tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
Have you checked your fuel pressure?
1988 FJ 62 ECU control module symptoms (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Ocean15
- Start date
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Only failures I have experienced causing the engine to not run are the rotted distributor internals from not having the vent tube to the intake hooked up and the circuit opening relay. When the COR goes it's like running out of gas since you loose the fuel pump. If you are getting a CEL when the ignition switch is in run the ecu isn't dead but does not rule out intermittent stuff. Also check your grounds to the engine and the injector harness ground to the engine. Did the ecu throw any codes?
- Thread starter
- #24
Thanks everyone for the replies,
I'm currently out of town on business so I haven't had a chance to get into the issue anymore. My mechanic doesn't want to put in a ECM because if it isn't the problem he can't return it. I'll be back this weekend and do some more intensive trouble shooting. I'll post what I find.
I'm currently out of town on business so I haven't had a chance to get into the issue anymore. My mechanic doesn't want to put in a ECM because if it isn't the problem he can't return it. I'll be back this weekend and do some more intensive trouble shooting. I'll post what I find.
- Thread starter
- #25
Thank you for reply.
It will start but the CEL goes out. As soon as I get over 1000 rpm it stalls out. Unfortunately I don't have a code reader so I can't answer that right now. I'm going to check the harness as soon as I get back. My gut says it's something that came undone when I did the oil and dropped the trans pan to clean the filter. It was running fine before.
- Thread starter
- #26
I have not done that yet. The fuel pump is only 2 years old and I'm going to be really disappointed if I have to drop the tank again (especially since the tank is currently full).
you don't need a code reader, this is a simple system by todays standard. I don't know it from memory but the basics are below.
there are write ups here on how to read the codes.
you just 2 terminals in the diagnostic port under the hood and turn the key on and watch for the flashing light.
If the CEL goes out after the engine is started, that is normal but there can still be codes stored. The CEL will go out if the malfunction is cleared but the code stays in memory until cancelled. This can happen if the problem is intermittent. Codes are cancelled by disconnecting the EFI fuse. I attached the part of the 3fe manual that shows how to retrieve the codes and what they mean. The only thing I see associated with 1000 rpm is #13.
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
I would check it and rule it out...at least there is a drain on the tank
Last time you installed a fuel pump, was it OEM or aftermarket? And, did you reuse the old small piece of fuel hose or did you replace it?
The little hose in the tank can go bad and leak fuel before it gets pumped up to the motor.
The little hose in the tank can go bad and leak fuel before it gets pumped up to the motor.
- Thread starter
- #33
Update: You guys have been great with the replies and troubleshoot ideas which I should have done but due to a busy work schedule I left the truck with a trusted local mechanic and he still has not figured out the problem yet. I've bought a second hand ECM off Ebay and Ignition Control Module (still attached to the coil) from CruiserParts and still no luck in getting it to stay running. I assumed they checked the fuel pressure but I guess not so I'm waiting to hear back.
I'm probably going to have it towed home later today or tomorrow and work on it myself or have it taken to another shop.
I'm probably going to have it towed home later today or tomorrow and work on it myself or have it taken to another shop.
RodrigzCrzr
SILVER Star
Have you checked TPS? Cleaned out your Mas air flow sensor! And throttle body!
I had similar issues with my last FJ62.
And cleaned and replaced the tps. Worked great after
I had similar issues with my last FJ62.
And cleaned and replaced the tps. Worked great after
Check the tube between throttle body and AFM... loose connections or cracks will cause a vacuum leak before the engines sometimes hard to detect, and can cause random stalling under load (engine shifts, filter doesn't, tube leaks air, AFM closes and turns fuel pump off).
Dunbar
SILVER Star
Engine not starting when warm but starting when cold is classic Fuel Pressure Regulator. Yooper ID'ed this problem years ago. Check his list of symptoms and work done to fix it before he found the FPR problem. I had to replace mine once thus far, would not re-start when warm but started cold. Your problem of dying might be FPR and another issue like gummed up intake or TPS needing adjustment or replacement. I would get a FPR because if it doesn't fix the problem, you will have it in the glove box for when yours finally fails. Actually put the old one in the glove.
I know someone has suggested pulling codes...
I will second the suggestion, and also agree with everyone who offered that any of the coolant sensor, tps, cor, fpr, dizzy signal circuits could also be cause. Bad connections at terminals are highly likely, followed by tps falling out of calibration... for s***s and grins, you might also try swapping tank and purge hoes on charcoal can for good measure.
These are simple controls; just have to go thru the motions to find the problem. Not something I would trust a younger mechanic to get without cash sting too much labor time...
I will second the suggestion, and also agree with everyone who offered that any of the coolant sensor, tps, cor, fpr, dizzy signal circuits could also be cause. Bad connections at terminals are highly likely, followed by tps falling out of calibration... for s***s and grins, you might also try swapping tank and purge hoes on charcoal can for good measure.
These are simple controls; just have to go thru the motions to find the problem. Not something I would trust a younger mechanic to get without cash sting too much labor time...
As far as TPS put of calibration, unless someone knows specifically otherwise for the FJ62....
Other toyotas of this vintage with similar EFI setups - simply unplug the TPS. Yes, you will get a code, but since it wont get any signal it will run (mostly) normally.
If the TPS is way out, or failed - then when you hit the gas the ecu sees the AFM open but not the TPS- and there is an idle circuit on the POT style TPS sensors.... so performance wise they fall flat on their face.
With the TPS disconnected it knows theres a problem and ignores the TPS....
Other toyotas of this vintage with similar EFI setups - simply unplug the TPS. Yes, you will get a code, but since it wont get any signal it will run (mostly) normally.
If the TPS is way out, or failed - then when you hit the gas the ecu sees the AFM open but not the TPS- and there is an idle circuit on the POT style TPS sensors.... so performance wise they fall flat on their face.
With the TPS disconnected it knows theres a problem and ignores the TPS....
- Thread starter
- #39
Friday update:
I just stopped by the shop and the mechanic says there isn't any spark which is leading to possible issue with the distributer? He's going to pull it out and take a look later today. Hoping we have narrowed down the problem.
I just stopped by the shop and the mechanic says there isn't any spark which is leading to possible issue with the distributer? He's going to pull it out and take a look later today. Hoping we have narrowed down the problem.
red66toy
Supporting Vendor
The pickup coils in my FJ62 dizzy recently went bad and caused a no-spark symptom. Tripped the check engine light as well. Replaced the coils from another dizzy and it fired right up.
