- Thread starter
- #41
I’m using mountain high performance in Arvada.
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1985 2f engine pull and replacement thread (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Chad717
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I’m using mountain high performance in Arvada.
- Thread starter
- #42
This thread must have started something, because the builder just told me that the engine is finished. I’m away for Vacation for a few weeks, but I’m sure I will have plenty of questions once I pick it up!
See if they can email you the parts they used and what they had to do.
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- #44
They did email me everything they did on the receipt, did you want to see it? It is a lot, I’ll see if I can copy and paste.
Yes. Just curious what was done and what costs were. It’s good to see what different procedures cost and labor etc.
- Thread starter
- #46
Engine is home!
Oohhhh my precious.
\
Did you go with OEM components or did you use ITM pistons etc?
Keep up the good work! I'm rebuilding my top end and picking up the rebuilt head today! Can't wait to get my project going again... I labeled everything, but it was over a month ago, hopefully I too can remember where everything goes.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
Ehhh... it’s no sweat... especially after the second go round.
- Thread starter
- #51
I’m not sure the brand of Pistons, they had to bore the block .020” and then they put in new pistons to fit. I’ll have to look into the paperwork when I get home. I know for the head we agreed to use the Chevy valves so they resized all the valve guides etc.... I’m pretty sure the pistons and cam etc are not oem. It was last year when we sat down and detailed the plan for the build so I’m a little fuzzy without looking at the paperwork.
- Thread starter
- #53
So I'm just got a new Aisin water pump in the mail and I was gonna start putting stuff together. Sounds like a little bit of silicone sealant on each side of the gasket for the water pump is a good idea.
The engine also had headers on it, the ones that are egr compatible. Like this.
The machine shop used an ITM gasket set in reassembly and this is the manifold gasket I got with it.
It is a pretty serious gasket, I was just gonna install it dry, but it seems there are many who use copper gasket sealer. I was leaning this direction because I don't know the torque specs for this particular gasket, so I was just gonna use the FSM torque specs, I figured the copper gasket sealer could only help. Thoughts if you have time?
The engine also had headers on it, the ones that are egr compatible. Like this.
The machine shop used an ITM gasket set in reassembly and this is the manifold gasket I got with it.
It is a pretty serious gasket, I was just gonna install it dry, but it seems there are many who use copper gasket sealer. I was leaning this direction because I don't know the torque specs for this particular gasket, so I was just gonna use the FSM torque specs, I figured the copper gasket sealer could only help. Thoughts if you have time?
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
That’s either the Toyota gasket or the Felpro. Just use the specs in the fsm. You can definitely use copper on both sides if you chose. Did the machine shop plane the manifolds?
And wow, is that your engine? Work of art!
And wow, is that your engine? Work of art!
- Thread starter
- #55
oh no that is not mine!!! that is just a pic I found while browsing the forum for header install tips. That is my header exactly, although mine is much dirtier! Thanks for the other info @NeverGiveUpYota
Gretsch
SILVER Star
That's how I did mine. Thin coat on both sides of gasket. Would get a Toyota gasket too. The one in the Aisin box is not as good as the Toyota OEM from what I have read. HTH.
- Thread starter
- #57
Slowly making progress and I'm getting more excited about getting the engine back into the truck. Manifold and headers installed along with the EGR system. Ugh I wish I could desmog. I used the copper gasket sealer and I made a little bit of a mess as you can see from the photos, it was hard holding everything straight by myself and bolting all 3 pieces on. Fingers crossed for no leaks! New water pump bolted on and I got new radiator hoses as well. Clutch kit is ordered and I just cleaned and painted the bell housing.
Its also nice to have helpers in the garage. This is my daughter helping me unbolt the thermostat housing. We are working on the appropriate shop clothing thing.
Its also nice to have helpers in the garage. This is my daughter helping me unbolt the thermostat housing. We are working on the appropriate shop clothing thing.
batthewmrown
SILVER Star
What? Flats aren't OSHA approved footwear?!?
