Builds 1984 Pickup Rebuild

[Mudder]

Two big issues have reared their ugly heads. First is the brakes. Dear god the pedal sucks and has no resistance. I’m wondering if I have something sized wrong. I have an 89 IFs rear axle. V6 front calipers, dual diaphragm booster and an FJ80 MC and the pedal has no resistance and doesn’t build any pressure when I push the pedal repeatedly. I’ve bled the system multiple times with no success in changing it which I’m not surprised about.

The other is a lovely p1700 code. It’s for the secondary speed sensor for the automatics. I’m wonder if I can tie this into the stock VSS and get it to go away as I don’t think it can be beat with a resistor due to it look for a pulse signal. Has anyone dealt with this? My internet search is coming up short on it with most changing to a manual ECU to get it to go away.

 

[gnob]

not a huge help here but it might work. that second sensor is using logic against the front (input) sensor #1 to make sure the tranny is shifting and locking up as the ecu demands.

might be worth digging through yota tech threads to verify.

 

[Mudder]

not a huge help here but it might work. that second sensor is using logic against the front (input) sensor #1 to make sure the tranny is shifting and locking up as the ecu demands.

might be worth digging through yota tech threads to verify.

I’ll see what I can find in the threads over there. I’m also looking at just doing a manual ecu and being done with the auto one. The biggest hang up I’m having is what exit I can use as they’re anywhere from 200-600 on eBay.

 

[aztoyman]

I saw an online business that refurbishes and I think programs ECU's when I was looking for an affordable spare for my manual trans 3.4. I'll see if I can find a link.

 

[aztoyman]

@Mudder, I don't remember the place I saw for the ECM reprogramming and refurbishing. I just googled Toyota 3.4 ECM and a bunch of places pop up. Looks like prices similar to your eBay prices. I believe that is an outright purchase though. Might be some of the same companies. Maybe worth a call or email to some of the US sourced places for pricing or info for repair or reprogram (if possible) for the one you have.

 

[pappy]

Traditionally, Toyota speed sensors are a 4-pulse/revolution reed switch. Try using the speed sensor signal off the instrument cluster.

 

[Mudder]

Traditionally, Toyota speed sensors are a 4-pulse/revolution reed switch. Try using the speed sensor signal off the instrument cluster.

I’ll give it a try. Hopefully the signal from the VSS is enough to fix the issue. @aztoyman I’ll definitely look around. I don’t feel like spending $600 for an untested ECU.

I did get it take it for a drive in the mountains today. The truck did amazing but I do need to move the axle forward. It kept hitting the firewall punch welds whenever it had to flex. The plan is some relocation plates from Sky’s to move it .75-1” forward.

 

[Mudder]

Does anyone know if the speedometer from the 22re cluster creates an AC or DC voltage? The cluster is from an 89 if that matters. The reason I’m asking is, the number 2 speed sensor on the 3rz automatics produces an AC voltage so I’m wanting to make sure that using the 22re VSS is even an option to defeat this code and I haven’t found anything in the FSM yet.

 

[pappy]

Does anyone know if the speedometer from the 22re cluster creates an AC or DC voltage? The cluster is from an 89 if that matters. The reason I’m asking is, the number 2 speed sensor on the 3rz automatics produces an AC voltage so I’m wanting to make sure that using the 22re VSS is even an option to defeat this code and I haven’t found anything in the FSM yet.

I believe it's DC. I would still try it. Toyota has been using the 4-pulse VSS on just about everything since at least the 60's. I seem to recall even my 1969 FJ40 had a speed sensor built into the speedometer. I know the FJ62's did, and my 1985 does.

 

[gnob]

two wire mag sensors are always ac. 3 wire hall like the later tcase vss are dc.

 

[Mudder]

Made progress on little issues this weekend

I attached the Y-R wire for the second speed sensor to the factory VSS and I believe it has fixed the P1700 code. I’ve put about 100 mile on it and it hasn’t shown up. I also fixed the P0401 code I had. There was a check valve in the EGR system for an automatic transmission that I removed and that code is gone, although the EVAP system still hasn’t completed its test.

