1fz-fe Oil Consumption Issue

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Your B1S1 O2 sensor is reading stupid rich. It should be cycling around 450 mV rather than the 750 shown.

That will cause the ECM to pull fuel in efforts to lean it out. I'd bet money that your long term fuel trim numbers are reflecting efforts to lean it out hence a drastic loss of power.
MVIMG_20190702_195437.jpg
 
so I'll have to re-check the timing, I just actually put it on one of the pages from my ultra gauge it's labelled "timing advance" it is reading a value of 5.00 when idling.
...

That only shows how much the ECU adjusts from base, base needs to be set with a light and the jumper in.
 
No major oil leaks? I'd check the pcv as well.
 
*Update*

Just received a call from the shop and this is the information given so far.

EGR tested- flow good and is working.
Temp sensor for EGR is corroded and needs replacing.
Test showed (2) monitors incomplete. (i'm not sure what that means but was told it would probably be fine one system is warm and operating)

I have some blow-by when the idle is brought up. Faint blue smoke at exhaust.

I was also told not to run 10-30 Synthetic. They recommend 20-50 conventional, even if i spend time in the snow in the winter. The important thing is that i start it daily if i'm in a cold climate for extended periods of time. I quote "these engines weren't designed to run synthetic, since synthetic has smaller molecules they work their way into places that Toyota didn't design for also causing leaks. Stick with conventional and change it every 3500mi"

They are still going to diagnose further today and proceed with a leak-down test. I should have more information by end of the day.

Stand-by.
 
Eh that is horsesh*t, the engine will run synthetic fine if the seals are in good shape. If they are starting to fail, yes synthetic will leak by more easily. It has nothing to do with Toyota not engineering the engines to not run on synthetic. It has to do with the engines being old and the seals being old.

*Update*

Just received a call from the shop and this is the information given so far.

EGR tested- flow good and is working.
Temp sensor for EGR is corroded and needs replacing.
Test showed (2) monitors incomplete. (i'm not sure what that means but was told it would probably be fine one system is warm and operating)

I have some blow-by when the idle is brought up. Faint blue smoke at exhaust.

I was also told not to run 10-30 Synthetic. They recommend 20-50 conventional, even if i spend time in the snow in the winter. The important thing is that i start it daily if i'm in a cold climate for extended periods of time. I quote "these engines weren't designed to run synthetic, since synthetic has smaller molecules they work their way into places that Toyota didn't design for also causing leaks. Stick with conventional and change it every 3500mi"

They are still going to diagnose further today and proceed with a leak-down test. I should have more information by end of the day.

Stand-by.
 
Data point - just got back from a 2500 mile road trip running Mobil 1 10w40 high mileage synthetic, engine is at 319k miles. I didn't have to add any oil during the trip. I know that there was a small amount of leakage and consumption but it was minimal. With the mountain passes and high elevation I spent a fair bit of time running 2nd and 3rd gear at 3-4k RPM, even a stretch in 1st gear at 4200rpm to make it up a steep hill.
 
Data point - just got back from a 2500 mile road trip running Mobil 1 10w40 high mileage synthetic, engine is at 319k miles. I didn't have to add any oil during the trip. I know that there was a small amount of leakage and consumption but it was minimal. With the mountain passes and high elevation I spent a fair bit of time running 2nd and 3rd gear at 3-4k RPM, even a stretch in 1st gear at 4200rpm to make it up a steep hill.
Noice! Thanks for the info. Still awaiting leakdown test results.
 
*Update #2*

TLC called back - Leak down test told them that cylinders #5 & #6 were at 50%
Cylinders 1,2, tested OK 3,4 tested GOOD.

He advised it was time for a rebuild.

I called back to ask about the loss of power and the rpm range not being full, he said that in fact the timing was off and the dizzy needed to be re-clocked. I told him to please do that which he said is about another 1.5 hrs labor. That should hopefully solve my issue with not running correctly.

Consumption however is a separate issue.

I asked if he would change the oil while it was there to a heavier weight that he recommended 20-50. He said "nope, your motor based off the leak down is in critical condition and if we put heavier oil in there, it may cause the rings to break."

