Looks great, what paint?
1998 HDJ80 with 1HDT - Refresh
- Thread starter logicbyondreaso
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- #322
There was a mud member who was selling SEM custom matched interior paints not long ago. I think there is also just a general SEM color that matches well.
- Thread starter
- #323
Got my hands on a PTO. Not all parts pictured. Another member had a shaft in the shed that they sold me. They mentioned its not in the best shape so I may need to repair or duplicate it. If you have or know someone who has a PTO shaft from a manual 80 please message me.
My transfer case is already setup to accept a PTO.
My transfer case is already setup to accept a PTO.
- Thread starter
- #324
This 80 came from a warm climate so it did not have any engine insulation on the firewall that we see commonly in the US. I want to add this to help with noise and heat.
Here is the insulator that I purchased from a dealer in the US. Part number 55223-60112.
It is held in place via 3 x plastic retainers to the firewall which has a stud that they snap on. Well, the stud(s) were not present on my 80 and I assume they were not installed if not optioned with the insulator. A stock US 80 will have the studs on the firewall for these clips. The clips can also be purchased separately: 90467-13035
Here is the insulator that I purchased from a dealer in the US. Part number 55223-60112.
It is held in place via 3 x plastic retainers to the firewall which has a stud that they snap on. Well, the stud(s) were not present on my 80 and I assume they were not installed if not optioned with the insulator. A stock US 80 will have the studs on the firewall for these clips. The clips can also be purchased separately: 90467-13035
Now that is indeed a part I have never seen in person for an 80 series nor would I even have thought to research it.
Nice work, Pavel.
Nice work, Pavel.
- Thread starter
- #326
Since I did not have the studs on my firewall for the clips to attach to I needed to add them. My options were to weld, drill, or glue. I decided to adhere a "stud" to the firewall since it is not heavy nor is there a load on it. Also, all the piping on the firewall sandwiches the insulation to hold it in place.
I found a stainless screw that fit into the slip very snugly while allowing the clip to sit flush with the firewall. I ended up having to trim down the screw to make it fit the clip.
First, I had to remove all the AC and heater piping from the firewall along with any other accessory that would be in the way.
I picked up heavy duty professional Loctite metal to metal glue that I then used to adhere the screw to the firewall. I cleaned the area and scuffed up the contact points on both sides. I applied 5-10lbs of force to the screw once it was glued and it did not move.
Installed the insulator and all plumbing.
I found a stainless screw that fit into the slip very snugly while allowing the clip to sit flush with the firewall. I ended up having to trim down the screw to make it fit the clip.
First, I had to remove all the AC and heater piping from the firewall along with any other accessory that would be in the way.
I picked up heavy duty professional Loctite metal to metal glue that I then used to adhere the screw to the firewall. I cleaned the area and scuffed up the contact points on both sides. I applied 5-10lbs of force to the screw once it was glued and it did not move.
Installed the insulator and all plumbing.
Oh damn, that thing is still available? Amazing the things that are still in production 30 years later.
More like left-over.
As rarely as one of those would be replaced, a very few would go a very long way.
- Thread starter
- #329
I have been working with a reputable machine shop to get my block cleaned and honed. I have used them multiple times in the past. It's an old school family owned machine shop. The people that work there are very passionate about their work and are very happy to talk shop.
They did discover a score of the cylinder from the broken ring. They tried to hone the cylinder with hopes of removing the scratch but it was not enough. Removing the scratch entirely would require oversizing the pistons. This was the plan, go to the oversize OEM pistons. I was not able to source the correct part number for my late year 1HDT using all the knowledge of the forum gurus. My next plan was to source the pistons from Australia who have been doing this type of work for years. Same day as I was planning to order the pistons, I got a notification that a brand new short block was available. With a little weekend motivation from @OGBeno I decided to get a new block and save myself some time as my project needs to be up and running in the next 3-4 weeks.
The block arrived within 7 days of ordering.
That said - If anyone is looking for a 1HDT and has time to oversize the bores please reach out. I have the block + rotating assembly, head, gear covers, and a few other misc parts.
They did discover a score of the cylinder from the broken ring. They tried to hone the cylinder with hopes of removing the scratch but it was not enough. Removing the scratch entirely would require oversizing the pistons. This was the plan, go to the oversize OEM pistons. I was not able to source the correct part number for my late year 1HDT using all the knowledge of the forum gurus. My next plan was to source the pistons from Australia who have been doing this type of work for years. Same day as I was planning to order the pistons, I got a notification that a brand new short block was available. With a little weekend motivation from @OGBeno I decided to get a new block and save myself some time as my project needs to be up and running in the next 3-4 weeks.
The block arrived within 7 days of ordering.
That said - If anyone is looking for a 1HDT and has time to oversize the bores please reach out. I have the block + rotating assembly, head, gear covers, and a few other misc parts.
- Thread starter
- #330
A few more photos of it once on the engine stand.
best to measure protrusion at the front and back of the piston's edge and not at the right and left side. Piston can rock ever so slightly when piston is changing directions causing measurements to be off. In your picture your on the corner so it might not be too bad. PM'd on the block.
- Thread starter
- #333
Agreed. Each cylinder was checked at all 4 sides.
- Joined
- Sep 9, 2004
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- 200
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- 12,496
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- Boise - Idaho
- Website
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Nice! I have known they are still available for awhile. Just costs $$$.
I bet the reason why and an FYI, 1HDT was put in 100-series until the end of 100 production.
Only the FT out of all the 1Hx series is rare with NLA parts, from my experience.
Cheers
I bet the reason why and an FYI, 1HDT was put in 100-series until the end of 100 production.
Only the FT out of all the 1Hx series is rare with NLA parts, from my experience.
Cheers
- Thread starter
- #335
I was waiting on transmission oil and FIPG to close up the transmission. Ensure you lubricate the input shaft and synchronizer ring well with oil before assembling.
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- #336
Gears, cases, water pump, and injector pump installed.
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- #337
I do not have the correct seal driver in my tool box for this seal. Toyota SST part # is 09214-76011; same as the pinion seal tool. @Outsane makes a PETG version of this that you can pick up from his site. I should have picked it up before but it slipped my mind.
I looked all over my garage for anything that would fit including PVC pipes but did not have the right size. Then, I picked up 1FZ supercharger belt tensioner tool and it fits perfectly. I used the press to press it in. Was very therapeutic.
I looked all over my garage for anything that would fit including PVC pipes but did not have the right size. Then, I picked up 1FZ supercharger belt tensioner tool and it fits perfectly. I used the press to press it in. Was very therapeutic.
- Thread starter
- #338
Oil pickup and pan installed.
New head (11101-17020) on the workbench for valve lapping.
New head (11101-17020) on the workbench for valve lapping.
- Thread starter
- #339
With the new head I installed new intake valves (13711-17010) and exhaust valves (13715-17010). To ensure they seat tight I lapped them using Clover 600 grit. After a cleaning I installed valve seals (90913-02109), valves, springs, and keepers using the valve compression tool.
Looking good! I'm planning to rebuild a 1HZ head sometime in the next 12 months with new valves/springs, so your pictures are giving me a better picture of what I'll be seeing when I do.
