1985 2f engine pull and replacement thread (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Thanks @NeverGiveUpYota I’ll have to think about the thermostat. It is the one from cruiser corps that says it is supposed to work with an fj60. It even says to place the included rubber grommet on top of the thermostat. I just figured it is now a different shape. I could feel the grommet compress as I tightened the bolts, so not to worried about it. I’ll probably test my old thermostat and keep it on hand cause I’m pretty sure it worked.

A couple fuel filters sounds like a good idea and I was leaning toward waiting on the gear oil as well, more just a random thought.
 
That's how my t stat housing was. And it's easy to have that top gasket slip out of position. then you're running cold all the time.
I put mine together upside down last time. Put the top of the housing on the bench upside down, put the top gasket in. Put the t-stat in upside down centered on the gasket. Take the bottom of the housing and rtv the lower gasket on it. Then place the lower housing on the upper housing and holding it together tightly with your hands carefully turn the lower and upper housing over and install the 4 bolts. Once the bolts are snug, you can look in the hole that the coolant runs thru from the head and see if the gasket is in place. Next blow thru the upper housing with your thumb over the small hole and make sure that it's air tight. Lastly rtv the head to lower housing gasket and bolt to the head.
 
Put gear oil in the trans and t'case after you have them in the truck. I use a hand held pump with a plastic hose that you put in the gear oil gal container and the other end goes in the fill hole. Pump til it starts to overflow. Have a big oil pan to catch spills. Much easier than squeezing quart containers.
 
I bought the pump setup that sits right on top of the 5 gallon bucket of gear oil. Comes with a u shaped pipe at the end that fits in the filler hole nicely and it’s clear tubing so you can tell when the pump is working.
 
Contemplating my firewall and trying to figure out the easiest way to run the copper tubing for my mechanical oil pressure gauge. Actually, I got a 3 gauge set so I’m gonna run oil pressure, water temp and vacuum. I’ve researched the forum, but there aren’t a ton of threads on it. I’m sure I can figure it out, just want to know if there is an easier way.


CE0ED411-F7D3-4EB9-BF2E-5E1CF6C07747.jpeg
 
Check that. This grommet seems to be relatively easy to reach from both inside and outside the cabin.

1138E666-94A2-433D-A0E7-C2EC6A2F8978.jpeg
 
Check that. This grommet seems to be relatively easy to reach from both inside and outside the cabin.

View attachment 2043191
I think years ago I sent an oil mech line (it was a hard plastic) through that one or one of the AC ones. I ran it under the glove box and along the lower edge of the dash near the ashtray housing frame.
 
Seems like a good spot. Trying to put it in before I put the engine back in. Now if only I could figure out the electrical so the gauges light up.
 
Seems like a good spot. Trying to put it in before I put the engine back in. Now if only I could figure out the electrical so the gauges light up.
You’ll get it. Can’t be too hard. I hate electrical too.
 
Contemplating my firewall and trying to figure out the easiest way to run the copper tubing for my mechanical oil pressure gauge. Actually, I got a 3 gauge set so I’m gonna run oil pressure, water temp and vacuum. I’ve researched the forum, but there aren’t a ton of threads on it. I’m sure I can figure it out, just want to know if there is an easier way.

My oil pressure is with that horrible plastic line (getting changed soon) but runs at the back of the firewall to the drivers side.
Same with the temp gauge.
It was easier to have both run into the same grommet for trouble shooting and removing the gauges if ever need be
I left enough slack under the dash to move the gauges as needed without having to unhook anything.
 
Just some little random fiddling is all I had time for lately.

Fuel pump installed. (With the spacer!!!)
2E84D9AB-8E22-49F2-8FB0-A261BA7AE205.jpeg


New oil cooler hoses

20482795-8154-4576-9AD0-82433E07DFD2.jpeg


And a rebuilt smog pump!
81B24FA1-3F37-481A-9946-8051496F26E9.jpeg


DA1E935E-F014-4F7D-BC21-8219AAFA4979.jpeg

6CA43CF0-8896-4CF6-A3C7-9DE0C474CA73.jpeg


I used the builders recommended by @Spike Strip B-Z rebuilders. They were super nice and had it back to me so fast.


I received my clutch kit in the mail so next steps are to pull the engine off the stand then pilot bearing, bell housing flywheel and clutch time!
 
So I had some time today and I figured it was time to join the engine and transmission. Got the flywheel on and new clutch. My new throw out bearing was a little thinner than the old throw out bearing, but the diameter was the same. The guys at cruiser corps said that was all the mattered so I went with it. Was all going pretty smooth.. I made some dowels to help guide the transfer case on, and used my engine hoist and jack to lift the transmission into place.
IMG_1627.jpg


IMG_1633.jpg


It slide together pretty nicely, and I was feeling super proud of myself when all the the sudden it just stopped with a quarter of an inch to go or less. Couldn't budge it. Finally figured out that the opening on my bellhousing is a different shape than the bearing cover on the front of the transmission.

IMG_1634.jpg


IMG_1635.jpg


I was bummed because my bell housing is stamped 3F and I was hoping I had one that would bolt right up. Guess not. Looks like I will make a template and get out the die grinder. I was thinking I would have the thing in the truck tonight or tmrw but it isn't to be. Learning something new everyday.

Also while I'm thinking about it, I'm having trouble getting the clutch fork to stay on the pivot point with the little wires attached to it. I wasn't to worried about it because it seems like once the transmission is in it will stay in place, but then I thought that I might be missing something. Thanks!

IMG_1629.jpg
 
Mine says 3F too. If yours came apart, they should go back together. I’ve never heard/read the words ‘die grinder and transmission input shaft’ in the same sentence on any thread. Could it be a matter of somehow spinning the gears in the transmission or the crank like w/ the axle mating w/ the diff?
 
Last edited:
Recently I was told “When you get the new pilot bearing, test fit it on the nose of the transmission input shaft. It should fit nice & snug. If it's frictionless and just slides on w/ no drag you'll need to get a different bearing” in regards to a new pilot bearing. Did you test fit it?
 
That's the correct bellhousing for your vehicle. Don't grind on it. What you're likely hitting at the last 1/4" is the input shaft tip jamming slightly off centered from the pilot bearing. That almost always happens unless the insertion is absolutely perfect.

Getting stuck the last 1/4" of transmission insertion is the transmission telling you you're not inserting it straight. And even if you are, sometimes it needs a little careful coercion.

Verify that the front face of the transmission is perfectly parallel with the bellhousing on all sides. If it is, it's ok to carefully walk it in with bolts to get it inserted into the pilot bearing. CAREFULLY is the key word here. Just tighten a bolt a tiny bit then the other three a tiny bit equally and look to see if the transmission is creeping in. If it feels like it's not goIng to go, don't continue cranking in the bolts (you could break a mounting ear)

Below is a picture of my bellhousing on a'86 same as yours

image.jpeg
 
I always installed the clutch fork to the hub with the small two wire clips after the transmission was bolted to the bellhousing. Tight fit with fingers but I could always manage
 
Look one more time at mine and compare it to yours @OSS
IMG_1636.jpg


Mine is def missing the rounded cutouts on the upper half. Also compare my 4 speed bearing cover to the 5 speed
IMG_1637.jpg
IMG_1638.jpg
 

This is the thread I was using to look into the issue and thinking about grinding.
 
My ‘87 from when I was pulling it apart.
Your input shaft is just goobed w/ up grease there right?

53CD15D0-C26D-4C48-AF7B-901E192FB692.jpeg


A3196398-3F68-418C-AFD3-C932BE0FA4DE.jpeg
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom