1FZ-FE ARP Head Studs Installed with Part# (1 Viewer)

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Do not use a copper head gasket unless the motor is for racing where it will be regularly pulled down and do minimal miles.

To use a copper gasket you must also have the head o-ringed and the block receiver grooved - the combination of o-ring and groove locks the copper gasket in place, otherwise they slowly get pushed out by combustion pressure. O-rings and grooves are especially needed in the 1FZ as it runs an aluminium head (less rigid than a cast iron), there are not stiffer aftermarket heads available as there are for domestic V8s and there are less bolts per cyl than some domestic motors.



Copper gaskets used in a daily driver or something that does a lot of miles are a big no-no.

There is nothing wrong with the combustion sealing of course, but it is the water jacket sealing that is an issue. Over time it will leak.

Unless you are planning to run well up over the 1000 hp mark there is absolutely no need for anything more than a set of off the shelf 2JZ head studs and a cometic gasket. If you are planning a big HP setup then copper gasket and o-rings are the go but no stud change is required. I have gone to set of 2JZ L19* material studs this time around, but this build will be subjected to up to 40psi boost. Mind you I have only done that as an extra precaution - It's quite possible that the standard ARP 2000 material could still be sufficient.....

(and just a tip for Assassin_Offroad - when installing a copper gasket into an 1FZ be sure to cut off the section of the gasket that runs around the top of the timing chain cover. Aluminium expands more than cast iron with heat and the timing chain cover is doweled to the engine. When a copper gasket is used there is no give between the cover and the front of the head when the cover expands upward as the motor warms up. This causes significant upward pressure on the front of the head around the timing chain cavity. This compromises the combustion seal around the front of cyl #1. When assembling the motor just chop that piece of the gasket off and instead just run a bead of sealant around the top of the cover instead. Don't tighten the small bolts in this area at all - preferably just leave them out - all they do is clamp the gasket and stop oil leaking out, and assembling with sealant in this are does just the same with out
needing any bolts.)

*The ARP "L19" material delivers an additional 21% clamping force for the same diameter stud as the ARP '2000' material - not cheap though!
 
Last edited:
MS-75 said:
Do not use a copper head gasket unless the motor is for racing where it will be regularly pulled down and do minimal miles.

To use a copper gasket you must also have the head o-ringed and the block receiver grooved - the combination of o-ring and groove locks the copper gasket in place, otherwise they slowly get pushed out by combustion pressure. O-rings and grooves are especially needed in the 1FZ as it runs an aluminium head (less rigid than a cast iron), there are not stiffer aftermarket heads available as there are for domestic V8s and there are less bolts per cyl than some domestic motors.

Copper gaskets used in a daily driver or something that does a lot of miles are a big no-no.

There is nothing wrong with the combustion sealing of course, but it is the water jacket sealing that is an issue. Over time it will leak.

Unless you are planning to run well up over the 1000 hp mark there is absolutely no need for anything more than a set of off the shelf 2JZ head studs and a cometic gasket. If you are planning a big HP setup then copper gasket and o-rings are the go but no stud change is required. I have gone to set of 2JZ L19 material studs this time around, but this build will be subjected to up to 40psi boost. Mind you I have only done that as an extra precaution - It's quite possible that the standard ARP 2000 material could still be sufficient.....

(and just a tip for Assassin_Offroad - when installing a copper gasket into an 1FZ be sure to cut off the section of the gasket that runs around the top of the timing chain cover. Aluminium expands more than cast iron with heat and the timing chain cover is doweled to the engine. When a copper gasket is used there is no give between the cover and the front of the head when the cover expands upward as the motor warms up. This causes significant upward pressure on the front of the head around the timing chain cavity. This compromises the combustion seal around the front of cyl #1. When assembling the motor just chop that piece of the gasket off and instead just run a bead of sealant around the top of the cover instead. Don't tighten the small bolts in this area at all - preferably just leave them out - all they do is clamp the gasket and stop oil leaking out, and assembling with sealant in this are does just the same with out needing any bolts.)
Click to expand...

Thanks for the explanation exactly what I and think a fair few others needed.

I don't plan on 1000hp power so I won't worry about a copper gasket .
 
The one thing I will point out about a cometic gasket is that the surface finish is critical.

for the block get a decent piece of flat bar say 2inches wide, 1/2 inch thick and 8 inches long. Also grab a bunch of good quality wet and dry sand paper in varying grades - say 200 to 800. Then wrap the bar in the paper and begin sanding the top of the block, using water as well. Don't stress about it not being flat-The steel plate ensures flatness. Continue this and progress though to the finest grade , at which point it will have a beautifully smooth surface. This can be done to a block and head fresh from the machine shop, or on a block that is still in the car if you are changing to an mls gasket on a running vehicle. (for in car just turn the crank till all slugs are below the deck and pack the cyls with rags after spraying the exposed walls with oil)

You cam do the same thing with the head - big curved cutter marks in the surfaces are a weak point, especially with an mls gasket which has much less ability to deform into minor surface variations than a factory type composite gasket.

