Where did you end up placing the winch solenoid?
Watching along and enjoying the thread, helps me with where I want to go with mine
1998 HDJ80 with 1HDT - Refresh (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter logicbyondreaso
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Watching along and enjoying the thread, helps me with where I want to go with mine
- Thread starter
- #182
I think my wording might have been misleading - I removed it from the fender so I can swing it out of the way to gain access for routing the hoses. I did not fully remove it from the car.
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- #183
I will be installing the rebuilt injection pump this weekend.
When I look up the injection pump timing specification there are two different values for earlier and later year motors. However, I think the earlier specification only applies to 1990-1993. 1994 to 1997 1HD-T in the 80 series would follow the later specification.
The RM617E FSM was written specifically for the 100/105 series. I spot checked a number of parts between a 1997 80 series and a 1998 100/105 series and they are all the same for the 1HD-T. Not the case when I spot check the 1990-1993 models.
This leads me to believe that the 1HD-T plunger specification for 1994-1997 is 1.18mm - 1.24mm. This is what I will be following.
Earlier - FSM RM172E (Feb 1990)
Later - FSM RM617E (Jan 1998)
When I look up the injection pump timing specification there are two different values for earlier and later year motors. However, I think the earlier specification only applies to 1990-1993. 1994 to 1997 1HD-T in the 80 series would follow the later specification.
The RM617E FSM was written specifically for the 100/105 series. I spot checked a number of parts between a 1997 80 series and a 1998 100/105 series and they are all the same for the 1HD-T. Not the case when I spot check the 1990-1993 models.
This leads me to believe that the 1HD-T plunger specification for 1994-1997 is 1.18mm - 1.24mm. This is what I will be following.
Earlier - FSM RM172E (Feb 1990)
Later - FSM RM617E (Jan 1998)
We have found that there is a very wide range of acceptable operating parameters for timing the pump to the engine.
The FSM values are a good place to start for timing. Once it's in there and you start testing it, be prepared to modify timing based on your own operating parameters. Very rarely do we see an IP that stays to the range that the FSM states.
The FSM values are a good place to start for timing. Once it's in there and you start testing it, be prepared to modify timing based on your own operating parameters. Very rarely do we see an IP that stays to the range that the FSM states.
- Thread starter
- #185
I figured I would be making fine adjustments afterwards.
Curious if you see any pattern related to mileage assuming a stock configuration?
Do you typically start at 1.24mm and go from there?
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- #186
I had Battery Cables USA make me a new ground cable. Very easy to use their site to custom make any cable you wish. This was about $23 shipped. Existing cable was on the way out.
You may be surprised by how many diesel motor components you can obtain from a USA dealer. I picked up a new starter and the shorter side of exhaust manifold.
When you buy the part number 17142-17H00 you get the short manifold but also the heat shield. Though, the heat shield is for a 1HZ I believe. It should fit the 1HDT but not have full coverage for the turbo.
You may be surprised by how many diesel motor components you can obtain from a USA dealer. I picked up a new starter and the shorter side of exhaust manifold.
When you buy the part number 17142-17H00 you get the short manifold but also the heat shield. Though, the heat shield is for a 1HZ I believe. It should fit the 1HDT but not have full coverage for the turbo.
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- #187
Injection pump arrived. I used Diesel Fuel Injection Services in Portland, OR. Cost $1,100 for a reseal and calibration.
I installed the pump and adjusted it to 1.24mm plunger stroke as a starting point.
New intake manifold gaskets and hardware
I installed the pump and adjusted it to 1.24mm plunger stroke as a starting point.
New intake manifold gaskets and hardware
I keep revisiting this thread because it's all things I'm getting prepared to do, and greatly appreciate you the sharing of the process, thank you @logicbyondreaso
I'm curious if anyone watching this thread knows if there's a difference between the injectors installed here(23600-17032) and the ones needed for an early 1hd(23600-17010) which I need to track down. Seat thickness? Actual difference in the spray pattern of internals of the injectors themselves? I'm also ok with buying a set new to reduce downtime and to have a spare set, but the injector for my model is discontinued/not available any longer
I am curious as to what is an “early” 1-HDT. 1990 built?
