Builds 1988 BJ74 “Number 1” (7 Viewers)

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Went to dmv…that was a pain. Dealer that did VIN inspection messed up and I had to go to sherrifs office for another VIN inspection.

The lady was pretty confused looking at title and she said a 2 door Land Cruiser? They have those?

Ah I swear.

Anyway all good, back to dmv tried for custom plates. GDAYM8 or GDAY M8 was in use. Got my boring plates and left.


Looked up online to see what’s available and a site said GDAYM8 belongs too….
A 2016 Subaru Outback. :mad:
GDAY 2017 Ram 2500 OK…
CRIKEY 2015 Land Rover Evoque…really?
COBBER 2017 Lexus RX
C*NT - apparently vulgar and not approved outside Australia
DWNUNDR - 2009 Pontiac G8 cmon man!
STRAYA - 2022 Kia telluride …
AUSSIE - 2018 Honda accord , you better be Australian and not just have a dumb dog
OZ - 2012 gmc canyon too much wizard for me
OUTBACK- 2012 Subaru Outback - screw you subaru



So back to the drawing board on plate names.
"C*NT - apparently vulgar and not approved outside Australia"

The Seaward ! Great boat name.
 
Transmission out.


It’s a mess.

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Yeah that’s saturated
I don’t think any amount of boiling is going to fix that. One last call (for the day to cruiser outfitters) :rofl: Confirmed they still hadn’t got one yet. I think it’s time for the @bjowett
Route.


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Some scraping to do and cleanup.


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More working. It’s been near 100 degrees, and there is no AC in my shop. It’s toasty.

Lots of cleanup. Feels like a knuckle job…grease grease grease.

The old clutch had plenty of material left, so nothing is “worn” so to say.
Flywheel looks pretty good. No real burn marks, it’s not perfect but it should be good to go. That combined with a non-worn clutch makes me feel alright about using it again. I need to clean it off real good.

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Got the seal in. The old seal came out very pretty easily, almost by hand. It appeared fine, but it definitely was much easier to get on compared to the seal on the input shaft.


Mostly cleaned up. Still need to clean some more.

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Also slightly snuggled up the rear diff and staked the nut again. Feels good, still more slop than the front end but the flange slack is gone.



Also picked up one of these. I figured it was the quickest way to get mine back and going.
The rear had a slow leak and the front blue line had snapped before and I looked the other day and it was snapped again.

Ammo complaining? No, these are really old arbs and line/compressor so they have held up fantastic format least 20 years if not more.

I’m going to replace a small section of the front and rear lines and should be back in action.

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Looks great Ben!!!
 
Looks great Ben!!!

It’s getting there, however I may have hit a snag….


The clutch disk was showing as to be delivered today, mail already showed up.

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I’m about an hour north of Denver. It’s been there 2 days and is now “moving through network” In the past when I’ve called after days of waiting the conversation is short with usps.

Me: hey I’m missing package xyz, should have been delivered last week. Do you know where it is?

Post office:
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Meanwhile back at the post office:



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Well waiting again. Hopefully it won’t take long.

Picked up some of this as well for the h55f. 5 quarts. If I end up having to rebuild with a decent used B series input shaft I’ll probably switch to redline mt-90. At this long I’ve been changing it every 1.5 years so …

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Guess I can stop complaining about the postal service.

Bjowett hooked me up with the clutch disk.

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This one even has a Toyota Logo on it :)

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Clutch number 31250-60383 is for a 1kd or 1GD powered 150 Prado.

Base 1GD-FTV numbers - 180hp, 331tq

So it should be plenty for a stock 13bt at 120hp 210tq….in theory an upgrade. Of course I’m running more boost, bigger tires and a little more fuel so I don’t really know what hp/tq numbers I’m at.







Here it is by the dtx-169 clutch.
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It would absolutely fit, but the big difference is that the 169 is for an FJCruiser 4.0L v6.
 
Feel free to skip the techy stuff in this post. If you get bored, skip to the end. I’ve attached a gif of a rabbit taking a bath in the sink that is far more entertaining.



This is pretty common knowledge but maybe will help someone understand a little more about clutches.
There is a lot of maths and engineering going into a clutch. This is a really high level thing im going over and not a deep dive in physics and engineering.

Why won’t that exact size gas clutch rated for more power not work in my diesel?
Engines, combustion that is, have variance in how power/torque is delivered. That’s due to combustion intake/exhaust stroke on a 4 stroke gas/diesel engine. The power stroke or pulse happens on fuel detonation and moving the piston down. Since it’s not firing all the time you have a variance in the force (thanks yoda) while other pistons are firing. That variance or pulse is know as a torque pulse or impulse. How does is feel? Smoother delivery or less depending on engine/cylinders.

Here’s some charts explaining some.

This is the power/torque pulses from 3 different engines. I4, V6, V8 for 1 rotation of the crankshaft. This is just high level to understand the lumpy/variance/vibrations that occur between the engine types.



