- Thread starter
- #161
2 x 12361-17040 (engine mounts)
2 x 90179-12115 (nuts with washer for mount to chassis)
2 x 90179-12024 (nuts for mount to engine block bracket)
12381 is a metal shield. Not replaced unless damaged.
1998 HDJ80 with 1HDT - Refresh (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter logicbyondreaso
- Start date
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2 x 90179-12115 (nuts with washer for mount to chassis)
2 x 90179-12024 (nuts for mount to engine block bracket)
12381 is a metal shield. Not replaced unless damaged.
Excellent, thank you!
- Thread starter
- #163
There is nothing wrong with the current turbo that I am aware of. I am only replacing it to prevent any issues from arising during long trips. Original turbo is 27 years old and like many other aged components they eventually fail from age. An example is the power steering gearbox and pump, and the oil pump. I've worked on very low mileage 80's and seals for these components were ready to go.
I had options of upgrading to something more modern and efficient like the G-Turbo, but I was able to get this new oem turbo for less. I am not aiming for big power but rather something that can last a long time. The CT-26 has proven to last a long time. Here are some photos of it:
Japanese translated:
I had options of upgrading to something more modern and efficient like the G-Turbo, but I was able to get this new oem turbo for less. I am not aiming for big power but rather something that can last a long time. The CT-26 has proven to last a long time. Here are some photos of it:
Japanese translated:
Nice. Where did you find that - are they readily available new?
- Thread starter
- #165
I’m not sure about readily available, but maybe they are.
I got it through Impex Japan. Around $1300 before shipping.
I got it through Impex Japan. Around $1300 before shipping.
Super nice truck and attention to detail here. Following along so I can dream of a diesel 80 one day.
- Thread starter
- #167
I am adding a transmission cooler to my HDJ80 with the automatic transmission. I've traced verified that the flow path via my LX450 is as follows:
Out of the transmission the fluid enters the radiator on the passenger side (RH) and exists on the driver side (LH).
Without the external cooler, the fluid is returned to the transmission.
With the cooler, the fluid is routed out of the radiator to the external cooler inlet port which is the bottom one.
Fluid exists the top of the external cooler and is returned to the transmission.
Here are some photos of the routing. Note the radiator is not installed.
Red = hot fluid out of transmission to radiator inlet on passenger side
Blue = cooled fluid return to transmission
Orange = fluid from radiator to external cooler. Without the cooler it is returned direct to transmission return tube.
There is a duplex hard pipe that is bolted just below the driver headlight. The hoses connect to it.
Fluid leaving the radiator (orange line) connects to the lower hard pipe and is then routed to the external inlet port (bottom) of external cooler.
Out of the transmission the fluid enters the radiator on the passenger side (RH) and exists on the driver side (LH).
Without the external cooler, the fluid is returned to the transmission.
With the cooler, the fluid is routed out of the radiator to the external cooler inlet port which is the bottom one.
Fluid exists the top of the external cooler and is returned to the transmission.
Here are some photos of the routing. Note the radiator is not installed.
Red = hot fluid out of transmission to radiator inlet on passenger side
Blue = cooled fluid return to transmission
Orange = fluid from radiator to external cooler. Without the cooler it is returned direct to transmission return tube.
There is a duplex hard pipe that is bolted just below the driver headlight. The hoses connect to it.
Fluid leaving the radiator (orange line) connects to the lower hard pipe and is then routed to the external inlet port (bottom) of external cooler.
- Thread starter
- #168
I replaced the bolted on Toyota ball hitch with a pintle hook for looks. I have not been able to find a part number for the removed ball hitch. Maybe @OGBeno or @cruiserdan know?
1 x Pintle hook: 51980-600112
2 x Eye Bolts: 51985-60011
2 x Washer: 94512-01200
2 x Nut: 90170-12018
2 x Bolt: 90119-12263
1 x Pintle hook: 51980-600112
2 x Eye Bolts: 51985-60011
2 x Washer: 94512-01200
2 x Nut: 90170-12018
2 x Bolt: 90119-12263
Seems to me the hook is much more specific than the ball hitch. I need something line your ball hitch or maybe the hook set up. Those 4 holes on the rear bumper are bothering me.
