Those aren't rattles .... That's simply the land Cruiser having a conversation with you. 
Builds 1990 LJ78 in Montana (5 Viewers)
- Thread starter AirheadNut
- Start date
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GTSSportCoupe
2LTE abuser
Very nice work! You are fast at getting stuff done on that thing! That is strange that your Isuzu fan goes the wrong way. I got one from a 97 Trooper and it went the right way.
Truck is looking great. I wish mine was still that shiny.
I just bought a Tridon high flow thermostat for my truck (from Ebay Oz). Going to give it a try this summer, will let you know how it goes. I recently compared a 3B thermostat to the stock 2LTE one, and I was struck by just how much larger the 3B one is. Now these two motors make the same power (stock), so in my opinion, they should have the same size thermostat to flow the same amount of coolant to the rad. I know one of the things ATEB does to the 2LTE's up here is modify the thermostat to flow more coolant to the rad. I'd like to know what it is exactly they do. I think they are onto something. Will report soon.... This is the one: HIGH FLOW THERMOSTAT SUIT TOYOTA 4 RUNNER BLIZZARD BUNDERA DYNA HILUX TOYO ACE
Truck is looking great. I wish mine was still that shiny.
I just bought a Tridon high flow thermostat for my truck (from Ebay Oz). Going to give it a try this summer, will let you know how it goes. I recently compared a 3B thermostat to the stock 2LTE one, and I was struck by just how much larger the 3B one is. Now these two motors make the same power (stock), so in my opinion, they should have the same size thermostat to flow the same amount of coolant to the rad. I know one of the things ATEB does to the 2LTE's up here is modify the thermostat to flow more coolant to the rad. I'd like to know what it is exactly they do. I think they are onto something. Will report soon.... This is the one: HIGH FLOW THERMOSTAT SUIT TOYOTA 4 RUNNER BLIZZARD BUNDERA DYNA HILUX TOYO ACE
- Thread starter
- #23
I like that! To be honest, the Cruiser doesn't really rattle, there is just a squeak from the rear doors.Those aren't rattles .... That's simply the land Cruiser having a conversation with you.
Mine must have been a year or two earlier. From what I can tell the belt arrangement changed sometime in the late '90s.
I will be curious to see how that works. I heard about the thermostat housing upgrade, too. It sounds like a good mod. If I weren't so far away, I would consider having it done.
- Thread starter
- #24
I finally got around to installing my pyrometer. To gain some space, I removed the hood.
The install was way easier than I thought it would be. I put it in post-turbo, because it was just not possible to get at the exhaust manifold without tearing everything apart.
My incredible talent showed when I reinstalled the heat shields: it just so happened that I had put the hole so that I didn't even need to do any trimming to clear the thermocouple.
The install was way easier than I thought it would be. I put it in post-turbo, because it was just not possible to get at the exhaust manifold without tearing everything apart.
My incredible talent showed when I reinstalled the heat shields: it just so happened that I had put the hole so that I didn't even need to do any trimming to clear the thermocouple.
- Thread starter
- #25
Then the part I was dreading: wiring. After completely rewiring my brother's '66 VW Fastback, I'm kind of over it.
The pyrometer is floating free right now, because I need to get some sticky backed velcro to hold it in place, but it works really well apart from that.
The pyrometer is floating free right now, because I need to get some sticky backed velcro to hold it in place, but it works really well apart from that.
GTSSportCoupe
2LTE abuser
Nice work! Looking forward to hearing what sort of numbers you see. With a stock engine I was seeing 1100+ on the slightest hill!! My probe is placed exactly how yours is.
- Thread starter
- #27
So far the highest I have seen is 807F on a quarter-mile hill at 100kph with the TQ unlocked. I had to back off because the engine temp started to rise. That is with blocked EGR and a straight pipe on an otherwise stock engine. Hopefully I will have the transmission fixed and an aux cooler installed by the end of the week, so engine temps should be better. Cruising temps are around 650F @ 100kph.
- Thread starter
- #28
About a week ago I replaced the coolant temperature sensor in the engine block in the hopes that it would solve my torque converter lockup issue. The problem seemed to get better, but it didn't go away, so I ordered a set of replacement solenoids. After spending several hours searching trying unsuccessfully to find some pictures of the valve body and solenoids on an A343f, I just went for it. The install was easier than I thought it would be.
The hardest part of the whole job was getting the trans pan off. The shop that changed the fluid and "tested" the solenoids didn't use a gasket when they put it all back together, they just used a gasket sealant. As a result, I spent nearly half an hour with a thin putty knife separating the pan from the transmission. It left quite a mess.
The culprit was the black lockup solenoid, but I went ahead and replaced all three. The two shift solenoids are identical and the lockup is different, so it was pretty self explanatory.
