1999 | Bruiser - Yearly Stuff

[87warrior]

What Home link did you use, where did you get it and how much? Thank you!

I found the Homelink module on ebay. It was a used part from a GM car, but the eBay seller included a plug/pigtail and a wiring diagram with detailed instructions on how to use it. Super easy to wire up and use. I think it was between $20-30.

 

[87warrior]

Whoops, I missed my 3rd year anniversary with the Cruiser!

I closed out my 3rd year with the Cruiser at 307,000 miles. Last year was a low mileage year at only 19k miles. In the 3 years of ownership, I’ve put 61k miles on the rig.

I did not spend too much time wrenching on the Cruiser in the last 19k miles…at least it didn’t seem like it!

- Installed a set of Wet Okole seat covers over the cracking leather on the front seats​

- Replaced the worn rubber stopper on the front differential​

- Replaced remaining stock coil packs with Denso​

- Replaced front brake pads​

- Rebuilt the front hub assembly with new Timken and Koyo wheel bearings​

- Replaced the lower ball joints with 555 joints​

- Replaced the rear upper control arms with new Toyota arms​

- Replaced the front CV axles with new Toyota axles​

- Installed 30mm Slee Spacer and indexed the Torsion bars​

- Replaced Cooper 265/75r16 AT3 with 255/85r16 ST Maxx​

- Installed SuperLift Truespeed​

- Made quick release awning brackets for a used 8’ Smittybilt awning​

The Cruiser will get some more love over the next year. This is my plan for 2019:

- Timing Belt. Currently at 115k miles on the last timing belt.​

- U-joints. The rear u-joints have some slop in them.​

- Rear lower control arms. The stock bushings are splitting.​

- ARB front bumper. I had a few close calls with deer this year.​

Wet Okole covers fit great!

Wheel bearings were making some noise

SuperLift Truespeed in the glovebox

Awning bracket

255/85r16 ST Maxx

 

[calskibum]

Whoops, I missed my 3rd year anniversary with the Cruiser!

I closed out my 3rd year with the Cruiser at 307,000 miles. Last year was a low mileage year at only 19k miles. In the 3 years of ownership, I’ve put 61k miles on the rig.

I did not spend too much time wrenching on the Cruiser in the last 19k miles…at least it didn’t seem like it!

- Installed a set of Wet Okole seat covers over the cracking leather on the front seats
- Replaced the worn rubber stopper on the front differential
- Replaced remaining stock coil packs with Denso
- Replaced front brake pads
- Rebuilt the front hub assembly with new Timken and Koyo wheel bearings
- Replaced the lower ball joints with 555 joints
- Replaced the rear upper control arms with new Toyota arms
- Replaced the front CV axles with new Toyota axles
- Installed 30mm Slee Spacer and indexed the Torsion bars
- Replaced Cooper 265/75r16 AT3 with 255/85r16 ST Maxx
- Installed SuperLift Truespeed
- Made quick release awning brackets for a used 8’ Smittybilt awning​

The Cruiser will get some more love over the next year. This is my plan for 2019:

- Timing Belt. Currently at 115k miles on the last timing belt.
- U-joints. The rear u-joints have some slop in them.
- Rear lower control arms. The stock bushings are splitting.
- ARB front bumper. I had a few close calls with deer this year.​

Wet Okole covers fit great!
View attachment 1880102

Wheel bearings were making some noise
View attachment 1880104

SuperLift Truespeed in the glovebox
View attachment 1880101

Awning bracket
View attachment 1880105

255/85r16 ST Maxx
View attachment 1880103

@87warrior: how do you like the Wet Okole seat covers? They look pretty nice in you photo. Do they stay on well with a pretty tight fit? I'm also searching for a set of seat covers to go over my aging leather seats on my '99 LC.

 

[87warrior]

@87warrior: how do you like the Wet Okole seat covers? They look pretty nice in you photo. Do they stay on well with a pretty tight fit? I'm also searching for a set of seat covers to go over my aging leather seats on my '99 LC.

The covers have been on for about 6 months and are still snug. The seat covers feel great. I still get a random wiffs of neoprene smell to this day. I love that the seats are warmer in the winter. The seat heater still works on high but not quite as intense as the straight leather. They were warm in the summer, but I felt the 'swamp ass' was about the same as the leather. The downside is the cost. For the price of the Wet Okole covers the LSeat covers would be about the same, except you would still have leather seats. I like the Wet Okole because they are not leather.

 

[flintknapper]

@87warrior: how do you like the Wet Okole seat covers? They look pretty nice in you photo. Do they stay on well with a pretty tight fit? I'm also searching for a set of seat covers to go over my aging leather seats on my '99 LC.

