Sounds great. Any noticeable difference?
1998 HDJ80 with 1HDT - Refresh (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter logicbyondreaso
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- Thread starter
- #302
The measurable difference is the 1/8" height gain. I also think it feels different on the road but that could be all in my head.
- Thread starter
- #303
Winter project: H152 swap with the engine out for seals/gaskets and inspection. I also plan to install the factory console fridge during this swap.
I have started on disassembly to prep for pulling the entire drivetrain together. I had an AC shop evacuate my refrigerant so I could remove the radiator and condenser to make the engine removal easier.
Coolant and as much of the power steering fluids were carefully drained.
Driveshafts disconnected.
Transmission linkage removed.
Engine connections such as fuel, throttle, heater core, vacuum, and electrical disconnected.
I broke the crank pulley bolt loose while the engine was still in place.
So far I am about 5 hours into the job. Trying to keep track of how much time it will take. I am working alone at a normal pace. Keeping track of every bolt/nut and marking any removed parts.
Draining radiator via 3/8" ID tubing connected to the drain cock. Keeps coolant flowing directly to the pan.
Draining coolant from block via the drain cock on driver side. 3/8" hose directly to a drain pan.
@OTRAMM crank holding tool works with the 1HDT.
I have started on disassembly to prep for pulling the entire drivetrain together. I had an AC shop evacuate my refrigerant so I could remove the radiator and condenser to make the engine removal easier.
Coolant and as much of the power steering fluids were carefully drained.
Driveshafts disconnected.
Transmission linkage removed.
Engine connections such as fuel, throttle, heater core, vacuum, and electrical disconnected.
I broke the crank pulley bolt loose while the engine was still in place.
So far I am about 5 hours into the job. Trying to keep track of how much time it will take. I am working alone at a normal pace. Keeping track of every bolt/nut and marking any removed parts.
Draining radiator via 3/8" ID tubing connected to the drain cock. Keeps coolant flowing directly to the pan.
Draining coolant from block via the drain cock on driver side. 3/8" hose directly to a drain pan.
@OTRAMM crank holding tool works with the 1HDT.
FMC80
SILVER Star
Clean, organized, OCD-level maintenance. Love it. I also see you have nothing but time and money on your hands. 
- Thread starter
- #305
I collected parts over the last year as I was prepping for the H152 swap and engine refresh. I had everything in my head thinking that I would be doing this job much sooner. I've since forgot what each little bolt, gasket, or o-ring is for. So I spent 3 hours creating a database of part numbers, descriptions, quantity, and bin location. I then wrote a excel program that can help me locate the part for each job. While at it, I created a spreadsheet that I can blindly enter part numbers for future orders and it would cross reference any available parts in my inventory and notify me if they exist and of what quantity. This will reduce ordering doubles of anything and trying to consume my inventory as needed. I plan to keep the inventory database updated so I can see if any parts are available for future jobs.
Once the inventory was checked and database completed I pulled the drivetrain out. I previously had prepped the engine for removal by disconnecting accessories and removing any items that would be in the way. It took me 30 minutes to pull the drivetrain alone. I then spent 1.5 hours separating the transmission and putting the motor on an engine stand. Next I will be breaking down the motor for inspection and replacement of some parts.
After I removed the crossmember and engine mount nuts, I lowered the transmission and t-case onto a dolly. This way I can lift the motor to clear the front of the 80 and be able to move it out of the engine compartment. Once it was in the right position, I shifted the center of gravity to rebalance the load and pull everything out.
Once the inventory was checked and database completed I pulled the drivetrain out. I previously had prepped the engine for removal by disconnecting accessories and removing any items that would be in the way. It took me 30 minutes to pull the drivetrain alone. I then spent 1.5 hours separating the transmission and putting the motor on an engine stand. Next I will be breaking down the motor for inspection and replacement of some parts.
After I removed the crossmember and engine mount nuts, I lowered the transmission and t-case onto a dolly. This way I can lift the motor to clear the front of the 80 and be able to move it out of the engine compartment. Once it was in the right position, I shifted the center of gravity to rebalance the load and pull everything out.