Once the surfaces are totally smooth you're good to go with a cometic type mls gasket.
 
middle east cruiser said:
Guys i asked my engine builder to give me one bolt from 1fzfe engine to compare it with ARP and get right kit for our engines but the problem is the bolt he gave to looks different from other bolts that members post .

This is what he gave to me
http://www.m5zn.com/newuploads/2014/10/15/jpg//8d84e1eacdc23f5.jpg

Why its different ?

My engine is late model 1fzfe Gulf spec .
Click to expand...
I think I understand what your asking if not, can you clarify? But
the one you posted is a oem head BOLT. The pics posted in the beginning of the thread are ARP head STUDS/nuts.
 
I know this post is over a year old but is this Land Cruiser specific or what? I used a SCE Titan ICS gasket on my 1G Talon that had no special prep to the block or head and wasn't a race motor and was also used as a daily driver for quite some time. Many others had long term success which is why I went with that gasket. It was also an iron block with an aluminum head.



MS-75 said:
Do not use a copper head gasket unless the motor is for racing where it will be regularly pulled down and do minimal miles.

To use a copper gasket you must also have the head o-ringed and the block receiver grooved - the combination of o-ring and groove locks the copper gasket in place, otherwise they slowly get pushed out by combustion pressure. O-rings and grooves are especially needed in the 1FZ as it runs an aluminium head (less rigid than a cast iron), there are not stiffer aftermarket heads available as there are for domestic V8s and there are less bolts per cyl than some domestic motors.



Copper gaskets used in a daily driver or something that does a lot of miles are a big no-no.

There is nothing wrong with the combustion sealing of course, but it is the water jacket sealing that is an issue. Over time it will leak.

Unless you are planning to run well up over the 1000 hp mark there is absolutely no need for anything more than a set of off the shelf 2JZ head studs and a cometic gasket. If you are planning a big HP setup then copper gasket and o-rings are the go but no stud change is required. I have gone to set of 2JZ L19* material studs this time around, but this build will be subjected to up to 40psi boost. Mind you I have only done that as an extra precaution - It's quite possible that the standard ARP 2000 material could still be sufficient.....

(and just a tip for Assassin_Offroad - when installing a copper gasket into an 1FZ be sure to cut off the section of the gasket that runs around the top of the timing chain cover. Aluminium expands more than cast iron with heat and the timing chain cover is doweled to the engine. When a copper gasket is used there is no give between the cover and the front of the head when the cover expands upward as the motor warms up. This causes significant upward pressure on the front of the head around the timing chain cavity. This compromises the combustion seal around the front of cyl #1. When assembling the motor just chop that piece of the gasket off and instead just run a bead of sealant around the top of the cover instead. Don't tighten the small bolts in this area at all - preferably just leave them out - all they do is clamp the gasket and stop oil leaking out, and assembling with sealant in this are does just the same with out
needing any bolts.)

*The ARP "L19" material delivers an additional 21% clamping force for the same diameter stud as the ARP '2000' material - not cheap though!
Click to expand...
 
ton504 said:
I think I understand what your asking if not, can you clarify? But
the one you posted is a oem head BOLT. The pics posted in the beginning of the thread are ARP head STUDS/nuts.
Click to expand...

Yes it is oem bolts but im thinking why dont send it to ARP and get custom made studs exactly same as oem stayle ?

Is there any advantage if i get studs + nuts ? Because i feel more comfortable if it was exactly same style but with ARP strength to run more boost .


Oem



ARP
 
"HEAD STUDS vs. BOLTS...
A TECHNICAL DISCUSSION
ARP’s factory Tech Representatives are often asked which
is better, cylinder headstuds or bolts. The answer, invariably,
depends on the installation. On many street-driven vehicles ,
where master cylinders and other items protrude into the engine
compartment, it’s probably necessary to use head bolts so that
the cylinder heads can be removed with the engine in the car .
For most applications, however, studs are recommended.
And for good reason. Using studs will make it much easier to
assemble an engine (especially a racing powerplant which must
be serviced frequently and quickly!) with the cylinder headand
gasket assured of proper alignment.
Studs also provide more accurate and consistent torque
loading. Here’s why. When you use bolts to secure the head,
the fastener is actually being “twisted” while it’s being torqued
to the proper reading. Accordingly, the bolt is reacting to two
different forces simultaneously. A stud should be installed in
a “relaxed” mode – never crank it in tightly using a jammed
nut.
If everything is right, the stud should be installed finger tight.
Then, when applying torque to the nut, the stud will stretch
only on the vertical axis. Remember, an undercut shorter stud
will have a rate similar to a longer, standard shank stud. This
provides a more even clamping force on the head. Because the
head gasket will compress upon initial torquing, make sure studs
and bolts are re-torqued after the engine has been run."