I doubt that ball platform is factory. It looks too crude to me.
- Thread starter
- #171
Is that a JDM truck? If not, which market?
EDIT:
I went back to the first of this thread. That is most likely a distributor-sourced local accessory. Much like the platform hitches sold here in the US.
Last edited:
If you would like to sell the ball hitch, name you price.
- Thread starter
- #174
I finished installing the transmission cooler. With the factory electric winch, the hose routing was a little more difficult due to available space for your hands. I ended up removing the winch solenoid in the fender to properly route the lines and ensure nothing was kinked or will rub away. The two hoses that are routed in the engine bay (under the battery, LH side of radiator) are also sleeved with an abrasion resisting layer.
Napa had 3/8" Gates transmission hose that I warmed up before installation. Using some ATF as a lubricant they went on, tight, but without any issues. I did require new size of constant tension hose clamps since the OEM ones do not fit the Gates hose.
The Lisle valve keeper installation/removal tool finally arrived and I began replacing the valve seals with the head installed.
Lisle Valve Keeper Tool -> Makes the removal and installation of the keeper very easy and fast.
Valve Stem Seal Pliers -> A must have tool if you are doing this job. Grabs the seal tight and prevents damage.
Glow Plug Compression Tester Adapter - > This part is two pieces. I removed the gauge connector side and made an adapter for my air compressor.
I purchased new valve seals, a few keepers incase they went flying or were damaged, new springs, and new valve spring retainers. With the cam out, I will also replace the thrust plate and camshaft bearing. Before installing the camshaft, I will measure and document current valve shim thicknesses as I need to do a valve adjustment after it is all together.
90913-02094 - Valve Seals (12) -> same for exhaust/intake
90913-03014 - Valve Spring Retainer Lock (aka keeper) (24) -> same for exhaust/intake
90504-49001 - Valve Compression Spring (12) -> same for exhaust/intake
13741-54020 - Valve Spring Retainer (12) -> same for exhaust/intake
11801-17010 - Camshaft Bearing
13571-17010 - Camshaft Thrust Plate
The procedure to do the valve stems is quick and easy but you do need to focus or else you may drop a valve. With the camshaft removed, I can rotate the engine to position any cylinder at TDC without fear of bending a valve. The reason you want TDC is because it will be less volume for the compressor to fill. Also, if for any reason you lose air pressure and the valve falls into the cylinder, it should be recoverable as it wont fully vanish.
Position the cylinder you are working on at TDC and charge the cylinder with 15-20psi. No more or you may rotate the engine and lose a valve. I rigged up an adapter for my compressor to use the glow plug port using the above mentioned adapter from Lang. I used long Zip-Ties to verify the cylinder was at TDC by probing the depth through the glow plug port and watching when it stopped rising while I rotated the crankshaft.
Once everything is set, I used the Lisle tool to remove and install the keepers. You can find a lot of videos online to visualize how the tool works.
Valve seals come out using the seal tool with a twisting and upward motion. To install new seals, I found a socket (I think 12mm) that fits over it and used a small hammer to set in place.
I have completed 4 cylinders and have #5/6 left. I may need to remove the hood to get proper clearance to use the tool near the firewall.
External Transmission Cooler Installed
Cylinder #1 intake valve spring removed with visual on seal. You can also see the compressor connection into the glow plug.
Closeup of intake valve on cylinder #1.
Cylinders 1-4 replaced parts.
Napa had 3/8" Gates transmission hose that I warmed up before installation. Using some ATF as a lubricant they went on, tight, but without any issues. I did require new size of constant tension hose clamps since the OEM ones do not fit the Gates hose.
The Lisle valve keeper installation/removal tool finally arrived and I began replacing the valve seals with the head installed.
Lisle Valve Keeper Tool -> Makes the removal and installation of the keeper very easy and fast.
