1984 Toyota Pickup 2RZ Swap Notes (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jul 30, 2023
Threads
1
Messages
8
Location
Kansas City, MO
Introduction
Greetings 👋

I am starting this thread to share information, ask questions, and generally document my 2RZ engine swap into the 1984 Toyota Pickup that I bought last year. I had some trouble finding recent information about this swap, so hopefully this will help others who arrive here looking for information.

Most of my prior projects have been motorcycles, but I am no stranger to Toyotas. I owned a beautiful 1986 4Runner for a long time, a 2004 Tacoma for a few years, and then a 2009 Tacoma for a couple of years before moving on to a newer Tundra. Despite all of these purchases, I have always missed the '86 the most. Something about manual everything always felt better to me. I grew up riding in similar trucks with my dad, so there's a bit of nostalgia involved.

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The 1984 Pickup I bought was a basket case -- it needs everything. Here's a photo:

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Here is some high-level information around project decisions:

Engine
The truck came with a 22R from the factory. I decided not to use this for several reasons:
  • The truck sat in a barn for at least several years and the cylinder walls were heavily pitted
  • The head was rebuilt, but had been modified and appeared to be missing parts, including the carburetor
  • I have not worked on a carbureted vehicle before. Had this truck not been missing so many parts, I would have considered it


I weighed options for engines and decided to run with either a 2RZ or 3RZ. I recently helped my brother in-law buy a 2000 4Runner (3RZ-FE with a 5-speed manual, 2WD) and fell in love with how well that drivetrain feels. Having a truck that was already set up for a 4 cyl, it seemed like the logical choice and less work with engine mounting.

I found a 1996 2RZ-FE engine on Facebook Marketplace for $800, including some of the wiring harness and ECU. Youch. I learned a lesson here, having seen no less than 10 parts trucks I could
have bought between $1000 - $2000. I would do this next time. But hey, retrospective hindsight -- and all that. The upside is that we got to see the engine run and rev before it was pulled from the truck.

PXL_20230416_211800114.jpg


I replaced a few parts on the 2RZ before putting it into the 1984 Pickup:
  • Fuel filter (RockAuto)
  • OEM oil pan kit: pan, blockoff plate, dipstick, pickup tube (ChillKat)
  • Motor mounts (Chillkat)
  • Distributor cap (RockAuto)
  • Distributor rotor (RockAuto)
  • Spark plugs (RockAuto)
  • Spark plug wires (RockAuto)
  • Exhaust header (RockAuto)
    • QA was terrible, the bolt holes are almost all loose or cracked
    • I have since ordered an OEM header from a later model 2/3RZ: 17141-75080
  • Valve cover gasket + grommets (RockAuto)
  • Thermostat + gaskets (RockAuto)
  • Accessory belts (RockAuto)
  • Accessory idler pulleys (RockAuto)
  • Motor mount rubbers (RockAuto)
    • Might regret this purchase, they felt really cheap
  • 5VZ-FE airbox (eBay, ~$70)
  • Water pump (RockAuto)
    • Aisin
TBD engine parts:
  • Exhaust heat shield
    • Probably going to order an OEM part from a later engine, 17167-75100
  • Rear main seal
    • I have the seal, but have not replaced one before
    • Will give this a shot soon, with the motor in the truck
Transmission
Emphasizing the "basket case" nature of the truck here, it came with a manual W56 4WD transmission with a "forward shifter case". According to Marlin (RIP) Crawler, the '84 was supposed to come with a G52 transmission, however a friend helped me identify the current transmission as the W56. I bought a W59 bellhousing (thanks, Facebook groups) to adapt the 2RZ to my W56.

PXL_20230416_211848648.jpg


Other parts I've bought but not installed yet:
  • Clutch kit
    • Bought for a '96 Tacoma, and since that came with a R150F, I'm assuming it may not work for me
  • Slave cylinder
  • Flywheel
Fuel System
I bought a "Spectra Premium TO10B" fuel tank for a 1987 Toyota Pickup (with 22R-E engine) from RockAuto. The reasoning is that the stock tank and lines were not set up for the higher pressure requirements of EFI, however this tank should be compatible with my frame. This purchase was a setback, since the tank + pump + hanger bracketry were quite expensive, all together. I have not yet mounted the tank or set up fuel lines for the tank yet.

Electrical / Wiring

I bought a parts truck recently, a single-cab, 1996 Toyota Tacoma 2WD, also with a 2RZ-FE (distributor engine). No title, and the frame is extremely rotten -- but we were able to drive it home without issue. The plan was to harvest the wiring harness in its entirety, and swap everything over to the 1984 Pickup.