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So we see that 4cyl has the biggest variance and vibrational issues inherently. (Not counting vibration dampers, counterweights between engines) Looking at you 4BT. A 3.9L 4bt and a 4.0L grz are similar in displacement, but big differences as we all know, the main being a diesel vs gas, 4cyl vs 6 like the charts show.

Let’s look at a clutch disk. Has friction material on the outside, a splined hub and springs. The hub is free to slightly rotate to handle and get rid of noise vibrations and harshness (nvh) that come from you guessed it, the engine, specifically the crank and all those lovely torque pulses.

You can imagine there is a lot of different clutch’s to handle all the different torque pulses and NVH from each engine. Some overlap, some might work, some definitely won’t work even though the power specs and size is the same.


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Take @AirheadNut clutch for example. He has an LJ78 with a tiny 1.9L VW diesel engine in it ( I’m not size shaming 😂) and used a 4Runner 5vz performance clutch 3.4L V6 and that VW tore it up. Diesels are torque monsters, and I4s are noisy, NVH speaking.

All that hub rotation, springs, damping has been figured out by smart physics people on what should hold up taking into account this whole meaningless post of NVH, torque pulse etc. there is a lot of cool stuff they are doing with regards to this that I just didn’t want to go down that big rabbit hole.


All that to say I seriously doubt the dtx-169 V6 clutch would hold up very long. The Prado clutch in theory should hold up as it’s been designed to handle diesel torque pulses and NVH all with higher torque and hp. My only concern is the 1GD is a common rail, newer and smoother overall.



As promised:

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All back together. Double checked all bolts. Not so fun fact I forgot to mention. I was missing 2 bellhousing bolts and 2 weren’t very tight. Part of me wonders if that was enough to flex or not…

Anyway replaced the bolts and torqued everything down. I plan on checking them periodically.

Tried to start and nothing. I have power, power to starter, checked everything. Pulled the ground off the starter.


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Well that’s not good. Ran into town and they made a new ground. No it’s not OEM but for $8.00 it’s worth a shot.

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Put it on and nada. Same thing. Start poking around and finally find the trigger wire to the starter came unconnected. :cautious: Plugged in and we started right up.


Took a test drive to break in the clutch. I found a lot of different opinions on how to do it. I found this many times, 300-500 city miles/stop and go. Lots of stop and go, get the heat up then let it cool off.

I will say the clutch feels great. Much more enjoyable to drive. A little more time and miles will tell if this clutch disc is a good option.

On the first drive no gear oil leak so im hoping this fixes it again for quite awhile.

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All back together. Double checked all bolts. Not so fun fact I forgot to mention. I was missing 2 bellhousing bolts and 2 weren’t very tight. Part of me wonders if that was enough to flex or not…

Anyway replaced the bolts and torqued everything down. I plan on checking them periodically.

Tried to start and nothing. I have power, power to starter, checked everything. Pulled the ground off the starter.


View attachment 3384631

Well that’s not good. Ran into town and they made a new ground. No it’s not OEM but for $8.00 it’s worth a shot.

View attachment 3384633

Put it on and nada. Same thing. Start poking around and finally find the trigger wire to the starter came unconnected. :cautious: Plugged in and we started right up.


Took a test drive to break in the clutch. I found a lot of different opinions on how to do it. I found this many times, 300-500 city miles/stop and go. Lots of stop and go, get the heat up then let it cool off.

I will say the clutch feels great. Much more enjoyable to drive. A little more time and miles will tell if this clutch disc is a good option.

On the first drive no gear oil leak so im hoping this fixes it again for quite awhile.

View attachment 3384632
It's a good feeling when you go into a job, fix some deficiencies, find some more to fix while your in there and fix it good. Nice work, and I am sure you are glad to get it done, awesome there are no leaks, and I hope it stays that way for a very long time! :bounce:

Now you have me wanting to go and check all my housing bolts on my rig since I did the clutch in the spring! I think I will do that this weekend, as I will be leaving next Thursday, and will be putting around 1200km on the rig and doing some 4 wheel work to get into where I like to before hiking in. Always a good idea to give everything a once over.... :cheers:
 
Well. That’s a fail.


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Much worse than it was. So that seal either sucked or something else is going on.

I’m tired of pulling this basically yearly at this point so I suppose it’s time for a different input shaft and full rebuild.

Had to cancel solid axle summit 7 which I’m pretty bummed about.


No real other options…it will have to sit for awhile while other projects get done. It’s not driveable at this point.
 
You can take mine if you want!
That would be epic but my nerves would be shot the whole time worried about every noise and rock chip lol. The way my luck is lately…




I had some time to think about it, took my daughter to the airport at 4:30am then came back to look under it again.



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That’s a lot of oil. Everytime before it wouldn’t leak if the truck didn’t move. Doesn’t Make sense if it’s the output shaft seal, unless it completely tore. That was at 8:00am.