Mine is a 1990, and I believe I read there were a couple changes made to injectors around 92 or in 94? Just kind of unsure and curious as to what the difference in injectors are as most folks say you can’t use post 94(?) 1hdt injectiors in an earlier 1hdt.
Ok, I have a 1990 as well and would be interested in differences as well.
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- #192
I reviewed these two injector assemblies and found only 1 difference: the Capsule Sub-Assy. Every other component has same part numbers. This tells me that is the only difference. I was not able to find just this part available for purchase.
Part Numbers Compared:
1990 1HD-T -> 23661-17010
1997 1HD-T -> 23661-17030
However, when I search the part number you referenced (23600-17010) for the complete injector, Amayama.com shows it as available for $246/injector. I am not saying it's guaranteed but it's worth taking a shot and based on quantity available figure I bet they have it. I have used them before. If they are NLA, you will get a refund. Link to Amayama.com
Another source, Impex Japan, shows it available as well for about $188/injector. I have used them as well. Link to Impex Japan.com
A 3rd source also shows it available for $391/injector. Link to Mega Zip.net
As a final option the Denso part number for the 23600-17010 injector is 093500-4350 (please check). Mud thread on this subject.
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This is great, thank you for researching this.
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- #194
Everything is back together. New fuel hoses and hand primer assembly. I found all the correct fuel hose clips to keep them in position and from vibrating.
I bled the fuel pump/lines by leaving the injection lines loose at the injector and then cranked over the engine. Once I had fuel coming out, I tightened them up to FSM spec (18 ft-lbs). It took a few minutes for the engine to smooth out.
I took it for a test drive - notable amount of pep on the low end and very strong power through the gear shifts. the 10% added power by fuel pump rebuilder is notable... or maybe it's from refreshing the entire fuel injection system.
I bled the fuel pump/lines by leaving the injection lines loose at the injector and then cranked over the engine. Once I had fuel coming out, I tightened them up to FSM spec (18 ft-lbs). It took a few minutes for the engine to smooth out.
I took it for a test drive - notable amount of pep on the low end and very strong power through the gear shifts. the 10% added power by fuel pump rebuilder is notable... or maybe it's from refreshing the entire fuel injection system.
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- Thread starter
- #195
I swapped over to a cloth interior. Still have to do the door cards.
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- #196
Highway and town test drives complete. No visible leaks from the oil cooler like I had prior to the maintenance. The power of this motor is amazing.
I will be installing the OEM cruise control. I have the motor mounted and have the rest of the parts needed to make it functional.
The engine bay looks very empty without the second battery. Would be nice for @Delta VS or @TRAIL TAILOR or @eimkeith to fabricate a storage box that bolts in place. Storing tools and fluids there would be great.
I will be installing the OEM cruise control. I have the motor mounted and have the rest of the parts needed to make it functional.
The engine bay looks very empty without the second battery. Would be nice for @Delta VS or @TRAIL TAILOR or @eimkeith to fabricate a storage box that bolts in place. Storing tools and fluids there would be great.
Have seen lots of folks use the oem battery tray for exactly that
Did you convert back to 12v starting hence the elimination of the 2nd battery? Just curious.
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- #199
No, this model is 12v and single battery.
That is the alternative plan. I may go down the wormhole of designing one myself and making them available if nothing else emerges.
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- #200
Center stop lamp was not working so I took it apart. From reading other posts the most common issue is a zener diode that fails. $8 part from Amazon and a few minutes with the soldering iron. Back to working condition.
Link to part on Amazon
Old zener removed
New zener installed
Link to part on Amazon
Old zener removed
New zener installed