Do the Wet Okole fit over the existing covers? Those seem to fit very nicely.

 

[87warrior]

Do the Wet Okole fit over the existing covers? Those seem to fit very nicely.

Yes. The Wet Okole covers simply sit over the existing leather. I am quite pleased with the fit, but installing them did take some time. Removing the seat is absolutely necessary.

 

[87warrior]

2019 has been a busy year for the 100. Although I am not quite to the 4 year anniversary of ownership, I need to record what I have done other wise I will forget!

January through September. I am at 320k smiles, so I've done 13k miles so far this year.
- Install +03 ARB Deluxe front bumper with amber Xprite JK fog lights
- Replace rear lower control arms with SPC
- Replace rear driveshaft
- Replace steering rack bushings with WhiteLine Poly
- Replace rear, passenger, brake caliper bracket
- Replace Timing Belt with Aisin kit
- Replace Radiator with OEM
- Install dual battery
- Upgrade roof rack crossbars with 80/20 for ARB RTT
- Replace Brake Booster assembly with OEM

Fresh ARB Deluxe bumper installed

Timing Belt completed!

80/20 roof rack cross bars installed

ARB Simpson III RTT on top of the cruiser

Took the Cruiser for a 10 day trip along the Continental Divide with a couple of days in the San Juan mountains with @Stevehats

 

[87warrior]

I also bought a fridge to put in the Cruiser on long trips. I really wanted to isolate the power used by accessories like the fridge when parked to a dedicated house battery. There are many possible routes to achieve a functional dual battery setup; this is how I did it.

Objective:
Install a simple and cost effective dual battery system

Goals:
System should operate automatically, manually or be switched off
Ability to self jump start
Keep it safe

I like to draw diagrams when doing electrical work, for home or vehicle. This helps keep me organized and greatly reduces the chance of me wiring in a short circuit or having and un-fused power source. Below is a basic diagram for this dual battery system.

This works as follows:

Voltmeters - I can view the battery voltage anytime. With the solenoid deactivated the voltmeters will show the resting voltage of each battery. With the solenoid active the voltmeters will display the voltage of the batteries combined.

Charge/Solenoid control
- AUTO, the solenoid is activated when it receives power from an ignition power source. This setting automatically ties the batteries together when the vehicle is running and isolates them when it is off.
- ON, the solenoid is activated when it receives power from the house battery. This allows a self jump start in case the starting battery has died.
- OFF, the solenoid will not activate

The control center for the batteries is fitted to my overhead console. The primary switches replaced the useless sunroof controls in my Cruiser since the sunroof hasn't operated in years. The small digital voltmeters were cut into the console.

The 2nd battery tray I am using is an old style Slee Offroad tray, which is designed for an Optima battery. Since I was trying to keep costs down, I found a Group47 (H5) AGM battery that fit the tray. As a bonus the terminals are recessed into the battery case.

At both the starting battery and house battery I installed Bussman fuse holders and 300A MEGA/AMG fuses to protect the vehicle and batteries from a massive short circuit in the event a cable breaks. I used 2AWG welding wire, tinned copper lugs, braided loom and adhesive backed heat shrink to build the battery cables.

I tucked the solenoid against the firewall directly in front of the driver's seat. The solenoid engages with a solid audible 'click'. I made sure to cover all positive terminals in the whole system.

 

[87warrior]

With the batteries charging, the solenoid functioning and having been lucky at preventing any wrench to ground arcs, I installed a small circuit breaker off the house battery. This little breaker supplies power to the rear of the vehicle, where all of the house accessories will be powered from.

I utilized the factory subwoofer space to make a house accessory switch panel and power distribution system.

The Blue Seas fuse block is recessed into the old cupholder in the back of the Cruiser.

 

[LCReunion]

How have you liked your 255/85/16's? I switched to that size(KM3) this year after having 285/75/16...I really like mine. Wouldn't switch back

 

[87warrior]

How have you liked your 255/85/16's? I switched to that size(KM3) this year after having 285/75/16...I really like mine. Wouldn't switch back

Your rig must be super peppy with the 255's and 4.88 gears! I love the tire size and probably wont change sizes when these wear out. When I switched to the 255's I did not notice any change in on-road 'performance' or fuel economy compared to the 265/75/16 that were on it (other than an erroneous speedometer). Since the 255's stay tucked under the fenders, the side of the cruiser generally has less crud plastered across the side which is a huge bonus when living out of it for a week+. The 255 are a modest tire in appearance but perform wonderfully.

 

[LCReunion]

yes I love the change to 4.88....I've posted elsewhere about it...rpms are up about 200rpm on the highway compared to stock...not noticeable at all....transmission shift more like stock too.