This is right now at 9:30 after I moved the boards around. It’s parked in my hay shed while I’m redoing the brakes on the jetta tosay.

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So she’s definitely leaking a bunch just sitting there. My thoughts are this. Drink a bunch of beer to get the nerves up to pull that b@stard again and check my suspicion.

A: I didn’t put loctite 518 on both sides of the gasket and it’s leaking. I did put a thread sealant on the bolts…I put it on last time so I’m not sure why I just relied on the gasket this time. I was reading through the rebuild h55f and split case tech thread and saw @orangefj45 post about him using it on both sides of every gasket. I remember that’s why I did it last time. It was a pain to get off.

B: that seal was too tight and gave up quickly. However I’d be surprised that it leaks just sitting.



So some renewed interest in pulling it again this weekend and see where it’s leaking. If it’s just the bearing retainer like I’m hoping, then should be an easy fix. Put the sealant on both sides of the gasket and slap it back it.

If not, grab another seal slap it in, hope it doesn’t leak and gather parts for the rebuild as soon as I can.
 
That would be epic but my nerves would be shot the whole time worried about every noise and rock chip lol. The way my luck is lately…




I had some time to think about it, took my daughter to the airport at 4:30am then came back to look under it again.



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That’s a lot of oil. Everytime before it wouldn’t leak if the truck didn’t move. Doesn’t Make sense if it’s the output shaft seal, unless it completely tore. That was at 8:00am.



This is right now at 9:30 after I moved the boards around. It’s parked in my hay shed while I’m redoing the brakes on the jetta tosay.

View attachment 3385580


So she’s definitely leaking a bunch just sitting there. My thoughts are this. Drink a bunch of beer to get the nerves up to pull that b@stard again and check my suspicion.

A: I didn’t put loctite 518 on both sides of the gasket and it’s leaking. I did put a thread sealant on the bolts…I put it on last time so I’m not sure why I just relied on the gasket this time. I was reading through the rebuild h55f and split case tech thread and saw @orangefj45 post about him using it on both sides of every gasket. I remember that’s why I did it last time. It was a pain to get off.

B: that seal was too tight and gave up quickly. However I’d be surprised that it leaks just sitting.



So some renewed interest in pulling it again this weekend and see where it’s leaking. If it’s just the bearing retainer like I’m hoping, then should be an easy fix. Put the sealant on both sides of the gasket and slap it back it.

If not, grab another seal slap it in, hope it doesn’t leak and gather parts for the rebuild as soon as I can.
If it is leaking on the input shaft seal you might find that when the oil level drops a bit it will stop leaking and you will still have enough oil. Alot of gear cases on equipment are like that. Top them off and they leak around the shaft seals until it drops below that level and then they just leak a little when running. Really I think every gear case on every old machine I've ever topped of did that(with the exception of motorcycles) and I've never had any gearcase fail for lack of oil. I also live on a dirt road and have a gravel driveway and would park on the street and not a friends white concrete driveway if I knew I had a leak. I think when big heavy gearcases and shafts are dissassembled/reassembled in less than optimum conditions the mating surfaces often get scratched and nicked which tends to create a higher probability for leaks and if damaged enough it simply will always leak a little. I hope either you fix your leak, or find it's not as bad as you thought.
 
If it is leaking on the input shaft seal you might find that when the oil level drops a bit it will stop leaking and you will still have enough oil. Alot of gear cases on equipment are like that. Top them off and they leak around the shaft seals until it drops below that level and then they just leak a little when running. Really I think every gear case on every old machine I've ever topped of did that(with the exception of motorcycles) and I've never had any gearcase fail for lack of oil. I also live on a dirt road and have a gravel driveway and would park on the street and not a friends white concrete driveway if I knew I had a leak. I think when big heavy gearcases and shafts are dissassembled/reassembled in less than optimum conditions the mating surfaces often get scratched and nicked which tends to create a higher probability for leaks and if damaged enough it simply will always leak a little. I hope either you fix your leak, or find it's not as bad as you thought.

Winner winner Chechen dinner. (I was putting chicken dinner but it auto corrected to Chechen so I’m staying with it)

Tilted slightly forward and out comes the oil. Pulling it apart to see if the seal failed or what’s going on.


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Well ran Into town as a local bearing and hose company had one in stock. That’s a shocker.
This seal fit better and easier on the input shaft. Hope it holds up better.

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Lining up the clutch was a pain. The tranny jack works OK at best and it kept slipping and rotating out…


First test drive went fine and uneventful, just like it needed to be. Did a short trip, did some errands, lots of shifting then let her cool off.


This “retro 4Runner” had no zero interest in the OG Land Cruiser.

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Made it home just before a huge thunderstorm knocked out power a couple times.

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First trip, no leak. Not calling it until I get a few trips down.
 

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