver back to good health. If you have any specific questions I'd be happy to help you out.

Everything is back in place, I'll try to get some photos of the wiring in the morning. I was lucky to have the original cowl harness as well so it's mostly just repinning stuff behind the cluster and at the main engine plug. Full fluid flush tomorrow, time for a test drive.

 

[Gerry McGerry]

Can't wait to see how you do your wiring.

OK, all engine related wiring is finished. Some of this is poorly worded, it's been a long day. Photo's aren't great, from a day or two ago.

I stripped the donor cowl harness and depinned everything I wanted to keep. For the cluster I kept speed signal, tacho, water temp, oil pressure, oil level, CDL signal, charge & glow light wires. The original pins in the plugs into the cluster were depinned where necessary and repinned with everything from the 1HZ engine harness. The removed pins got heatshrink to avoid shorting anywhere. Speed and tach gauges were replaced with the gauges from the donor car, all works perfectly. All wires from the plugs behind the glove box to the cluster were taped together and run through split conduit, should last another 30 years.

The alternator is on the opposite side of the bay for the 1HZ (RHD drivers side). I still had the engine bay harness, stripped the alt plug wires from it and spliced them into the new cars harness, tape & split tube all hidden in the rad support behind the hood latch. You'd never know it wasn't original. The charge system doesn't run through the 1HZ harness, so I ignored it at first, buuuuut the glow system needs a signal from the cluster charge light to know the engine isn't running. That caused me some issues, all resolved now. I know superglow is awesome till it isn't, but it's working perfectly now. If it ain't broke...

The CDL light (now a "4WD" light, factory part time) is also spliced to the engine harness to tell the diff. lock ECU the centre diff. is locked, Fr & Rr lockers should work now. Some off this could have been done at the plugs behind the glove box, but space is limited to do a good solder there. With the cluster removed there's plenty of room to do a good clean job.

The glow system is basically untouched, it's all part of the same harness, just new ground points. Same goes for the starter relay. Those two relays are mounted near the AC condensate drain, for now.

The plug for the cowl harness of the body (not the harness from the donor) was depinned for ignition signal, start signal & reverse signal. Repinned into the new harness, no dramas.

Again, if you have any specific questions I'm happy to help out. I'll aim to get some photo's of everything tomorrow now that it's all finalised. I'd highly suggest sourcing a cowl harness to use for this swap, it just looks and works like factory.

Really hard to get a photo of this, the empty plug on the left went to the 1FZ harness, I haven't touched that. The empty one of the right (IH1) is the one I sourced start and ignition from. The two in the centre are from the donor car. All of that is now in conduit, looks real clean. Pre heat timer is tucked up behind the factory stereo amp. Every wire was tagged like you see for reverse there, definitely worth doing.

As for the build as a whole, I'm almost there. A bit of work with heater hoses and a new heater tap, she should be ready for coolant tomorrow, hopefully. New power steering hoses are in, clutch needs a bleed. All filters replaced, fresh engine, trans, transfer and diff oils, swapped on my steel rims with 33"s, a hoopless bar and a fresh exhaust. I'll have to sort out the snorkel too, it's not hooked up to the intake at all, factory set up is still in there, no idea. I'm aiming to drive this one to get paint in about two weeks when the other project is ready to come home from paint at the same place.

I really don't want to sell it now.

 

[Junior L]

OK, all engine related wiring is finished. Some of this is poorly worded, it's been a long day. Photo's aren't great, from a day or two ago.

I stripped the donor cowl harness and depinned everything I wanted to keep. For the cluster I kept speed signal, tacho, water temp, oil pressure, oil level, CDL signal, charge & glow light wires. The original pins in the plugs into the cluster were depinned where necessary and repinned with everything from the 1HZ engine harness. The removed pins got heatshrink to avoid shorting anywhere. Speed and tach gauges were replaced with the gauges from the donor car, all works perfectly. All wires from the plugs behind the glove box to the cluster were taped together and run through split conduit, should last another 30 years.

The alternator is on the opposite side of the bay for the 1HZ (RHD drivers side). I still had the engine bay harness, stripped the alt plug wires from it and spliced them into the new cars harness, tape & split tube all hidden in the rad support behind the hood latch. You'd never know it wasn't original. The charge system doesn't run through the 1HZ harness, so I ignored it at first, buuuuut the glow system needs a signal from the cluster charge light to know the engine isn't running. That caused me some issues, all resolved now. I know superglow is awesome till it isn't, but it's working perfectly now. If it ain't broke...

The CDL light (now a "4WD" light, factory part time) is also spliced to the engine harness to tell the diff. lock ECU the centre diff. is locked, Fr & Rr lockers should work now. Some off this could have been done at the plugs behind the glove box, but space is limited to do a good solder there. With the cluster removed there's plenty of room to do a good clean job.

The glow system is basically untouched, it's all part of the same harness, just new ground points. Same goes for the starter relay. Those two relays are mounted near the AC condensate drain, for now.

The plug for the cowl harness of the body (not the harness from the donor) was depinned for ignition signal, start signal & reverse signal. Repinned into the new harness, no dramas.