This is where I am at right now, working on transferring the wiring from the parts truck to my build. I am thankful for having a parts truck, because the idea of combining wiring between the '84 and the '96 engine was intimidating and would have taken me a lot of time. I am aware that others have found wiring diagrams and made this approach work, but I prefer the "lift and shift" strategy in this case.

Here is where I decided to feed the wiring in from the 2RZ harness. It was the only flat spot in the firewall that didn't interfere with the evaporator box (added this, my '84 did not come with factory air conditioning):





Reference

PXL_20230416_211800114.jpg
 
Welcome. I am mid 3RZ swap and have a thread going as well. I look forward to seeing yours running!

Exhaust header (RockAuto)
  • QA was terrible, the bolt holes are almost all loose or cracked
  • I have since ordered an OEM header from a later model 2/3RZ: 17141-75080
How did the 75080 header look? I just went through a pretty bad experience with a couple of those headers. Hoping yours is a good specimen.

Clutch kit
  • Bought for a '96 Tacoma, and since that came with a R150F, I'm assuming it may not work for me
I believe the 5VZ and 3RZ clutches are 9-7/8" where as the 2RZ is 9-3/8" -- Also I believe there is an input shaft differences between the R150F and W59.
I just put the CKT051 on mine - you may be able to source a 3RZ flywheel and run that clutch. A little bigger fly wheel would be nice for low end drivability.
 
Welcome. I am mid 3RZ swap and have a thread going as well. I look forward to seeing yours running!
I appreciate the kind words! I have slacked on posting here, so I will post an update after replying to you.

How did the 75080 header look? I just went through a pretty bad experience with a couple of those headers. Hoping yours is a good specimen.
I should have researched a little more before buying the 75080 header. The engine-to-header flange was severely warped, so I ended up not using the part. The eBay seller was less than cooperative with returning the part, so I am stuck with it unfortunately. I am guessing Toyota outsourced this part since production for these at the main plants probably ended decades ago. Lesson learned on this endeavor. Here are some photos of how I received the part:

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PXL_20230802_064259132.jpg

PXL_20230802_064311146.jpg
 
I believe the 5VZ and 3RZ clutches are 9-7/8" where as the 2RZ is 9-3/8" -- Also I believe there is an input shaft differences between the R150F and W59.
I just put the CKT051 on mine - you may be able to source a 3RZ flywheel and run that clutch. A little bigger fly wheel would be nice for low end drivability.
This is good info! Here is a source of truth for what I ended up using:
  • Engine: 1996 2RZ-FE 2.4l 4-cylinder (distributor engine)
    • Sourced from a 1996 Tacoma parts truck
  • Transmission: 1980's W56 5-speed manual
    • Came with truck; presumably swapped in
  • Flywheel: Sachs NFW6938 (2RZ, 1996)
    • Note: 3RZ part # is Sachs NFW9131
  • Clutch: Exedy 16090 (2RZ, 2004)
    • RockAuto lists this as "4WD; 9-7/8" Disc; 21 Spline", 1995 - 2004
    • 1996 2RZ would be part number "Exedy KTY13", "9-1/4" Disc; 21 Spline"
  • Bellhousing: W59 manual transmission
  • Slave Cylinder: AISIN CRT-029 ('96 Tacoma, 2RZ)
I probably should have went with Aisin (CKT051) for the '96 engine instead of the '04 Exedy clutch; upon reviewing my info here, the clutch I bought ('04) might be larger than the flywheel friction surface. It may not mean much, however I did hold the clutch-to-flywheel before installing; visually, they appeared to be compatible. I am curious, what is the impact here - simply underutilized clutch surface area, or is this actually a problem, and prone to failure?

Since posting last, I got the truck running and driving 🎉 However, I think there may be a problem with the clutch installation / configuration. I have only driven the truck around the block a few times for testing reasons, but when I'm accelerating in 1st/2nd I hear an intermittent noise that sounds like metal-on-metal. The sound is like one of those old school bicycle bells. I am suspecting the clutch springs perhaps lightly rubbing against the pressure plate, but I am not sure right now since I have only put about a mile on the truck so far. I am definitely open to suggestions on what to do for this.
 
