1998 HDJ80 with 1HDT - Refresh (5 Viewers)

[logicbyondreaso]

Did you ever get your exhaust?
I can't get an update and Jimmy quit responding to emails.

No I have not. Order was placed early Nov. I got an update saying they were delayed because some welders left with a new ship date of mid Dec. Jimmy has not answered any of my messages either besides the update.
I called them last week and they said they moved facilities and now expect to ship mid/late February. I requested to cancel my order but seems like they are ignoring those requests. Not sure what’s going on.

 

[s13koop]

Damn. Yea I called too last week and was told same. Moving warehouses. Said to check back end of Jan.
If no update by then I may just file a dispute/charge back.

 

[duece71]

Which company are you both ordering from?

 

[s13koop]

Torqit direct in NSW

 

[duece71]

Huh, I had great service, fast shipping and a helpful exchange rate. Sounds like the move to a new facility and losing employees have put them way behind. Strange about lack of communication though. I hope everything gets resolved quick.

 

[s13koop]

Yea, Its not been a great experience so far.
I reached out during BF to catch the deals, they didn't respond until after, and even then its been super spotty since.

 

[duece71]

Yea, Its not been a great experience so far.
I reached out during BF to catch the deals, they didn't respond until after, and even then its been super spotty since.

Well, I hope you can get your money back at least. Sorry to hear about the bad experience.

 

[logicbyondreaso]

The pump is out. I used a $14 tool from Autozone. Took a few turns and it "popped".
OEMTOOLS Industrial Timing Gear Puller (part #57009)

The pump has some marking indicating it may have been serviced, tuned, or other on September 16, 2013.

 

[logicbyondreaso]

Removing injector seats was not an easy task. Every single one was tightly secured in its chamber.
If you are going to do this job - remember to take a break if you are getting frustrated. It will only lead to damage as posted by others with that experience.

I first tried to use the tap method (M8x1.25) on cylinder 1 to grab the washer and pull it out but that did not work. It made a nice thread and started to bite onto the steel of the head. It also started to enlarge the opening from upward pulling force. I then tried an M9 tap but it also started to enlarge the opening. I stepped away.
I soaked each seat with penetrating oil a few times over a couple hours and let it sit over night. Wanting to start with a fresh seat and thinking the penetrating oil did its job I tried the tap method again on cylinder 2. Similar results but I had more knowledge of when to stop. At this point I changed my tool selection. I had a set of Craftsman bolt extractors. The #5 fit the washer and did not bite onto the head. I stuck it into cylinder 3 and with a large ratchet it started to rotate. It took a lot of force to break it loose. Once it was able to easily rotate, I applied an upward force to slowly start "screwing" it out. I did this for cylinder 4, 5, 6 and had them out in minutes. If I had to do this again - this would be my method.
To extract numbers 1 and 2 I tried to cut down the bolt extractor to a wider section to prevent it from biting onto the head but that did not work. I ended up finding a standard long bolt that was slightly larger than an M9. It was larger than the injector tip hole that goes into the cylinder. I screwed it into the seat and kept rotating it to "jack" up the injector seat. This worked great. It slowly made its way to the top. I feared that the steel would have damage but it did not. I think the penetrating oil and dull end of the bolt saved it. Each cylinder has a nice smooth injector seat.

I noticed the freeze plug between cylinders 1 and 2 was not square and looked much cleaner than the rest. I had a new set of these so I removed it. Large flat punch to the side and it rotated. Then vise grips to pull it out. Looks clean inside.
Before removing the oil cooler, I washed the area with soapy warm water to remove debris and grime. It came out easy.

I pulled out the power steering pump to rebuild it. Looks like someone had a leak they quickly fixed with some RTV in the past. I have the OEM kit to replace all seals.

 

[logicbyondreaso]

Power steering pump rebuilt. Brittle old seals.
I also removed the coolant nipple for ACSD and will plug up the port with a freeze plug.

 

[OGBeno]

^^ That’s a lot of work to do in the engine bay. Good job.

 

[logicbyondreaso]

Thank you, Onur! It has been tight and often uncomfortable but eventually it just becomes the normal. There has been moments when I tried to convince myself to just pull the entire drivetrain.

I cleaned up the oil cooler mating surfaces and inspected the block for obvious cracks and debris. Nothing found. I picked up a new cooler cover that does not have the ACSD coolant nipple to properly delete this system. The oil cooler itself took a little bit of time to clean before transferring over to the new cover with new gaskets (12ft-lbs). I replaced the check and relief valves with new. Using new bolts/nuts I secured it in place (14ft-lbs).

While access was very easy, I replaced the oil pressure sending unit.

My 1HDT has the water temperature sensor in the coolant pipe just forward of the intake manifold. The port on the oil cooler gets plugged up. I am thinking I could use this port in the future to get a digital temperature gauge. I have been reading into the Lutz Auto oem clock replacement computer as a clean option.

