1989 LJ73 - Getting it Back to Safe and Reliable Condition (1 Viewer)

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Yea, I have kind of the same issue and the same plan. However I have issues in sourcing suitable headliner material.
Have been looking for over a year now and ordered several samples, but nothing really fits.
I want a perforated material (like the original) to allow for circulation, but I can't get anything padded. I'm concerned the glue may seap trough the perforation. And usually the holes are also too big and too wide apart. Not sure how to handle this. Well, a headliner is not urgent, though.
Cheers Ralf
 
I have an indicator light left of steering wheel where top half is the emergency flashers. Does anyone know what the bottom half is for? Not explained in Owner's Manual. Or is it only emer flash that uses two bulbs and the lower is out?
 
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I only know the one fairly big hazard red indicator in that place. Don't think it has two bulbs, though, but actually don't know.
There also might be configurations I don't know.
Any symbols on the area in question?
A pic would help.
Cheers Ralf
 
The lens is one big haz warn symbol, makes me think one of two bulbs out. Parts diagram shows two bulbs for the indicator.
 
Just started the suspension upgrade. Removed the front shocks (or should I say useless reciprocating tubes) and they were completely shot - no resistance pushing or pulling. Installed the two OME NitroSports and the difference is amazing! Firm front end, and I haven't even done the coil springs yet, and already eliminated half of the side to side rock the boat action. Will wait to do the rears when I do the coil springs as it looks like I need to remove the shocks to make it easier to get the springs out anyway. Replaced all 8 of the sway bar end and stem bushings. When I get done I expect the wobble it had when I first drove it to be history.
 
Just got the FRP Top back on. Need to go buy all of the bolts required and make new L bracket for rear corners. Lots of fiberglass repair work needed - top right corner has major cracks and and a complete break halfway down to the bottom of the corner. Amazingly, side and rear door windows are all OK.

When it blew off, it damaged the top door latch before it ripped off and there are no replacements available. Actually cracked the metal before it separated. Maybe I can repair. Both rear door window frames are bent back and there is a 1" gap and don't line up properly (overlap vertically) so I need to do major rebending to get things lined up properly again. UPDATE: after a couple hours of effort, I got the door window frames bent back into position and the top latch bent back as well. Doors now close with window frames making contact with the top. Not perfect, but functional.

I certainly didn't expect to be spending many days repairing damage when I bought this :(

Takes time away from doing upgrades - in the middle of replacing springs and shocks

And I seem to have air in the fuel line as it starts hard (5 seconds to crank) and idles rough for 15 seconds blowing smoke. Replaced the filter/primer assembly didn't fix.
 
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Suspension upgrade done. OME coil springs, shocks, and steering dampener all installed.

Springs required a bit of compression and a few choice words of encouragement to get in. Front were actually easier than rears.

Next is to finish getting the Rough Country 9500 winch installed using a trimmed down Badland mounting plate

Still waiting for my Wit's End Oil Seal Offset Driver so I can rebuild the Knuckles

Then will finish grinding the cracks on the broken FRP Top and re-epoxy (when it's warm enough) and off to get painted

Still trying to figure out why it starts hard. Watched a half dozen YT videos of the 2LT and they all start instantly - like one second where mine takes 4-5. I put accelerator to floor while cranking then let off when it starts and it idles smoothly with just a small puff of smoke.

I'll do a compression check when kit arrives just so I can rule that out as a reason for hard starts.

Bit by bit I'll have this little beastie back to start and go condition.
 
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Great to have another LJ73 near by, I'm in Knoxville.
How is your driving experience with the 2LT?

Still trying to figure out why it starts hard. Watched a half dozen YT videos of the 2LT and they all start instantly - like one second where mine takes 4-5. I put accelerator to floor while cranking then let off when it starts and it idles smoothly with just a small puff of smoke.
Assuming that you change the glowplugs for your starting problems. Sometimes I also use starting fluid spray, when it's too cold, spray a little in the air intake or directly to the turbo.
You could check the injectors one by one. While running open a little bit the fuel line on top and check how the fuel comes out, it should come out the same in all 4. Also you could take the injectors out and clean them.
 
Still waiting for my Wit's End Oil Seal Offset Driver so I can rebuild the Knuckles
You should check the Bad seller section in the classifieds !!
Then contact your credit card company before it too late !!

I always use a proper sized socket to drive my seals (Old School) !!
 
Cancelled my Wit's End order so no offset oil seal driver. Might figure out how to get a large washer same diameter as seal to stick to the driver that's 2mm thick and make my own offset.

I keep getting a bit of oil drip at the lowest point of engine after I drive it - tranny interface so there's a slight leak somewhere. Engine is pretty clean but will degrease some wet areas in the back and the rear of the oil pan gasket to see if I get a new wet spot.
 
Finished work on the LJ73. Repaired the fiberglass top and painted it platinum gray metallic on outside and just solid gray with new headliner inside. Installed a Murphy Switch and starts instantly now and idles smooth no smoke. Slight weepy leak rear of engine either valve cover gasket or oil pan (or both) but so small just going to put cardboard under it to catch drips.

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