Builds 1988 BJ74 “Number 1” (5 Viewers)

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Retrofit? There were no BJ70s with factory-fitted 13BT powerplants.

If it was an SWB, it would be a BJ71. If BJ74, it would be RHD-only.
Was a swap, the 70 Sheldon in BC had. Had cable lockers front and rear and suspension seats
 
so my heater valve has been goofy for the last few weeks. So upon messing with it, appears that it’s stuck. I’ve unhooked the actual cable from controls and it only moves a little.

Always great to have the heater stuck on in 102F weather. The good news is I always have the top/sides off so it doesn’t really get hot. More worried about it leaking.

Partsouq shows 87240-90K01 which apparently is NLA.

However some searching found some posts of people using 87240-60110 which is slightly different.

Photos from @OGBeno

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It should be the one on the right, but mine doesn’t have the extended pipe so maybe it’s an older or different version?

Other way it appears the newer version might work out alright. Are people using that one with success?



And the pup giving me the side eye.


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@FJBen I feel for you. The linkage for the heater control in my Tercel is broken and it’s stuck on max heat. Glad you found a workaround!
 
@FJBen I feel for you. The linkage for the heater control in my Tercel is broken and it’s stuck on max heat. Glad you found a workaround!

Yeah if I didn’t have the top to take off I would be miserable. No way to shut mine off at all right now.

I might be more inclined to fix my ac if I had to drive a lot in it.
 
Still not overly happy about vague temps on the BJ74. Now I don’t have an overheating issue, but I would like to actually know what the engine is doing.


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Not my favorite setup, but I got this to run in the radiator hose.



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I’m thinking close as possible to the thermostat housing would read the hottest temps. Any thoughts on that?


Also this has been sitting quite awhile apparently right down the corner from me. Very tempting to go door knocking and ask about the old corn binder….because who doesn’t need another project? This one is pretty solid for a scout. More rust on the other side.

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Perhaps just hang this near the radiator and listen for that faint popping sound. 😊
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Still not overly happy about vague temps on the BJ74. Now I don’t have an overheating issue, but I would like to actually know what the engine is doing.


View attachment 3949273

Not my favorite setup, but I got this to run in the radiator hose.



View attachment 3949272

I’m thinking close as possible to the thermostat housing would read the hottest temps. Any thoughts on that?


Also this has been sitting quite awhile apparently right down the corner from me. Very tempting to go door knocking and ask about the old corn binder….because who doesn’t need another project? This one is pretty solid for a scout. More rust on the other side.

View attachment 3949276
If it comes with the canoe, grab it! Is that rust or PATINA 🤣? Scouts are cool, I spent a lot of cold, teenage hours in a buddies hunting out of one.

On the rad hose temperature piece- I’ve used one for 3-4 years without any issues and it is nice to know what the temps actually are. Throw away the hose clamps that came with it and use good quality or OEM ones. Your location is a sound choice.
 
Still not overly happy about vague temps on the BJ74. Now I don’t have an overheating issue, but I would like to actually know what the engine is doing.


View attachment 3949273

Not my favorite setup, but I got this to run in the radiator hose.



View attachment 3949272

I’m thinking close as possible to the thermostat housing would read the hottest temps. Any thoughts on that?


Also this has been sitting quite awhile apparently right down the corner from me. Very tempting to go door knocking and ask about the old corn binder….because who doesn’t need another project? This one is pretty solid for a scout. More rust on the other side.

View attachment 3949276
At least you have a nice straight section of hose to splice the adapter into.

Found that the temps (1HZ) are reading about 8-10* warmer for me now. I was running the sensor in the top hose (adapter like yours and Auber) vs now in the top tank of radiator (Terrain Tamer low coolant port and Auber).
 
If it comes with the canoe, grab it! Is that rust or PATINA 🤣? Scouts are cool, I spent a lot of cold, teenage hours in a buddies hunting out of one.

On the rad hose temperature piece- I’ve used one for 3-4 years without any issues and it is nice to know what the temps actually are. Throw away the hose clamps that came with it and use good quality or OEM ones. Your location is a sound choice.