Uhmmm - i was saying it would have been nice to know the compression on those cylinders, however he stated that i could have good compression but that wouldn't matter since the leak down didn't pass. "you might have good compression however those cylinders wont hold that air overnight, the next day it would be down at 0"

Just because i was curious, i asked and they charge approx. 20k to rebuild the motor.

I assume they will do the timing on Monday as he said "well do the timing and take the weekend and give me a call on Monday and let me know what you'd like to do"

:bang:
 
I've been a Master Tech since back before your truck was built.

You're being taken to the cleaners. Everything from "cylinders won't hold air overnight" to "rings to break" to 1.5 hours to reclock the distributor.

I suggest you terminate your relationship with that shop and find another.
 
*Update #2*

TLC called back - Leak down test told them that cylinders #5 & #6 were at 50%
Cylinders 1,2, tested OK 3,4 tested GOOD.

He advised it was time for a rebuild.

I called back to ask about the loss of power and the rpm range not being full, he said that in fact the timing was off and the dizzy needed to be re-clocked. I told him to please do that which he said is about another 1.5 hrs labor. That should hopefully solve my issue with not running correctly.

Consumption however is a separate issue.

I asked if he would change the oil while it was there to a heavier weight that he recommended 20-50. He said "nope, your motor based off the leak down is in critical condition and if we put heavier oil in there, it may cause the rings to break."

Uhmmm - i was saying it would have been nice to know the compression on those cylinders, however he stated that i could have good compression but that wouldn't matter since the leak down didn't pass. "you might have good compression however those cylinders wont hold that air overnight, the next day it would be down at 0"

Just because i was curious, i asked and they charge approx. 20k to rebuild the motor.

I assume they will do the timing on Monday as he said "well do the timing and take the weekend and give me a call on Monday and let me know what you'd like to do"

:bang:

I called these guys when I first picked up my 80 over a year ago. They said don't do any suspension modifications, even an OME 2.5" lift. They def didn't want to install the Slee 4" kit.

The dude on phone sounded pretty apathetic, borderline dismissive, which turned me off to Jonathan Ward and his entire business setup. I felt like I was calling the Rodeo Dr Rolex dealer checking on steel ceramic Daytona availability at MSRP. First impressions go a long way with me.

But now to hear they charge nearly a new Rolex Daytona to do a 1FZ rebuild? lmao gtfo

It's crazy how there's literally 0 LC 80 shops in the greater Los Angeles metro of 10m humans, the world's automotive capital where you see Porsche Taycans in disguise driving up and down Lincoln Blvd on the reg. :D

P.S. If you want a good shop rec in LA, PM me
 
Last edited:
I called these guys when I first picked up my 80 over a year ago. They said don't do any suspension modifications, even an OME 2.5" lift. They def didn't want to install the Slee 4" kit.

The dude on phone sounded pretty apathetic, borderline dismissive, which turned me off to Jonathan Ward and his entire business setup. I felt like I was calling the Rodeo Dr Rolex dealer checking on steel ceramic Daytona availability at MSRP. First impressions go a long way with me.

But now to hear they charge nearly a new Rolex Daytona to do a 1FZ rebuild? lmao gtfo

It's crazy how there's literally 0 LC 80 shops in the greater Los Angeles metro of 10m humans, the world's automotive capital where you see Porsche Taycans in disguise driving up and down Lincoln Blvd on the reg. :D

P.S. If you want a good shop rec in LA, PM me
i drive Lincoln daily, neighbor!
 
Just to add my info.

I would burned through 1qt of Mobile1 full synthetic 5w30 every 200-300 miles and have smoke on startup or long idle take off.

Switched to 5w40 Turbo diesel Mobile1 full synthetic with higher levels of Zinc, and now have zero smoke and zero oil loss so far.
 
*Update #2*

TLC called back - Leak down test told them that cylinders #5 & #6 were at 50%
Cylinders 1,2, tested OK 3,4 tested GOOD.

He advised it was time for a rebuild.

I called back to ask about the loss of power and the rpm range not being full, he said that in fact the timing was off and the dizzy needed to be re-clocked. I told him to please do that which he said is about another 1.5 hrs labor. That should hopefully solve my issue with not running correctly.