 

[87warrior]

I close out my 4th year of ownership with the Cruiser today at 327k miles and 20k miles last year. Since purchase, I have put 81k miles on the Cruiser.

I did not do much to the cruiser at the end of 2019.
- Installed LX470 Compass Mirror
- Installed 7" HID spot lights on the ARB to replace the halogen IPF lights
- Starter Replacement @ 320k with a Toyota Denso unit
- Installed a Pfran clamp on my nearly new CV axle that started leaking
- Muffler Replacement @ 325k with a Bosal

The Cruiser will get some more love in 2020.
- OME 2866 coils (sitting in the garage)
- Solar power (some parts in the garage)
- Clean up overhead console with switch insert from BenCC (sitting in garage)
- Maybe a 40 gallon LRA fuel tank...

 

[ClassyJalopy]

I love reading about your upgrades. Congratulations on the fourth anniversary.
Have you written somewhere about the LX470 Compass mirror install? Did you have to install sensor or something else?

 

[gregnash]

Yeah more info on the mirror upgrade. I have been looking at putting a generic Gentex mirror with homelink in my 98.
Also did you do the starter yourself? If so, how difficult would you rate the job?

 

[87warrior]

I love reading about your upgrades. Congratulations on the fourth anniversary.
Have you written somewhere about the LX470 Compass mirror install? Did you have to install sensor or something else?

The mirror fit the windshield mount so it bolted up easily. Just hook up switched power to the mirror (+) and grounded the mirror (-). I asked some questions about it in this thread:

LX470 Rear View Mirror (auto dim + compass) upgrade - wiring diagram needed

I am looking to upgrade my 99 LC rear view mirror to an auto dim + compass mirror from a LX470. The mirror has an orange plug with 4 wires. I have spent several hours with my 99 and 04 LC EWD's and have determined I do not have the proper wiring diagram at my disposal. In the LC diagram with an...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[87warrior]

Yeah more info on the mirror upgrade. I have been looking at putting a generic Gentex mirror with homelink in my 98.
Also did you do the starter yourself? If so, how difficult would you rate the job?

A Gentex mirror would be an easy install with all the documentation about them online. I'd probably go that route next time vs the rare, overpriced, LX mirror that doesn't work if the cabin temperature is less than 55 degrees

I did the starter myself. The starter job was easier than the timing belt or steering rack. It wasn't difficult, just time consuming like the timing belt. Figuring out how to access the two starter bolts on the back of the block was the hardest part followed closely by the stubborn fuel injector wire harness clips. Even though I am 6'3", I found having a step stool helped me reach everything in the back of the engine bay.

These are the tools I had laying on the floor when I was done with the starter:

 

[gregnash]

So on rating would you rate it as a or higher? My main concern is that I have only a one car garage and thus would be taking over the garage for like a weekend. Not ideal but not out of the question either. I completely rebuilt the head and top end on my FJ60 so there is some mechanical aptitude there but this is my first foray into a more "electronic" world of vehicles that I will maintain myself.

Plus, I'm a cheap bastard. Most shops have quoted me about $700 to do the job and a good 4hrs (so a day at the shop). Figure that me taking my time would be closer to a full day if not two when all is said and done, but would only really be out the cost of the new starter.

Where there any other "while you're in there" parts that you would recommend since the intake is coming off? I have seen people recommend R&R the intake gaskets and the throttle body gasket, but anything else?

 

[87warrior]

@gregnash If you are able to pull a head from any motor, and go through it, you will have no problem with the starter on a 100. There are a few starter threads in the the FAQ that I used as guidance. On a scale, I'd give the starter a rating. Timing belt and steering rack would probably achieve a rating, but still just a long weekend in the home garage.

It took me 5.5 hours to do working at a leisurely pace... and realizing I installed the intake manifold gaskets upside down and had to pull the intake back off to fix that. A lot of my time was spent cleaning the heads around the intake gaskets and the block valley. I also had to repair the solenoid trigger wire that was apparently stripped by someone else before I bought the cruiser.

The only parts I used were the starter and 2 intake manifold gaskets. Some folks say you can reuse the intake manifold gaskets, but that just seemed like a bad idea to me. I left the throttle body bolted to the intake and did not split the intake in 1/2 so the TB and intake plenum gaskets did not get changed. If the Heater Tees have not been done you might as well do them since they are super easy to access with the intake removed and the coolant has already been drained to remove the manifold.

 

[gregnash]

Thanks for answering @87warrior I appreciate it. Have been tossing back and forth doing this myself, just need that extra little nudge to get it done.