I also go the tach working, did the 10k resistor mod and ran a wire from II3 to the cluster and it worked like a charm. The factory automatic wiring didn’t have a wire for the tach so I just added one to the P terminal on the cluster.

The speedometer is about 5 mph off above 55 but it cruises well at 70 with 4.56 gears and 35’s

I did move the axle forward about an inch and a half by drilling out the spring perches. It sits a lot better now but I’m at the point of that the front driveline yoke is barely covering the splines . I don’t want to get it lengthen yet as I have plans on dual cases and don’t want to do it twice so I’ll keep an eye on it.

 

[aztoyman]

Good work getting those bugs worked out.
That drive shaft is really on the edge of coming apart. Be careful.

 

[Mudder]

Good work getting those bugs worked out.
That drive shaft is really on the edge of coming apart. Be careful.

I’m debating on order a spacer from trail gear to help with it in the meantime. They’re around $43 right now for a 1.5” spacer.

Longfield Toyota Driveline Spacer

LONGFIELD TOYOTA DRIVELILNE SPACER

trail-gear.com

 

[aztoyman]

My son's was on the edge like that and he didn't have the money for a longer drive shaft at the time. It didn't come apart in the garage testing it but it did on the trail.

 

[The Toad]

View attachment 3776246

309 miles driven and only burned 1/8th of a tank @Mudder you need to tell the community where tf you get your fuel from. Must be the stuff of miracles

 

[Mudder]

309 miles driven and only burned 1/8th of a tank @Mudder you need to tell the community where tf you get your fuel from. Must be the stuff of miracles

I wish it was doing that good. It appears to be getting around 16 mpg. I haven’t reset the trip so I can track the first 500 mile break in period.

I did get the window resealed as the old sealant had given up, ordered shocks and more sound deadened for the cab and a new steering stabilizer. I’m waiting for Toyota Black Friday sales to start and I have a list of seals and gaskets to get as well as a new speedometer cable and accelerator cable as the current one from an 85 is too short.

 

[Mudder]

More work done. I ended up adding some Dynapad to the truck and that made a world of a difference. I can now hear the wind noise due to the damaged passenger A pillar.

Also installed some Bilstein 5100s front and rear using the part numbers provided by @Txfireman and a new steering stabilizer. The Rancho one got damaged due to how I had it positioned in the truck when I flexed it off road for the first time.

Front: 24-185684
Rear: 24-185752

I did manage to find the shocks on RockAuto for less than anyone else offered, the rear shocks were $95 a shock and the fronts were $89 a shock. The truck definitely rides better than it ever did with the OME shocks.

 

[gnob]

i was definitely much happier on the bils.

glad you're getting this thing sorted.

 

[Mudder]

i was definitely much happier on the bils.

glad you're getting this thing sorted.

It’s night and day difference. It also didn’t help that one of the OME shocks was dead.

I’m glad it’s starting to get where I’m happy with it, it’s been a fun project that taught me a lot and I’ve learned what I’d do differently next time to save money. I did not keep it anywhere in the same ball park I had planned budget wise, but s*** happens. I’m grateful for the help ‘Mud has given me with this project and imo the help was better than reading the Marlin Crawler swap thread.

 

[Mudder]

Ordered an “All-Pro” (Trail Gear really) bumper on Black Friday with the plates so it didn’t look like a full tube bumper. Most of the mounting holes needed some opening with a die grinder to line up with the ones I made. I’m assuming it’s an issue on my end. I also wasn’t happy at how open the holes were so I welded them up the best I could around the new spots for the bolts. It’s a little bit ghetto but it works and I’m happy with it.

Plan is to install it with 10.9 grade bolts as well as install the 9.5TI and some new synthetic rope after I get it back from powder coating. I went with 100’ of 3/8 rope instead of 125’ of 5/16.

Also installed a 1” driveline spacer from Trail Gear. It fits well and was machined nicely. I’m hoping the driveline doesn’t fall out now .