The new filter screen that came in the kit was totally different from the one that was on the transmission, so I just cleaned and reused the old one. I think that the new screen is for an A340E; the packaging said that the kit could be used in either an A343f or an A340E. If anyone needs an A340E filter, let me know.
The transmission feels like it shifts better, and I haven't had it jump out of lockup yet, so I am hoping that it is fixed.
The hardest part of the whole job was getting the trans pan off. The shop that changed the fluid and "tested" the solenoids didn't use a gasket when they put it all back together, they just used a gasket sealant. As a result, I spent nearly half an hour with a thin putty knife separating the pan from the transmission. It left quite a mess.
The culprit was the black lockup solenoid, but I went ahead and replaced all three. The two shift solenoids are identical and the lockup is different, so it was pretty self explanatory.
The new filter screen that came in the kit was totally different from the one that was on the transmission, so I just cleaned and reused the old one. I think that the new screen is for an A340E; the packaging said that the kit could be used in either an A343f or an A340E. If anyone needs an A340E filter, let me know.
The transmission feels like it shifts better, and I haven't had it jump out of lockup yet, so I am hoping that it is fixed.
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Where did you order your solenoids from? I might be in the market for some too, but I first want to get the caps in the ecu sorted.
Also, how did the gasket work out? I saw that a lot of guys use only rtv sealant for this with no gasket.
Also, how did the gasket work out? I saw that a lot of guys use only rtv sealant for this with no gasket.
Also, thanks for posting a good pic of the solenoids. I had trouble finding one earlier.
- Thread starter
- #31
A340E A343F Transmission Master Solenoid Service Kit Toyota Lexus 1996-1999
I ordered the solenoid kit off ebay, it is the same kit that you posted a link to a couple of weeks ago in your thread about your transmission. The gasket and solenoids fit perfectly, only the filter screen was different. I would not recommend using rtv in place of a gasket because it makes the oil pan so much harder to get off next time.
I like the re-use of the altimeter cluster, curious to know is there a hole in the top of the dash big enough to route all the gauge wiring or did you have to drill some new holes?
- Thread starter
- #33
There is a pretty big hole, but it has a rubber boot with all of the wiring going through it to prevent chafing. I pulled the boot out, but left all of the wiring. There is plenty of space, but the wiring needs to be wrapped in electrical tape or something similar, because the edges of the hole are somewhat sharp.
I will be pulling it apart soon to hook up the boost and coolant temp gauges, and will post some more detailed photos then.
- Thread starter
- #34
I tore into my gauge pod today to get the backlight wiring hooked up, so I took a few photos of the face plate. It is made out of 0.063" aluminum. I cut it out with an angle grinder, bent the tabs in a bench vise, cut the holes with a hole saw, and did the fine tune fitting work with a sanding drum on a dremel.
The top edges of each tab had to be ground down to make them thin enough for the clips in the pod to fit over and hold.
One thing to be careful of is where to put which gauge. If it has a pressure line running to it, it can't go in the middle because of the little bracket. I drilled a hole in mine, but it would probably have been better to switch it with the water temperature gauge.
The top edges of each tab had to be ground down to make them thin enough for the clips in the pod to fit over and hold.
One thing to be careful of is where to put which gauge. If it has a pressure line running to it, it can't go in the middle because of the little bracket. I drilled a hole in mine, but it would probably have been better to switch it with the water temperature gauge.
- Thread starter
- #35
I also got to go out and enjoy my Prado last weekend. My brother is now wanting one, too.
- Thread starter
- #36
Did a bit more playing around yesterday evening. The light was good, so we took some photos.
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- #37
I had a small disaster yesterday. A kink in my PCV caused crankcase pressure to build, popping the dipstick out and erupting about a quart of oil all over the back half of the engine bay. I think it is time to fit a catch can. The picture makes it look cleaner than it is. Any tips on cleaning an engine bay?
I usually just pull into the car wash, leave it running, pop the hood and spray it down. Try not to hit any sensitive components too directly. It might help to put some Gunk on it prior to heading over.
GTSSportCoupe
2LTE abuser
Ouch! That sucks...or blew I should say. I've sprayed my 2LTE with water a number of times and never had issues with sensors or anything. If it were me I'd spray a bunch of "super clean" degreaser on it (per instructions on the bottle), let it sit for a little bit, and then spray the whole thing with a garden hose. Then go for a drive so the motor will get hot and dry off. Best not to leave the water sitting for too long.
- Thread starter
- #40
Thanks for the input. I've got some Purple Degreaser that I used on the oil pan and diffs of my FJ62, I'll give that a try. Good to know that a spray down shouldn't hurt anything.
