1998 HDJ80 with 1HDT - Refresh (3 Viewers)

[logicbyondreaso]

I started to work on the knuckle rebuild. Standard mess. Bearing races show wear and will be replaced with new KOYO from @cruiseroutfit. @NLXTACY seal driver came in handy and worked well with existing driver kit I had.

One snag - the RH axle oil baffle / guide ring dislodged easily when cleaning out the tube of grease. This topic has come up in the past on this forum. There is a shoulder where this ring sits and was likely press fitted in or tack welded from factory. When inserting the shaft this ring is used as a guide for alignment and fulcrum off of. Inserting the shaft aggressively or applying to much force could have been the result of why its not staying in place.
I test fitted it back onto the shoulder and it fits loosely. My plan is to clean everything up and use a JB Weld to lightly coat the surfaces with intent of it staying in place once cured. This ring does not see any forces besides those during shaft installation.
All new brake hoses, rotors, and calipers will be installed along with 100 series pads.

LH seal installed. You can see the baffle / guide ring in place.

 

[logicbyondreaso]

I’ve freed the 80 from the anti-theft gear shifter lock device! Took 10 minutes…
I will drill out the holes, touchup with paint, and fill with correct size rubber grommet plugs.
Also, time to take apart the dash to replace the heater core. Great opportunity for a full scrub and familiarization with this one.

 

[logicbyondreaso]

Replaced the visors with new OEM.

 

[logicbyondreaso]

The guide ring / oil baffle fix worked great!
I cleaned up the ring and seat area with brake cleaner very well. Blew it free of debris to ensure a good bond.
I used the other side for orientation reference. I applied 5 spots of JB Weld Marine to the seat and gently guided the ring before rotating it 90º to smear the application.
I applied a few small dabs of JB after the ring was in place over the joint to create another point of adhesion. I then let it cure for 4 days.
Before installing the shaft, I applied a good amount of force onto to the ring to simulate shear forces that would be seen during shaft insertion. It did not budge.
Oil seal and shaft were installed before everything was buttoned up.
Axle thrust washer and lock nuts were chewed up and replaced with new.

Guide ring just before I rotated it to final position.

Old chewed up hardware.

Worn groves into thrust washer

All new hardware

New OEM rotors, calipers, pads, and hoses. Locking hubs were serviced.

 

[logicbyondreaso]

While I was torquing the caliper bolts to 90 ft-lbs, one of them did not come close to reaching that value. After a closer look, the threads were stripped and/or previously repaired with a heli-coil.
I used an oversized Time-Sert to restore the threads to maintain oem bolt.

Damaged threads

Drilled out

A shoulder is cut into the hole via provided tool

New threads are made for the insert.

Insert is driven into hole with provided tool. I applied Loctite to insert threads

 

[logicbyondreaso]

Here is the final product. I let Loctite cure and then was able to torque the bolts to 90 ft-lbs.

Comparison between the standard size Time-Sert and oversized one I used.

 

[logicbyondreaso]

I changed the rear and front diff fluids. No concerning chips or evidence of water entry. Installed new OEM gaskets and torqued to spec.
The last fluid to change was the transfer case. I started with removing the fill plug but that proved to be difficult because it was partially rounded and really on there. My 24mm rounded the plug even more. To remove it, I chiseled a notch and beat it off with a flat punch. It took some efforts and different positions to finally get loose. You can see in the photos below how many times the material failed and I had to start in a new location. No signs of using any RTV. I think the metal gasket has been reused too may times that it turned into a locking mechanism. I will be replacing both filler and drain plugs with the magnet and Allen key.

All of the mauled material is part of the plug and metal gasket.

 

[logicbyondreaso]

The next project is to replace the heater core which is leaking. During this process I will replace the A/C evaporator (front), TXV, condenser and drier. This 80 has the dual A/C with no fridge box running R134.
I've seen some information on refrigerant capacities in various posts, but does anyone have a screenshot of the FSM calling out these specs including the oil?
The stickers under the hood are gone. If anyone has dual A/C - can you snap a photo of your under hood sticker?

 

[logicbyondreaso]

I removed the HVAC system from inside the cab after having a shop evacuate the refrigerant. I was expecting 3.3lbs (1,500g) of refrigerant to be evacuated but only 1.2lbs was recovered. It's a dual AC 80 without the console fridge. Will pull a vacuum after this is done to confirm system is tight before recharge.
Cleaning is in progress. I broke down all the components for a deep clean and re-foam all doors and seals.
A new OEM heater core, TXV, evap, condenser and drier will be installed. I found matching o-rings for the heater core pipes from McMaster. I opted for Viton material for the resistance to various chemicals and high/low temperatures.
Link to McMaster Product Page (1295N241)

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Great work here. Way to do a proper baseline. Thanks for sharing!

