1989 LJ73 - Getting it Back to Safe and Reliable Condition (1 Viewer)

[skykingisepic]

The Fram PH6357 was a bad cross-reference - too big. Ended up with a Wix 51515. After the oil change, my drain plug is now leaking. The gasket looked OK when I had it out but it it has apparently failed. Do I need to search for the exact drain plug gasket or can I use any standard gasket as long as it fits?

 

[Tennessee Jed]

New gasket every fluid change - trans, engine, diffs, transfer. Call Cruiser Outfitters and they can send you a packet of them. Different ones made of different materials for different applications. They can also send you OEM filters for every application, oil/air/fuel which will be better than any store brand. It's also a good idea to switch over to all new style drain plugs - the ones that take the hexagonal stud. After 30 years the old style gets pretty rounded off.

 

[skykingisepic]

Thanks, ordered from Cruiser Outfitters

 

[skykingisepic]

Just installed new fuel filter (Wix 33138) and replaced incoming rubber fuel line, still requires turning over 5-6 seconds and blows smoke for 10 sec after start then clears up. Primer seemed to be stuck before too, pumps to firm now after cleaning out some nasty brown stuff.

Regarding the front knuckles, manual says remove plug and 'pack' with grease. Do I just remove the grease fitting on the hose of my grease gun and squirt directly in? Without any pressure, not sure how it's going to get down into all the places it needs to be. One knuckle is a bit greasy the other is bone dry so will keep an eye on both after I get some grease in there.

Taking to local shop Monday for fuilds change, I just did the engine oil & filter (Wix 51515)

 

[Rigster]

Just installed new fuel filter (Wix 33138) and replaced incoming rubber fuel line and no more hard start with smoke. Primer seemed to be stuck before too, pumps to firm now after cleaning out some nasty brown stuff.

Regarding the front knuckles, manual says remove plug and 'pack' with grease. Do I just remove the grease fitting on the hose of my grease gun and squirt directly in? Without any pressure, not sure how it's going to get down into all the places it needs to be. One knuckle is a bit greasy the other is bone dry so will keep an eye on both after I get some grease in there.

Taking to local shop Monday for fuilds change, I just did the engine oil & filter (Wix 51515)

Are you just talking about topping them up? As in through the square-headed nut on the knuckle? Or are you rebuilding these?

I am assuming you just mean accessing through the nut. You do not have to take the end off the grease gun. Easiest is to get the front wheels off the ground, you can put some grease in, then take the grease gun OUT, then turn the wheels back and forth to move the grease around. If you leave the head of the grease gun in when you go to turn the wheels back and forth you could potentially snap off the end of your grease gun in the knuckle, but the good news is then you could do a full knuckle rebuild.

The difficult thing here is when rebuilding these knuckles, you are only supposed to fill them to about 3/4 full. It is nearly impossible to tell how much is still in there. I have utilized some sort of "dipstick" to try and see how much grease is in there, then go from there.

 

[skykingisepic]

Wowzer that's a lot of steps using special tools. Any tutorial on just repacking the wheel bearing and maybe replacing the oil gaskets on the knuckle? Several hour long + YT videos but without special tools not sure I'm up for it. Winter project for sure if I do decide to attempt.

 

[Rigster]

Wowzer that's a lot of steps using special tools. Any tutorial on just repacking the wheel bearing and maybe replacing the oil gaskets on the knuckle? Several hour long + YT videos but without special tools not sure I'm up for it. Winter project for sure if I do decide to attempt.

It is a lot of steps, but not too difficult. You can get away with doing these without the specialized tools, but you should have a tool that you can use to properly seat the new bearing races, other than that the only other special tool you need is a big box of paper towels.

If your inner seal is not leaking, I wouldn't bother until you need to do brakes, or the seal starts leaking.

 

[Felde]

To grease the knuckles:
undo that square headed bolt and put a cable tie in as a dipstic.
Put half full of grease. Not full, no pressure! Move the knuckles and use the truck and monitor result.
Check your axle oil! (I saw cases of bone-dry axles, where sellers had removed the oil to hide leaks!)

For knuckle rebuild:
Get a beer and watch this 3x

Best tutorial on knuckle rebuild I know.

If you do it: Do it once and complete.
Bearings, Oilseals, Gaskets, Brass-bearing or roller bearing upgrade. If needed: Brake rotor and front flex brakehoses.
Get a Workshop manual and study the procedures.
Get into the parts diagrams and understand, together with the video, how things fit together.
Get all the parts and you are golden for a long time.
No very special tools required. You need a proper puller to remove the steering joint (don't even try without) and a brass drift for the races, and a puller for the seals. That's it.
Mayhew Pro 25076 1/2 Zoll... Amazon product ASIN B002XMSBBISilverline 282610... https://www.amazon.de/dp/B000WTPJK0?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Kugelgelenk Ausdrücker Werkzeug I 2-Fach Verstellbar bis 55mm I Maulöffnung: 20-22mm I Kugelenk-Abzieher https://amzn.eu/d/61C80ta (check for correct size)
A brass or hard-plastic hammer.
All the rest is usual tools.
Drive out the old races, cut a slit in them and use them to drive in the new seals. (The slit allows them to easily come out again).
Takes you 5h on the first side and 3h on the other, once you know the procedure.
You can do it!
Good Luck Ralf.