There is so much progress to update on here! I will document what I remember to the best of my ability 🧠

Fuel
  • New fuel pump primary line (aluminum)
  • Re-used the other two lines from the '84
  • Adapted a '96 2RZ fuel pump to the '84 tank hanger
378109708_309613051661565_8751536681424551943_n.jpg


Wiring
This has been the most time-consuming part of this build. I went with:
  • 1996 Tacoma wiring harness (engine, body, interior; everything)
  • 1984 Pickup dash, instrument cluster, switches, buttons, etc.
Fortunately, between these two trucks most of the wire colors in the cabin are the same or similar. I bought two books with wiring diagrams to help out:
  • 1996 Tacoma Wiring Diagrams (eBay)
  • 1984 Pickup FSM
    • Yes, scans are available but I did not find a copy with complete, readable diagrams for everything that I needed. The book I bought is an original 80's paper copy that was very expensive. I plan to scan the complete diagrams or digitize them and publish for others, once my truck work is complete.
  • Toyota TIS subscription (one day); downloaded all 1996 PDFs
    • https://techinfo.toyota.com
    • Despite downloading all PDFs for the 1996 Tacoma, I learned I was missing a few diagrams. The eBay book helped a lot where these fell short.
The only wiring I haven't finished (other than front turn signals / marker lights) is the intermittent function of the windshield wipers; the '84 uses a brain box ("Wiper Control Module") that has separate wiring, and my donor '96 harness did not have intermittent wires (base modle truck, booo).

Instrument Cluster
A few of my pins were broken (cracked) and making intermittent contact. Luckily a local friend had spares, and I was able to swap them out.

I had to add a pin to utilize the check engine light.

Suspension
I bought an OME kit from Rocky Road Outfitters, it took several months to arrive (thanks, supply shortages). Customer support was friendly towards me asking for regular product upates. The kit took about a weekend to install; front + rear leaf springs, front + rear shocks, steering dampener.

Ignition
My engine had a bad ignitor assembly; my spare part was unfortunately bad as well. The truck idled fine, but stumbled hard with throttle change. I bought a less-crusty, used eBay part and that corrected my problem. Part number: Denso 89621-26010 / 131300-1744.

Intake
I went with a 5VZ-FE (2004 Tacoma, 6-cyl) aftermarket, new airbox and modified it to fit where the factory-80's battery would be. For ducting, I bought generic silicone connectors, ban clamps, and some generic aluminum tubing from Amazon. Part number: Dorman 258-504 (~$65)

Radiator
I have an OEM brass radiator for the 22R, unfortunately it is filled with sludge (even after mild flushing) and pretty oxidized / damaged internally. I bought an eBay generic aluminum unit (three row), after modifying the bracket holes it fit perfectly.

Exhaust
  • LC Engineering 2RZ-to-80's-Pickup header / downpipe
    • Way overpriced IMHO, but I needed one in a pinch after the Rockauto part had stripped holes / cracking, and the eBay part was warped
  • New manifold studs, LCE
    • Note: The lock nuts are a nice touch but the studs aren't of great quality
  • Chillkat cross-over pipe
    • Lesson learned: Way overpriced IMHO; in the future I will find an exhaust shop to make this. It has to be cut off again anyway since my welder friend put this in the way of the front driveshaft. Whoops!
  • LC Engineering "pro flow" 2RZ exhaust system
    • Lesson learned: I waayyy ovepraid for this. Not only is the ceramic coating unnecessary, but we had to hack / weld the exhaust system quite a bit for it to work for the Pickup.
    • Lesson learned: LCE advertises (with matching product documentation included) this system with hangers included, unfortunately they shipped the parts without hangers. Weird right? I bought generic hangers from Amazon and some exhaust hanger donuts from an Autozone.

Overall
Here are a few current photos:

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I should have researched a little more before buying the 75080 header. The engine-to-header flange was severely warped, so I ended up not using the part. The eBay seller was less than cooperative with returning the part, so I am stuck with it unfortunately. I am guessing Toyota outsourced this part since production for these at the main plants probably ended decades ago. Lesson learned on this endeavor. Here are some photos of how I received the part:
I've seen the concerns here on the 75080 header. That makes me feel lucky since I didn't have those issues. I had mine ceramic coated, along with the heat shield.

Manifold and shield-sm.jpg


20201112_134318-sm.jpg
 
I know there’s a big rash of fake parts going around. I wonder if it was a genuine Toyota or a fake one that looked close enough.
 
I know there’s a big rash of fake parts going around. I wonder if it was a genuine Toyota or a fake one that looked close enough.
Any way to tell? Here is the link where I bought mine 👀


I'm sure the part could be used with some milling and maybe a bit of cutting / welding, I'm not equipped for that at the moment. Happy to offload it to someone else if they can use it.
 
Any way to tell? Here is the link where I bought mine 👀


I'm sure the part could be used with some milling and maybe a bit of cutting / welding, I'm not equipped for that at the moment. Happy to offload it to someone else if they can use it.
It would be hard to tell without a side by side comparison of the one you ordered and its box next to one bought from a dealership. There’s been a bad rash of them lately. We’ve been seeing a lot of it with filters in the powerstroke community. They love to use the old style of boxes.
 
Glad to see you're running!

Mine was from the Toyota Dealership and looked absolutely horrible. It's in this post and the following 10 posts maybe are discussion. There is a pic of the box in there somwhere.
 

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