- Thread starter
- #306
I made some progress during the week of removing the exhaust and intake manifolds along with the wiring harness.
The alternator does not look original and I have noticed a few times the gauge jumping around. The bearings also sound like they are fouled with debris. I found a new oem 80 amp that should fit without any modifications, part number 27060-17220. Ideally I would like to pickup a 100 amp version but the price was 4-5x more.
I am also considering replacing the AC compressor. The system worked well during the summer but I am adding the console fridge and honestly don't want to open up the AC system in the near future. It's a 10PA17C type.
Lastly, since this 80 came from a warm climate it was not fitted with the firewall insulation like we have on most if not all 80's in North America. I wonder if it's worth adding it at this time. Does it reduce engine noise a noticeable amount? @SNLC do you have any projects where you added this insulation? Notice a difference?
The alternator does not look original and I have noticed a few times the gauge jumping around. The bearings also sound like they are fouled with debris. I found a new oem 80 amp that should fit without any modifications, part number 27060-17220. Ideally I would like to pickup a 100 amp version but the price was 4-5x more.
I am also considering replacing the AC compressor. The system worked well during the summer but I am adding the console fridge and honestly don't want to open up the AC system in the near future. It's a 10PA17C type.
Lastly, since this 80 came from a warm climate it was not fitted with the firewall insulation like we have on most if not all 80's in North America. I wonder if it's worth adding it at this time. Does it reduce engine noise a noticeable amount? @SNLC do you have any projects where you added this insulation? Notice a difference?
Radd cruisers up in Canada has the correct AC compressor. Was your system R-12 or upgraded to R-134?
- Thread starter
- #308
Factory R-134a.
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- Thread starter
- #309
I removed the head. Without using any dye I do not see any cracks like others have reported in the past.
- Thread starter
- #310
The cylinders all look good to the naked eye. Still has cross-hatching on the walls.
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- Thread starter
- #311
The block is broken down and ready for the machine shop. It looks very good. No scoring or any signs of issues. Hopefully all it needs is a cleaning and honing.
I did find an issue that explains my low compression numbers in one cylinder - broken piston ring.
Once I get everything back from the machine shop it will be assembly time.
I plan to replace all freeze plugs and add the block heater while it's out.
Next up I will work on the H152 input shaft swap to fit the 1HD.
I did find an issue that explains my low compression numbers in one cylinder - broken piston ring.
Once I get everything back from the machine shop it will be assembly time.
I plan to replace all freeze plugs and add the block heater while it's out.
Next up I will work on the H152 input shaft swap to fit the 1HD.
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- Thread starter
- #312
I have not had much time to work on this project in the last week. I did order new bearings and some misc. seals that I did not have on hand. I plan to drop the block off at the machine shop for inspection and hone.
A couple parts I have been waiting on showed up: Safari intercooler kit and the AC piping for console fridge and rear AC. I am already fitted with rear AC but needed the piping that has a branch for the console fridge. The harder part was it had to be from a later year 80 series. The earlier years had different size fittings and piping.
In order to install the console fridge the support bracket for the standard arm rest console needs to be removed. It is attached with body welds. I will drill those out and remove the bracket.
A couple parts I have been waiting on showed up: Safari intercooler kit and the AC piping for console fridge and rear AC. I am already fitted with rear AC but needed the piping that has a branch for the console fridge. The harder part was it had to be from a later year 80 series. The earlier years had different size fittings and piping.
In order to install the console fridge the support bracket for the standard arm rest console needs to be removed. It is attached with body welds. I will drill those out and remove the bracket.
- Thread starter
- #313
I rebuilt the power steering gearbox with an oem kit, part number 04445-60050. The box cleaned up well and I decided to not spend the time painting it.
- Thread starter
- #314
To install the oem console fridge I needed to remove a bracket that is for a non-fridge console.
The fridge uses different mounting points compared to the non-fridge console. There are two brackets that get installed at the most front and rear ends. I will take photos of those when I get them in.
