- Thread starter
- #301
I really appreciate the amount of help..advice and moral support u guys provide...thank u
Builds 1994 1hz 80 series ZOMBIE (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter MoeGasim
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Can we send you things (on our wallet of course) that you cannot get down there? Like Lithium grease, connectors,...you name it.
I'd love to contribute to your built.
I'd love to contribute to your built.
- Thread starter
- #303
Thank you very much for your kind gesture.....currently im good thanx to @scottryana and @Boltripper.... and already pleading with my cousin to carry what was already sent.... adding anything will probably jeopardize the current items arriving here...
thanx again, and if i do need anything i cant get my hands on i will post here. God bless u
- Thread starter
- #304
at work early today so i can take my break and slip off to see how the car is coming along..... hopefully i will be posting some images later. and lucky me.... found the original battery trays...yes TRAYS...a guy bought a bunch of trays and turned out they were all RHD (UK and Japan)...so i bought the left one for the equivalent of US$18.75 and the right hand one for...........US$6.... 
... finally i can rip off that hideous welding of metal bracket battery 'holder' made by one of the PO.......
... finally i can rip off that hideous welding of metal bracket battery 'holder' made by one of the PO.......
- Thread starter
- #305
yet ANOTHER electrical question.
u all know by now that im doing everything over again..... so....i dont want to use connectors as much as i can....how practical is it for me to pull one continuous wire , for example, from the window motor all the way to the switch...hence...eliminating the previous connectors that were from the motor to the door wires, and the door wires to the floor harness and the connectors from the floor harness to the switch...approximately 4 or 5 connectors....or have like 2 connectors...one connecting to the floor harness and another just prior to the switch....which will provide an easier removal/maintenance if ever needed.
keep in mind i do have all the previous connectors cleaned and ready for soldering....just waiting for the crimping and shrink wraps to arrive. so any way is possible.
any advice?
u all know by now that im doing everything over again..... so....i dont want to use connectors as much as i can....how practical is it for me to pull one continuous wire , for example, from the window motor all the way to the switch...hence...eliminating the previous connectors that were from the motor to the door wires, and the door wires to the floor harness and the connectors from the floor harness to the switch...approximately 4 or 5 connectors....or have like 2 connectors...one connecting to the floor harness and another just prior to the switch....which will provide an easier removal/maintenance if ever needed.
keep in mind i do have all the previous connectors cleaned and ready for soldering....just waiting for the crimping and shrink wraps to arrive. so any way is possible.
any advice?
I like the least amount with future access kept in mind, with that said I would go with one connection at the door to motor, door to body and lastly body to switch. So in this case (power window) three makes sense to me. Remember this is only my opinion!!
- Thread starter
- #307
@newtomelx ...whenever i post and ANYONE replies...i do take their 'opinion' seriously....why....because we are all mudders..and some...like yourself, have more experience than i do....and i agree...three does make sense.
with that being said...i would like to dedicate "Just the Three of Us" (a moegasim remake of "just the two of us"...with an added connector by newtomylx) to my wiring
with that being said...i would like to dedicate "Just the Three of Us" (a moegasim remake of "just the two of us"...with an added connector by newtomylx) to my wiring
You are too kind, but I do appreciate your nice comments. Now whether they are true is another story altogether. LOL Thanks Moe!!
LandBruiser69
It feels good to be lost in the right direction.
Much luck and patience to you man!! looks like you got your hands full!! I am very interested to see this project take shape... It could really end up being cool if you take your time with it..
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- #311
Much luck and patience to you man!! looks like you got your hands full!! I am very interested to see this project take shape... It could really end up being cool if you take your time with it..
thank you.....its always great to see new faces...especially with years of mud up their sleeves
i assure you, im taking as MUCH time as i can to get it to the level i...and probably most viewers here...would want
I am a little disoriented on the picture, but obviously, he has used a cut-off wheel to cut a hole in the frame to access the interior parts. This will allow him to weld the cracks from the back side and to weld in the cross member from the inside. On the next plate he cuts out, have him drill (4) holes in the corners of where he wants to cut out, then run the cutoff wheel into the drilled holes. Square (or "pointy") corners cause a stress point. On the current cut-out hole, have him radius the corners of the HOLE before welding the plate back in.
It appears he is going for full penetration (FP) welds by welding from the back side as well as the front side. However, he will not be able to weld the cut out plate from it's back side. That one MUST be a proper FP weld.
Is the piece INSIDE the frame a piece of angle iron he is using as a backing plate? If so, that's good, he is getting a FP weld by back-gouging and welding with a backing plate inside.
The welds look like E7018 stick and that is probably the best rod for this project.
More pics always help!