Finally, I removed the head ACSD coolant nipple and replaced it with a freeze plug. Now the system is properly deleted. I did not plan on pulling out the first freeze plug so I am short on one. $4 at the dealer and I will have it in soon.

 

[logicbyondreaso]

New injectors, seats, glow plugs, and hardware installed.
Once I get the injection pump in and timing belt on, I can start working on the valve seals.
I need to find an adapter for the glow plug hole to connect my air compressor to. This will be used to hold valves shut when I remove the springs and seals.

I began working on the engine mounts. The driver side was the first to be replaced. The rubber had failed all the way around in multiple places.

 

[duece71]

New injectors, seats, glow plugs, and hardware installed.
Once I get the injection pump in and timing belt on, I can start working on the valve seals.
I need to find an adapter for the glow plug hole to connect my air compressor to. This will be used to hold valves shut when I remove the springs and seals.

I began working on the engine mounts. The driver side was the first to be replaced. The rubber had failed all the way around in multiple places.

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How did you replace the engine mounts? Did you use an engine hoist to lift the engine slightly? Just curious as I want to replace the engine mounts as well.

 

[logicbyondreaso]

How did you replace the engine mounts? Did you use an engine hoist to lift the engine slightly? Just curious as I want to replace the engine mounts as well.

I did not use an engine hoist. For the driver side, I currently have the injection pump removed so access is very easy but likely still doable if it were in. For the passenger side, I just removed the airbox and turbo inlet piping and had all the access I needed.

I put a 12 ton bottle jack on the bell housing/motor interface but shifted to the side I was working on. The jack has a relatively large contact surface area that created a force distribution. I used it to take the weight of the motor when I removed the mount. I also put a jack on the front of the motor just rear of the crank pulley. I did use a short piece of wood between jack/motor here. This jack was used primarily as a backup.
I loosened the 2 nuts of the engine mount and the 4 bolts of the engine block bracket. Then, I adjusted the jacks height until the bracket/mount were loose. This told me everything was balanced and was not going to shift when I fully removed the mount and bracket. Both sides came out without any issues. About 30 minutes per side.
The transfer case mount was much easier as you have full access. Put a jack on the transfer case to take the load and drop the cross member. This took 15 minutes at most.

 

[duece71]

I did not use an engine hoist. For the driver side, I currently have the injection pump removed so access is very easy but likely still doable if it were in. For the passenger side, I just removed the airbox and turbo inlet piping and had all the access I needed.

I put a 12 ton bottle jack on the bell housing/motor interface but shifted to the side I was working on. The jack has a relatively large contact surface area that created a force distribution. I used it to take the weight of the motor when I removed the mount. I also put a jack on the front of the motor just rear of the crank pulley. I did use a short piece of wood between jack/motor here. This jack was used primarily as a backup.
I loosened the 2 nuts of the engine mount and the 4 bolts of the engine block bracket. Then, I adjusted the jacks height until the bracket/mount were loose. This told me everything was balanced and was not going to shift when I fully removed the mount and bracket. Both sides came out without any issues. About 30 minutes per side.
The transfer case mount was much easier as you have full access. Put a jack on the transfer case to take the load and drop the cross member. This took 15 minutes at most.

Sounds good, I thought the engine had to be lifted up higher for clearance. Maybe I will tackle this when the weather gets a bit warmer. Shutdown provides a good shake so the engine mounts may be a bit worse for wear. Yes, the transfer case mount further to the rear looks much more accessible. Probably do that one first? Thanks for the description.

 

[logicbyondreaso]

Just like many others and I saw with the 1FZ - if the mounts are original then they are very likely worn out.
Yes, the transfer case one is very easy to do and you could start there.
You need to lift the motor if you leave the motor mount brackets attached for the block. I removed mine during the process and that did not require me to lift the engine much. Just enough to align the bolts when I installed everything.

 

[duece71]

Just like many others and I saw with the 1FZ - if the mounts are original then they are very likely worn out.
Yes, the transfer case one is very easy to do and you could start there.
You need to lift the motor if you leave the motor mount brackets attached for the block. I removed mine during the process and that did not require me to lift the engine much. Just enough to align the bolts when I installed everything.

If I order new motor mounts, do I just get the rubber mount or the brackets as well? I haven’t crawled under there to really look at it in depth. Should the brackets be replaced as well?

 

[logicbyondreaso]

You do not need to replace the brackets. I removed them because its much easier to get the mount out that way.
I replaced the two nuts that hold the mount in place on each side.

 

[duece71]

You do not need to replace the brackets. I removed them because its much easier to get the mount out that way.
I replaced the two nuts that hold the mount in place on each side.

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Ok, sounds good. probably a good idea to get new hardware, nuts, washers. Looking at the parts diagram, you just ordered “12361” and then “90179-12024” and either “90179-12090 or 12115”? Is “12381” some sort of spacer? Thanks.