 

[ikarus]

Man I don't need to do this but I want to, while OEM is still available. ya know

 

[mudgudgeon]

I changed the rear and front diff fluids. No concerning chips or evidence of water entry. Installed new OEM gaskets and torqued to spec.
The last fluid to change was the transfer case. I started with removing the fill plug but that proved to be difficult because it was partially rounded and really on there. My 24mm rounded the plug even more. To remove it, I chiseled a notch and beat it off with a flat punch. It took some efforts and different positions to finally get loose. You can see in the photos below how many times the material failed and I had to start in a new location. No signs of using any RTV. I think the metal gasket has been reused too may times that it turned into a locking mechanism. I will be replacing both filler and drain plugs with the magnet and Allen key.

All of the mauled material is part of the plug and metal gasket.
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View attachment 3370120

View attachment 3370117

I found the 24mm fill/drain plugs much easier to undo after grinding the end of a single hex 24mm socket so it's flat and has square shoulders at the new top of the socket.

Lots of sockets have a slight bevel on the edges at the end. The bevelled edge makes it easy to locate a socket on a nut, but on a flat plug, it means you don't have much contact with the plug head edges/flats.

Grinding the socket gives you maximum possible contact

 

[mudgudgeon]

I removed the HVAC system from inside the cab after having a shop evacuate the refrigerant. I was expecting 3.3lbs (1,500g) of refrigerant to be evacuated but only 1.2lbs was recovered. It's a dual AC 80 without the console fridge. Will pull a vacuum after this is done to confirm system is tight before recharge.
Cleaning is in progress. I broke down all the components for a deep clean and re-foam all doors and seals.
A new OEM heater core, TXV, evap, condenser and drier will be installed. I found matching o-rings for the heater core pipes from McMaster. I opted for Viton material for the resistance to various chemicals and high/low temperatures.
Link to McMaster Product Page (1295N241)
View attachment 3384749
View attachment 3384750
View attachment 3384753
View attachment 3384751
View attachment 3384752

I want to do this, but it scares me

 

[DivByZero]

I want to do this, but it scares me

I did a dry run - pulled out the dash of an 80 in a self service wrecker, just to figure it out. Not as scary as it looks. I'll probably do the same one day, a new heater core is on the list of parts I'd like to stash.

 

[mudgudgeon]

I did a dry run - pulled out the dash of an 80 in a self service wrecker, just to figure it out. Not as scary as it looks. I'll probably do the same one day, a new heater core is on the list of parts I'd like to stash.

I've had the dash out of a couple of cruisers.
There's always spare screws at the end
That and it means opening up the AC system, replacing dryer, TX, and re-gassing

The AC smells dirty. Would be good to clean this all out

 

[logicbyondreaso]

I found the 24mm fill/drain plugs much easier to undo after grinding the end of a single hex 24mm socket so it's flat and has square shoulders at the new top of the socket.

Lots of sockets have a slight bevel on the edges at the end. The bevelled edge makes it easy to locate a socket on a nut, but on a flat plug, it means you don't have much contact with the plug head edges/flats.

Grinding the socket gives you maximum possible contact

Great suggestion. I ended up replacing the drain/fills with Allen key type.

 

[logicbyondreaso]

The entire HVAC was disassembled, cleaned, lubricated and new foam installed on doors and connections points with other pieces. Old foam just crumbled.

 

[logicbyondreaso]

I installed the heater core with new Viton o-rings and pressure tested the connections while the unit was out. I pressurized to 16psi and held it for 30 minutes before installation.
I also replaced the ACDS with a new OEM part instead of deleting this feature. Existing part had 250k km on it.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Great suggestion. I ended up replacing the drain/fills with Allen key type.

I have some of those in my parts stash waiting for next fluid change

 

[logicbyondreaso]

A/C evaporator and TXV replaced with new. I also added 45cc of PAG 46 oil to the evaporator prior to installing the TXV.
In addition, I replaced the steering shaft seal with new.
Connected the heater core pipes to remainder of system under the hood with OEM hose 99556-30100 for both sides.
Working on assembling the interior next.

Foam will be replaced prior to installation on the evaporator box assembly.