Valve Stem Seal Pliers -> A must have tool if you are doing this job. Grabs the seal tight and prevents damage.
Glow Plug Compression Tester Adapter - > This part is two pieces. I removed the gauge connector side and made an adapter for my air compressor.
I purchased new valve seals, a few keepers incase they went flying or were damaged, new springs, and new valve spring retainers. With the cam out, I will also replace the thrust plate and camshaft bearing. Before installing the camshaft, I will measure and document current valve shim thicknesses as I need to do a valve adjustment after it is all together.
90913-02094 - Valve Seals (12) -> same for exhaust/intake
90913-03014 - Valve Spring Retainer Lock (aka keeper) (24) -> same for exhaust/intake
90504-49001 - Valve Compression Spring (12) -> same for exhaust/intake
13741-54020 - Valve Spring Retainer (12) -> same for exhaust/intake
11801-17010 - Camshaft Bearing
13571-17010 - Camshaft Thrust Plate
The procedure to do the valve stems is quick and easy but you do need to focus or else you may drop a valve. With the camshaft removed, I can rotate the engine to position any cylinder at TDC without fear of bending a valve. The reason you want TDC is because it will be less volume for the compressor to fill. Also, if for any reason you lose air pressure and the valve falls into the cylinder, it should be recoverable as it wont fully vanish.
Position the cylinder you are working on at TDC and charge the cylinder with 15-20psi. No more or you may rotate the engine and lose a valve. I rigged up an adapter for my compressor to use the glow plug port using the above mentioned adapter from Lang. I used long Zip-Ties to verify the cylinder was at TDC by probing the depth through the glow plug port and watching when it stopped rising while I rotated the crankshaft.
Once everything is set, I used the Lisle tool to remove and install the keepers. You can find a lot of videos online to visualize how the tool works.
Valve seals come out using the seal tool with a twisting and upward motion. To install new seals, I found a socket (I think 12mm) that fits over it and used a small hammer to set in place.
I have completed 4 cylinders and have #5/6 left. I may need to remove the hood to get proper clearance to use the tool near the firewall.
External Transmission Cooler Installed
Cylinder #1 intake valve spring removed with visual on seal. You can also see the compressor connection into the glow plug.
Closeup of intake valve on cylinder #1.
Cylinders 1-4 replaced parts.
Awesome work. Any details on your compressor adapter? This looks fairly easygoing. What did you notice to indicate the valve seals were degraded? Oil in the intake? Blow by? Thanks.
- Thread starter
- #176
Glow Plug Compression Tester Adapter - > This part is two pieces. I removed the gauge connector side and made an adapter for my air compressor.
This is the part that screws into the glow plug. I then picked up 1/8" x 1/4" nipple that screwed into my compressor coupling. My compressor has a pressure regulator that I continuously kept an eye on to stay within 15-20psi.
I have some blue smoke at cold startup that quickly goes away. I also noted that glow plugs of Cylinder 2 and 3 were oily/wet when I pulled them out. My compression numbers were good with lowest figures at Cyl 2 and 3. I suspect these seals of these two cylinders are bad but since its all apart I will service all.
Excellent, thanks. I haven’t seen any blue smoke but I will keep an eye out. I have just a quick puff of black smoke then hardly anything. I have seen a slight haze in the drivers side mirror at night when car lights behind me illuminate the area but nothing more.
Things the thread that keeps on giving!
I’m super curious where you moved your winch solenoid to, I have the factory electric winch as well, and am doing everything I can to keep it in tandem with a PDI intercooler install I’m about to get to. A lot of folks seem to say they will not work with each other but I’m having a hard time accepting it.
I believe one of the PDI pipes goes right through where the solenoid under the right side battery is as well
- Thread starter
- #179
I have not done any research on the intercooler to see if it will fit. My 80 has rear AC so there is an auxiliary fan in front of the radiator. Now I also installed the transmission cooler that takes up the other side. I doubt I have any space to fit an intercooler up front. If I go intercooler route - it will be top side.
- Thread starter
- #180
All buttoned up with a new black valve cover.