Again, if you have any specific questions I'm happy to help out. I'll aim to get some photo's of everything tomorrow now that it's all finalised. I'd highly suggest sourcing a cowl harness to use for this swap, it just looks and works like factory.

Really hard to get a photo of this, the empty plug on the left went to the 1FZ harness, I haven't touched that. The empty one of the right (IH1) is the one I sourced start and ignition from. The two in the centre are from the donor car. All of that is now in conduit, looks real clean. Pre heat timer is tucked up behind the factory stereo amp. Every wire was tagged like you see for reverse there, definitely worth doing.

View attachment 3469321


As for the build as a whole, I'm almost there. A bit of work with heater hoses and a new heater tap, she should be ready for coolant tomorrow, hopefully. New power steering hoses are in, clutch needs a bleed. All filters replaced, fresh engine, trans, transfer and diff oils, swapped on my steel rims with 33"s, a hoopless bar and a fresh exhaust. I'll have to sort out the snorkel too, it's not hooked up to the intake at all, factory set up is still in there, no idea. I'm aiming to drive this one to get paint in about two weeks when the other project is ready to come home from paint at the same place.

I really don't want to sell it now.

View attachment 3469319

View attachment 3469320

This is one of the best and clearly explained swap in terms of wiring, i ever come across in this forum. Thank you so much.

 

[tmxmotorsports]

Ate you using the shifter console?

 

[Gerry McGerry]

Ate you using the shifter console?

I had a plan to make the auto console work but I might just get some carpet from a manual instead.

 

[tmxmotorsports]

I'm looking for the manual transmission console I went this route without it but customer would really like the console to finish it off this is an ls with a nv4500 in it.

 

[tmxmotorsports]

I'm looking for the manual transmission console I went this route without it but customer would really like the console to finish it off this is an ls with a nv4500 in it.

View attachment 3469830

View attachment 3469831

Also got new carpet from @dnp

 

[Gerry McGerry]

I've found a used RHD manual console, $500 USD, no thanks.

The centre console fridge has been cut up at the front to fit a ridiculous cup holder, that will get covered with a UHF or other accessory.

 

[Gerry McGerry]

Also got new carpet from @dnp

I'm putting new carpet in my other 80 now, but it's a storage unit for the other cars most of the time. With insulation and some extra padding around the edges the carpet is coming together nicely. Sewing a new <'95 headliner is proving painful, but it's getting there.

 

[Gerry McGerry]

This is one of the best and clearly explained swap in terms of wiring, i ever come across in this forum. Thank you so much.

Thanks pal, I'll draw some basic diagrams up for it as well.

 

[Junior L]

Thanks pal, I'll draw some basic diagrams up for it as well.

Okay, thats great.

 

[Ribz0]

Bought the VX home today with my mates 40th FT powered 80, very nice.

Will start removing small stuff this week, engine and drivetrain will get dropped on the weekend, with enough time we can throw the 1HZ - H150F - HF1A combo in. During the week I'll finish the harness, I'll draw up a diagram of what I've kept and what gets spliced in to the petrol harness.

Photo shows the original cowl harness on the table, everything to run the 1HZ (inc. factory super glow setup) on the floor below. Super simple harness, replace certain pins in the plugs at the cluster, swap starter trigger wire into this harness and she should be ready to roll.
View attachment 3438778
View attachment 3438777

I cant think of better place to do wiring than the kitchen table either... I don't know what the Mr's problem is...

 

[Gerry McGerry]

I cant think of better place to do wiring than the kitchen table either... I don't know what the Mr's problem is...

Currently covered with BMW parts and a vinyl headliner I'm sewing for the white 80.

For anyone waiting for updates on the 1HZ swap, I'm self employed & work just went tits up weeks before Christmas. Being the smart bloke I am I hemorrhaged every cent I had into another car. The swap itself is essentially done, wiring is finished and working like factory, drives perfectly, new exhaust is on it's way, but the rest of the build will be next year now.

 

[Gerry McGerry]

Got an invite to do a Victorian High Country trip in 6 weeks. Figured I need to finish this thing, spend a week wheeling it interstate & then bring it home to sell.

Runs and drives well, everything works like factory. Only thing I need is a 1HZ AC bracket and then I can show people my ice cube making centre console like the VX elitist I always dreamed of being while I had my DX.

Bought a welder and taught myself how to weld, should have done it years ago. Cargo area floor was cut out to fit the LPG tank. Cut out the floor of an 80 wrecking locally and melted her in, pretty happy with the result for my first attempt melting metal.

Winch installed, rear drawers, fresh carpet, retrimmed door cards, F+R wheel bearings & knuckles, lights wired in, new rotors all round, new exhaust, sub tank reinstalled, all new lighting with LED's throughout & loads of other bits and pieces fixed up. New coils and shocks going in this weekend, anything with a ball joint is being replaced, all the fancy controls arms and panhards being swapped over from my other 80, fresh rubber on they way. Power seat gears were munched, new gears being 3D printed now.

Making a shift console out of the original auto console. Corflute & vinyl, does the job, hides some wiring and UHF bits.

Paint is shot, it's getting a coat of raptor in Quicksand. Sydney doesn't need any more sandy taupe. Many photos to come over the weekend, aiming for registration in 2 weeks, paint will happen post rego.