1994 check engine light. (1 Viewer)

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I just moved to New Hampshire, and it has become Winter. I noticed the check engine light come on and a distinct smell of burning tires, or brakes or something burning. Also the idle has becoming very erratic. I understand there is no simple diagnostic port on a 94. What should I do to begin diagnosing the problem? Thanks for any help
 
Jumper E1 and TE1 on the diagnostic port on the passenger side under the hood to get codes. If memory serves well.
 
Jumper E1 and TE1 on the diagnostic port on the passenger side under the hood to get codes. If memory serves well.

Correct.

To clarify: You will need a paper clip or piece of wire to stick down in to E1 and TE1 with the vehicle off. Then turn the ignition to on but don’t try to start it. Then count the number of flashes. It will repeat indefinitely on a loop. E1 and T1 are labeled on the cover for the diagnostic Port. It is a small 1”x2” box on the firewall. It says DIAGNOSTIC on it. Flip it open to the right or left (can’t remember).

For instance: two flashes then a longer pause then six flashes is a code 26. It will then repeat OR give you another code if there is more than one.

Report back what you find.
 
List of codes from the 1994 FSM:

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If you get tired of using a paper clip to get your trouble codes, and don't mind spending around 100 bucks for a quality tool, you can buy a used code scanner off of EBay. The Snap No MT2500 with the correct software will read all the trouble codes on your truck. I used this scanner in my shop until Snap On stopped offering software support for it in 2009. Below you'll see a photo of a current listing on EBay for a MT2500, it's current price is 66 dollars, with 2 days left to go. The nice thing about this scanner, there is a ton of stuff still available for it on EBay. If you have any questions about this scanner, PM me, I'll try to answer them.
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You guys I really appreciate these responses. I was able to get a clear 26 code read.

Where do I go from here?
 
I’d start checking each of the items listed in the service manual for that code. I got a rich code once from a wet O2 connector. Added some dielectric grease to it and it went away after resetting.
 
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On my 94 it would throw 25 and 26, lean and rich, being that my o2s were 17 years old I replaced them. You can get the set from Toyota these are different then 95 and up. I would recommend getting the set from Toyota or you may start chasing the same problem with using aftermarket autozone ones. The Toyota for 94 were NTK . Both these codes affected my idle also
 
Does anyone have a sense of how much time it takes to replace the sensors? Also do I really need to lift the vehicle? And can I get NKT at Napa? Anyone have a link to photos or videos from this job?
 
The o2's are tucked up underneath the passenger side exhaust. Not bad to get too. The biggest issue will be rust. If you have a ton, you may be fighting them for a couple hours. If it's pretty clean, replacement will be 20 minutes. It's an easy :banana: job.
 
Does anyone have a sense of how much time it takes to replace the sensors? Also do I really need to lift the vehicle? And can I get NKT at Napa? Anyone have a link to photos or videos from this job?

When i replaced both of my O2 sensors it took me about 2 hours from start to finish because all 4 mounting nuts on my sensors were eaten away with corrosion, so i had to drop the head pipe and cats to remove them. You'll need to jack up the front end of your truck, and place it on jack stands so you've got room to get underneath it. I'd recommend going with the Toyota O2 sensor kit, (P/N 89465-60110) it not only comes with the sensors, but the gaskets, and nuts too. When i replaced my sensors the Toyota kit, it was less money then buying aftermarket sensors. If you look at the Toyota service procedure linked below, and check out pages 7 to 9 it will walk you through the steps to replace both of your O2 sensors. Plus it includes all the part numbers, and torque settings you'll need to complete the job.
http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/upl...r manual/Service bulletin/T-CP-SO2-0162-W.pdf
 
When i replaced both of my O2 sensors it took me about 2 hours from start to finish because all 4 mounting nuts on my sensors were eaten away with corrosion, so i had to drop the head pipe and cats to remove them. You'll need to jack up the front end of your truck, and place it on jack stands so you've got room to get underneath it. I'd recommend going with the Toyota O2 sensor kit, (P/N 89465-60110) it not only comes with the sensors, but the gaskets, and nuts too. When i replaced my sensors the Toyota kit, it was less money then buying aftermarket sensors. If you look at the Toyota service procedure linked below, and check out pages 7 to 9 it will walk you through the steps to replace both of your O2 sensors. Plus it includes all the part numbers, and torque settings you'll need to complete the job.
http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/uploads/Snowrun/1994 fzj80/1994 Repair manual/Service bulletin/T-CP-SO2-0162-W.pdf


toyota did this campain for free of charge two weeks ago they worked for 4 hours to cut the rusted bolts
 
So here’s a head scratcher. The CEL on my 94 has been turning on after 10/15 minutes of driving and then goes away. I jumped the two ports to check what the code is and I got nothing. The only thing that was blinking was the OD light on the dash. Anyone else seen this before? :hmm:
 
The OD light flashing indicates a fault code with the transmission. Check the FSM as there is a procedure for retrieving the error code similar to code retrieval on the engine.
 

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