1998 HDJ80 with 1HDT - Refresh (2 Viewers)

[logicbyondreaso]

This 80 AC system is R134A from factory.
Since I have added the console fridge and this 80 has the rear AC, I want to make sure the AC system is working well while it is apart.
Earlier, I refreshed the interior AC components such as the TXV, evaporator, fan, door foam, and the condenser. The fridge was mostly rebuilt and the compressor looked to be original.
The HDJ had 2 compressor options for this year a 10PA17 and 10PA15. This 80 has the 17 because of the additional cooled components (rear AC and fridge). I believe the 15 came with any 80 without the rear AC and with or without the fridge. The 17 came with the rear AC option and with/without the fridge.
OEM 10PA17 part number for this 80 is 88320-60610. However, after some research of photos and part numbers, the FZJ80/LX450 compressor is already the 10PA17 type with a different pulley/clutch assembly. The size of the physical compressor is exactly the same.
Denso 471-1166 is the replacement compressor for the 1FZ/LX450. I purchased it and a new clutch assembly (88410-22480), shims (88335-14020), snap ring (90099-07114), and a star type snap ring (90099-07125).
Removal of the clutch is very easy - 1 bolt and two snap rings.

 

[logicbyondreaso]

Assembly of the clutch is reverse or removal. Very easy to do.
The only step that is important is to set the air gap of the clutch. Because of the way the pulley sits, there is no way to accurately get a feeler gauge in there. You would have to bend it almost 90º and even then it would not fit right.
The alternative method is to electrically engage the clutch and measure the movement with a gauge.
I restrained the compressor to my work bench and setup a dial indicator to the front of the clutch face when not energized.
Once 12v was provided to the clutch I measured the gap. The shims I mentioned above, come in a pack of 3 with different thickness. I tried to use the one that came with the 1FZ clutch but it was not enough. I ended up adding another shim to get the air gap in spec of 0.5 +/- 0.15mm. My combination of shims gave me 0.5mm air gap. I repeated the test multiple times using different parts of the clutch face and again after properly torqueing the bolt to 9.8 ft-lbs.

 

[logicbyondreaso]

Final step was to install the suction/discharge manifold, part number 88371-60300.
Before installing it and a new gasket you need to empty the compressor of the oil that Denso ships it with. They ship it with enough oil for the entire system assuming it will all be brand new.
Since I did not take everything apart, I emptied the compressor oil and got roughly 100mL even though they ship it with almost 2x that amount. I then emptied the old compressor to see how much it contained since that is what I want to match. The old compressor had 20mL in it that I was able to recover. FSM mentions adding an addition 20mL to what was removed. I added 40mL of new PAG oil and buttoned up the manifold. Compressor is ready for install.
Photos to compare the two compressors.

 

[TheBussman]

Final step was to install the suction/discharge manifold, part number 88371-60300.
Before installing it and a new gasket you need to empty the compressor of the oil that Denso ships it with. They ship it with enough oil for the entire system assuming it will all be brand new.
Since I did not take everything apart, I emptied the compressor oil and got roughly 100mL even though they ship it with almost 2x that amount. I then emptied the old compressor to see how much it contained since that is what I want to match. The old compressor had 20mL in it that I was able to recover. FSM mentions adding an addition 20mL to what was removed. I added 40mL of new PAG oil and buttoned up the manifold. Compressor is ready for install.
Photos to compare the two compressors.
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Great tech on the compressors. Much better option then getting the genuine compressor from overseas. Where did you get the manifold? I couldn't find a new one I had to go used.

 

[OGBeno]

Great tech on the compressors. Much better option then getting the genuine compressor from overseas. Where did you get the manifold? I couldn't find a new one I had to go used.

The manifold is available from Denso direct out of Japan.

 

[DivByZero]

The manifold is available from Denso direct out of Japan.

Do you know a good way to get Denso part numbers for the 80 series? Unless I can see a marking or get lucky with a readable label, I never know what they are.

 

[logicbyondreaso]

I am waiting on the turbo and manifolds to come back from the coating service. Once they are in hand everything can be installed.

The block heater was installed on the RH side (exhaust manifold) into the last freeze plug opening. The orientation is about 7 o'clock. I plan to insulate the electrical wire with a reflective sleeve rated for high temperature.

I also took time to repair the engine and transmission harnesses.

The engine harness had exposed wiring and broken wiring looms. Some of the wiring was very brittle and any bend would break it.
I ordered repair wires and new connectors to replace those bad sections. This harness is very simple so not too much work.
Old wiring loom was removed and wires were cut back enough where they are not brittle. I then soldered the repair wires, heat shrunk the repair, and then installed new wiring loom. The electrical FSM has very good instructions on how to apply the tape and remove every type of connector.

The manual transmission harness was in good shape but the wiring loom was rough. I replaced the loom and cleaned out all the connectors of dirt.

Example of old wiring next to repair.

 

[logicbyondreaso]

I went to install a new oil drain plug and gasket..... to only find out it was previously repaired with a heli-coil.
The pan came off for repair. I had a Time-Sert in my toolbox that fit this thread perfectly.
The procedure is easy:

1. Drill out the old threads with the provided drill.
2. Counterbore the opening.
3. Make new threads.
4. Install the Time-Sert bushing.