Good information. I’ve seen a lot of people seem to recommend and use, but I’ve never heard the longtime report of them.
Those clamps do look pretty chintzy.

yeah I’ve always liked the scouts, but they definitely have their own issues for sure. It would have to be a steal of a deal for me to consider.


At least you have a nice straight section of hose to splice the adapter into.

Found that the temps (1HZ) are reading about 8-10* warmer for me now. I was running the sensor in the top hose (adapter like yours and Auber) vs now in the top tank of radiator (Terrain Tamer low coolant port and Auber).

That’s interesting it would be 8-10 hotter. There is Probabaly a scientific explanation on why it would be warmer in the top radiator tank vs aluminum insert setup.

As long as it’s pretty close to accurate of the coolant temps, I’ll at least have some peace of mind.
 
Some useful heater hoses from Toyota:

99556-30500 is a 500 mm bulk length. You can get less or more by specifying the length you want in the last four digits of the part number.

87245-14500 is a 90 degree bend with about 100 mm of straight section either end.

87245-6A180 is a short hose with a 45 degree bend.

87251-35020 is a short straight aluminium bead-rolled pipe to join two hoses.
 
@Eurasiaoverland is posting up some great tech.

Meanwhile I’m posting the equivalent of:
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I finally have all the parts to add in the temp gauge so I’ll Probabaly attempt that this weekend.

Lunch stop next to this rig:

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It’s legit.

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I will say curiosity got the best of me and I wanted to see the cost. They are all custom built per order and the cheapest plain version starts at $7,400….they pretty much just shells that pop up and have a pullout bed.

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I bet they would make one for a 73/74 if one were so inclined.
 
Some useful heater hoses from Toyota:

99556-30500 is a 500 mm bulk length. You can get less or more by specifying the length you want in the last four digits of the part number.

87245-14500 is a 90 degree bend with about 100 mm of straight section either end.

87245-6A180 is a short hose with a 45 degree bend.

87251-35020 is a short straight aluminium bead-rolled pipe to join two hoses.
What's the inner diameter of the hoses? 12mm?
 
What's the inner diameter of the hoses? 12mm?
These are the standard Land Cruiser heater hoses for the front heater, with an ID of about 16 mm. The pipe sections (e.g. the pipes on the 60 Series heater valve which is mounted on the front bulkhead) have an OD of 17 mm.
 
Finally added in the temp sender in the radiator hose and went for a test. Only got about 45 drive in it so not a real big heat sink.

93F today, running down the interstate at 65mph.
2350rpms
EGT 769
12psi

188 degree water temp.


I still have the one on the thermostat bolt but it’s unhooked. I should be able to hook both up and see what the temp diff is in the coolant vs thermostat housing. I feel like it was about 8-10f off.




Bonus sprinter spotting 😂
 
So about that beach day…103F. It was warm!

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On the way back I noticed my coolant temp rise a little. To be fair, it was 103F, windy gusts over 20mph (headwinds) 3 people in the rig and a big paddle board pushing wind.

I was running about 62ish mph.
EGT: 820ish
Temp on Auber: 182 climbing to 187
Factory guage: slightly above the bottom quarter or always sets at.

My Auber gauge is a ring sensor that’s on a thermostat bolt. It isn’t an actual coolant temp, but it should be “close” to coolant temp and does give engine metal temp without worry of false readings of no coolant present.
The bad part is I have no baseline really to say this is the actual temp my water is at.

Normally on a 80f day, normal driving it can sit 160-170f. I have seen 180s before.

no coolant bubbled or boiled over, levels normal so maybe it’s normal operation in that situation.

I’ve never had a cooling issue with this cruiser, and I don’t think I have one but it would be really nice to know actual temps on days like this.

There’s a few ways to do that, this might be the easiest. Hook it up in the upper radiator hose with a sender and hook it up to my Auber gauge.

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The good thing is I can actually run both temps at the same time to see what the difference is.

I hate cutting a radiator hose but a ton of people use these without issue.
Love this! How’s the top with the surfboard?
 

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