- Thread starter
- #59
Coming right along, slowly. Air rail cleaned, painted and installed. Thermostat housing cleaned, painted and installed with a new thermostat inside. It was interesting, the thermostat I received was a different shape than the old one, although it still fit in the housing. It came with a rubber gasket for the top of the thermostat, and it doesn't really fit the top of the thermostat. I mean it fits, but it just sits there and slides around, it doesn't have a specific spot for it like the old thermostat. I just put it on top and carefully placed the top of the thermostat housing on top and snugged down the bolts. Hope it works!
Couple questions that have come to mind while I'm putting stuff back together:
1. My oil pressure gauge has never worked. I replaced the sending unit and it still didn't work, so I'm pretty sure it is the gauge itself. I will get to this eventually but for engine start up I want to install a mechanical gauge and I was researching this. My sending unit is screwed into the oil cooler underneath the oil filter, not through one of the oil cooler bolts. Is this thread still 1/8 BSPT? I was found on another thread where someone had ordered a 1/8 NPT tee from Mcmaster Carr to attach the mechanical and stock oil sender unit to the oil cooler, but his attached at one of the bolts, not under the oil cooler. Any recommendations for parts etc. are appreciated.
2. As i'm thinking about starting this thing up I started worrying about the gas that has been sitting in the gas tank for a year and a half +. I"m not sure how much is in there but it is more than half a tank I'm pretty sure. The thought of siphoning all of it out and figuring out what to do with it has me worried. Should I not worry about it and just fire up this tractor motor on it anyway?
3. Silly question. I was thinking how easy it would be to fill the transfer case and transmission with gear oil while it is out of the truck. Do people do this or should I wait until I have it back in the truck to add the oil?
Couple questions that have come to mind while I'm putting stuff back together:
1. My oil pressure gauge has never worked. I replaced the sending unit and it still didn't work, so I'm pretty sure it is the gauge itself. I will get to this eventually but for engine start up I want to install a mechanical gauge and I was researching this. My sending unit is screwed into the oil cooler underneath the oil filter, not through one of the oil cooler bolts. Is this thread still 1/8 BSPT? I was found on another thread where someone had ordered a 1/8 NPT tee from Mcmaster Carr to attach the mechanical and stock oil sender unit to the oil cooler, but his attached at one of the bolts, not under the oil cooler. Any recommendations for parts etc. are appreciated.
2. As i'm thinking about starting this thing up I started worrying about the gas that has been sitting in the gas tank for a year and a half +. I"m not sure how much is in there but it is more than half a tank I'm pretty sure. The thought of siphoning all of it out and figuring out what to do with it has me worried. Should I not worry about it and just fire up this tractor motor on it anyway?
3. Silly question. I was thinking how easy it would be to fill the transfer case and transmission with gear oil while it is out of the truck. Do people do this or should I wait until I have it back in the truck to add the oil?
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
The tstat gasket sounds concerning, I’m not sure I’d stay w/ it if it’s that iffy.
And the oil pressure gauge, your hooking the wire tab up to the middle circular thing and not the flat male spade to the side correct? I had a mechanical gauge years ago I’d installed by a tee from where the sending unit threads in below the filter in my first truck. Folks told me it wasn’t the right way to go but it held from the time I installed it in ‘10 to ‘13. I fed the little plastic hose through an AC grommet under the glove box along the ashtray holder and hung it from below the 4WD light area. I loved that thing and it gave me so much more confidence in my oil pressure.
You could drain the gas if you really want but you could also just have a few fuel filters on hand too.
Personally I wouldn’t fill the tcase/trans prior too because it will just add weight but that’s just me.
And the oil pressure gauge, your hooking the wire tab up to the middle circular thing and not the flat male spade to the side correct? I had a mechanical gauge years ago I’d installed by a tee from where the sending unit threads in below the filter in my first truck. Folks told me it wasn’t the right way to go but it held from the time I installed it in ‘10 to ‘13. I fed the little plastic hose through an AC grommet under the glove box along the ashtray holder and hung it from below the 4WD light area. I loved that thing and it gave me so much more confidence in my oil pressure.
You could drain the gas if you really want but you could also just have a few fuel filters on hand too.
Personally I wouldn’t fill the tcase/trans prior too because it will just add weight but that’s just me.