 

[skykingisepic]

Rocks side to side just pushing it pretty easily and mashing on each corner of bumpers feels mushy as well. If it's time for new shocks, any recommendations?

 

[skykingisepic]

For knuckle rebuild:
Get a beer and watch this 3x

Don't you mean get 3 beers and watch this once?

 

[Tennessee Jed]

Cruiser Outfitters will set you up with an OME suspension - a safe choice for virtually any application. Many people love and swear by Dobinson's also. Ironman Offroad is a more budget friendly choice but many people have had great success. Some complain about harsh ride quality, but some always do no matter what.

 

[skykingisepic]

Leaning when going around a corner is fun and exciting on my motorcycle. In a 4x4 not so much. Looking for it to be a bit stiffer unless the lean and mushiness is normal for the Cruisers.

 

[Tennessee Jed]

New suspension is a night and day change in the quality of driving. Night and day.

 

[skykingisepic]

Issues still to figure out:

1) 4WD light on dash not coming on when 4H button pushed to 'on', checked bulb and good so might be switch on xfer case. Parts diagram shows three switches, 84222, 84222B and 84222C. Looks like I have the 84222 (larger on side with black & red wires). Is this just a closed circuit when 'on' so I can test for continuity with 4H switch on?

2) Rear of oil pan wet when I got it and slight drip forms at lowest point of tranny. Degreased and dried out to find possible leak. Still getting a drip forming at lowest point but hard to tell if coming from oil pan gasket.

3) Left knuckle is wet - no nothing to figure out - needs a rebuild.

4) Bit of front end wobble (of death) at around 50mph - new tires set at correct pressure didn't help. Will check all front end components for play.

Haven't found anything else that needs to be addressed as far as leaks or things that don't work or appear to be missing. Thankfully it's a short list and hope the leaks and wobble are an easy fix. Could use new shocks and coils - will replace when I have an extra grand to blow.

 

[AirheadNut]

That's correct, as long as the transfer case is physically engaging 4WD then the switch just completes a circuit. Here is a little more info: seeking vacuum transfer case info - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/seeking-vacuum-transfer-case-info.1312666/post-14966752

 

[skykingisepic]

That's correct, as long as the transfer case is physically engaging 4WD then the switch just completes a circuit. Here is a little more info: seeking vacuum transfer case info - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/seeking-vacuum-transfer-case-info.1312666/post-14966752

Great, thanks. Will test for continuity when engaged.

 

[Tennessee Jed]

For me, I had the identical wobble - new OME steering stabilizer fixed it. That plus new wheels and tire rotation/balance and it feels like it's on rails.

 

[skykingisepic]

Decided not to screw around and do things half way. Ordered a new OME suspension (Coils, shocks, steering dampener), 4 new tie rod ends, a knuckle rebuild kit with wheel bearings, and sway bar end bushings and link bushings (all hard and cracked) all from Cruiser Outfitters.

Also wanted to update that the FRP hard top that blew off was found and the seller drove all night from FL to deliver it to TN. Has a nasty crack on right rear and some of the bottom rear corners are ground off but it's standard fiberglass repair work and can be put back to look like nothing happened. Plus it's an opportunity to have it painted a different color outside so going with a medium silver which will match the black nicely. Lucky the windows are unharmed and in working condition.

 

[Felde]

Lucky the windows are unharmed and in working condition.

Great. Yes, that rig is going to be not only nice, but also mechanical solid.
Take a close look on the steel frames and gaskets of the sliding windows. The frames tend to rust and are NLA. The gaskets shrink and break, i.p. at the corners. That stuff can only be repaired by cutting the frame from the FRP top and gluing it back in afterwards.
Best to be done before any paintjob.
Cheers Ralf

 

[skykingisepic]

Great. Yes, that rig is going to be not only nice, but also mechanical solid.
Take a close look on the steel frames and gaskets of the sliding windows. The frames tend to rust and are NLA. The gaskets shrink and break, i.p. at the corners. That stuff can only be repaired by cutting the frame from the FRP top and gluing it back in afterwards.
Best to be done before any paintjob.
Cheers Ralf

Windows, frames, gaskets all in good shape. Lucky me.

Headliner has 34 years of tobacco smoke so decided to peel off the front section. Vinyl came off easy (separated from foam) and left the foam permanently attached with the heavy duty adhesive. Using a putty knife to scrape off then all I'll have to do is place a new piece of headliner material on the left over adhesive and it'll stick forever. Scraping and acetone didn't even budge the adhesive - strong stuff.