Consumption however is a separate issue.

I asked if he would change the oil while it was there to a heavier weight that he recommended 20-50. He said "nope, your motor based off the leak down is in critical condition and if we put heavier oil in there, it may cause the rings to break."

Uhmmm - i was saying it would have been nice to know the compression on those cylinders, however he stated that i could have good compression but that wouldn't matter since the leak down didn't pass. "you might have good compression however those cylinders wont hold that air overnight, the next day it would be down at 0"

Just because i was curious, i asked and they charge approx. 20k to rebuild the motor.

I assume they will do the timing on Monday as he said "well do the timing and take the weekend and give me a call on Monday and let me know what you'd like to do"

:bang:


I would try to get the truck out of there today! I wouldn't let them have it over the weekend. At this point you could take it to your local Toyota dealer and have the oil changed and timing set.
 
...
I asked if he would change the oil while it was there to a heavier weight that he recommended 20-50. He said "nope, your motor based off the leak down is in critical condition and if we put heavier oil in there, it may cause the rings to break."

Bull s***, even if it were true, according to them, the rings are already bad, so what difference would it make?

...
Uhmmm - i was saying it would have been nice to know the compression on those cylinders, however he stated that i could have good compression but that wouldn't matter since the leak down didn't pass. "you might have good compression however those cylinders wont hold that air overnight, the next day it would be down at 0"
...

Bull s***, both compression and leak down are interpretive, but if one is low, the other should follow. One confirms the other, personally prefer compression, less likely to be mistaken. No motor, even the most carefully built, will ever hold pressure overnight,,, ever,,, even holding significant pressure for a minute is unrealistic.

So, 50% loss, where is it leaking from, rings, intake, exhaust valves, etc? This is the biggest reason to do a leak down, determining where the compression loss is.

You are being whizzed on and told it's raining! :hillbilly:
 
Bull s***, even if it were true, according to them, the rings are already bad, so what difference would it make?



Bull s***, both compression and leak down are interpretive, but if one is low, the other should follow. One confirms the other, personally prefer compression, less likely to be mistaken. No motor, even the most carefully built, will ever hold pressure overnight,,, ever,,, even holding significant pressure for a minute is unrealistic.

So, 50% loss, where is it leaking from, rings, intake, exhaust valves, etc? This is the biggest reason to do a leak down, determining where the compression loss is.

You are being whizzed on and told it's raining! :hillbilly:
that's the thing, I'm not a mechanic by trade but I do have an understanding and this information/diagnosis isn't adding up to me either.

I believe steps were missed and since they went straight to a leakdown, used a scope to hear air from the dip stick tube w/out knowing compression..

I was under the impression a leak down will determine exact area and the cause. He said "rings are bad 5 & 6" then I asked what the compression is and he said it wasn't tested but my rings could be fine but since 5 & 6 were at 50% on the leak down there was no point in going any further besides doing a re-build.

I'm going to take it for a second opinion next week. Another member advised that even if I changed the pcv before my long trip that itself could be contributing to the consumption.:meh::meh:
 
Last edited:
I was also thinking pcv. Just get a Toyota part to rule it out.
 
Black smoke on acceleration is fuel
Blue smoke on deceleration is valve seals
Blue smoke on acceleration is piston rings
Blue smoke upon acceleration from a stop sign is valve seals
White smoke on deceleration is head gasket
White smoke on acceleration is head gasket

Some oil consumption is covered up due to the catalytic converter. It will burn it off and make it invisible.

I would look at vacuum leaks, and particularly valve cover seal and spark plug tube seals that could be causing the excess oil consumption and loss of power.

Struggling to make 65 MPH on the flats indicates other more serious tuning issues. What is your past maintenance? Spark Plugs, Wires, Dist. cap and rotor, vacuum hoses and leaks, fuel filters and sock?

Have you confirmed your O2 sensors?

You do not mention the year, as that can affect some of the diagnosis based on OBD1 or OBD2.
Interestingly I recently swapped out both Cruisers air filters and wow the SC'd 80 really woke up!
Just a hunch but man I cant fathom how I neglected such a simple thing.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom