1999 | Bruiser - Yearly Stuff

[87warrior]

Wow. Today marks 5 years with the 100 and nearly 346k miles. Somehow I managed to put 19k miles on it in 2020, so I have put exactly 100,000 miles on this cruiser in 5 years.

This last year was quite productive!

• Installed OME 2866 rear coil springs
• Installed (used) Wet Okole seat covers on the middle row
• Replaced Batteries Plus 27F battery with Advance Auto H7 AGM
• Built and Installed a voltage booster on the Alternator Sensing fuse
• Installed LRA 40 gallon replacement main fuel tank
  • Replaced Rollover Valve
  • Replaced Rollover Valve tube assembly
  • Replaced Fuel Pump (Denso)
  • Replaced Fuel Pump gasket
  • Replaced Fuel Cap Assembly
• Installed Solar on 2nd battery
  • Sealed sunroof with Eternabond RV Roof tape
  • Rich Solar 100w flexible panel adhered to sunroof with 3M VHB tape
  • Renogy Voyager Charge controller mounted to aluminum bracket behind passenger headlight
  • 20amp circuit breaker between solar charge controller and 2nd battery
• Replaced cracked intake tube with a Tundra/Sequoia intake tube
• Installed Huracan tailgate storage lid
• Installed Raingler rear cargo net
• Removed failing SuperLift Truespeed speedometer calibrator
• Replaced Charcoal Canister
  • Replaced purge valve and pressure sensor
• Replaced rear tail lights with (used) '04 tail lights
• Installed amber cargo lights in holes left in rear pillar trim from seatbelts
• Installed Front and Rear Z36 Powerstop Brake kit, rotors and pads
• Replaced 12v socket in rear power panel with ARB fridge socket and wire
• Installed CKMA12 ARB Air compressor under hood
  • Power feed from AHC plug with jumped relay slot
  • Switched via custom CH4x4 Toyota push button
• I spent October thru December chasing down a Low RPM surging and stalling problem
  • Cleaned Crankshaft Position Sensor
  • Cleaned Sensor electrical grounds as found in EWD
  • Checked resistance of EVAP and Vapor Pressure VSV
  • Checked that Pulse Damper screw pops up when running
  • Checked that Air Filter was not plugged
  • Checked and Retorqued Spark Plugs
  • Checked for vacuum leaks with propane torch
  • Checked that sensors and plugs are secure and tight
  • Checked fuel pressure, found it was a little high
  • Replaced Fuel Pressure Regulator with new Toyota
  • Replaced TPS and Throttle Control motor with used parts that checked OK
  • Replaced MAF with new Toyota
  • Replaced EVAP VSV hose to the top of the throttle body with new Toyota
  • Replaced downstream O2 Sensors (Denso)
  • Cleaned EFI Fuse slot and replaced fuse
  • Replaced ECU (used from Mauser)
  • Inspected wire pins at ECU and discovered if Green/White wire (1 of 3 signal wires from MAF) is wiggled engine would die
  • Removed Green/Wire wire pin from ECU plug, crimped female connector and reinstalled
• Programmed 2 new Master Keys with fob (aftermarket key with 4c chip) and OEM non remote key
• Replaced rear sombrero badge with a chrome one

My solar install still allows room for the RTT on the 80/20 rack.

I used LED clearance lights for a trailer to complete the amber cargo lighting. Those little lights provide a huge amount of useful light.

I shoehorned the ARB CKMA12 compressor between the air filter box and second battery. The CH4x4 switch inside is just plain cool!

My wife and I did get out to Colorado in the fall for a week of lumbering around the Rockies.

Attempting to make the best out of diagnosing the pesky low RPM surging and stalling issue. In Kansas, our favorite color is Sunset.

The 5 years I've had with the Cruiser have been good. I have learned a lot, made some great connections and thanks to MUD, I feel like I can tackle anything on this rig. The Cruiser experience has been so good that my wife decided to trade her Subaru Outback for a 2016 200. I have also learned how awesome Partsouq is. How the heck do they get parts to me across the world faster than McGeorge can get them across the States?

My plans for 2021 include:
- Manual FM antenna "upgrade"
- Rust mitigation and slowing
- New tires (the Maxx have 40k miles on them and will need replaced at some point)
- Finally integrate the BenCC overhead switch panel
- Maybe a set of Owl Expedition sliders
- Possibly a snorkel with a pre filter on top

 

[gregnash]

So question...
Since you have the Slee 2nd battery mount, how come you went with the ARB CKMA12?
Doesn't the 2nd battery mount have the PS reservoir offset and mount for the ARB Twin? Or do they make two mounts one for the CKMA12 and one for the Twin?

How fast does the CKMA12 air up the S/Ts from like 14 to 38? I am looking to get something new as my little Viair 88p does the first two tires pretty quickly up to 38psi (maybe 3-5 minutes a piece) but once you hit that third tire she is nice and hot and takes close to 10 minutes at that point.

 

[87warrior]

So question...
Since you have the Slee 2nd battery mount, how come you went with the ARB CKMA12?
Doesn't the 2nd battery mount have the PS reservoir offset and mount for the ARB Twin? Or do they make two mounts one for the CKMA12 and one for the Twin?

How fast does the CKMA12 air up the S/Ts from like 14 to 38? I am looking to get something new as my little Viair 88p does the first two tires pretty quickly up to 38psi (maybe 3-5 minutes a piece) but once you hit that third tire she is nice and hot and takes close to 10 minutes at that point.

The single is cheaper than the twin

In reality, the Slee tray I have is an older version that does not include the compressor mounts. It does have have small flat extrusion on the tray bracket that might be large enough for a compressor, but that is where I currently have a fuse mounted for the battery and where my diff breathers terminate.

I am not super impressed by the CKMA12 compressor. I might have been expecting too much of the single. It takes a few minutes to air up the 255/85R16 from 16 to 36psi (average for a 12v compressor), but it is pretty consistent at all 4 tires (which is good). For a 12v compressor the ARB unit is pretty quiet. My go-to compressor for years has been a MV-50 I bought on a whim at an auto parts store in Colorado Springs back in 2005 and the ARB is about twice as fast and half as loud.

 

[gregnash]

The single is cheaper than the twin

In reality, the Slee tray I have is an older version that does not include the compressor mounts. It does have have small flat extrusion on the tray bracket that might be large enough for a compressor, but that is where I currently have a fuse mounted for the battery and where my diff breathers terminate.

I am not super impressed by the CKMA12 compressor. I might have been expecting too much of the single. It takes a few minutes to air up the 255/85R16 from 16 to 36psi (seems average for a 12v compressor), but it is pretty consistent at all 4 tires (which is goo). For a 12v compressor the ARB unit is pretty quiet. My go-to compressor for years has been a MV-50 I bought on a whim at an auto parts store in Colorado Springs back in 2005 and the ARB is about twice as fast and half as loud.

Yeah I had looked at those MV-50s due to a lot of guys recommendations and almost bought one. When I ran the 31s on my 60 the 88p did an awesome job of airing those up to 38psi real quick, like maybe a couple minutes a piece. But jumping up to the 100 with the 285/75r16 and it kinda starts to struggle after the 2nd tire.

Lots of the guys in my club run the SmittyBuilt 2781 and that thing is FAST. But it is also the size of a small toolbox which definitely won't fit under the hood. I really want to get the small ammo can of airdown stuff out of the rear seat area, hence wanting to mount in the engine bay with the Slee mount. Don't know if I would ever use the 2nd battery portion but who knows.

 

[87warrior]

Yeah I had looked at those MV-50s due to a lot of guys recommendations and almost bought one. When I ran the 31s on my 60 the 88p did an awesome job of airing those up to 38psi real quick, like maybe a couple minutes a piece. But jumping up to the 100 with the 285/75r16 and it kinda starts to struggle after the 2nd tire.

Lots of the guys in my club run the SmittyBuilt 2781 and that thing is FAST. But it is also the size of a small toolbox which definitely won't fit under the hood. I really want to get the small ammo can of airdown stuff out of the rear seat area, hence wanting to mount in the engine bay with the Slee mount. Don't know if I would ever use the 2nd battery portion but who knows.

Getting the compressor out of the gear storage area was my reason for mounting it under the hood. Now I just keep a coiled ARB air hose in the tailgate storage. Quick, easy and out of the way. Mounting options are limited under the hood of the 100, which is why I picked up the compact single ARB. Plus, I had never tried an ARB compressor before.

 

[gregnash]

Getting the compressor out of the gear storage area was my reason for mounting it under the hood. Now I just keep a coiled ARB air hose in the tailgate storage. Quick, easy and out of the way. Mounting options are limited under the hood of the 100, which is why I picked up the compact single ARB. Plus, I had never tried an ARB compressor before.

Yup this is the same thing for me.
Just keep that air line(s) stored somewhere out of the way instead of the ammo can in the foot area. Deflator valves can go into glove compartment or center console.

From the looks of it (seen best on ChowCares YT channel on his mount) the Slee 2nd Battery with the Twin compressor is a pretty awesome and stealthy setup. And the twin compressor is supposed to put out as much as that SmittyBuilt (5-6CFM) in a much smaller package. So kind of a double win with the size and remote locate under the hood. Price is the kicker though at $600ish for the compressor alone.

Down the line though.... it will happen.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

This my kinda build. Only the stuff you need and none of the extravagant jewelry for the sake of looks!

 

[87warrior]

This my kinda build. Only the stuff you need and none of the extravagant jewelry for the sake of looks!

Thanks! I just do simple modifications that simply make the Cruiser more useful for me. I think you've taken a similar approach with your LX. It's a great way to go!

My other rig is quite simple and far from flashy.

 

[twosmoker]

Amazing build @87warrior! Appreciate the detailed break down of the dual battery set up, I'll be following it pretty closely.

I was wondering if you installed the house battery and starting battery together? I keep hearing how important it is to install them at the same time but I have a 6 month old H7 AGM that would be a waste to upgrade.

 

[87warrior]

Thanks for the compliment @twosmoker (do you happen to ride 2-stroke dirtbikes?)

I installed the batteries about 7 months apart. I first installed the H5 AGM house battery since my lead acid 27F wasn't having any issues (and I am cheapskate). I did hook the H5 up to an AGM maintainer once a month to keep it healthy. About 7 months later my house battery had some corrosion on the top so I went ahead and replaced it with a H7 AGM and installed the voltage booster. These batteries have been running together without issue. I wouldn't hesitate to use your current H7 starting battery with another AGM house battery.

 

[twosmoker]

Thanks for the compliment @twosmoker (do you happen to ride 2-stroke dirtbikes?)

I installed the batteries about 7 months apart. I first installed the H5 AGM house battery since my lead acid 27F wasn't having any issues (and I am cheapskate). I did hook the H5 up to an AGM maintainer once a month to keep it healthy. About 7 months later my house battery had some corrosion on the top so I went ahead and replaced it with a H7 AGM and installed the voltage booster. These batteries have been running together without issue. I wouldn't hesitate to use your current H7 starting battery with another AGM house battery.

Not dirt bikes but spot on with the 2-stroke reference

Thanks for the assurance on the batteries!

 

[twosmoker]

@87warrior, got few more questions for you if you don't mind. What size circuit breaker and gauge of wire are you running back to the fuse box? How's the H5 working with the fridge?

Just picked up a Dometic since they are on sale so trying to get this all dialed.

Thanks!

 

[87warrior]

@twosmoker The H5 will run my fridge (54quart Costway) for about 30 hours if the ambient air temp stays below 80. I've since added a solar panel to the H5 and it keeps it topped off nicely when I am not driving.

The attached wire diagram should answer any questions about my wiring. I calculated my expected load and used the Blue Sea wire size chart to pick the wire size.

 

[twosmoker]

@87warrior, I’m back to bug you some more on your wiring . Are you grounding your rear accessories to the the body individually or do you have a common grounding point? Any issues?
Wrapping up my wiring this week and waffling whether to run a main ground back to the battery. Would love not to but don’t want to wire twice.
Also thanks a million for posting your wiring diagram, it’s honestly the most straightforward approach I’ve found.

 

[87warrior]

@87warrior, I’m back to bug you some more on your wiring . Are you grounding your rear accessories to the the body individually or do you have a common grounding point? Any issues?
Wrapping up my wiring this week and waffling whether to run a main ground back to the battery. Would love not to but don’t want to wire twice.
Also thanks a million for posting your wiring diagram, it’s honestly the most straightforward approach I’ve found.

My rear accessories are all chassis grounded. The house battery is also chassis grounded under the hood. I couldn't see any reason to run a second ground to a buss bar at the rear of the rig since all of my accessories are relatively low amperage. I haven't had any issues with this setup. Good luck with your project! Just remember to correctly fuse anything coming off a battery and you shouldn't have problems.

 

[twosmoker]

Thanks for confirming, figured it would be fine but you end up reading too much on the internet and start questioning everything.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Thought I would move the discussion on CV axles here. You mentioned that you have cranked the TB a bit, can you measure the hub-center to wheel arch? I am not really sure if a diff drop is going to make any real difference in the CV angles if your front height is within an inch of the stock 19.5"

 

[87warrior]

Thought I would move the discussion on CV axles here. You mentioned that you have cranked the TB a bit, can you measure the hub-center to wheel arch? I am not really sure if a diff drop is going to make any real difference in the CV angles if your front height is within an inch of the stock 19.5"

The hub-center to wheel arch is at 20.25" which should be within the acceptable range for a Toyota CV boot.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

Then a different drop is a waste of money IMHO. Perhaps look into beefier after market boots like cvj?

 

[87warrior]

On this day in 2016 I purchased my first Land Cruiser, this 100. I can hardly believe I've had it for 6 years already. 6 years and 114k miles. Assuming an average of 13mpg and an average fuel price of $2.75/gallon that's over $24k dollars in fuel

In 2021 I only put 14k miles on the 100, the shortest distance in a year since I have owned it. That is probably due to the fact I picked up a 200 in late 2020 and have enjoyed getting to know it. Interestingly enough, 2021 was the year of very little maintenance or modification to the 100. I think its finally getting close to how I want. I also spent most of 2021 building a camping trailer to pull behind the 100.

• Installed chrome 'sombrero' on grill
• Replaced wheel bearings with Timken from Toyota
• Replaced driver side inner CV boot on 2 year old Toyota axle
• Replaced tires with General Grabber ATX in 285/75R16
• Replaced Black Peak front recovery points with Road Safe recovery points from Marks4wd
• Installed 7-pin trailer plug in rear bumper
  • Auxiliary power through 7-pin plug is from my second battery
  • Redarc Tow Pro controller to be installed
• Installed front Ironman Foam Cell Pro shocks
• Replaced passenger side inner CV boot on 2 year old Toyota axle

By the 2nd CV boot, I got pretty fast at rebooting...

Getting remote as possible in Northern Colorado with @Stevehats

The 100 patiently waits for me to finish the camping trailer.

Finally getting out with the new trailer build

...and what is planned in 2022 for the 100?

• Install Redarc Tow Pro Trailer brake controller
• Install ASFIR mid skid plate
• Install Pintle hitch through bumper cover to rear crossmember
• Install Ironman Foam Cell Pro rear shocks
• Paint side molding
• Replace Heater T's
• Replace all fluids