*** The last part is the crucial part that came up the last time we talked about head studs and bolts. I can almost guarantee that no one is going back in after a head gasket job and re-torquing their ARP studs on the 1FZ-FE!! If they are bravo, but I guarantee 99% are not, that is why I have been saying for the majority of users not looking for huge power the stock bolts that are torque to yield and provide some elasticity will be a better choice. I mean Toyota didn't use ARP studs, because they don't want to sell someone a new car and tell them oh yeah BTW come back in 1000 miles and give us $1200 to pull the engine apart and re-torque those head studs.***

^^^^ Just the opinion of a crazy guy. lol.
 
scottryana said:
"HEAD STUDS vs. BOLTS...
A TECHNICAL DISCUSSION
ARP’s factory Tech Representatives are often asked which
is better, cylinder headstuds or bolts. The answer, invariably,
depends on the installation. On many street-driven vehicles ,
where master cylinders and other items protrude into the engine
compartment, it’s probably necessary to use head bolts so that
the cylinder heads can be removed with the engine in the car .
For most applications, however, studs are recommended.
And for good reason. Using studs will make it much easier to
assemble an engine (especially a racing powerplant which must
be serviced frequently and quickly!) with the cylinder headand
gasket assured of proper alignment.
Studs also provide more accurate and consistent torque
loading. Here’s why. When you use bolts to secure the head,
the fastener is actually being “twisted” while it’s being torqued
to the proper reading. Accordingly, the bolt is reacting to two
different forces simultaneously. A stud should be installed in
a “relaxed” mode – never crank it in tightly using a jammed
nut.
If everything is right, the stud should be installed finger tight.
Then, when applying torque to the nut, the stud will stretch
only on the vertical axis. Remember, an undercut shorter stud
will have a rate similar to a longer, standard shank stud. This
provides a more even clamping force on the head. Because the
head gasket will compress upon initial torquing, make sure studs
and bolts are re-torqued after the engine has been run."

*** The last part is the crucial part that came up the last time we talked about head studs and bolts. I can almost guarantee that no one is going back in after a head gasket job and re-torquing their ARP studs on the 1FZ-FE!! If they are bravo, but I guarantee 99% are not, that is why I have been saying for the majority of users not looking for huge power the stock bolts that are torque to yield and provide some elasticity will be a better choice. I mean Toyota didn't use ARP studs, because they don't want to sell someone a new car and tell them oh yeah BTW come back in 1000 miles and give us $1200 to pull the engine apart and re-torque those head studs.***

^^^^ Just the opinion of a crazy guy. lol.
Click to expand...


Did it at roughly 2500 miles after the rebuild but out of habit. It's a whole lot easier on older SBC heads. :flipoff2:
 
scottryana said:
"HEAD STUDS vs. BOLTS...
A TECHNICAL DISCUSSION
ARP’s factory Tech Representatives are often asked which
is better, cylinder headstuds or bolts. The answer, invariably,
depends on the installation. On many street-driven vehicles ,
where master cylinders and other items protrude into the engine
compartment, it’s probably necessary to use head bolts so that
the cylinder heads can be removed with the engine in the car .
For most applications, however, studs are recommended.
And for good reason. Using studs will make it much easier to
assemble an engine (especially a racing powerplant which must
be serviced frequently and quickly!) with the cylinder headand
gasket assured of proper alignment.
Studs also provide more accurate and consistent torque
loading. Here’s why. When you use bolts to secure the head,
the fastener is actually being “twisted” while it’s being torqued
to the proper reading. Accordingly, the bolt is reacting to two
different forces simultaneously. A stud should be installed in
a “relaxed” mode – never crank it in tightly using a jammed
nut.
If everything is right, the stud should be installed finger tight.
Then, when applying torque to the nut, the stud will stretch
only on the vertical axis. Remember, an undercut shorter stud
will have a rate similar to a longer, standard shank stud. This
provides a more even clamping force on the head. Because the
head gasket will compress upon initial torquing, make sure studs
and bolts are re-torqued after the engine has been run."

*** The last part is the crucial part that came up the last time we talked about head studs and bolts. I can almost guarantee that no one is going back in after a head gasket job and re-torquing their ARP studs on the 1FZ-FE!! If they are bravo, but I guarantee 99% are not, that is why I have been saying for the majority of users not looking for huge power the stock bolts that are torque to yield and provide some elasticity will be a better choice. I mean Toyota didn't use ARP studs, because they don't want to sell someone a new car and tell them oh yeah BTW come back in 1000 miles and give us $1200 to pull the engine apart and re-torque those head studs.***

^^^^ Just the opinion of a crazy guy. lol.
Click to expand...

Or just go with the MLS (Cometic) and you don't have to re-torque. One and done.

Rwhat said:
Installed the Supra studs and they work perfect. Thanks MS-75
Click to expand...

Ditto
 
For anyone looking into this, I used the Supra kit and hand tightened the studs until they bottomed out. It’s not flush. Maybe a thread off.

I read a few other’s opinion and A handful of people saying it’s not the end of the world. So here is a pic for reference.

7EC31D1A-3127-4949-8BE9-0978D8C7EB60.jpeg
 
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