It appears he is going for full penetration (FP) welds by welding from the back side as well as the front side. However, he will not be able to weld the cut out plate from it's back side. That one MUST be a proper FP weld.
Is the piece INSIDE the frame a piece of angle iron he is using as a backing plate? If so, that's good, he is getting a FP weld by back-gouging and welding with a backing plate inside.
The welds look like E7018 stick and that is probably the best rod for this project.
More pics always help!
- Thread starter
- #313
@BILT4ME ... the pic is from the front of the cruiser looking down towards the left side (from where im facing) chassis..
Out of respect for the age and experience of this welder...i found it maybe disrespectful to go deeper in and take photos...
but as u described... this is what i think he IS doing...except the drilling holes for the corners of course.
As u may have already found out....everything here in Africa, takes waaaaaaay longer to achieve than most places...so instead of him taking 24 hrs....its now the third day...and tomorrow is the last working day of our week....so...probably wont see any progress on the chassis and body until maybe Sunday or Monday.
Out of respect for the age and experience of this welder...i found it maybe disrespectful to go deeper in and take photos...
but as u described... this is what i think he IS doing...except the drilling holes for the corners of course.
As u may have already found out....everything here in Africa, takes waaaaaaay longer to achieve than most places...so instead of him taking 24 hrs....its now the third day...and tomorrow is the last working day of our week....so...probably wont see any progress on the chassis and body until maybe Sunday or Monday.
I understand completely. That is a very extensive project on the weld repair and it looks like there are a number of locations. One thing you may want to consider (if it's even possible there...) is to have the frame checked for straightness. Maybe just a dream, but who knows. otherwise, you can use strings / tape measures to see if it is square with a bit of ingenuity. The you can use backyard tree mechanics and a winch / Hi-lift to tweak it into shape.
Sometimes it's more expensive if you offer to help.....
I'll admit, I was not expecting to have him cut a giant hole in the side of the frame, as that seems counter-productive...
Sometimes it's more expensive if you offer to help.....
I'll admit, I was not expecting to have him cut a giant hole in the side of the frame, as that seems counter-productive...
- Thread starter
- #315
I too was surprised to see that opening. ..but he said for that specific location. ..it would have been impossible to maintain any other way. ..because of cylindrical thing at that point (in photo).
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- #316
I did ask around a few shops to see who is the best in chassis. ..and almost 90 percent mentioned him..lets just hope for the best...most probably the zombie wont see serious rock crawling or dune jumps...as time does take its toll on how crazy we get with our cruisers..especially when you have kids. ....but I do plan on plenty of travel and camping with family and friends...first trip hopefully will be to our northern region. ..there I can test long road travel and plenty of off road...once all goes well...will do a trip to Asmara....to see how much paperwork is required. ..big hopes....but lets wait till I can first get a key in to start the engine...
Aggiesdm
***** Regular
Hey Moe, in regards to your wiring, connectors are used primarily for ease and security of installation. Production vehicles are done in stages that require a "piece here and a piece there" to be installed, therefore making it impossible to use one continuous harness for the whole truck. They are also used in areas of higher stress due to their increased durability and it makes replacing an entire harness (such as a door harnes), easier than trying to replace one wire into a harness.
That being said, this is your truck and it's already (mostly) assembled, if you can find good passages that don't put a lot of stress or wear on the harness, I say pull solid wires from start to finish. Just be smart and plan for future access in case there is need for repair.
Good luck and feel free to disregard any/all of my advice. My wife does and it seems to work for her.
That being said, this is your truck and it's already (mostly) assembled, if you can find good passages that don't put a lot of stress or wear on the harness, I say pull solid wires from start to finish. Just be smart and plan for future access in case there is need for repair.
Good luck and feel free to disregard any/all of my advice. My wife does and it seems to work for her.
- Thread starter
- #318
Hey @Aggiesdm...I do feel I want to pull some one line connections. ...but afraid if anything goes wrong. .using connectors allows easier access and less wire to repair ....but the one connection I will probably use for power or hot wires...these will already be thick enough to handle stress points and I will add some sort of 'softening' around them
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- Thread starter
- #319
With regards to the wifey....we have a saying here...one ear 'clogged with' mud and the other with flour.. so apparently woman do have things in common besides the love of chocolates and shoes...
- Thread starter
- #320
funny how my car keeps developing.....
went to recondition the engine.....turns out i have a 1HD-T.....not the 1 HZ......no turbo installed !!!!!
is this good or bad....i mean both things....1HD-T vs 1HZ....and turbo vs no turbo
went to recondition the engine.....turns out i have a 1HD-T.....not the 1 HZ......no turbo installed !!!!!
is this good or bad....i mean both things....1HD-T vs 1HZ....and turbo vs no turbo
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