The bracket is held in with 4 spot welds. Using a spot weld removing bit you can neatly remove the bracket without destroying it. The bit cuts around the spot weld leaving a small circle portion of the bracket behind. Very clean and I suppose reversible process.
The bracket needed to be removed so the console can be installed and two penetrations made for the AC lines and drain.
I had a template made from a factory fridge console truck so I can trace it on.
I will mock up the console before cutting the body.
The fridge uses different mounting points compared to the non-fridge console. There are two brackets that get installed at the most front and rear ends. I will take photos of those when I get them in.
The bracket is held in with 4 spot welds. Using a spot weld removing bit you can neatly remove the bracket without destroying it. The bit cuts around the spot weld leaving a small circle portion of the bracket behind. Very clean and I suppose reversible process.
The bracket needed to be removed so the console can be installed and two penetrations made for the AC lines and drain.
I had a template made from a factory fridge console truck so I can trace it on.
I will mock up the console before cutting the body.
- Thread starter
- #315
Spent some time on cutting the transmission tunnel for the H152 and the penetrations for the fridge console.
In order to swap the rear AC piping for a variant that includes the fridge, I ended up having to remove the body mounts. I did not want to force the piping into
place due to risk of causing a bend. Since I just recently did the body mounts it was a very quick task and the piping swap was very easy.
I then cut the tunnel and console penetrations followed with a thin coat of paint on the edges.
Next up I will work on the H152 input shaft swap for the 1HDT.
Before and after the tunnel cut:
Comparing AC piping: Rear AC only versus Rear AC and Fridge Console
AC Piping view from underneath. Don't mind the dirt. It needs dry ice blast cleaning.
Console penetrations with piping peaking through.
In order to swap the rear AC piping for a variant that includes the fridge, I ended up having to remove the body mounts. I did not want to force the piping into
place due to risk of causing a bend. Since I just recently did the body mounts it was a very quick task and the piping swap was very easy.
I then cut the tunnel and console penetrations followed with a thin coat of paint on the edges.
Next up I will work on the H152 input shaft swap for the 1HDT.
Before and after the tunnel cut:
Comparing AC piping: Rear AC only versus Rear AC and Fridge Console
AC Piping view from underneath. Don't mind the dirt. It needs dry ice blast cleaning.
Console penetrations with piping peaking through.
- Thread starter
- #316
I am sending a few parts for ceramic and powder coatings.
I also broke down the console fridge for a deep clean and reseal with new foam. I used Dawn and simple green to clean it.
The machine shop called and said the broken piston ring grooved the bore. They tried to power hone it but was not enough. The next step is to oversize and obtain 0.5 o/s pistons part number 13103-17051.
I also broke down the console fridge for a deep clean and reseal with new foam. I used Dawn and simple green to clean it.
The machine shop called and said the broken piston ring grooved the bore. They tried to power hone it but was not enough. The next step is to oversize and obtain 0.5 o/s pistons part number 13103-17051.
- Thread starter
- #317
I spent some time working on the H152 input shaft.
Not a complicated process. The shortcut of using a wood wedge to remove the input shaft without breaking the entire transmission down is very helpful in saving time.
I am waiting on new FIPG and gear oil to arrive to button everything up. FIPG: 00295-01281, Gear oil: Red Line MT-90.
Not a complicated process. The shortcut of using a wood wedge to remove the input shaft without breaking the entire transmission down is very helpful in saving time.
I am waiting on new FIPG and gear oil to arrive to button everything up. FIPG: 00295-01281, Gear oil: Red Line MT-90.
nice work. Any idea on how/why that ring broke? how was it running before you took it apart? i had some edges of my pistons melted and pinching the rings on mine.
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- Thread starter
- #319
I think it must have overheated at some point. It was running strong but had blow by. Compression numbers in that cylinder were low but not very low.
- Thread starter
- #320
The center console was faded so I took it all apart to repaint and add some more insulation for the fridge.
The color is exact or very close to original. The photos may be skewed from the shop lighting.
The color is exact or very close to original. The photos may be skewed from the shop lighting.