Helicoil removed

Damaged threads before repair

Old threads drilled out

Counterbore cut

New threads for bushing cut

 

[logicbyondreaso]

Some additional photos.
I am going to sand and paint the pan.

These are the new cut threads for the bushing to screw into.

Bushing installed.

Factory drain bolt and gasket installed.

I taped a cup on the inside of the pan to catch all the shavings. I do not recommend doing this job with the pan on the motor. The shavings were flying around.

View from inside the pan. You can see how the insert sits in the pan.

 

[logicbyondreaso]

Sanded and then painted the oil pan with VHT ceramic paint that was left over from the engine.

Parts came back from coating so I assembled them and installed onto the motor.

I also made progress on getting the clutch and brake pedals installed.

I ran the hard piping from clutch master cylinder down to the frame rail. Though I was expecting to have a capture nut in one location and its not there. All other mounting points were. It does not look like there was any drilling done by previous owner. The bolt at the top of the photo is for a ground wire from the motor. The bracket holding the clutch hose that connects to the slave cylinder and hard line is secured where the arrow points. I ordered a rivnut that I will install in that location for the original bolt to screw into.

 

[logicbyondreaso]

Adding to my previous comment about the LH frame rail not having a capture nut where the clutch line bracket is secured. I found 2 other projects that had this detail photographed and both of them do have the capture nut. I spoke with another member who has a '97 HDJ81 and they too do not have the capture nut.
I checked part diagrams and could not locate any different part numbers for the clutch lines or brackets. This is likely the difference between certain frames. Maybe the US frames had the capture nuts there while other regions were manual/auto specific.

Here are some additional photos of the area in discussion. The hole with oil around it (prepping for drilling out for a riv-nut). LH side, just rear of the shock tower.

On my HDJ80 - the most rear hole, that is threaded, was used as a engine to frame ground.

Take note that the holes are not all in alignment. So, the bracket can not be secured to the hole with the threads. One end of the bracket is bent down to grab the rail to prevent it from turning when the bolt is secured. Trying to bolt the bracket down to the threaded hole, the bent part does not reach the end of the rail to sit flat. This validates that the capture nut is missing where I need to install the bracket.

 

[logicbyondreaso]

Here are some photos of other projects that show the same location where the bracket was installed. No comments of a missing capture nut.

 

[logicbyondreaso]

My plan is to drill out the hole and install a riv-nut. Link to McMaster - # 97467A693

Unless you have the body off the frame. a standard length drill will not fit in that area because because it hits the body.
I picked up a stubby 27/64" drill bit from Amazon. - Link to Amazon - 27/64 Drill Bit

 

[318aye]

Hey, love the work you've done so far! Definitely a level of detail to aspire to. I'm wondering if you've had the turbo rebuilt or replaced? I saw you had the housing coated but given the level of rework you have going on elsewhere I figured you probably had opened the CT26 up.

Cheers!

 

[logicbyondreaso]

Hey, love the work you've done so far! Definitely a level of detail to aspire to. I'm wondering if you've had the turbo rebuilt or replaced? I saw you had the housing coated but given the level of rework you have going on elsewhere I figured you probably had opened the CT26 up.

Cheers!

Thanks!
The CT26 is brand new. I opened it up just to get it coated.

 

[318aye]

Thanks!
The CT26 is brand new. I opened it up just to get it coated.

Ahh ok that tracks. Where did you source / what did you pay if you don't mind my asking?

No interest in any compressor wheel "enhancements"?

 

[logicbyondreaso]

Ahh ok that tracks. Where did you source / what did you pay if you don't mind my asking?

No interest in any compressor wheel "enhancements"?

I sourced it via Impex Japan. If I recall it was about $1400 to my door.
This project is staying OEM for the time being. A turbo upgrade and fueling will occur at some point in the future.

 

[logicbyondreaso]

Installed a new camshaft to complete essentially a brand new motor.
Valve clearance was checked after transferring over the previous heads shims. Ended up needing to shuffle a few of them and only order 2 new ones. Everything is now in specification per FSM.
New timing belt, tensioner, and spring.

 

[logicbyondreaso]

Bolted up the AC compressor and alternator.
The stubby drill bit arrived so I drilled out the hole for clutch line bracket on LH frame rail.
I then painted it and let dry overnight.
Using a bolt, washers, and a nut I made a riv-nut installation tool. Lots of information on this online. Came out very clean.
I then modified the injection pump for a manual transmission. All that needs to be done is remove the TPS and replace the idle up bracket for one specific for a 5-speed. There is also a new lever arm that is installed.
The difference between auto and manual is that the auto has a spot for the kickdown cable to connect to.

For automatic:

For 5-speed:

 

[logicbyondreaso]

I set the pump timing to 1.24mm as a starting point.
Intake parts came back from powder coating so I finished assembling the engine.
I then mated up the HF1A transfer case to the H152 transmission. Bolts torqued to 53ft-lbs.
An item I have not seen pointed out in other threads is the transfer case shift lever size difference between auto and manual.
You will need to obtain the correct length shift rod. For my project, 1HDT/H152/HF1A, the part number is 36308-60150.